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Pulling while walking on leash.


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This is a very common problem but fixable. This has been a topic of discussion here in the past. Try searching for the topic, there were lots of posts, if you don't find the discussion email me privately and I will try to describe what I do that works for us. denice.r@lycos.com

Denice

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Hi CaSea, here's what i do: With young pups, under 3 months, I start them on a bungi leash and if they pull when they hit the end of it, I gently pull back, then release. Just a quick pull and release. If you do this consistently, and I do mean every single time, they stop pulling pretty quick. How quickly depends on their intelligence. If you pull with no release, they don't get the connection and, in effect, pulling on them teaches them to get used to it, and in essence teaches them to pull. It doesn't have to be harsh or scary and certainly not painful, only consistent. They learn that release or reward if you will, comes when they don't pull, and they learn not to. I do the exact same thing with older dogs that I didn't start. They pull, I pull back then release with intention that matches that of the dog. I don't add a voice correction or command to it and as far as I know, they think the leash is doing it. I've never used anything except a leather collar, bungi and regular leash, and none of my dogs ever pull on me, no matter how exciting the surroundings, how many dogs are close by and whether or not there are sheep present. Hope this helps. Cheers

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Hi Georgia, brand doesn't matter. It's the idea of giving young, exuberant pups a little more margin for error than a 6' or so leash will allow. It doesn't even have to be retractable, I just like them, because you can hit the brake when you need them to stay close, out of harm's way, out from under people's feet, etc. Then you can give them room to romp when it's warranted.

Cheers,

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ezy Dog makes a great bungy leash thats durable.

What I found to work really well with my BC is just using my body. Start out with your dog where you want her and whenever she goes too far ahead of you do a 180 (turning away from the dog) and keep on walking - your dog will correct itself. I used treats to help my dog figure out what I wanted and I gave her treats when she was where I wanted her to be. Walking at a brisk pace will also make this much easier because the dog thinks your actually going somewhere (which is interesting!).

When your dog gets pretty good at staying at your side start turning into her when she gets just a few inches in front of where you want her to be. Yes, you'll probably get a little dizzy.

You wont have to use treats for long because this is pretty clear body language.

Its a simple method: all you have to remember is to turn when you dog stops paying attention to you.

 

Happy training!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Honestly, I used the turning method and several different no-pull harnesses on Mick. Nothing worked.

 

I finally got a pronged collar, which I didn't want to do, because I saw it turn a German Shepherd I owned into a quivering mess when a trainer put one on her.

 

It was day and night with Mick, though. He instantly stopped pulling. He never had any fear about it, and it doesn't seem to hurt him at all. He actually *LOVES* seeing the pronged collar come out. It means he's going somewhere. The second I pick it up, he runs to the door at top speed and sits down.

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Robin was a world class puller. I had an easy walker for him, which he soon learned to pull off somehow...I could never get the darned thing to fit right! I followed Desert Ranger's suggestion of teaching the dog to heel off lead before working with him on a leash. I taught him "get in line" if he wanted the ball to be kicked, which means, get beside me at the heel position -- he'd heard "heel" so often it had no meaning for him. When he responded correctly, I clicked the clicker and kicked the ball. I transferred it to the leash by stopping when he started pulling and saying "get in line", click and treat when he did it right.

 

For Brodie, who wasn't so dedicated to pulling, I baited with treats, holding something especially yummy in my left hand, which he could just touch with his nose, and every few steps gave him a piece and said heel.

 

 

I was also told that I wasn't walking fast enough to keep their attention (true) and advised to do different things than just walk in a straight line. I purchased traffic cones ( about $10 at Lowe's -- in the plumbing dept of all places!) and we started running through some of the basic obedience rally patterns so they never knew exactly where they were going. That helped a great deal as well.

 

I also used the walking stick trick a few times to show them the general area I wanted them to be in, but not until they had the idea from the other trainings.

 

They're 11 months old now and still charge ahead now and again, but they do respond to the signals and once they figure out that theyr'e supposed to behave, settle down to a proper heel, though we've got along ways to go before we get to Ladybug's standards. Walking her is like holding onto a feather. Hardly know she's there.

 

Like all learning, its cumulative and for us, a variety of methods in combination worked best.

 

Liz

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Using the prong collar isnt teaching him anything though. Its not showing him what your want from him . He is just feeling the prongs and reacting from it. The prong collar can be brutal if used improperly. And its never to be used on a puppy or any other dog IMO.

You dont need this collar, at all. I would start with a clean slate and try using the methods described by the other members. Train with good intentions , if your tired from work or had a bad day, skip training. Your dog will sense your frustration and not want to work either.

Just my two cents

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Using the prong collar isnt teaching him anything though. Its not showing him what your want from him . He is just feeling the prongs and reacting from it. The prong collar can be brutal if used improperly. And its never to be used on a puppy or any other dog IMO.

You dont need this collar, at all. I would start with a clean slate and try using the methods described by the other members. Train with good intentions , if your tired from work or had a bad day, skip training. Your dog will sense your frustration and not want to work either.

Just my two cents

 

Prong collars make me cry too (:.

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Using the prong collar isnt teaching him anything though. Its not showing him what your want from him . He is just feeling the prongs and reacting from it. The prong collar can be brutal if used improperly. And its never to be used on a puppy or any other dog IMO.

You dont need this collar, at all. I would start with a clean slate and try using the methods described by the other members. Train with good intentions , if your tired from work or had a bad day, skip training. Your dog will sense your frustration and not want to work either.

Just my two cents

 

I have tried those other methods. Consistently. He didn't respond to them. I finally broke down this summer, and tried the prong collar. It works, and it doesn't bother him. He's a very hard headed dog, as his herding instructor and another board member who has met him can attest to. According to his herding instructor, Mick comes from a line of "hard" dogs. I'm not saying it's for every dog, or even most dogs, but when he's just a hard dog (who also happens to not be food motivated).

 

The collar is properly sized for him, and he does great with it. I don't plan on using it forever, but it's the only thing that gets him to walk civilized on a leash. He was already good with other obedience stuff, except his recall sucks outdoors, if he isn't on a line.

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:rolleyes:

Using the prong collar isnt teaching him anything though. Its not showing him what your want from him . He is just feeling the prongs and reacting from it. The prong collar can be brutal if used improperly. And its never to be used on a puppy or any other dog IMO.

You dont need this collar, at all. I would start with a clean slate and try using the methods described by the other members. Train with good intentions , if your tired from work or had a bad day, skip training. Your dog will sense your frustration and not want to work either.

Just my two cents

 

The **only** thing capable of being brutal is a human. A collar is just a collar. That said....

 

I've worked with just about every kind of collar and harness out there. The head halters are too hard on the neck by nature - a few careless inches of extra leash and a lunge and you have a dog with a serious injury. The hh are also very had to wean because they feel far different than a collar. Also, even the pp trainers have found that some dogs, regardless of how carefully and positively you do it, will never adjust to comfortabely wearing one.

 

The harness options - I want head control on a dog, at least the neck anyway. I see way too many aggressive and reactive dogs in harnesses and they owners are not in control of the dogs reactions at the level needed. The harnesses also lack feel for the dogs actions. They have a place for some dogs.

 

The only value I've found in martingale collars are that they don't come off narrow headed dogs.

 

My tools of choose are the buckle collar and the prong. If you don't let bad habits start, the buckle is usually enough for most dogs. To correct bad habits, to deal with a dog much stronger than owner, thick muscular neck dogs, a prong is a very quick and understandable method to the dog. You need to fit it correctly (the prong point length should be comparable to the dogs canine tooth length, the collar high on the neck, fitted so at rest the collar chain is fully extended and all of the collar is flat on the neck) for best use, but I've seen it used many ways and still work well.

 

I suggest a second collar at first in case the dog has an unusual reaction or the collar fails (those metal connections are not always secure). Most dogs walk right off in it, not pulling and for many...being exercised properly for the first time in their lives soley because they are now a pleasure to walk!

 

Prong collars, since they have limited choke like martigales and encourage a more sensitive response to leash pressure are much safer than regular collars or choke chains for dogs with any history of neck injury.

 

I've found many dogs feel safer in the prong because they get more detailed and specific informations. "power steering" we call it.

 

The prong rarely requires weaning - when the behavior pattern set you just switch to whatever collar you want.

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Prong collars are an excellent tool to use if used correctly. Like Lenajo sudjested, ANY method used incorrectly can be cruel. I find the prong to be the SAFEST collar to use.

 

There was actually a study done on the use of different collars, and the prong was shown(used correctly) to be the safest and have the least amount of neck or tracheal trauma. People are put off by it's look, but put it around your sleeved arm and give a tug and it is NOT by any means a tool of mid-evil torcher!!! I find for most novices, using the prong is the simplest way for everyone to have a happy walk. Happy owners = Happy dogs = more walks = less behavior problems = less dogs in shelters. So if it works for you, great!

 

I cringe much more heavily at the sight of a dog lunging and pulling, cranking it's head on a gentle leader! Being lead around like a horse!

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I've tried most everything to get my 2 pups (8 mos. now) to stop pulling when out for walks. Maybe i should just hook up a wagon :0 Seriously, How do I get them to stop pulling? I've tried gentle leader. Ideas?

 

I used an Easy Walk Harness with Dean before I got around to working on loose leash walking with him. I had other things that I wanted to do with him before working on loose leash walking. I considered the gentle leader, but didn't want to have to take the time to teach him to tolerate it before we got to actually using it. Also, I did worry about his head swiveling back if he got caught off guard by the leash.

 

He loved the harness from the moment I put it on him and he was walking on a loose leash in minutes. It served us extremely well through his adolescence and he really just got to the point where he didn't pull anymore. And it's completely safe. I did teach him to heel, but I don't always have him heel on a walk.

 

My tool of choice now with a puller is definitely the front clip harness. My experience with it was excellent, and I have recommended it to a good many students who have also had great success with it.

 

I wish you the best!

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I can actually help out a LOT here! Huskies are born to pull. So to break this when i needed them to walk like civilized animals was important!

 

Here are a few things that we did:

I bought prongs at first, but the dogs would only not pull when the prong was on. If they weren't wearing it, i didn't matter. And i didn't want to use it as a crutch forever. So i gave it the boot. Prongs should only be used intermittently for training (in my opinion) they shouldn't be used as permanent walking fixtures.

 

I began to teach the dogs to get into the heel position (seated at my left side looking at me) and added a word cue (used the German equivalent: Fuss) you can use whatever you'd like, that doesn't really matter. Once they were in position i would begin to walk, if they would break or begin to pull i would verbally correct, if they didn't respond i would stop and give them the command (Fuss). If they didn't listen i would take a step back and repeat. I kept walking backwards until they got it. Praise. Walk again. The first walks took some time. But they begin to become very irritated that the only direction they're going is backwards!

 

I now just use choke collars to walk them but it's rare that i ever need them. You have to be consistent. That's really the key to anything!

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I teach "heel" and walking on a loose leash seperately. Heel is a competitive obedience exercise for me, while walking on a loose leash is a manners/respect issue.

 

I don't make walking on a loose leash very complicated at all. From the time they are pups I just don't ever let the leash get tight. It take some balance between patience and disipline but I have never had a problem with any of my dogs pulling.

 

when my pups hit the end of the leash I stop, give a little tug and praise when they acknowledge me and come back to me. If they go right back out the uend of the leash I stop again, little tug when they hit the end and praise for staying near me. I also apply this to older dogs I am walking or helping with. If the dog is a real puller or just being overly obnoxious a prong can be put on and the same basic technique used. Mild correction followed by praise.

 

You can up the ante with an exuberant dog as well, by applying a tug at the end of the leash followed by praise and a particularly yummy treat.

 

Pretty simple.

 

I just don't mind sudjesting a prong for someone like the OP having some issues at this point with getting the pulling under control. for the dogs safety and the owners sanity!

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This is a very common problem, but very easy to fix. :)

 

Here are some fun, positive ways to teach a young puppy to keep a loose leash...

 

Method 1:

Have your pup sitting or standing at your side. Then, let him know to begin walking by saying "Let's go!" and begin walking. Praise your puppy for staying at your side. If she does bolt ahead, freeze. Act like a stick in the mud. Once she's in a calm state again, call her back to your side and start walking again. Keep repeating this until she finally understands that by staying at your side, she will be able to move foward.

 

Method 2:

Start off with your puppy at your side at a "start line". Have something your puppy really wants (your goal) about 20ft. away. This "goal" can be a treat, toy, person, or another dog. Let your dog know to begin walking by saying "Let's go!" and begin walking. If your puppy pulls, don't yank the leash or scream and yell. Just gently bring your dog back to the start line. Once she's calm, begin walking once again. Keep repeating this until you can finally make it all the way to the goal without your pup pulling. When she reaches the goal, praise her, treat her, and give her the "goal".

 

Method 3:

Start with your puppy at your side. Take three steps and treat your dog for not pulling. Do this repeatedly and gradually increase the distance you walk until your puppy is walking with a loose leash.

 

You can also play the "Catch Me" game. Although I wouldn't consider it a method for training loose leash walking, it will teach your puppy that being near you is a good thing.

In a secure area, let your puppy loose and walk briskly, jog, or run. Don't acknowledge your puppy or call her to you, just act like you're having loads of fun running around. When she runs to your left side praise her and give her lots of treats. Let her know that staying at your left side is THE BEST place to be. Keep running, walking, or jogging, and continue to praise and treat your puppy for coming to your left side. If she slows down and doesn't come to your left side, speed yourself up a bit.

 

I hope that helped! (;

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Hoot hauls on the leash like there's no tomorrow, and nothing was helping. I tried Amelia's method of a totally unemotional tug & release whenever Hoot took put much tension on the leash (I'm not looking for a heel position, just not pulling my arm off). I used no words, no treats. The first walk, every third step was a tug. I didn't change pace, didn't alter course, just enough of tug to momentarily slow down the pup. I have years (holy crow, it's decades now) of horse experience, and the idea of take-and-release is not new to me. I didn't think it was working at all with Hoot, either, until we went for our next walk. He was MUCH better! He's also stopped lunging to the end of the leash when something excites him. It'll take some time, but I like the idea that he pretty much thinks the leash is correcting him, and that he's figuring it out for himself. He's got a future as a stock dog, so thinking is a good thing, as is not always returning to me when ever something is "wrong."

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Theres a really good technique called "silky leash" out there, something created by Shirley Chong that teaches the dog to respond to very light pressure on a lead.

 

I had the same issue with one of my dogs, and while I not averse to using a piece of equipment (head halter, prong collar set on the dead ring) as a stopgap I wanted to actually be able to teach my dog what I wanted in a non-forceful way. I had zero luck using the "be a tree" methods and while my dogs all heel I also wanted to just go for a walk with 3 dogs...this worked wonders for us.

 

Here's a link to some videos that show the technique.

 

Silky Lead

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