Jump to content
BC Boards

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Today
  2. I would say to continue going to the vet office when you don't have an appointment. You might have to start outside, have him watch other dogs going in and out, all the while getting the Very Best Treats Ever! Maybe even half a block away - whatever his trigger demands. (I know, it may not be the best if he does indeed have a food allergy, but if you gotta get him into the vet.....) After a number of trips like this, maybe just open the door and treat. Etc. etc. I have one who doesn't like the vet office (my first!), and she occasionally has to be muzzled. She's much better than she used to be, but still. Good luck. diane
  3. Yesterday
  4. I think this is the best advice of the whole thread. I'm not a stock person, but the first sentence seems logical. Too often I see people say that a re-homed dog usually adjusts within 6 months, but we all know that every dog is different. With my Kylie, it was (seriously) more like two years before I saw the dog she really could be. I'm guessing the problem is that you had your heart set on herding. I'm thinking that unless you purchase a dog that is already proficient in herding, you are never guaranteed that will happen either with an untrained, young dog or even a puppy from excellent herding lines. So I think it might be wise not to take him back to sheep for a while and just let him mature with you; then try him out later. You have a lot of experience with dogs and training....I have no doubt that you will be fine.
  5. Tucker is beautiful! Wouldn't have guessed a skin/coat problem from the picture. How is Tucker's temperament with other people outside of the vet's office? Is Tucker a Covid pup that suffers from lack of socialization? Or is he great with everyone, and just nervous at the vet's office? Has he been to an obedience class and been trained - or is currently being trained? I agree that you will have to do some exploring as to which food might be best for him, and it is very frustrating to keep trying dog foods, I know. But hang in there. I also have heard good results from Apoquel. Depending on any prior or current training, if he is not enrolled anywhere, I would look into obedience or agility training for him, or even nosework. Working with him will give him confidence and may help you with handling him at the vet. He also may need a lot of socialization. I also agree with desensitizing him at the vet's office. You said that he was going to the vet for the past 3 years. Was he always good for the vet, except the last 2 times? Was there anything different about those visits? I adopted a dog that would not let the vet touch her for the first year or two. She was not a biter, but we didn't push it. Obedience and agility classes gave us both the confidence to tackle those problems. My vet was amazed when she could actually examine her, and I credit that to her non-stop classes. Best of luck! Don't lose hope!
  6. Ah, the reason I asked about color was I was wondering about CDA. Cute picture!
  7. I will look into the Purina foods. Thanks I have thought about Dinovite. I will get some a try it out. Tucker is a Blk/Wht long hair BC. I had though about taking Tucker to the vets office just to get him desensitized to all the commotion going on in there. He is at the top of his anxiety level when we walk in. It hadn't been an option until this last time. They're letting people and dogs back into the waiting area agin now. Because of covid they would make everyone wait in the cars.
  8. Ah, as much as most want to get top of the line (whatever that is in their opinion)..I would recommend Purina. Pro Plan, Purina One, just a Purina brand though. They do the research, the testing and much more on their foods. Or, go raw. Most don't like raw, once you get used to it you won't go back to dry nasty crap He's a bit old for Demodex, I was thinking he was under a year. Could be but not likely. Another additive you could try is the Dinovite, I use it periodically when I think coats or condition is lacking. What color is Tucker? As to the behavioral issues at the vet...can you just go up there and work on desensitizing him? Make it a party to go there, daily if need be, and see if you can figure out what upset him and recondition it..
  9. I have had 2 really great BC that were adopted when I live in Montana. They gave me close to 15 years of happiness and nearly know problems at all. Tucker was the first puppy I purchase from a kennel when I got back to Michigan. Though I dearly love him, it certainly was not a very good choice at the time. Any Suggestion on a better food for Tucker? Seems like everything is grain free now. Apparently price is not an indication of the best dog foods as Orjins Tundra was not cheep! He did not mention Demodex that I can recall, but he may have. He did bring out a book and show me a picture of a dog with a similar problem, it may have been a picture of a dog that had Demodex. The vet was unable to touch Tucker to really exam him good. Hopefully the drug will calm him down next appointment so the he can. I really don't understand that as Tucker has been going to this vet for 3 years. It's only been the last 2 times thats it's been a problem. Thank you Journey!
  10. Sorry I do not really know the breeding practices of the kennel though I suspect there not good ones. I know of no one else that may have a dog from that litter. As far as Tuckers skin problems I had thought maybe brushing Tucker 2 or 3 times a week would help. It has not. Overtime I brush him there is more dead skin then there is hair. The brush is loaded with it. The vet did say Tucker has a very nice shinny coat. I am hoping Apoquel is the answer but it's pretty expensive. Hopefully the next vet visit the vet will be able to examine Tucker a little more closely.
  11. Shadow, our older BC LOVES the water. When she goes to the beach she will run non-stop fetching whatever we toss in the water for her, to the point of shivering (Lake Michigan water can be pretty cold all year long). We have to make her lie down on the sand to warm up. Dustie on the other hand doesn't like getting wet and will pace along the shoreline until Shadow gets within reach, then she'll try to steal whatever Shadow is bringing back.
  12. Yeah, that kennel is bad news on every aspect, not just the color aspect, the horrendous environment, mass production, no one sees or picks up from house, etc... The skin issues most likely are due to his breeding. As to grain free, that's been a problem food for a few years now, glad your vet wants him off it! Short of running allergy test, you will need to try everything possible until you hit upon something that works. Don't think 2 weeks weeks will be enough, 30 days min would be my guess. Did they happen to check for Demodex? Just curious based on where you say the hair loss is. Good luck with helping him get better!
  13. I am sorry to hear of Tucker's problems, but give you props for giving him quality medical care. Sometimes it can be necessary to use a drug to calm the pet enough to be examined by the vet. I do not know how Ace is viewed as an anti-anxiety med, and others will know more. Regarding getting a dog from such a kennel as you describe: although frowned upon here on these Boards, breeding for color doesn't necessarily produce a dog with health problems if appropriate genetic tests are done on the parents to insure that (known) genetic-based diseases are not passed on. (Note: I !00% agree with not breeding for color as the main reason for a mating.) However, it is commonly known that inbreeding is highly correlated with a multitude of problems, with skin issues being one of them. Do you know the breeding practices of the kennel you purchased from? Do you have contact with any other owner of a pup from the same litter as Tucker? You could reach out to them and ask about their pup. I have heard good feedback about using Apoquel for skin problems. Note: I checked out the website for Jawanna, and there are a lot of red flags.
  14. Last week
  15. Hi everyone. It's been awhile since I last posted but I am back again with a couple of problems. I took Tucker to the vet today as he has been losing hair around his eyes and has bad flaky skin. I had noticed these thing coming on for maybe 6 months. About 2 weeks ago I decided to change Tuckers diet from Taste of the Wild High Prairie to Orjins Tundra hoping to see if maybe it was his food that was causing the hair lost and flaky skin. I also started giving him 2000mg of salmon oil once a day. He has also been inserting his feet into his mouth and licking them. His feet will be almost ringing wet when he is done. He has had a recurring ear infection now for the last year. Maybe 3 times. The last time I was at the vet Tucker tried to bite the vet and we had to muzzle him. This time I took him in muzzled as I new what had happen last time. It's just been the last 2 times that Tucker has had a problem with the vets. This time was even worse! The vet could not get near him to check him out. So we could only talk and look at Tucker from a short distance. I told the vet I had switched his food and started him of salmon oil. Apparently he was not a fan of a grain free diet and asked me to take him off it. He suggested a diet that included grains and meats like fish, venison and duck and to continue with the salmon oil. He also gave me a couple of prescriptions. One is Cefpodomime 200mg once a day and the other is Apoquel 5.4mg that i give 2 tablet 2 times a day. He made an appointment for 2 weeks and give me another prescription Acepromazine 25mg to give to Tucker on the day of his appointment I guess to calm him down a little before I brought him in. I have had on going problems with Tucker since I brought him home. I guess what I am interested in hearing about is how much of these problems is/was/has been caused from the kennel I purchased him from or at least his breeding. Some of you may remember that I got him from Jawanna Boarder Collies in Hemlock, Michigan. They seem to breed only for color and have little regard for much else. At least thats my opinion of them. Hopefully my vet can figure out some of these issue. I really hate to think I have to drug my dog to take him to the vet though.
  16. Thanks, allingande. I will definitely look into that, plus the modification you made. I wish I had time to do it before leaving Monday for a long road trip, but will look into it when I get back again. I have abandoned the use of travel harnesses, because I felt they were not necessarily that safe, and on a two or three day road trip with 10 hours of driving each day, it seems imperative to me that my dogs get to move around. We stop every two hours to get out and stretch for 5 minutes, and they have the whole back seat plus the foot well which I build up with luggage so that they get that extra 4" or so, but it's still not much room. They like to change positions, get close to each other, get far apart, and so on. The modification you talk about should work well.
  17. @Meghan Thank you so much for tips Meghan. I started practicing the relaxation protocol with Sunee a few days ago and can already see an improvement in his reactivity level. He also responds really well to being rewarded for his good behaviour (we try to ignore him when he behaves badly ones unless it's so bad that it can't be ignored and then he is put in his crate to calm down). I will definitely add the sign to the door so just as you said I don't need to rush to answer it. I believe we will eventually get there. It's just the matter of time. Thank you so much again and best of luck to you with Bailey!
  18. I hope you like them, we have modified how we use them which doesn’t make them as safe but we feel will still be effective in a crash, particularly with 2 larger border collies who weigh enough to make the seat belts work properly. What we have done is rather than have the seat belt feed through the back of the harness which keeps the dog secure to the seat but really restricts their wriggle room, which would be fine of shortish trips but not 14 hour ones. We use a short loop of rope that is called a soft shackle and link that through the back of the harness and seat belt, it gives them an extra 6/8 inches of movement, means they will move on impact but will be pulled up before slamming into the front seats and certainly can not become airborne. The shackle is a speciality piece of kit used on racing sailing boats and came of a 100ft boat so is certainly strong enough to restrain a border collie. They are comfortable and relaxed in the car, safe in the passenger compartment, and acting as faux body guards for me.
  19. It actually makes me feel better to know that this is not uncommon. thank you! We are working at it!
  20. My guess is the forum software got updated and the badges are a new "feature". Only the site admin can turn them off. I am both a "Newbie" for my first post (despite being here since 2004) and a "Posting Machine" (>500 posts) apparently so I am now paralyzed with indecision, unable to ascertain my place in the world.
  21. On leash at all times. All dogs will chase livestock and most can't be trusted to be recalled. A Border Collie will chase livestock. Livestock that is chased will end up getting hurt. Even a Border Collie that has never shown interest in stock will chase stock. When we train Border Collies to herd, it always starts out as chasing. Usually as very young dogs, always in controlled environments (like a round pen) where the dog can be stopped or discouraged from chasing or injuring stock. In an open field with an untrained dog, it's a disaster waiting to happen. I agree that a muzzle would be unnecessary if the dog is leashed. I would keep the dog leashed and not on a long line. On a leash, you can discourage chase behavior. A long line will encourage by giving the dog some room to chase. Long lines are fine in a training environment but for walking around someone else's farm with an untrained (and by untrained I mean not trained as a stock dog) a long line just gives the dog room to lunge after stock.
  22. Thanks, alligande! I will look into those. I have never been happy with the travel harnesses I have used and these days don't use them at all, as they are clearly uncomfortable for the dogs and don't look to me as if they'd do much good if there were a real crash.
  23. I use sleepypod harnesses. When we came to Europe I bought an Allsafe German harness with us, it’s very German and it doesn’t use any buckles and is a real pain to put on and take off, plus it just didn’t look that comfortable, but it was made really well. When I got my second border collie, once he was an adult I went looking for a new harness and found the US based sleepypods, and promptly bought one for my older dog as well. They are well made, much more comfortable for the dog, easy to take on and off, there are no buckles that can fail where the harness attaches to the seat belt. neither harness is a walking around harness, the sleepypods are fine for travel breaks but I wouldn’t want to use one on a walk. Both my husband and I feel that we want the dogs in the passenger part of the car and not in the crumple zone of the car, especially on the busy highways.
  24. I've ordered the Duralactin and Cosequin, arriving by the weekend hopefully. I'm thinking it will be 3-4 weeks before I see a difference. Will keep you updated and thanks for the info! Ruth & Gibbs
  25. Ok, all makes sense, and thanks on the muzzle note. As for longline, yea, since its not our property I don't know how everyone's setup with fencing and the like, so until we're able to guarantee everyone can be safe and isolated, long line it is! I'll update how things turn out, and if any specific issues arise! Should be a fun week.
  26. I have heard good things about Gunner and Ruffland (previously RTK) crates. Gunner is double-walled so be certain about your measurements - inner and outer.
  27. I am glad you want to be prepared, but don't overthink it. Just keep it simple. Definitely keep her on a long line if there is no fencing. That will prevent any major incidents - chasing livestock or gripping them. And since she is on a long line, if she shows too much interest in the livestock and doesn't pay attention to you, then you can employ distraction/training strategies to redirect her attention. Personally, I would expect her to be very interested in the new sights and smells. If she wasn't, I would be worried. Keep it fun and light and don't expect perfection. Let her have a good, and safe, time. Just re-read your OP. Regarding the muzzle: I think that would be totally unnecessary if she is kept on a long line. Just keep her far enough away from the livestock. Using a muzzle is like going to DefCon 5 without transitioning through 1-4.
  28. I'm surprised no one has commented yet. I have NO experience with this, but the usual advice is to keep the dog or puppy on a long line all the time until she ignores the animal in question all the time. You may be working against instinct here, in which case the long line will be necessary whenever livestock are present.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...