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  2. I am in the USA, and was able to watch the trailer from a post on FB. When I searched for access, I could find nothing. I hope that it will be distributed further than just Australia. I would like to watch as it sounds interesting.
  3. Nice video I love any video on border collies thanks for sharing
  4. I tried to watch the trailer, but got an error message saying the video was not available outside of Australia. Bummer!
  5. I swear that my Oscar was the spitting image of Dog Footrot Flats is still so much fun, and I love the movie, even if the theme song is a complete earworm
  6. Lawgirl

    Kelpies

    I am somewhat resurrecting this thread, as I have just seen an advert for a new series being produced by the Australian ABC, called Muster Dogs. The premise of the show is that five Kelpie puppies are given to five graziers from various parts of the outback, and the show follows them over a year as they train these pups up to compete against each other as "champion muster dogs". I am not exactly sure what they mean by muster dogs, but it sounds like a great excuse to see cute puppies and stockwork training, based on the trailer. I guess my Sunday evenings from 23 January 2022 are sorted for a while. Or I may just catch up on watch on demand and binge. Wish they were BCs, but maybe if it is a success other countries may pick up the format and use BCs? Not sure if anyone who is not in Australia will be able to watch, unless you have a VPN. Just in case you can, here is the link to the page https://iview.abc.net.au/show/muster-dogs And for video of a Kelpie dog working stock, there are some links to Facebook videos in a previous post of mine about a world record price for a Kelpie in 2021.
  7. My sincere condolences. I don't like to come to this category on the Boards so missed your post. RIP Sugarfoot.
  8. Earlier
  9. It's NOT his 'herding instinct' that's responsible for the lunging. All different breeds will do that. I've seen a chihuahua lunge at a car. As far as training help, try looking at KikoPup's videos, there's likely something about lunging and leash control. Here's what has worked consistently for all my dogs over the years: Dog tightens leash even a little bit. Owner says in a cheery voice, '"Oh, lets go another way!" turns and walks in a different direction. It takes time and consistency, but it's worked for me. Good luck! Ruth & Gibbs PS ~ You can also try using 2 leashes at the same time if you're concerned that he'll snap a leash. It's a bit more to manage for you but is probably safer.
  10. Well, I suggest then that you make it yourself, that way when it fails it will be on you. Nothing is perfect, especially when made by humans..
  11. He's getting plenty of training. This thread is as much about him as it is me being paranoid that the tiny piece of steel on the end of most leashes isn't as strong as promised by leash manufacturers, or that the emerging market steel company that forged it quietly used lower quality metal, and that it will snap when least expected. Similarly, at some point every dog product we've ever had with stitching (leather, webbing, parachute material, etc.) has eventually frayed and unwoven itself. As for Monte, his training is progressing just fine, but he's at 100%, herding instinct-wise, and he will still periodically lunge at cars, or bicycles that sneak up behind us, and I'm not interested in taking a risk that his lead will fail.
  12. Just a side note as well..it may be beneficial if Monte was taught to walk properly on lead then the size and strength wouldn't matter..
  13. Thank you for replying to this thread! I'm glad those are all working for you! We used them all; raindrop/relax on the mat, worked through Karen Oteralls relaxation protocol each of us, worked on the same waiting at the bottom of the stairs, teaching toy names, big energy releasing walk at the start of the day and impulse control with treats. It didn't really seem to help him relax. But thank you. Actually a month after this, we found him a new home. We found someone wonderful, who had two border collies and lost one and wanted another to keep them company. She lives in a quieter, more rural place, has had several difficult dogs and it seemed like a better home than we could give. Thank you though, I appreciate you replying.
  14. Another point i forgot to mention, impulse control games for us have been great. Holding a treat in an open palm in front of his nose and closing it if he reaches for it. Now he'll sit and look at us until we give the command. Same with toys, he will wait until we say take, and the door, we go out first and he waits for permission.
  15. We're currently teaching our dog to settle in a more 'non training' kind of way. Rather than use a bunch of commands, eye contact and his 'yes!' cue, we're doing the raindrop technique. Essentially, you get him to lie down at your feet etc and then treats steadily drop from the sky while he's staying there calm. No eye contact or reward from you, in his mind you're not even giving the treats (he's not supposed to see them come from your hand). They just seem to appear when he's chilling out We also have worked with Karen Oteralls relaxation protocol which helped. Other things we use are chews and lickimats. Mind games wise, other than fun tricks we reinforce house rules with obidience. Telling him to wait at the door entrance, or bottom of the stairs and only come through/up when we give permission. Asking him to stay on his mat/bed while we hide treats (or ourselves) around the house then tell him to find. Teaching him the names of his toys to go fetch. Bailey can get over excited easily, and we learned through this group that we were doing far too much with him initially. Now he gets 2, sometimes 3 walks a day (depending on what we're doing), 1 of which is off lead so he can run off the energy. Otherwise he chills in the house except for maybe 2x 15 min dedicated play or training sessions. So he usually gets about 2 hours of 'active attention' from us a day (including walks), although of course we're interacting with him on and off throughout the day, but more passively. Our key has been to reinforce calm. Hope this helps and good luck!
  16. The first thought that came to my mind was also a leather leash - and to check out the Farm Diggity page. If you want a leash constructed with climbing rope, I saw a lot on Amazon, but check out https://www.mountaindogproducts.com/shop-our-leashes/ They have a forever warranty.
  17. Thanks all! We saw our trainer last week and have another session this week. Typically he was an A* pupil didn't the session, and didn't react once...! It was good to remind him, and me, of the reactivity/desensitisation 'game' we play and we're putting it back into practice again on our usual walks. He's not a particularly treat orientated dog, but he's responding well to the game/success as the reward, rather than just food. I'd say he's currently reacting to 75% of dogs we see at night, and maybe 40% during the day. Although, we went for a run today and he only reacted to 1 dog out of 6 We're working towards a 75% success rate (ie, 25% reactivity only) to help reinforce the training. Still a way to go yet, but seeing as he was reacting 95% of the time (on lead) before, we're on the right track again! And I'll be sure to check out Kikopup, thanks for the tip!
  18. I've seen those carabiner/carbine clips release dogs over and over. I would never use one of those; plus, as Journey said, aluminum (no matter how "aero-spaced") is not going to be equal to a brass spring-loaded bolt snap. I think a clue to the clip's efficiency is when they say it's so easy to snap on with one hand. Easy on and easy to release - especially for the dog!
  19. oooo.....thanks for the tip on Farm Diggity. Went to their website. Loved the leashes.....and the other stuff! Definitely bookmarked for future reference. I love finding new places to shop!!
  20. Leather. The weakest part of a lead is the clip. The one you linked to above has aluminum. Good ole fashioned leather. Try Gun Dog Supply or better yet, Farm Diggity, the leads they make are indestructible and it's an American company owned by sheepdog trialers and breeders.
  21. Thanks all! I got a recommendation from a friend to try this Collar brand leash: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09HX7ZVVQ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_QGVDTH0QE453MCGQMNH3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  22. I know I am coming in a bit late here, but just want to say that KIKOPUP has some very good training videos on YouTube that deal with on-leash reactivity and also reactivity in general. I highly recommend her. The videos are clear, concise, include demonstration, and she doesn't ever waste your time with chatter or promotion, but gets right to the point.
  23. Another vote for good quality leather leashes, which will last if, as has been noted, a puppy doesn't chew them and, I will add, if you put leather conditioner on them now and then the same as y ou would for a good pair of leather boots. A fellow dog person I know swears by her neoprene leashes, which do look very good quality, but I personally prefer the leather as they are more supple,. I go for narrow ones, because the wider ones do not allow me to feel the movement of the dog as well. Suzanne Clothier sells excellent leather leashes on her website. Expensive, but will last forever if cared for well.
  24. I'm old-school. I still use a good quality 6 foot leather leash. Been using them since I started training dogs 47 years ago ( at that time I had German Shepherds). My leashes are not wide; I prefer a 1/2 inch width with a regular spring-loaded buckle snap. I have leashes that are maybe 25 years old and still look good. If you take care of them and don't let them lay around to be chewed up by puppies, they can last a really long time. The key is probably to make sure it is good quality, and therefore a bit more expensive. I like the "grip" they provide when handling, as opposed to nylon that is too slippery. Once I break one in, the leather becomes supple and it is very comfortable, like an old shoe.
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