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Agility-The Beginning Stages


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Casper

9yr old BC

Obedience trained (knows the basics with a few extra "tricks," has been on stock some.

Never had any agility training.

 

Questions:

1.) What kind of training would you do with him before the 1st beginner agility class?

 

2.) What should I expect at the first beginner Agility class?

 

 

Weazle

8wk old BC

Obviously, no training yet LOL

 

Question:

1.) Where to start with training? What kind of things to teach him and what kind of things to NOT teach him?

 

2.) What kind of timeline have you used with your dogs?

(Example: 8wks old - 6 mnths old basic obedience; 6 mnths - started [instert obstacle] training; 1 yr - jump training....etc.)

 

 

I'll take all/any info you guys can send my way =) Thanks!

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I know many places require a dog be UTD on shots, have a good recall (because at some stage you will be off leash, though not often in the beginner type classes), and a stay is a plus.

 

Many places offer puppy agility where they introduce you to a lot of flatwork and foundation skills (which pay off in spades). I started my current dog that competes when she was 6 months. At 6 mos she had a bomb proof stay, great recall, and was good off leash. It was a puppy type class and now she is just over 2 and we are having a blast competing. My newest addition is in the beginner class (she's 1.5) and I admit I haven't done as much flatwork with her and I'm regretting it. I'm going to be taking the next few weeks to build a better foundation.

 

Beginner classes are usually on leash and they introduce you to each obstacle slowly and safely each week. You will do baby sequences (putting a few obstacles together) and work on the beginnings of front crosses and rear crosses and having a lot of fun. The jumps are either not set or are at 8in, the contact obstacles may be lowered (we have a lowered AFrame and small table, but regular size teeter/dogwalk), and the weave poles are open (depending on what method the facility uses).

 

I have no advice on what you should/not train prior to the class but have some obedience work under your belt. When I started with Punk at 6 mos, we had done no previous agility work. She hadn't seen a single obstacle and didn't have any sort of touch/target command. But we winged it and she rocked it. :D

 

The most important thing...have FUN! :rolleyes:

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Agree with the fun bit :rolleyes:

Every trainer will have different methods, and each dog is different

I would practise jogging with your dog so they are not freaked out when you run :D

Teach some distance work - like going out to something

and teach lots of tricks - rear end awareness ones are good but anything makes them smarter to pick up new tricks

 

For puppy, take it slow, teach pup to be a happy pup in all locations, to walk happily on all different floor surfaces. Get a good stay and try and do some distance downs

 

Sending away round a trree or something and adding up distance can be good too

 

Mainly tho teach them to use their mind and bodies, to enjoy and trust working with you is great fun

 

then wait and see what method your trainer uses

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I was just at a Puppy Foundation agility seminar (my puppy just turned 3, BTW!) and this book was discussed a LOT: Agility Right From the Start. It might be a little hard-core, though, if you're just starting out and all you want to do is learn the obstacles and have a bit of fun with your dog.

 

Maybe someday I will get serious about it, but for now I'm just out for something different & fun. =)

 

 

Casper is good with running beside me too... so I guess that will be a plus.

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As far as what to expect at your first beginner agility class that is tough to say. Everyone teaches classes differently, I have heard of some people doing sequencing and being on full size equipment after just a few classes. But I don't think I would recommend that.

 

The place I train at doesn't even put you on any equipment for the first 6wks, it is all foundation stuff, games to play for attention and to teach things like focus, stays, beginning handling exercises (flat work or heel work on both sides) you learn front and rear crosses on the flat, we play bang it games with a tippy board, and plank work and beginning 2o2o contact work.

 

After that there is a 6wk class that starts on 1/2 size equipment and channel weaves, the next 6wks puts on you on full size equipment (all at the dogs pace of course) and the very beginning of sequencing.

 

After that you move to the sequencing classes, and they move up in difficulty as your skill level increases.

 

 

For your pup, get him used to walking on ALL kinds of surfaces (loud, tippy, wobbly surfaces) teach him front and hind end awareness, LOTS of heel work on either side, lots of focus and attention games. And I would recommend teaching your pup to have a LOT of value in a game of tug.

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For your older dog I would just make sure he has basic obedience behaviours (sit, stay, down the basics really) but the main thing is a working relationship with you even if it is only at home is a major thing. I see so many people that come into class and don't have a working relationship with their dogs at home so to try and build one at class can be difficult. Make sure you know what your dogs favourite reward is whether it be food or toy. You need to know what their absolute fav food is or which toy they like the best.

 

At your first class you will probably just be doing sits and stays and some focus work, teaching your dog to pay attention to you. Then all the foundation work that comes with agility. Such as walking on new/moving surfaces, learning to work with distraction and eventually off lead. Of course there may be a tunnel or two at first. Then you would eventually move onto obstacle training. But it depends on the class.

 

With puppies you need to start with just relationship building. Lots of play while teaching the basics. You don't want to puppy to find playing with the other dog more fun than playing with you. Lots of rear end awareness and walking on new things or things that move, confidence building and solid foundations. As for obstacle training I just started doing that with my 10 month old. Doing puppy jumps and teaching the tyre jump on the ground, the "contact" position on the end of the dog walk and teaching the box method for a running a frame. I did teach her tunnels and the table though when she was a teeny weenie baby, and I would have liked to have got her used to the cloth tunnel or chute when she was little but didn't have one then. It depends on the dog and its personal development. But you need to let them be puppies too!

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Maybe someday I will get serious about it, but for now I'm just out for something different & fun. =)

Casper is good with running beside me too... so I guess that will be a plus.

 

Even if you aren't going to get serious, Agility Right From the Start is a good investment. The foundation games "Aim for it" and "Race to Reward" are something that would be very appropriate for both puppy and older dog. Also, the exercises where you teach the dog to demand noise and demand movement (not in an inappropriate way!) are excellent. There are a lot of exercises in Agility Right From the Start that you can work on at home until you start building your own equipment :rolleyes::D :D

 

It is pricey, but worth it, I think - even for someone who only means to have some fun with Agility.

 

If you get into your classes and want to learn more, I highly recommend this book.

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...the main thing is a working relationship with you even if it is only at home is a major thing. I see so many people that come into class and don't have a working relationship with their dogs at home so to try and build one at class can be difficult.

 

This.

 

Start playing games together before your classes start, silly pet tricks, run with me, pre-agility stuff so that your dog has an idea about you two working as a team. That makes things SO much easier.

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With your older boy betweed obed and herding you already more than likely have the basics down, except for targeting (see below). With your baby - sits, downs, recall, stay, spin left, spin right, targeting to your hand and a disc on the ground. Walking on uneven surfaces, surfaces that tip, rough surfaces, smooth surfaces, wet or dry.Something you can teach both you baby and your older man is going to a target and touching it with their nose. A target is normally a plastic disc approx 3-4 inches in diameter you can use a margarine lid or a tupperware lid or anything similar.

 

Alot of agility clubs offer puppy kindergarten before they start agility foundation training I strongly recommend it,

 

I could talk all day and fill up pages of stuff you can do with both dogs :rolleyes:)

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With your older boy betweed obed and herding you already more than likely have the basics down, except for targeting (see below). With your baby - sits, downs, recall, stay, spin left, spin right, targeting to your hand and a disc on the ground. Walking on uneven surfaces, surfaces that tip, rough surfaces, smooth surfaces, wet or dry.Something you can teach both you baby and your older man is going to a target and touching it with their nose. A target is normally a plastic disc approx 3-4 inches in diameter you can use a margarine lid or a tupperware lid or anything similar.

 

Alot of agility clubs offer puppy kindergarten before they start agility foundation training I strongly recommend it,

 

I could talk all day and fill up pages of stuff you can do with both dogs :rolleyes:)

 

Thanks Pat. And yes, you are correct. He is not a finished stock dog by any means, but I have worked hin on calves and small steers so he has more than the basics as far as obedience. I didn't use the traditional cues while working stock, but I figure who cares... as long as he knows what I want who cares what "command" I use LOL

 

The older dog and I already have a working relationship, so I guess that is a big plus for agility as well. I'm guessing that the most work is going to directed towards the different surfaces and as you said, the targetting. That's something I've never done with him.

 

As far as listening, well... I can take him off-leash anywhere and he will stay in a heel position until I "turn him loose." I worked hard to socialize him and work in distracting enviroments. It really pays off.

 

I see dogs that dont have the socialization & the obedience... I wonder how people can deal with it. My biggest pet peeve when it comes to animals is untrained, unsocialized... and this goes for dogs AND horses. I expect people to be respectful towards me... I expect the same from my animals =)

 

Thanks guys. All the info has been great!! Def keep it coming.

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