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Everything posted by pammyd

  1. I havent had the time to train RC yet - mibby with my next dog But If I was doing it with ST method I would be faiding out the lure of the ball being chucked before I started raising the plank Getting full speed tossing the ball Then delay the chucking of the ball - so the dog runs the plank knowing the ball is comming but it dosent happen till he has done it at full speed Then once you have that raising the plank All I have read on it from ST she says HER dogs know the difference between playing with the toy or getting clicked and playing But if in your case getting the ball is more reinforcing than the tuggy game then he dosent have to think too much about what is getting him the extra tuggy game because he always gets the best reinforcer
  2. although i am totaly pro neutering i wouldnt use it as a behavior fix if a dog is being aggressive because of fear removing his hormones can make him less confident and more aggressive or if he has already learnt aggression as a habit then training is needed rather than surgery if he is frustraied and wants to play neutering will do nothing too many variables - as the others said we need details
  3. Good on you, she is a pretty thing but looks so scared in the photos Not much to add that hasnt already been covered better by others Take it as slow as she needs, let her pick the pace. and keep us updated lots of fotos
  4. He looks like such a lovely happy chap. I hope it all works out
  5. Thank you guys Yes sorry I didnt realise the link would post the video - I believe if you wait till the end then you can click on it to go to you tube - and yes you have to be signed in to like it Thank you all so much tho I really appreciate it
  6. I know there are loads of you here who could do this way better than me but not an expert at the clicker yet But can I ask you all a big favour Its for the Slvia Trkmans competition I have made this little video of my dogs latest trick Please can you just click like the most likes wins one of her training videos Thankyou in advance
  7. aww that is really touching
  8. I had this with my rescue too The first thing I did with zero tolerance for fight - practice makes perfect and if you let them practice fighting they will get good at it I took a step back and kept the dogs seperate more, but did alot of lead walking together Only had them out together when I could supervise fully and ANY posturing, bullying, resource guarding, resource stealing, hard eyes, or just a feeling of tension in the air and the offender got a time out (I kept a house line on Mia and actually she was small enough that I could just pick her up and bundle her into her crate) I also spent alot of time training them around each other - clicking Mia for watching me patting Ben, rewarding one for me feeding the other (her food agression was huge but I rewarded her as I was giving Ben a treat, then I waited a fraction of a sec, then longer and longer until I could give Ben a load of treats while she sat happily tail wagging knowing Ben getting treats ment she would get treats also teaching a positive interuptor and a instant 'bed' command so I could distract her before things escalated Hope that helps a little and you get ontop of this quick for what its worth my two totaly adore each other now, they can eat treats scattered on the ground together
  9. Hi there, as others have said it is a tough nut to crack One thing that will help alot - but difficult to do I know - try and keep her away from cars for a week or two - if she is OK IN the car then drive here somewhere a long way from cars This will let her stress levels drop and start to break the habit also If you can work on getting her really into chasing something like a ball in this time?? This kind on manic behaviour can kinda be stress releif for a dog, they NEED to chase something - better something you have control over Then work on the car thing I would say keep her further away from cars and when she sees one in the distance, when she is aware but not flipping out ask her for the alternative behaviour and then reward lots (with something really yummy ) and walk away Try not to get her to the stage where she is flipping out - it is unlikely she is able to learn anything at this point - she is just reinforcing the habit You will find you can close the distance slowly, and she should start to look to you when she sees the car - because she knows something nice is about to happen COntrol unleashed is great too - I 2nd that - is the group running again? GREAT!
  10. Aww thankyou good to be back. Guess I should stick up some new fotso of the hooligan pair
  11. My boy Ben was just the same. Even now he wont eat if anyone is in the same room as him - but he will sometimes bring big chunks of food into the room where I am once I have left him to eat and yup before raw people commented on how skinny he was, last week my mum pointed out that he is getting a leetle chubby - but easy to fix
  12. He is lovely The colours and coat and ears and everything could easily be a pure BC But from the fotos I would guess at a cross He actually looks very like my friends collie cross basenji (who I cant fornd fotos of at the moment)
  13. Well done both of you Lovely way to end his 'live' compeating
  14. Lots of good ideas here Just to confuse you more here is how I taught it I free shaped my dogs to go to a mat - as in the 'go to your place' CU exercise. I made being on the matt vv rewarding so the dog had a happy race to the mat and a rock solid stay on the matt I then put that on command only so the dog only went to the matt on command and could recal past the matt when needed Then I used a different matt (dont think it mattered but it mattered to me) stood infront of the dog, called him too me and asked for a down on the matt - and rewarded like crazy on the matt repeate, taking tiny steps back Because the dog has already learnt to work away from you and down away from you on an object then this is fairly easy for them I also mixed it up so that sometimes I called them all the way to me, sometimes downed on the mat then I reduced the distance slightly and removed the mat for 1 rep - but the area on the floor was the same, they dog tends to be fooled into dropping without the mat - to a MAJOR reward, with my dogs I had to put the mat back several times and just do the odd 'trick' one with no matt there till they got the hang of it Then take the matt on the move to different locations, and phase it out the same way depending on the dog 5 or 10 locations and they will figure out the down means drop where you are
  15. I think this is the important point You have a smart dog who has learnt a behaviour chain He dosent understand that the position of walking by your side is what is wanted - he is getting rewarded for going to the end of the lead and then returning to you Personaly I would say be far far more rewarding in the right place reward him before he gets the chance to move away from where you want him to Yes he will prob be looking up at you to start with, but what you can do, once he understands the position is wait till he looks away from you and reward then reward what you want, reward 100 times more than you think you need to and he will v quickly learn that being in the 'correct' position is v fun and rewarding and you will actually be able to phase out the treats faster Especially with a smart dog you get what you reward for, if he has got to the end of the lead then you have lost his attention. take the lead off so you are not relying on it as a failsafe and you have to keep his focus (if it is legal and safe to do that)
  16. Thankyou guys some interesting articles and in the main I totaly agree I think even IF a wolf or dog did the alpha roll thing we cannot possibly understand the subitlties of comunications that are going on here or the reasons behind it Its funny we pick up on the pinning them down bit to make us boss, why dont we think about where and how we pee? - would it make me more or less of an alpha if I cocked my leg and peed over my dogs pee - or would I just get arrested As a child I remember reading an article saying to be the 'top dog' you had to stair down your dog - holding eye contact until your dog looked away, and then once they did you had to assert your dominance by mounting the dog The photograph was of a small lady 'mounting' a v confused looking retrever Thankfully that one never caught on either Dogs have been living with humans for a very long time, much better if we try and behave like humans and let our dogs behave like dogs I totaly agree with not having 100% obedient either My dogs are well trained, with rosettes and stuff to their names - but they also sometimes bounce and pull on the lead and ignore me - and I am totaly happy with that. If I NEED their focus then I get it, if I want to just chill on a walk and look at the flowers then we walk, being aware of where each other are without the need to have strict commands
  17. I worked lots in different ways - didnt do a lead tug as I aint always gonna have a lead on her Recals in house - or feeding to a whistle is good - whistle means dinner On walks I just ignored my girl until she was heading to me then I chucked a treat and sent her to go play again. A few times of this and she started seeing coming to me as a good thing Then I would call her when she was already running to me and reward with some fun games and yummy treats then send her away to play Random noises is good too - when I really need her I let out a huge HOWL (think wearwolf in London - AAARRROOOOOHHHHH) and they come a running Then I slowly wotk on building up distractions - until she is trained I dont call her back when I dont think she will come back so - runing towards me, then looking at me, facing the other way but not distractd, looking at something but not majorly focused, having a little sniff, moving away from me, focused on something, running away from me, chasing something - take one step at a time and if they aint running back to you every time totaly happy they you aint ready for the next step so dont call then HTH
  18. LOL Ben faceplants the weaves when he is shouting at them too I watch my pair doing full on zoomies in rough undergrowth leaping tree roots, taking crazy turns and puppy high speed smackdowns - compair that to a couple of times a week agility - jumps all the same hight, sensible gaps between jumps, even ground, (hopefully) good intructions where you are going next, no drilling obsticles for repetative train injury, no other dogs on course to dodge/pounce I would say my dogs real life is much harder on them than agility
  19. Agree get help Dont even think about dominance - or letting them sort it out themselves Dogs get good at what they practise and the more they practise fighting the more they will do it In the dog world there are simple rules Whoever has their paws/mouth on it owns it If a dog dosent feel safe with their item then they will learn to attack any dog that comes near them whenever they have something totaly ZERO tolerance Best to put everything away, but if it happens they someone has something and the other one wants it TOUGH - the dog that is bugging for the item gets a time out. Human or dog taking a prized item from another dosnet show dominance, it just show the dog that it is not safe to enjoy a chew, they have 2 choices, nice polite dogs might put up with it, and get depressed, other dogs may get defensive and attack before the other gets the chance
  20. Weeell I will say my bit here - but its prob not what you are gonna want to hear You dont have to live with dominance scuffles Instead of looking at everything from a dom point of view just look at it from a training point of view. Do you want your dogs fighting?? - most likely no - so this is a behaviour you dont want so you have to train something else Like you I believed all the dog to dog dom thing Until I got Mia She came to my house like the most dom dog you have ever seen Ben was not alowed to have a chew, talk to me, walk tru doors, look in the direction of Mia nd my poor boy was getting so depressed all this from a dog who was supposed to be a foster (I failed there) Rather than thinking of her as dom I rethought it and decided it better to call her a bully I decided fights and bullying were a total no no and hard stairing, posturing, body blocking, lip curling, freezing anything resulted in her going into her crate for a time out (I kept a house line on her) and any bad from Ben too I rewarded with some time out too Once I decided fights were NOT something that was going to happen in MY home we went from at least 1 fight a day, Ben scared to move and v depressed - to 1 scuffle in the past 18 months and dogs that totaly respect each other - neither will take a chew off the other (although Mia begs at Ben doing all her tricks incase he will reward her with the chew) they play together, they share treats scattered on the ground Basicaly if the dogs practise fighting they will learn to be good at it. If one dog is rewarded by getting what it wants by being agressive then they will do it more often
  21. Everyone thinks they want a motivated dog until they get one hart work! In a way your dog IS reactive if she is screaming at things - its just not reactive like you expect Some of the control unleased exercises will really help Your reving her up in the stay at home is cool, but dont take it straight to class, build up the distractions. Start in the house, then the garden, then out on walks when there is noone there, then when there are a few distractions, then when there are some dogs running about - then in the agility class Its a v big step from home to the class Try lots of impulse control things - no pulling on the lead, wait at door, wait for food In class I would do lots of heelwork, stays, focusing. Pretend you are taking her to the start line but if she gets OTT calmly walk away and do some stays or something Same with the disc - if she is screaming just put it away and walk away, if she is sitting calmly with eye contact then she gets to play
  22. She trained them well tho - all those puddle by the door and they realised My two on the other hand Ben sits by the door and quietly cries, then Mia will go and sit next to him, then she will come and sit infront of me to make sure I notice that Ben needs to go out Mia comes over, head in my lap and stairs at me - and you just know If the need is great she YIPS once very loud
  23. Aww it can take a while to learn your dog My friends have a dog who gives ONE sly sideways glance while trotting past - thats all you get - miss it and she pees at the door
  24. Ben was nearly 2 before he lifted his leg - he learnt from watching Mia who marks things when she is stressed Even now he mainly squats but the odd time he lifts his leg The one that had me in stitches 1st thing in the morning - full pee tank - he sniffs around at the tree, gets himself ready to pee, lifts the WRONG leg - so is now stood next to the tree peeing away from it Looks sheepish puts the leg down and squats then (all this while still peeing) slooooowly lifts up the correct leg and proudly pees up the tree Morning pee and yoga all at once
  25. LOL nice thread Mia free shapes her range of tricks at Ben when he has a chew she wants, in the end it tends to work cos Ben gets fed up with a dog nodding, sneezing, pawing and spinning and so wonders off. When I was trying to get Ben over his fear of the seesaw I had it set up in my living room and we did it once just before we went out for a walk Then one day I was putting my shoes on - but not fast enough for his urgent need - so he took himself over the seesaw and ran looking at the door with a hopeful look that it would magically open because he had done the scary thing
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