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Mariji

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About Mariji

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Australia
  1. My first agility dog has very solid 2o2o contacts but the way she does them is extremely hard on her shoulders. I toyed with the idea of teaching RC's. But not many people in my area have them successfully. So I decided to retrain my youngest who at the time had only just started competing and had 2o2o contacts, her contacts were much nicer but because she hadn't had 2o2o contacts for as long I thought she would be the best dog to start with. If it didn't work I wouldn't ruin my older dogs contacts. The younger dog now has a perfect running A-Frame which she never ever misses and a running dog
  2. I honestly do not see how forcing a dog to fetch would even work in the first place. I know if I did that to my dogs they would never think it is fun which defeats the purpose. I would purely use a clicker (as it is my fav method) and shape them to retrieve any object then add a cue and use that cue on live game. There would be a brief confusion period I'm assuming but that wouldn't last long with practice.
  3. There is nothing wrong with toy drive and the same goes for food, even the more "obsessive" toy drive. It will be a fantastic asset in agility. I would try to create interaction in the toy. i.e. try turn the obsessions for say retrieving into tugging. Just anything that involves you a bit more than fetching a ball. Saying that I taught many of my agility obstacles with a tennis ball and it worked just fine. I would play small sessions with your boy who may I say is stunning Encourage him to tug and don't let him circle. Keep working on tricks in small doses as it does help them focus on work
  4. For me I don't use restrained recalls at all. I don't see anything wrong with them but my dogs have a speedy recall anyway and if it isn't I can amp it up without a restrained recall. I was also told to always sound excited but it doesn't work for me. I just ask my dog if she is ready and she will reply, then I know she is. Squealing at her will not do any good. She is a talker and I have learnt to accept that as long as it doesn't interfere with any commands, I just see it as her way of telling me she is rearing to go and for a dog that had motivational issues I am more than happy with that.
  5. I am more than confident to say that had the conditions been like that at any of the venues I compete at it would have been cancelled for sure. We have cancelled trials over much less. I would never run my dog in conditions like that in fear of injury for my dog and myself. Although the video quality was spectacular, you could see every muscle in the dog working. I have never seen agility like that before and it sure puts a new perspective on what my dogs are willing to do for me.
  6. I know I would be annoyed if somebody hit or even attempted to hit my dog regardless of what they were doing. So I don't ever let my dogs get in that situation. You have no need to ask my dogs to sit, back up or get out or even ask them to do any tricks. As far as I am concerned I am the only person that is allowed to ask them to do anything. I am proactive in making sure they don't annoy anyone and there would be no need for any of the above to happen. Saying that I would have quite happily smacked a few dogs across the head because of their obnoxious behaviour, but it isn't usually the dogs
  7. When I geta puppy it sleeps in a cat crate (as my puppies are usually tiny) for the first week on a chair next to my bed. I slowly increase distance away from the bed till the crate is on the ground by the door. Then the crat slowly works its way out the door to the dog room. I have never had a puppy wake me up bar once or twice to go to the toilet. I feed my dogs including adult rescues in their crates so it builds value for their crates and at night they rush to their own crates, I zip em up and leave them till morning. They get let out when I get up regardless of time, and never make a sou
  8. We just got my partners brother to weld them. They didn't need to be fancy just solid and built to regulation size. I got 2 sets of 3 to make six. And when I was teaching the 2x2 I simply put just 2 poles on each set of 3. Worked just the same.
  9. We built ours and it added up to be alot cheaper than buying them here. We bought galvanised steel from the local hardware cut it up to competition specifications and got them welded. It was the best thing I ever did. As I trained my first dog on PVC poles and it was so difficult as she was forever knocking them over not too mention she also learnt to barge through them.
  10. I have trained all my dogs with 2x2's and wouldn't have it any other way! My first dog could do 12 in a few days but that was because I was so excited and rushed it. But she still is phenomenally fast and has wicked entries. I am currently training my other two and am going alot slower especially with the entries. My puppy is on 4 poles and I am staying there until her entries are unbeatable and she is consistently fast. She is a weave demon and flys through the poles, we did get a bit stuck for a day but she seems to have worked things out and has now got it down pat. My rescue is also learni
  11. I agree with using directionals, I just found I have never needed to use in particular left and rights, don't get me wrong I have trained with them and they work fine. I had toyed with a "flip" cue especially for independent contact obstacles and a fast dog it would be fantastic. But I just don't see the need to a left or right. If I am in the wrong place then I am a bad handler and to fix it I would simply get her attention then redirect her but that rarely happens as I always strive to get to the right place so she has the right information. We do have Gamblers and Snooker but even for that
  12. I know that I don't need them. I disagree with your first statement, if you are consistent with your handling you should be able to direct the dog with just that. Also the general out and here command but the left and right doesn't really need to be used. Perhaps some people don't have a way of handling their dog that is very consistent but I try to maintain a particular method that the dog will always be familiar with and it works at a distance. Change of arm means turn so it makes sense that a straight one means keep going, if your dog can understand that there is no need for a left or right
  13. I hear of people all the time having major issues with their multiple dog house hold. I have had up to 7 dogs in my house of a mixed gender and never had any issues. They all get their space and one on one time and I never have any issues. At the moment I have 3 Females but they are all by luck. I went out looking for a male in a litter picked a puppy and forgot to ask her gender, needless to say I didn't get what I went for but I'd never change it. My next puppy just picked her again before I knew her gender, and the last dog is a rescue I picked up and she is also a girl by chance. One day I
  14. I suppose it is different for everyone but you will be surprised how hard it is to get a dog to stop barking. In many cases they are the very high drive dogs. In my case it has been months of me trying to build drive so I let the barking happen if it means she is motivated I seriously am happy to let her bark incessantly. Which is a big statement for me as my dogs are not allowed to bark at home, not even one warning bark, zip nada nothing. Luckily my dog will only bark/whine /every noise in between when training or shaping a new behaviour. She is dead silent while running a course except for
  15. I think a JRT is a fantastic idea! They are beautiful and intelligent little dogs and would get along with a Border Collie just fine. They are both so similar so would burn each other out. They are very very high energy so will need alot of stimulating just the same as a Border Collie. My sister has one and she is extremely intelligent and willing to please. She is very high drive and can be quite motion sensitive so needs all the same training as you older dog to keep them focused on you and not on their surroundings so much. A JRT would be in my next top picks of dogs. I think if it grows u
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