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Mariji's Achievements


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  1. My first agility dog has very solid 2o2o contacts but the way she does them is extremely hard on her shoulders. I toyed with the idea of teaching RC's. But not many people in my area have them successfully. So I decided to retrain my youngest who at the time had only just started competing and had 2o2o contacts, her contacts were much nicer but because she hadn't had 2o2o contacts for as long I thought she would be the best dog to start with. If it didn't work I wouldn't ruin my older dogs contacts. The younger dog now has a perfect running A-Frame which she never ever misses and a running dogwalk but it isn't as consistent. That merely comes down to us not having a Dogwalk to train on though. We have trialled for a while now and the criteria hasn't slipped and they are holding up reliably. So now I have decided to try retraining the older dog. She also jumps of contacts if released early so is a bit harder. I am using the Sylvia Trkman method and so far they are working great. I will still keep a stopped dogwalk as the contact area on the down ramp is too small I am sure she would miss it and afterall my problem is with the AF. I don't see why you can't give it a go. It is just repetition, we are training them on our agility break over Christmas so she doesn't compete using 2o2o while I am teach RC's at home and it doesn't confuse or contradict her.
  2. I honestly do not see how forcing a dog to fetch would even work in the first place. I know if I did that to my dogs they would never think it is fun which defeats the purpose. I would purely use a clicker (as it is my fav method) and shape them to retrieve any object then add a cue and use that cue on live game. There would be a brief confusion period I'm assuming but that wouldn't last long with practice.
  3. There is nothing wrong with toy drive and the same goes for food, even the more "obsessive" toy drive. It will be a fantastic asset in agility. I would try to create interaction in the toy. i.e. try turn the obsessions for say retrieving into tugging. Just anything that involves you a bit more than fetching a ball. Saying that I taught many of my agility obstacles with a tennis ball and it worked just fine. I would play small sessions with your boy who may I say is stunning Encourage him to tug and don't let him circle. Keep working on tricks in small doses as it does help them focus on working with you. You can play anything that needs control. So practice sit stays and release to a toy. Develop that through wicked distractions like dropping the toy infront of him. Teach a leave it just by shaping which teaches control as you could be swinging it around infront and they can't touch it till you say so. You may have to relaly figure out how he works. He may be obsessive at first because of the pent up energy so might need a run first. Or vice versa you may find he works better at the beginning and gets more obsessive towards the end. So us ethat to your advantage and keep your sessions short. But I would just go out and just play, tug, retrieving a tug toy and sit/down until you throw it again or resume tugging. Give him a behaviour to do instead of circling, it may take some pratice before he can control himself but he will get there.
  4. For me I don't use restrained recalls at all. I don't see anything wrong with them but my dogs have a speedy recall anyway and if it isn't I can amp it up without a restrained recall. I was also told to always sound excited but it doesn't work for me. I just ask my dog if she is ready and she will reply, then I know she is. Squealing at her will not do any good. She is a talker and I have learnt to accept that as long as it doesn't interfere with any commands, I just see it as her way of telling me she is rearing to go and for a dog that had motivational issues I am more than happy with that. My puppy on the other hand is the deadly silent kind. She doesn't look ready and is busy right up until I bring her into the ring trying to smooch kisses off everyone but when I lead out she has a devil look in her eyes and rips around at warp speed. Then is back to kissy girl the second we finish. As for the recalls I have never and probably will never use my dogs name as a recall. Mainly because If I need to get my dogs attention I will say their name but expect them to stay. In a restrained recall I would just amp them up saying "you ready, you ready you ready" then release with their release word. I would expect the holder to let go instantly when I release them. I don't see how it can mess up their release word.
  5. I am more than confident to say that had the conditions been like that at any of the venues I compete at it would have been cancelled for sure. We have cancelled trials over much less. I would never run my dog in conditions like that in fear of injury for my dog and myself. Although the video quality was spectacular, you could see every muscle in the dog working. I have never seen agility like that before and it sure puts a new perspective on what my dogs are willing to do for me.
  6. I know I would be annoyed if somebody hit or even attempted to hit my dog regardless of what they were doing. So I don't ever let my dogs get in that situation. You have no need to ask my dogs to sit, back up or get out or even ask them to do any tricks. As far as I am concerned I am the only person that is allowed to ask them to do anything. I am proactive in making sure they don't annoy anyone and there would be no need for any of the above to happen. Saying that I would have quite happily smacked a few dogs across the head because of their obnoxious behaviour, but it isn't usually the dogs fault, simply the owners crappy job at training the dog or managing the dog.
  7. When I geta puppy it sleeps in a cat crate (as my puppies are usually tiny) for the first week on a chair next to my bed. I slowly increase distance away from the bed till the crate is on the ground by the door. Then the crat slowly works its way out the door to the dog room. I have never had a puppy wake me up bar once or twice to go to the toilet. I feed my dogs including adult rescues in their crates so it builds value for their crates and at night they rush to their own crates, I zip em up and leave them till morning. They get let out when I get up regardless of time, and never make a sound except if they are desperate to pee. Its just about being tough. Build value for the crate, by playing games or feeding in it then just lock em up somewhere relatively out of ear shot. They will get used to it. I know it sounds tough but you letting them out when they whine is not getting you anywhere I think it is good routine for the dogs and they always have a solid nights sleep. Being in a crate is a definite time for them to sleep even if we are still awake, they know it is time for them to sleep. I would perhaps just build some value for it, then leave it open in your room and eventually locking them in. If the whinging is too much for you to bear just put the crate outside the room until they stop. Dont give in! You'll have to start all over again
  8. We just got my partners brother to weld them. They didn't need to be fancy just solid and built to regulation size. I got 2 sets of 3 to make six. And when I was teaching the 2x2 I simply put just 2 poles on each set of 3. Worked just the same.
  9. We built ours and it added up to be alot cheaper than buying them here. We bought galvanised steel from the local hardware cut it up to competition specifications and got them welded. It was the best thing I ever did. As I trained my first dog on PVC poles and it was so difficult as she was forever knocking them over not too mention she also learnt to barge through them.
  10. I have trained all my dogs with 2x2's and wouldn't have it any other way! My first dog could do 12 in a few days but that was because I was so excited and rushed it. But she still is phenomenally fast and has wicked entries. I am currently training my other two and am going alot slower especially with the entries. My puppy is on 4 poles and I am staying there until her entries are unbeatable and she is consistently fast. She is a weave demon and flys through the poles, we did get a bit stuck for a day but she seems to have worked things out and has now got it down pat. My rescue is also learning poles as a way of learning distance as she is so clingy with jumps. It has taken alot longer simply because she has had no training all her life bar cattle work so is still mastering shaping. But even she is managing 4 poles, and as slow a process as it is with her she is lightning fast. I have shown 2x2's to my students and the results are amazing. I am definitely a pro 2x2 person. I trained all my dogs to weave with only food. My first dog was solely food trained and didn't tug for ages after but managed to speed her weaves up to warp speed on just food. My puppy is training using food and ocassionally when I am out the back playing with them I will send her through and reward her with a toy but her reward quite often is simply playing rough with me. The rescue is training solely on food as she doesn't know what toys are but the method works just as well. As long as you throw the food out ahead you should have no problems.
  11. I agree with using directionals, I just found I have never needed to use in particular left and rights, don't get me wrong I have trained with them and they work fine. I had toyed with a "flip" cue especially for independent contact obstacles and a fast dog it would be fantastic. But I just don't see the need to a left or right. If I am in the wrong place then I am a bad handler and to fix it I would simply get her attention then redirect her but that rarely happens as I always strive to get to the right place so she has the right information. We do have Gamblers and Snooker but even for that I don't see the need for a left or right. Sure your generic get out and here commands are almost a necessity but if my dog undertsnads my arm changes she will know to come into me when I change arms or to keep going out when it is straight. I just like the idea more that my dog can understand what I want from her without having to use left or right. All the runs I have seen where let and right is used is generally as a last minute resort because the handler is in the wrong place. I don't know anyone who goes out on course and uses it frequently in their planning of a course. I train with and am close to a couple of the people who represented Australia on the WAC 2010 team and I will ask them if they use left and rights. As far as I know they don't but it sure is interesting. I know I would get my butt kicked for being lazy if I used a left and right to tell my dog where to go If it works for you great but we compete at a high level without it just fine. I think we should have a thread for videos I would love to see how people handle their fast dogs in particular outside of Australia.
  12. I know that I don't need them. I disagree with your first statement, if you are consistent with your handling you should be able to direct the dog with just that. Also the general out and here command but the left and right doesn't really need to be used. Perhaps some people don't have a way of handling their dog that is very consistent but I try to maintain a particular method that the dog will always be familiar with and it works at a distance. Change of arm means turn so it makes sense that a straight one means keep going, if your dog can understand that there is no need for a left or right. As for obstacle discrimination that goes back to basic training, just simply teaching your dog the name of the obstacle coupled with your handling will get you and your dog through a discrimination. I am not saying generic agility commands are not useful just the left and right tends to be a last resort when you can't be in the right place to tell your dog where to go. I'm sure I would get told I was lazy by numerous instructors if I used Left and Right instead of working to get in the right positional cue. I'm not saying they don't work for some but they sure aren't a necessity. I could direct my dog through a serp on the other side of a course if I needed to with just my arm changes. Why would I trade that for a left or right command?
  13. I hear of people all the time having major issues with their multiple dog house hold. I have had up to 7 dogs in my house of a mixed gender and never had any issues. They all get their space and one on one time and I never have any issues. At the moment I have 3 Females but they are all by luck. I went out looking for a male in a litter picked a puppy and forgot to ask her gender, needless to say I didn't get what I went for but I'd never change it. My next puppy just picked her again before I knew her gender, and the last dog is a rescue I picked up and she is also a girl by chance. One day I will get the male I was originally searching for but I for now I have an all girl household. Even my rats and the cat are girls. I think it comes down to whatever gender you want really, either gender could work just as well as the other. I wouldn't pick a gender based on they might get along better because they may not.
  14. I suppose it is different for everyone but you will be surprised how hard it is to get a dog to stop barking. In many cases they are the very high drive dogs. In my case it has been months of me trying to build drive so I let the barking happen if it means she is motivated I seriously am happy to let her bark incessantly. Which is a big statement for me as my dogs are not allowed to bark at home, not even one warning bark, zip nada nothing. Luckily my dog will only bark/whine /every noise in between when training or shaping a new behaviour. She is dead silent while running a course except for the occassional what the hell are you thinking bark. I have a feeling my puppy is going to be a barker but I will see how she develops. It is just a vent of many dogs pent up enthusiasm. And if you are involved in the sports and it is your dog then you probably wouldn't have an issue with it. Saying that there is a fine line between barking on course and barking in a crate or whilst waiting your turn. That is just a nuisance. As for Flyball it would probably be something the dogs are feeding off each other. The atmosphere is ridiculously amped up and that is kinda what the handlers want, the barking just comes along with it.
  15. I think a JRT is a fantastic idea! They are beautiful and intelligent little dogs and would get along with a Border Collie just fine. They are both so similar so would burn each other out. They are very very high energy so will need alot of stimulating just the same as a Border Collie. My sister has one and she is extremely intelligent and willing to please. She is very high drive and can be quite motion sensitive so needs all the same training as you older dog to keep them focused on you and not on their surroundings so much. A JRT would be in my next top picks of dogs. I think if it grows up with children there should be no issues especially if they are socialised with children from the breeder when they are very young. I have 3 Borders that are not a breed people tend to recommend with children and all 3 are fine with my 18 month old. I have my 2 year old before he was born so it took a while for her to adjust and we played alot of shaping games which involved her having to touch him with her nose. And not just his feet or bum, she would have to hold her nose on his belly while he kicked his feet and waved his arms around. She is now completely okay with him and will tolerate him climbing on her. My puppy was raised with him and simply adores him. And I have a 9 yr old rescue that has never met another child as far as we know and while she stays out of his way I came into the lounge about 30 mins ago to find him sitting on her and she didn't even raise a lip at him. I think it is all in the way they are raised and of course the Breeder lineage can help too. I think they are just as biddable as Border Collies most just don't do the foundation training needed. If the puppy grows up with many different children every day then I don't see the anti children being an issue. You are just as likely to get a reactive dog out of any other breed.
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