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Everything posted by muttlycrew

  1. Wow Paula...thanks! :-) I love training contacts, and since I'm a pretty OCD trainer it works well. ;-) How I trained Stella's (and now my new young dogs') contacts was by freeshaping a rear foot target in a 2o2o position and then back-chaining using toy drive. I start with one obstacle first (usually DW) until it is roughly 98%. I find most dogs then transfer the 2o2o onto the AF/teeter with no issues....the only thing i mess around with is teaching them to jump the apex of the AF and/or run past the tipping point on the teeter. It will take forever to explain, but if you would like more info please PM me. It didn't take long to train and Stella has always had rock solid contacts. My young dog is on her way to having the same contacts. Stella's contacts (OK, this is the most recent thing I can find with her contacts in it...you'll have to weed through it....sorry!!): Remedy's teeter:
  2. Here's a picture of the puppy in question. I'd imagine she's at least 16.5" currently. If she tops out at 36-40lbs, I'm OK with that. It's if for some reason she ends up being 22"+ and 45lbs+.
  3. I've been searching the forum this morning as I know this has been brought up at least a dozen times... I have a 5 month (~ 21 weeks) bitch, currently 22lbs, that has a lot of bone and massive coat. Not sure entirely who she is out of, but she is from my herding trainers nice male dog. I would say he is roughly 21.5" and 48lbs with good bone and medium coat. I really love his personality and many of his traits. I've had this bitch for about a week and am trying to decide if I want to buy her or not. Great personality, sweet as can be, not as much drive as my current working BC but I can build that...but curious as she seems quite big...I do agility first and foremost and work sheep as a hobby. My current female is 18.75" and 29lbs. I got her at 12 months and she was fully grown (apart from being very underweight). So my question: how big was your pup (height/weight) at 5 months vs full grown?
  4. Agreed. It's hard to tell if she is being reactive towards certain stimulus, or if she has been given too much freedom and is sort of correcting you for stepping out of line. It is almost like you are telling her "no" (even in a calm, non-threatening way) and she is counteracting with "excuse me?!" and giving you a correction. Sort of like a... who do you think you are? I would seek advice of a local behaviorist who can come to your home to assess the situation. There could be things you are doing subconsciously that could be contributing to this behavior. Or, it could be that she is just an extremely reactive dog who doesn't express herself well. I would second the advice of look for behaviors/warnings that she may be giving you (or to situations), telling you to back off or that she has had enough.
  5. I haven't thought about that but it wouldn't surprise me. She is allergic to just about everything out there (humans, dogs, cats, grass, pollen, etc), has had demodex, gets hot spots....I will keep this in mind. During the summer she swims 2-3x daily and does lure/agility 3-4 times a week and I do up her food and have never noticed her having issues. She puts on a lot of muscle. This is the first winter I've noticed her with a good extra pound or two. Thank you
  6. Thank you. That was the one I found, and I actually thought it was way off (for me anyway). The dog in question is my (almost) 3 y/o Golden. She is 50lbs (she's lean, but has lost some muscle over the winter) and is on TOTW which is 360 kcal/cup. If this calculator is right, as a less active dog it suggests 1099 kcal/day...which if you do the math, is roughly 3 cups of food a day. If I fed her that, I can't imagine how much weight she would put on. I feed her 1 3/4 cup a day, which is about 630 kcal/day. She's gained weight this winter at her 1 3/4 cup (or 630kcal/day), but I don't see how I could feed her any less. Sigh.
  7. I recently made the switch to TOTW Pacific. Does anyone have any useful info (websites, etc) to calculate a dogs daily caloric needs? I realize that it won't be 100% accurate, just as the feeding suggestions on the side of the bags are more of guidelines...but I was just curious.
  8. I did the allergy shot route after I couldn't watch my golden any longer. She got numerous hot spots, was constantly scratching (she would walk 4 steps, then itch, walk 4 more, then itch) and then ended up with demodex. Once that cleaned up I started the shots. We started with them weekly for 3 months, then moved to 2x a month, and we are now (almost a year later!) are on once a month shots. I must say it has been TOTALLY worth it. She is so much happier. She is allergic to every allergen she comes in contact with: cats (we have 3), dogs, human dander, dust mites, mold, pollen from trees/bushes/flowers/grasses, chicken and several other meat sources, several grains, etc. She is on a fish based food and treats only, fish oil/vit e, I keep her bedding clean and during the summer, I wipe her down when she comes in from outside. She used to get 4 anti-itch pills a day...she is now down to 1 a day (granted it IS Winter). I definitely recommend the shots.
  9. Just wanted to add (and most people know this anyway): puppies can be a huge gamble. Even hand selecting the right one (testing, meeting parents, etc) doesn't guarantee anything about how it will turn out. I also like to skip the whole chewing/potty training stage anyway and jump straight into 6+ months. That's just my .02. Good luck in your search.
  10. Hi Maja, I've enjoyed watching your videos but have not commented in that my eye is not the best since I am just learning as well. When I tried to watch your most recent video, it claims the video is unavailable for viewing. Am I doing something wrong? Katy
  11. I'm no behaviorist, but from what I can see his behavior looks like lack of socialization and dog "etiquette". From the video, if we edited Joey out and put in a cat this behavior would look like a dog who had never seen a cat and had no idea how to interact with it and has no respect for it. Edit Joey back in and lets say this was taken at a park where Steve was throwing a Frisbee/Ball, this looks like annoying "working" behavior that some BCs do. For the most part, it's just plain obnoxious and rude. Obviously we did not see the attacks on Milo/Joey so it's hard to really see where this is stemming from. I think once he settles in, learns how to communicate appropriately, and learns to take corrections from you guys (the second he eyes another dog, a sharp HEY or like Steve was doing, body-blocking)and the other dogs, I think he will get the hint. I look forward to reading others opinions.
  12. Thanks for the tips so far. They are greatly appreciated. Luckily, Novice runs last on Friday so I will be there long enough to watch a good percentage of the runs before me. I want to sit and watch and let Stella get used to the new environment. I hope I can find someone to video our run...but I can't make any promises.
  13. Stella and I are entered in our first trial this weekend, running in Novice/Novice. I would love some tips/advice as I want to make this experience as fun and enjoyable as possible for the both of us. I am just a tad nervous Thanks!!!
  14. Maja, For the record, I went ahead and moved my own post.
  15. I will go ahead and move mine over too, though I agree completely with Kristine about the self control/impulse control. I know it has been said before, but "herding" other dogs is being obnoxious and rude. It's been said better than this but I didn't want to hijack this thread. As for chasing, have you done or seen lure coursing? I have access to this on a regular basis and my high drive BC, Stella, (a long with the majority of BCs and herding breeds) chase and bite when it moves and when it stops moving, they circle and crouch. They are not herding it and the majority of people who watch the BCs do it automatically say "Look! They are herding it!!". They are trying to chase, bite, and "kill" the lure. The whole point of this "sport" is to tap into the dogs prey drive. Even my low drive girl, who would rather sit on the couch all day than play with toys or chase things in the yard, gets worked up over the lure. FWIW Stella is very calm and biddable on stock. I can also have her (and all my dogs) off leash with stock, lure coursing, agility, Frisbee, small animals and know that they understand the boundaries and expectations. When my friends and I get together, a total of 18-25 dogs (a good majority BCs), none of us tolerate "herding" or showing any annoying "working" tendencies. It's obnoxious. All the dogs understand this and we rarely have issues. Note: This didn't happen overnight. ETA: When I got Stella back in February, she had little to no impulse control. She would bark/scream and be obnoxious in agility class, she would lunge and bite the leash if she saw other dogs running after toys or doing some activity she was not doing, she would focus and "work" other dogs....the list went on. Since then I've done months of CU and her impulse control has gotten much better so that I can trust her off leash in those situations now. But we are by no means done and are no where near fixed.
  16. Nice! I really want to try this method on my next dog. I've used channels with mine and they have a pretty good understanding of entries and have consistent footwork. I do like how the WAM and Channels teach the footwork...my dogs, however, relied on that first pole being semi off-set when they started out on WAMs. Once I switched to channels they got it instantly. Great job
  17. I second the comment about running a dog in a lower height to start out. Last year I started my golden girl right at 15 mos (ACK) but jumped her in Preferred for almost a year. This year she is back in the baby classes but jumping her "real" height. She now has the speed and confidence to jump her real height and keep all the bars up -- a plus! We will start doing some USDAA now that she is more comfortable with the bigger height (she jumps 24" in ACK). Stella had her first run this morning and she measured in at 19" at 18 mos so I have no issues jumping her at 20".
  18. That was a good run! I agree with what Karissa said. Some dogs are more motivated when the handler runs with them, creating a type of race. One of my girls was like that for the longest time, and still is to some degree. If I sped up she would start to rush and was clearly uncomfortable. After her summer break, she is now zooming ahead of me. I can't say she wasn't confident before, but I definitely feel she has "come into her own". I am excited for the upcoming trialing season. I spend half the time laughing at how goofy and happy she is. I'd trade in those laughs for a Q any day. This weekend I am running my newest addition -- our goals for her first trial are: 1. Hold our start-line stay 2. Get our contacts Keeping the bars up and getting the weaves the first time (both of which she does in class and at run-thrus) are going to be an added bonus. I don't care about the Q's -- I just care about making this first experience a good one for her. If she breaks her stay on the table when I lead out, big deal! I'd rather go put her back on now than have table issues later on down the road. The same goes for everything else. I am looking at this trial as a "what do we need to be working on". I hope we make tons of mistakes as when we are in class we never have issues with any of the Advanced/Excellent courses. There's nothing like running a babydog -- they grow up way to fast. Enjoy it and have fun!
  19. Regarding the treat on the target plate, I actually encourage students when training alone to use a Tupperware container. So your dog still can focus on there being a reward, but since the lid is closed, only YOU can reward/jackpot. That way you don't have to worry about them self rewarding themselves And since she runs off with the ball, is she tug motivated?
  20. What is the weave spacing? I know when I trained at home and my weaves were 22" apart and then at trials they started introducing the 24" spacing, it threw some of mine off. Now that mine are 24", there is no issues. Regarding the ball issue, my Stella did get sticky at first when I would bring out her ball. I ended up hiding it on me and if she did a really fast rep, I threw the ball. I immediately put it back up and her next rep would be even faster. If her rep was so-so she got food. She can now work for any toy/treat and rarely gets sticky. I think that Kari will gain speed with more confidence and practice. You can always build a practice set of 6 poles for about $25. I don't glue the base together so that I can easily transport them from different location. Have you tried putting a target down (like Paula suggested)? I found this helped my dogs drive through and keep their focus ahead, instead of looking at me and relying on me being next to them.
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