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Everything posted by Mariji

  1. My first agility dog has very solid 2o2o contacts but the way she does them is extremely hard on her shoulders. I toyed with the idea of teaching RC's. But not many people in my area have them successfully. So I decided to retrain my youngest who at the time had only just started competing and had 2o2o contacts, her contacts were much nicer but because she hadn't had 2o2o contacts for as long I thought she would be the best dog to start with. If it didn't work I wouldn't ruin my older dogs contacts. The younger dog now has a perfect running A-Frame which she never ever misses and a running dog
  2. I honestly do not see how forcing a dog to fetch would even work in the first place. I know if I did that to my dogs they would never think it is fun which defeats the purpose. I would purely use a clicker (as it is my fav method) and shape them to retrieve any object then add a cue and use that cue on live game. There would be a brief confusion period I'm assuming but that wouldn't last long with practice.
  3. There is nothing wrong with toy drive and the same goes for food, even the more "obsessive" toy drive. It will be a fantastic asset in agility. I would try to create interaction in the toy. i.e. try turn the obsessions for say retrieving into tugging. Just anything that involves you a bit more than fetching a ball. Saying that I taught many of my agility obstacles with a tennis ball and it worked just fine. I would play small sessions with your boy who may I say is stunning Encourage him to tug and don't let him circle. Keep working on tricks in small doses as it does help them focus on work
  4. For me I don't use restrained recalls at all. I don't see anything wrong with them but my dogs have a speedy recall anyway and if it isn't I can amp it up without a restrained recall. I was also told to always sound excited but it doesn't work for me. I just ask my dog if she is ready and she will reply, then I know she is. Squealing at her will not do any good. She is a talker and I have learnt to accept that as long as it doesn't interfere with any commands, I just see it as her way of telling me she is rearing to go and for a dog that had motivational issues I am more than happy with that.
  5. I am more than confident to say that had the conditions been like that at any of the venues I compete at it would have been cancelled for sure. We have cancelled trials over much less. I would never run my dog in conditions like that in fear of injury for my dog and myself. Although the video quality was spectacular, you could see every muscle in the dog working. I have never seen agility like that before and it sure puts a new perspective on what my dogs are willing to do for me.
  6. I know I would be annoyed if somebody hit or even attempted to hit my dog regardless of what they were doing. So I don't ever let my dogs get in that situation. You have no need to ask my dogs to sit, back up or get out or even ask them to do any tricks. As far as I am concerned I am the only person that is allowed to ask them to do anything. I am proactive in making sure they don't annoy anyone and there would be no need for any of the above to happen. Saying that I would have quite happily smacked a few dogs across the head because of their obnoxious behaviour, but it isn't usually the dogs
  7. When I geta puppy it sleeps in a cat crate (as my puppies are usually tiny) for the first week on a chair next to my bed. I slowly increase distance away from the bed till the crate is on the ground by the door. Then the crat slowly works its way out the door to the dog room. I have never had a puppy wake me up bar once or twice to go to the toilet. I feed my dogs including adult rescues in their crates so it builds value for their crates and at night they rush to their own crates, I zip em up and leave them till morning. They get let out when I get up regardless of time, and never make a sou
  8. We just got my partners brother to weld them. They didn't need to be fancy just solid and built to regulation size. I got 2 sets of 3 to make six. And when I was teaching the 2x2 I simply put just 2 poles on each set of 3. Worked just the same.
  9. We built ours and it added up to be alot cheaper than buying them here. We bought galvanised steel from the local hardware cut it up to competition specifications and got them welded. It was the best thing I ever did. As I trained my first dog on PVC poles and it was so difficult as she was forever knocking them over not too mention she also learnt to barge through them.
  10. I have trained all my dogs with 2x2's and wouldn't have it any other way! My first dog could do 12 in a few days but that was because I was so excited and rushed it. But she still is phenomenally fast and has wicked entries. I am currently training my other two and am going alot slower especially with the entries. My puppy is on 4 poles and I am staying there until her entries are unbeatable and she is consistently fast. She is a weave demon and flys through the poles, we did get a bit stuck for a day but she seems to have worked things out and has now got it down pat. My rescue is also learni
  11. I agree with using directionals, I just found I have never needed to use in particular left and rights, don't get me wrong I have trained with them and they work fine. I had toyed with a "flip" cue especially for independent contact obstacles and a fast dog it would be fantastic. But I just don't see the need to a left or right. If I am in the wrong place then I am a bad handler and to fix it I would simply get her attention then redirect her but that rarely happens as I always strive to get to the right place so she has the right information. We do have Gamblers and Snooker but even for that
  12. I know that I don't need them. I disagree with your first statement, if you are consistent with your handling you should be able to direct the dog with just that. Also the general out and here command but the left and right doesn't really need to be used. Perhaps some people don't have a way of handling their dog that is very consistent but I try to maintain a particular method that the dog will always be familiar with and it works at a distance. Change of arm means turn so it makes sense that a straight one means keep going, if your dog can understand that there is no need for a left or right
  13. I hear of people all the time having major issues with their multiple dog house hold. I have had up to 7 dogs in my house of a mixed gender and never had any issues. They all get their space and one on one time and I never have any issues. At the moment I have 3 Females but they are all by luck. I went out looking for a male in a litter picked a puppy and forgot to ask her gender, needless to say I didn't get what I went for but I'd never change it. My next puppy just picked her again before I knew her gender, and the last dog is a rescue I picked up and she is also a girl by chance. One day I
  14. I suppose it is different for everyone but you will be surprised how hard it is to get a dog to stop barking. In many cases they are the very high drive dogs. In my case it has been months of me trying to build drive so I let the barking happen if it means she is motivated I seriously am happy to let her bark incessantly. Which is a big statement for me as my dogs are not allowed to bark at home, not even one warning bark, zip nada nothing. Luckily my dog will only bark/whine /every noise in between when training or shaping a new behaviour. She is dead silent while running a course except for
  15. I think a JRT is a fantastic idea! They are beautiful and intelligent little dogs and would get along with a Border Collie just fine. They are both so similar so would burn each other out. They are very very high energy so will need alot of stimulating just the same as a Border Collie. My sister has one and she is extremely intelligent and willing to please. She is very high drive and can be quite motion sensitive so needs all the same training as you older dog to keep them focused on you and not on their surroundings so much. A JRT would be in my next top picks of dogs. I think if it grows u
  16. Generally speaking if you have to use a directional cue in particularly left or right then you are probably not where you are supposed to be to tell your dog where to go. I have taught directionals but don't use them on course. It is simply my dogs left and right. Of course I have a "Go On' command but rarely use that either. I find just well excuted handling should be all you need. I am of course no brilliant handler and am still learning alot but I try to make sure my handling is correct which is difficult if you are running a really fast dog. I never say anything to my dog on course and
  17. I think a huge part of it is not rewarding ahead. You don't want to indirectly teach you dog to check back at you constantly. Always reward ahead that would be a good start. My dog when we first learnt her contact she would hit the bottom and go into her 2o2o but like you say if I was away either behind or laterally she would curl around and have her feet off the side whilst still maintaining the general position it was straight. So I went back to re clicker train the position and clicking for when her feet hit the ground and she didn't move them. So she learnt the second her feet hit the grou
  18. I am a complete shaping nutter and use it for everything. I see in my students that it is one of the hardest thigns to do is teach a dog to offer behaviours. Dogs natural shape in their environment so it is a learnt thing to offer nothing to their owner when learning something new. You just need to show him it is ok to move around and offer behaviours. I would start with some serious prompting. Throw treats on the bed and once they start sniffing it click and give more. Perhaps try to teach a nose touch to a piece of card, try shaping that with some prompting by moving it around to get them to
  19. I don't know about using those sorts of gadgets but what I would suggest if you aren't already is just rewarding forward. Throw the reward ahead of him before he looks at you. That to me should cause the dog to be looking ahead for its reward no matter where you are. Perhaps even add a jump or table after the contact so he has something to look forward to if he already knows how to do the contact and if it is all about just changing your position then anything that would keep him moving forward would help. But if it was my dogs doing that I would just throw the food ahead and they would ev
  20. I thoroughly agree! At the clubs I have trained at I was constantly told to be louder and excite, even squeal. I don't say anything except for the occassional obstacle command even then if I am doing my job right I should know where she is going. Myla just recently received her first title and and the judge commented on how silent my run was but that it was fantastic because I was in all the right places to direct my girl around the course fast and clear. If I get loud and say unneccessary things she isn't focusing on what she is doing, she is focusing more on all the stuff I'm saying. Maybe f
  21. This is just me personally but if you gave him a quick brush over everyday then there shouldn't be any reason for there to be mats as such. Knots I could understand but matting shouldn't develop in a day. My dog are thick coated all over but they do have thick long tails and feathers but a quick 30 sec brush everyday and taking the burrs out to stop their fur tangling is all they need. One of my dogs is coarse haired, the other fine and thin. You could train him to stand still and put up with it. I just expect from my dogs even when they are puppies that they let me do it. They don't get to go
  22. I have seen some real horror stories at the park. My number one worst had to be a couple of boys who brought down their Labradoodle and little Shih Tzu. Sure they were too young to have been dropped off with two dogs but the dogs were fantastic and the boys had great control over them. A lady comes in with her what looked like a Dali X it ran straight for the Shih Tzu which was completely minding it's own business and attacked it. The lady didn't take a second glance and I had to run over and separate them. the poor boy was in tears as his dog was screaming at the top of it's lungs and limping
  23. Your routine sounds fantastic. As long as you mix it up and keept them short I see nothing wrong with a couple of short sessions a day. I would do a bit of agility with my girls everyday for 5 mins maybe a couple of times a day if we are doing something new. Right now I am doing Weave Poles with Seek so we do it just once or twice a day for about 5 minutes. I am shaping tricks with Myla so we do a 5 minutes session once a day with some frisbee practice and core fitness (she is on rest break from possible injury) and I am teaching tricks with some contact work with my puppy Echo. I train once a
  24. That is fantastic Root Beer! In essence it is what I did with my girlie. Made it ultra fun, added more games and treats and did each obstacle on it own to build up that value. You explained just how I want too, but I am terrible at explaining thing, I would highly recommend trying to build that value back up slowly. It really does work.
  25. I know exactly what you mean. We have a few dogs at our club like that. People marvel at the drive but don't realise that all that drive makes the control part hard. First I wouldn't tug with her, I have only ever seen that fuel the fire and psych them up even more. Food is generally more demotivating, although I can argue that point with my dogs, in high drive dogs you'll find that tugging just sets them into a frenzy. I would only ask for calm behaviours, whatever your criteria is you'll get. She shouldn't be allowed to play agility if she's clawing on the end of her leash, screamin
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