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About pammyd

  • Birthday 01/16/1974

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    Glasgow Scotland

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  1. I havent had the time to train RC yet - mibby with my next dog But If I was doing it with ST method I would be faiding out the lure of the ball being chucked before I started raising the plank Getting full speed tossing the ball Then delay the chucking of the ball - so the dog runs the plank knowing the ball is comming but it dosent happen till he has done it at full speed Then once you have that raising the plank All I have read on it from ST she says HER dogs know the difference between playing with the toy or getting clicked and playing But if in your case getting the ball is more reinforcing than the tuggy game then he dosent have to think too much about what is getting him the extra tuggy game because he always gets the best reinforcer
  2. although i am totaly pro neutering i wouldnt use it as a behavior fix if a dog is being aggressive because of fear removing his hormones can make him less confident and more aggressive or if he has already learnt aggression as a habit then training is needed rather than surgery if he is frustraied and wants to play neutering will do nothing too many variables - as the others said we need details
  3. Good on you, she is a pretty thing but looks so scared in the photos Not much to add that hasnt already been covered better by others Take it as slow as she needs, let her pick the pace. and keep us updated lots of fotos
  4. He looks like such a lovely happy chap. I hope it all works out
  5. Thank you guys Yes sorry I didnt realise the link would post the video - I believe if you wait till the end then you can click on it to go to you tube - and yes you have to be signed in to like it Thank you all so much tho I really appreciate it
  6. I know there are loads of you here who could do this way better than me but not an expert at the clicker yet But can I ask you all a big favour Its for the Slvia Trkmans competition I have made this little video of my dogs latest trick Please can you just click like the most likes wins one of her training videos Thankyou in advance
  7. aww that is really touching
  8. I had this with my rescue too The first thing I did with zero tolerance for fight - practice makes perfect and if you let them practice fighting they will get good at it I took a step back and kept the dogs seperate more, but did alot of lead walking together Only had them out together when I could supervise fully and ANY posturing, bullying, resource guarding, resource stealing, hard eyes, or just a feeling of tension in the air and the offender got a time out (I kept a house line on Mia and actually she was small enough that I could just pick her up and bundle her into her crate) I also spent alot of time training them around each other - clicking Mia for watching me patting Ben, rewarding one for me feeding the other (her food agression was huge but I rewarded her as I was giving Ben a treat, then I waited a fraction of a sec, then longer and longer until I could give Ben a load of treats while she sat happily tail wagging knowing Ben getting treats ment she would get treats also teaching a positive interuptor and a instant 'bed' command so I could distract her before things escalated Hope that helps a little and you get ontop of this quick for what its worth my two totaly adore each other now, they can eat treats scattered on the ground together
  9. Hi there, as others have said it is a tough nut to crack One thing that will help alot - but difficult to do I know - try and keep her away from cars for a week or two - if she is OK IN the car then drive here somewhere a long way from cars This will let her stress levels drop and start to break the habit also If you can work on getting her really into chasing something like a ball in this time?? This kind on manic behaviour can kinda be stress releif for a dog, they NEED to chase something - better something you have control over Then work on the car thing I would say keep her further away from cars and when she sees one in the distance, when she is aware but not flipping out ask her for the alternative behaviour and then reward lots (with something really yummy ) and walk away Try not to get her to the stage where she is flipping out - it is unlikely she is able to learn anything at this point - she is just reinforcing the habit You will find you can close the distance slowly, and she should start to look to you when she sees the car - because she knows something nice is about to happen COntrol unleashed is great too - I 2nd that - is the group running again? GREAT!
  10. Aww thankyou good to be back. Guess I should stick up some new fotso of the hooligan pair
  11. My boy Ben was just the same. Even now he wont eat if anyone is in the same room as him - but he will sometimes bring big chunks of food into the room where I am once I have left him to eat and yup before raw people commented on how skinny he was, last week my mum pointed out that he is getting a leetle chubby - but easy to fix
  12. He is lovely The colours and coat and ears and everything could easily be a pure BC But from the fotos I would guess at a cross He actually looks very like my friends collie cross basenji (who I cant fornd fotos of at the moment)
  13. Well done both of you Lovely way to end his 'live' compeating
  14. Lots of good ideas here Just to confuse you more here is how I taught it I free shaped my dogs to go to a mat - as in the 'go to your place' CU exercise. I made being on the matt vv rewarding so the dog had a happy race to the mat and a rock solid stay on the matt I then put that on command only so the dog only went to the matt on command and could recal past the matt when needed Then I used a different matt (dont think it mattered but it mattered to me) stood infront of the dog, called him too me and asked for a down on the matt - and rewarded like crazy on the matt repeate, taking tiny steps back Because the dog has already learnt to work away from you and down away from you on an object then this is fairly easy for them I also mixed it up so that sometimes I called them all the way to me, sometimes downed on the mat then I reduced the distance slightly and removed the mat for 1 rep - but the area on the floor was the same, they dog tends to be fooled into dropping without the mat - to a MAJOR reward, with my dogs I had to put the mat back several times and just do the odd 'trick' one with no matt there till they got the hang of it Then take the matt on the move to different locations, and phase it out the same way depending on the dog 5 or 10 locations and they will figure out the down means drop where you are
  15. I think this is the important point You have a smart dog who has learnt a behaviour chain He dosent understand that the position of walking by your side is what is wanted - he is getting rewarded for going to the end of the lead and then returning to you Personaly I would say be far far more rewarding in the right place reward him before he gets the chance to move away from where you want him to Yes he will prob be looking up at you to start with, but what you can do, once he understands the position is wait till he looks away from you and reward then reward what you want, reward 100 times more than you think you need to and he will v quickly learn that being in the 'correct' position is v fun and rewarding and you will actually be able to phase out the treats faster Especially with a smart dog you get what you reward for, if he has got to the end of the lead then you have lost his attention. take the lead off so you are not relying on it as a failsafe and you have to keep his focus (if it is legal and safe to do that)
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