Mary&Sully Posted September 11, 2011 Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 I am dreadfully embarrassed and need some advice!! Sully and I had our first agility class at our new training facility the other night. Unfortunately, a few days prior he had cut his paw pretty badly and so I figured we would be sitting out and watching because he refused to put any weight on that leg. However, once we got there he was magically 'healed' and so I decided to participate with my pup who hadn't been exercised in a few days (recipe for disaster). He did wonderfully at first, but then another dog arrived who had a wonderful squeaky toy that was being thrown and shaken while we were running in tandem. Sully veers away from me mid-sequence, steals the squeaky toy, and runs at large in the facility for 3 minutes (while I am attempting to both catch him and die from mortification). For anyone who is wondering, the dog who had his toy stolen completed his sequence sans toy during the mayhem. Wonderful. After Sully got his zoomies out, I had to be extremely careful and keep his lead on because of that darn toy. While I know a big part of this was the lack of exercise, I also couldn't help but notice how the other border collies had almost an unblinking focus on their handlers. I was wondering if you all know of any games or training that I could do with him to help him focus on me. He also went deaf during the zoomies and though he is pretty good at a recall, had absolutely no intentions of being contained. My training facility has a two offense rule, if he runs at large again he will not be able to be off-leash. I did have a tug toy and treats with me, but he was uninterested in anything other than the other dog's toys. I am super embarrassed to say the least. This is my first agility dog, my first bc mix, and unfortunately I am realizing that my previous training courses were at sub-par facilities and my foundation is shaky. I am in a class where the students are the instructors of other classes and everyone has competed with their other dogs and I know that my presence could be extremely irritating to them if Sully and I don't improve quickly. So yes, any advice would be amazing. Thank you all so much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rushdoggie Posted September 11, 2011 Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 Control Unleashed has both Look At That which teaches your dog to refocus on you when he sees something that catches his attention, and Give Me a Break which would be perfect for what you are needing now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlasl Posted September 11, 2011 Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 I am not sure I fully understand how this class works, is there more than one dog running in the same place at the same time? At all the facilities I have gone to, each dog runs a sequence at a time, and the dogs waiting their turn are either on lead off to the side, or behind a barrier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Beer Posted September 11, 2011 Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 I second the recommendation for Control Unleashed. Aside from the fact that it can help with the zoomies, it is a fantastic foundation program for any performance dog to build focus, drive, self control, confidence, or whatever the dog needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mary&Sully Posted September 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 I am not sure I fully understand how this class works, is there more than one dog running in the same place at the same time? At all the facilities I have gone to, each dog runs a sequence at a time, and the dogs waiting their turn are either on lead off to the side, or behind a barrier. There are stations and at this moment, three dogs were running parallel to one another with different obstacles (we had the chute, the dog next to us had a few jumps and then the table, and the third had the long jump). There wasn't a divider, and only about 6 ft of separation. At our past training facility, we took turns and when we waited the dogs were behind a barrier and so this was a little shock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Beer Posted September 11, 2011 Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 There are stations and at this moment, three dogs were running parallel to one another with different obstacles (we had the chute, the dog next to us had a few jumps and then the table, and the third had the long jump). There wasn't a divider, and only about 6 ft of separation. At our past training facility, we took turns and when we waited the dogs were behind a barrier and so this was a little shock. Could you ask the instructor to have your dog take turns at stations while the person with the squeaky toy is not on the floor? Or maybe you could request a divider? At the facility where I train, everyone works together to make it possible for each dog to be successful. Sometimes we put up dividers, sometimes we group certain dogs on the floor together, or avoid putting other dogs on the floor together. Especially when the dogs are first learning and they might need some extra help with focus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligande Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 Do not be embarresed, stuff happens. I know my older dog who is moderately reactive would have a very hard time staying focused in a class like you have described. Yet we can compete in trials, and he is in elite in some classes, and have managed to run in 2 ring trials. our first beginner class had dogs working together on leash, but since then one dog at a time. Truthfully I think my young dog who is extremely handler focused, and has never had the zoomies etc would have struggled with the set-up you have described, especially adding the squeaky ball. Control unleashed is a great resource, for teaching focus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlasl Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 Is this your only choice for classes, that sounds like a horrible situation for many dogs. Yes you want your dog to focus on you no matter what, but that just sounds like setting a dog up for failure. I have a very focused dog, but I think even she would have trouble in that situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcv-border Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 I agree with Carla. I think that the set-up was untenable for 'beginning' dogs. (I am guessing from your post that this was an intro- or foundation-type of class.) I have been in a couple of classes with 2 or more dogs running an obstacle at the same time, but the separation was more like 40 or 50 feet. But your problem is the ridiculous two-offense rule. Your dog was not running around and being aggressive to other dogs. It just had excitement zoomies. Most places would be enlightened enough to recognize that and just go on - realizing that most owners are embarassed by their dog's behavior. I noticed your location. Is College Park the city in MD that I read about that is considering passing dog-unfriendly legislation? I forgot what it was and where I read it. Jovi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rave Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 My suggestion would be finding a good foundation class where you can work on simple basic foundation behaviors in groups with distractions. Foundation classes are not just about obstacles, but about getting your dog to work with you amidst distractions. I would also suggest talking with the instructor to see what s/he recommends. At the very least, ask to be able to work alone until you work through focus issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SecretBC Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 But your problem is the ridiculous two-offense rule. Your dog was not running around and being aggressive to other dogs. It just had excitement zoomies. Most places would be enlightened enough to recognize that and just go on - realizing that most owners are embarassed by their dog's behavior. Both as an instructor and a student, I have to say I kind of appreciate the two offense rule. It wastes a ridiculous amount of time when one (or more) students do not have sufficient control over their dog. Classes are only so long and there is a lot to pack into them. Students get upset when that time is monopolized by one dog for WHATEVER reason. In lower level classes it is quite common to divide the group into stations to accomplish the most amount of training. It is not the end of the world to keep a tab leash on your dog if you are unsure of their distraction level. The squeaky toy incident is unfortunate (and that is why they are banished from trial grounds!), but we do tell people to bring what motivates your dog the most. Perhaps you need to bring a squeaky toy next time? Or at least something your dog values more than a tug rope or the treats you brought. Ultimately I question your comfort level in this group. It's obvious that you feel like you don't belong. If you are so uncomfortable, are you really going to be able to train your dog? Or are you constantly going to be worried and second-guessing yourself? Comparing yourself to the other students & their dogs? Worrying that they think you are holding the class back? Luke (my first agility dog) got the zoomies in our second or third beginner agility class. I admit I thought it was funny and I laughed, but my instructor set me straight on all the reasons why that behavior is absolutely not permitted. It didn't happen again. Life goes on. All dogs have brain farts (as do the handlers) -- The only time it's a problem is when it becomes chronic. So just do your best to prevent it from happening again. If need be, use a leash for the station exercises and try letting him off leash if/when the dogs get a chance to piece things together solo. But if this group is so stressful for you, it really wouldn't hurt to find a class that makes you feel more comfortable. Since you admit you have some gaps in your foundation training, it really wouldn't hurt to start at the beginning with this new training center. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SecretBC Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 An additional note -- If you find you would prefer to stay with this group, you might look into adding a private lesson in addition to the group class each week. This is what I did when I moved Luke into the next level and felt quite unprepared for the challenges we faced. The weekly privates helped us to quickly catch up to where the rest of the group was -- or at least enough to not feel so lost (they were all competing already, we had just completed 7 weeks of beginner agility). You can pack more into a 30 minute private lesson than you can in four weeks of group classes. And with a greater understanding of agility in general, you may find your dog has an easier job of focusing in the group. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcv-border Posted September 12, 2011 Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 Both as an instructor and a student, I have to say I kind of appreciate the two offense rule. It wastes a ridiculous amount of time when one (or more) students do not have sufficient control over their dog. Classes are only so long and there is a lot to pack into them. Students get upset when that time is monopolized by one dog for WHATEVER reason. In lower level classes it is quite common to divide the group into stations to accomplish the most amount of training. It is not the end of the world to keep a tab leash on your dog if you are unsure of their distraction level. The squeaky toy incident is unfortunate (and that is why they are banished from trial grounds!), but we do tell people to bring what motivates your dog the most. Perhaps you need to bring a squeaky toy next time? Or at least something your dog values more than a tug rope or the treats you brought. Ultimately I question your comfort level in this group. It's obvious that you feel like you don't belong. If you are so uncomfortable, are you really going to be able to train your dog? Or are you constantly going to be worried and second-guessing yourself? Comparing yourself to the other students & their dogs? Worrying that they think you are holding the class back? Luke (my first agility dog) got the zoomies in our second or third beginner agility class. I admit I thought it was funny and I laughed, but my instructor set me straight on all the reasons why that behavior is absolutely not permitted. It didn't happen again. Life goes on. All dogs have brain farts (as do the handlers) -- The only time it's a problem is when it becomes chronic. So just do your best to prevent it from happening again. If need be, use a leash for the station exercises and try letting him off leash if/when the dogs get a chance to piece things together solo. But if this group is so stressful for you, it really wouldn't hurt to find a class that makes you feel more comfortable. Since you admit you have some gaps in your foundation training, it really wouldn't hurt to start at the beginning with this new training center. I think you make very good points i.e. work on distraction training, keep a leash on the dog until you are sure he is more focused, add private lessons (some areas, like where I live, may not have that option) or move to another (more basic) foundation class (again, sometimes not an option when not available). But I still do not like the 2-offense rule. I don't think it allows for instructor discretion on the seriousness of the offense. Yes, it can be a time suck, but in my beginner agillity class where all the dogs did the obstacles on lightweight long lines, the zooming dog was ignored and the handler had to corral her/his dog while the class went on plus they lost their time on the obstacle. As you say, there is a lot to pack into a class and other students don't want to waste their time. The instructor did have a talk with the offender after class to give helpful suggestions, and most people wised up pretty fast. The people who didn't 'get with the program' usually did not come back for the next 8-week session as they understood that their dog was not welcome for the repeated misbehavior. My dog and I have been the target of a somewhat aggressive Doberman in class (luckily nothing bad happened) so I differentiate between harmless zoomies vs. dogs running aggressively at other dogs. Jovi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mary&Sully Posted September 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 Thanks everyone for your advice. We are currently taking two classes, a Handling I (which is where we had the issue) and a Contacts and Weaves class. We had our first C&W class last night, and I made sure Sully was exercised beforehand. He did much better. We are still in the bottom of the class, but as I have found out the majority of the students are taking these combination of classes for the second or third time (sometime more!). The instructors were very nice last night and the C&W group was wonderfully welcoming of us. SecretBC - I totally understand your points, and I understand the reasoning of the two offense rule. I was more upset that he had misbehaved and embarrassed at this than mad about the two offense rule. We have some borderline aggressive dogs, and this is for the safety of everyone. I have put a tab on him and I run him on a leash when at all possible. One problem I have is that he is not very toy-motivated. With the help of some of the instructors, we have come up with some ideas to work with him and get him interested in tugging with me. I actually had gone and bought the squeaky toy he had issues with, and after a minute he could have cared less about it. He is food motivated, but sometimes those other dogs' toys are just so much more interesting! One of the instructors (she is one of the teachers in both classes actually) has offered to meet with me after class one day to work one on one with Sully and I. I am really pleased and touched that she is making this effort to help us catch up. I am afraid of monopolizing the instructors attention, so I should be sure to be as independent as possible when I can be. Carlasl - To be honest, I am super pleased with the instructors. I am hoping with some extra focus and confidence training Sully will learn to 'deal' with the distractions. If we can do so, I think this would be a phenomenal exercise in self control for him. If not and we continue to be a distraction, I will need to remove myself from the class until he can. Root Beer - I have read Control Unleashed and went back to look at those specific games. I like them, I like the idea and principles behind them. I will need to start working on these with Sully. Maybe it's time to load that darn clicker!! We will attend the next class and see how we're doing. If needbe, Sully and I can always take the 'puppy class' again. The instructors have been very nice and I am sure will kindly suggest that I move down if they think it would be beneficial (they teach those classes too!). Thanks again everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serena+Eluane B.C. Posted September 16, 2011 Report Share Posted September 16, 2011 I dunno, I really! dislike letting all the dogs have a run for it. I'm like Carla in that I don't this is a good scenario at all! I've seen this done before ; you really can't get ideal advanced training with this sort of helter skelter situation and arrangement. Competing seriously needs a one-on-one situation, every dog and handler having focused time from their instructor. Mary's current class is more for an agility-just-for-fun scene, but I feel it becomes a waste of time and money to be honest. Skilled and professional trainers have a waiting area for all the dogs. And dogs must not have aggressive issues or they are OUT! But zoomies are corrected within the agility area, and the trainer works one-on-one with the handler and the dog, explaining and guiding very carefullly. Every dog gets their turn in line and when their time is up or if they are outta-control with the zoomies, their turn is likewise up. This is usually enough of a "punishment" for a border being deprived of the "action" lol! so they usually learn pretty quick that if they don't listen, they lose their turn, lol! And it also motivates their handler in being sure they are really ready for agility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSnappy Posted September 17, 2011 Report Share Posted September 17, 2011 This conversation makes me love my classes even more. There's never more than 5 of us in a class at any given time, we never run dogs at the same time unless we are divided into height divisions to practice gambles as a warm up, and The Sadist would NEVER allow another student's dog to go mental on a squeaky toy when someone else was running. That's just a ridiculous distraction - it's not like squeaky toys (or any toys) are allowed in the ring, so why would that distraction even be necessary to work through? I find too many instructors allow too many dogs in a class, which causes a lot of strife for everyone concerned about getting enough time to work. Our classes are very supportive - one particular mini aussie has a serious hate on for Dexter (who bless his heart completely ignores the little turd even when he's trying to rip hair out of his scruff) and they stand up to block Dex from view when it's that dog's turn to run the course. If we had a two-infraction rule, he'd be long gone and that's not fair. He's just working through some stuff ;-) Wish he wouldn't take it out on Dex, but whatevs. RDM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlasl Posted September 17, 2011 Report Share Posted September 17, 2011 speaking of squeaky toy distractions, I was at a trial a couple of weeks ago, and a very experienced competitor and dog were in lining up for their run and someone in the crating area was squeaking a toy and it was distracting for the dog waiting to run and the handler said something about it and the judge asked that the squeaky toy be silenced. Thought that was fantastic, there are some things dogs just shouldn't have to deal with...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mum24dog Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 a very experienced competitor and dog were in lining up for their run and someone in the crating area was squeaking a toy and it was distracting for the dog waiting to run I'd agree with that. I had to ask a handler to stop her dog squeaking its toy in the queue recently as my daughter's Grade 7 dog (top grade here) was showing an unhealthy interest. It's just common courtesy not to do it. Funnily enough though, he doesn't bother about dogs squeaking at training because he's used to them. It's unidentified squeaks that disturb him. Running more than one dog at a time in class here in the UK is not uncommon or a particular problem for most dogs. In our club we do it all the time and we have a lot of very successful members of all grades, but our competitive scene is different from yours. Outdoors we can have 10+ rings running at once, seperated only by a rope and a few yards, so if a dog can't cope with working while others are running in the vicinity it is not going to do well in competition. Training a dog to work while another dog is running in close proximity prepares it well for the competition conditions it will meet. Indoors the rings are next to each other, normally divided by a light mesh fence. Just a different perspective. Our dogs have to be able to cope with lots of other dogs nearby both in and out of the ring. I'm sure we'd all love 1-1 training but that's for those who can afford it. And very small classes don't pay the overheads unless we charge so much that it will price out a heck of a lot of people who could be very good club members in terms of helping out and/or who might have very promising dogs. As it is our training is heavily subsided from the money we make from running our shows. Not only that, suitable training facilities are hard to find in our crowded island and we have to make do with what space we have, not what we would like. We could let our waiting list run on and on to a couple of years or more while only existing members with new dogs were allowed to start (as one local club does) but we believe in giving everyone a chance. It's all a question of striking the right balance and we make it work. We are only a smallish volunteer based club but we have an excellent record of producing dogs that are successful in competition even without a selection or assessment procedure for new applicants. This lack of selection inevitably means that we get dogs with issues of one sort or another that have to be worked through but we usually get there in the end. Having said that, my daughter's BC would never have coped with a class situation initially. He would have been a complete liability, but she was able to start his training on her own away from distractions and by the time she introduced him to classes he was so fixated on the work he could be managed. So communal training isn't for every dog (or every handler). It's not for my friend's sprollie that I'm half heartedly trying to train at present. I must find time to train her apart from the others. My original reaction to the 2 strikes and you're back on lead rule was to think that the club was unfriendly and intolerant, but there is a very good reason for not allowing a dog to practise unwanted behaviour repeatedly - it's harder to break the habit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serena+Eluane B.C. Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 What I found Mum24dog, is that once a dog receives its one-on-one training, that dog will do amazing with focus, especially B.Cs. While training at a facility or club, barking at the sidelines from other dogs, squeakers, talking, dropped treats etc. at the waiting area, lol! all these give plenty of distractions to help train our B.Cs not to get distracted.... Mum24dog, the primary difference between UK agility and U.S. agility is how extremely expensive!!!! U.S. dog agility is. In order to maximize quality time, one-on-one time per instructor is always the ideal for the best and fastest time to develop a dog's agility potential. Those who want just agility-for-fun are plenty welcome to do the free-for-all, but it takes triple the effort and time to train well. Also Americans do not! have the close, relaxed laidback wonderful atmosphere in the U.K. Very few clubs, very few competitions available compared to the U.K. Many folks have absolutely no backyard facility, their only! chance to practice agility is at their club! So that is why one-on-one training is so crucial. Many of my close friends are from the U.K. and boy, what a huge difference in surroundings, availability to practice, friends to carpool with, camp out together, cross-train with etc. etc. It's a whole different ballgame in the U.S. for many Americans. And Dog agility in the U.S. breaks the piggy bank for many of us. Anyway, point is that one can learn as much as 10x faster with individualized one-on-one training....Every handler, every dog is gonna be unique, that is why one-on-one training has the most value. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mum24dog Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 I'm sure you're right Serena. It's always interesting to compare differences. I can well understand that there is more pressure to get the most you can for your money if your training is expensive and also for a dog not to be entered in a trial if there isn't a good chance of a respectable performance if entry fees are high and accessible trials few and far between. Yes, most of us here are relaxed about the whole business - we can afford to be. It's only agility after all, not life or death. And each run is only as important as the handler wants it to be - no Qs to work for. It's not that I believe your system or ours is better, but the way they operate must have some effect on the way participants approach the sport. Those who want just agility-for-fun are plenty welcome to do the free-for-all, but it takes triple the effort and time to train well. It would be wrong to assume that the only alternative to 1-1 training is a "free for all". Whilst we have more than one dog running at a time, the class is still structured. But I can't dispute that progress can be quicker with individual instruction. The main component of success is how much extra-curricular work the handler is prepared to put in and there is so much that can be done without any equipment at all. And some will want to pay for additional individual tuition from someone, others will have lives that make it less likely that they will. Pam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Beer Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 It's only agility after all, not life or death. And here Agility is a matter of life and death. If you fail to qualify, the consequences are most dire and permanent. :P Seriously, this is true here, as well, even with Q's on the line. And each run is only as important as the handler wants it to be - no Qs to work for. If I must NQ, Agility is the most fun sport to NQ in. At least that's my opinion. I got to run with my dog, we got to have a great time, and it's all good. I treasure my NQ runs as much as my Q runs. Every one was a time that I got to run with my dog. If I ever lose that, it's time for me to walk away. There are people who are super competitive and for them nothing less than a Q will do. But you know, the majority of people that I know in Agility aren't like that. Most really are looking to have a good time with their dogs. Q's are wonderful icing on the cake. As far as one on one training vs. group, I think it depends on the dog, the handler, and the circumstances. Some handlers need one on one instruction or they will never get the idea. Some dogs need it. I work with a handler whose dog will probably never be able to be in a group class. But they enjoy Agility. So, why not? Now with the VALOR Project available to dogs who can't handle being at trails, private instruction makes even more sense for some. I prefer a group class for myself, so I can work on focus. But I'm training my third Agility dog. I know what I'm doing as far as that goes. I'll speak up if I need any special accommodation for a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maralynn Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 Reading through this again and I'm wondering - what type of work do you do with Sully to build drive and focus? We often don't think of this until we get to the training environment, but doing it bit by bit, every day in a variety of situations will help a great deal at your weekly classes. Make it a point of taking him to 6-8 places during the week and doing *short* (like starting out at 30 seconds) focus/motivation sessions. Start off simple - in your living room, yard, driveway and once he is ready and eager to play there, move to other locations - a public park, quiet parking lot, neighborhood sidewalks, etc. Since he likes food, you can the food rewards into a game to focus and motivation - like the . It's fun for the dog, it builds interest/drive for the food and it teaches you dog to really engage with you. ETA - Kipp and Kenzi did not come with the famous BC focus installed and ready to go. Kipp was ADD and Kenzi was a happy spaz. Kenzi will be 3 y/o in December and it feels like she is finally getting some nice Border Collie focus! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Beer Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 Since he likes food, you can the food rewards into a game to focus and motivation - like the . It's fun for the dog, it builds interest/drive for the food and it teaches you dog to really engage with you. CU Games can be helpful, too. Whiplash Turns, the LAT Game, Mat work, and Give Me a Break. You can build the Give Me a Break game to a point where you can't get rid of your dog for love or money!! I'm in the process of starting to work with Tessa in my yard, which is very distracting. There are bunny scents, and the dog next door barking, and that is where she usually plays with Dean. When I start a training session out there, we play GMAB until she is glued to me. If I need to, I break off and do it periodically throughout the session. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maralynn Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 Absolutely, but they'd already been mentioned so I figured that I'd throw another idea out there since I've found that different methods sometimes work better/worse for different people and it's nice to have plenty of good ideas to try. One thing I really like about the food chasing method is that it builds drive and excitement for the reward in a way that is very simple for the handler to figure out. It's very basic, it works really well and it makes the reward extremely rewarding - you're not giving the dog a reward, they get to chase and catch their reward and the chase builds interest. You can use that method for a dog that is ho-hum about rewards to a dog that is - "I want it, I want it, I want it". Then you can use that new found desire in training and rewarding in other contexts. It's pretty much motivational schutzhund drive building except that it uses food instead of a toy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Root Beer Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 Absolutely, but they'd already been mentioned so I figured that I'd throw another idea out there since I've found that different methods sometimes work better/worse for different people and it's nice to have plenty of good ideas to try. True. That's why I wanted to give a little more detail, especially about GMAB. It is one game that tends to get overlooked and it can work like magic for a lot of dogs. In fact, I often use tossing treats as the "break" for GMAB. I have a "Go - Getit!" cue that I teach that means that I'm tossing a treat for the dog to chase. If the dog is getting distracted and I know the dog might hyperfocus if I just release the dog to a break, I might use my quick release and then "Go-Getit!" and throw the treat, then click/treat when the dog offers focus back to me. I'll do that a couple of times, then give a quick release and no "Go-Getit!" and see if the dog is focused, or still distracted. I know that you know this, but to the OP, once you get some of these focus games going, you can often combine them to pack an extra punch, so to speak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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