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gcv-border

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About gcv-border

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  1. From a quick look at the link, IMHO this 'sheepballs' thing is more about training the dog to play with the largish ball in a specific way, than the ball. Cynically, I think it is just marketing to sell the ball. I don't see why several other types of balls couldn't be substituted (i.e. jolly ball)
  2. Check into the protection used by Flyball competitors. Not only do they protect against injury, but some of them are really cool designs.
  3. Agree with Journey - mindless fetch is not good for your dog. It may , may, tire them physically, but it does nothing to tire the mind and it can lead to injuries. Ask me how I know. Definitely teach your dog to get something and bring it back to your hand. That is a very useful skill. if you want to throw a ball so your dog can run to get it, a somewhat safe way of accomplishing that is to put your dog in a stay next to you, throw the ball into some weeds and release the dog. In this manner, the dog does not mindlessly sprint after a moving ball. He must slow down and find the ball in the wee
  4. Congratulations! All your (you AND Molly) hard work is paying off.
  5. Congratulations to you and Mouche. So much wonderful progress in such a short time. I really can not think of any improvements. Keep up the great work. (As I was reading about her diarrhea, I kept saying to myself - giardia, giardia. I am glad you thought of it.)
  6. Your question was answered above by myself and alligande. Pups can run around by themselves, at their own pace. The problem is with the constant, repetitive impact exercise at the human's pace that is the problem. I do watch out if they are playing with another dog to prevent them from overdoing it. But it sounds like your pup is fine since she is moderating her own activity.
  7. Agree with the 2 posts above. Do not take a 6 month old with you on your runs until their growth plates are closed. For border collies, that is generally believed to be around 14 months, as a conservative estimate. The problem with running with young dogs before the growth plates are closed is that the repetitive action can negatively affect their joints and possibly set them up for injuries and arthritis later in life. This same rule applies to any repetitive motion - like practicing jumping for agility. Casual hiking, even if the dog is free-ranging, is much less strenuous on their join
  8. When I house-train a puppy, I DO rely on confinement (crate, x-pen and/or tethering), IN ADDITION to routinely taking them out at frequent intervals and after eating and playing. And yes, I use the same techniques for an adult foster until they have shown that they are housebroken. I have read that the enzymatic cleaners require a week or two to totally remove the smell. So I would be carefully watching the dog during that period to make sure he doesn't revisit the area.
  9. He may NOT be marking (or he may be), but for any dog (whether they are mine or I am fostering), if they seem fairly house-trained and suddenly start peeing in the house, I immediately bring them to the vet to check for a UTI. Do not wait. UTIs can be very painful, and of course, you don't want to be cleaning up more than you have to. Dogs with UTIs will pee much more frequently than normal. Once a UTI has been ruled out, I would keep him tethered to me inside so I am aware of his 'signals' that he needs to pee. Then run him outside and praise for peeing. So yes, keep him on a leash insid
  10. What a beautiful girlie. She sounds like she will be fine in the long run. She hit the jackpot with you.
  11. Thanks for adopting a rescue dog. Jack is a lucky dog. He sounds like he is doing fine. And he seems to have caught on to your routine quite rapidly. He is comfortable enough with you to want to be with you when appropriate, and then finds his own happy place when he is not 'needed'. Sometimes I think these dogs are part cat when they perch on things or go off to a bed in another room. LOL. Count your lucky stars he doesn't pester you for attention - as can often be the case. He may change a bit more as time passes because one month is not very long for a rescue dog to acclimate to a
  12. I think it would be fine to practice daily, but I would limit it to 2-3 minutes per session. And set it up so she can be as successful as possible. As you probably know, it is always better to have shorter, highly successful practice sessions than longer sessions where she has a low success rate. Some dogs are just very sensitive to slight changes. I have heard of some dogs, when practicing running down the ramp of the dog walk, that just freak out when the one end of the board is raised too much. (Seriously, someone complained that if they raised the one end of the ramp more than 1/4 of
  13. If she was not confident at this stage, I would not have moved her forward to the next stage. How did you define "once it was time to raise the board", if she couldn't do, and was not comfortable doing, the previous step. I like to see 80-90% success rate before challenging with more difficulty. Frustrating, I know, but foundation work is so critical. (I am currently having a problem with one dog's backside approach. After fiddling a bit, I have decided to go all the way back to intro training.)
  14. Happy Birthday Cressa! That looks like an amazing cake. Enjoy.
  15. So sad for your pup. If you think this may be a one time occurrence and may be somewhat short-lived, I think the fastest solution would be to cover the windows so she can not see out. Hopefully, that will produce an almost immediate change once she is convinced that the boogeymen are not longer outside her window. Normally, I would recommend desensitization, etc., but since she is a puppy and she may never see this exact scenario again, it may be easier for everyone if you just managed it (window coverings). If she were to see something similar when she is an adult, she may have mor
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