Dealing with ball agression

[mtnfrank]

Looking for ideas on how best to proceed to diminish ball aggression. Both in the short term and in the long run.

 

Dyson is about 14months old and I adopted him 6 weeks ago. He is a very nice little fellow but...

 

He was always ball possessive and ball focused but things appear to be getting worse:

- initially he was only focused on me and ignoring everything else at the dog park, but starting a couple of weeks ago he'll now abandon his ball and run to someone else playing with their dog and want to run after their ball. If the owner waits for me to retrieve my dog before throwing the ball, he'll get impatient and either start circling or snap at the other dog. No serious fights yet but I don't want to get there.

- if running after his ball (or another dog's ball) and another dog runs after the ball or after him, he'll snap as well (and keep running)

 

We have just started basic obedience and I do plan to start working on some focus exercise (eg Control Unleashed) in the near future.

 

However, what do you think I should do in the mean time:

a) avoid any ball play (and by extension the 'ball' park)

b ) only play ball if he is the only ball playing dog at the park (for example by going off-hours)

c) still go but manage closely.

 

The problem with a) is that on days I am short on time (eg morning before work), fetching is a great way to exercise quickly. He also goes to another dog park at lunch time with the dog walker where he plays great with other dogs, as long as there are no balls!!! But from time to time there will be some left (she takes them away) or someone playing ball with their dog.

 

The problem with b is that he gets excited just getting close to the 'ball park' and also if he gets exposed to balls at lunch time.

 

I've mostly been doing c) at the moment although I've also reduced ball playing to max once a day and have avoided it on some days when there are too many dogs at the park. When he runs over to someone else, I ask them not to throw the ball, I catch him (I leave the leash attached in order to be able to catch him when he gets excited), walk him away. Do some sit, look at me, and other exercise until he focuses back on me and calms down a bit. But then, after a few more throws he'll run back to the other person and potentially be aggressive to their dog. It is also harder to deal with other dogs wanting to follow him while he plays with his ball. In a way I am less concerned about that since the other dog are then 'annoying him' (rather than him annoying them) but still not a desired behavior.

 

I don't tolerate aggression and he gets a very stern 'no' when doing so and gets taken away from the situation. Treats do not work to redirect as the ball is so much more important.

 

In a perfect world he would play nice and be tolerant... perhaps with time? Certainly I don't want it to get any worse!

[rushdoggie]

Does this behavior transfer onto any toy, or just the ball?

[jfaircloth]

IMHO, until you're 100% confident that you can control his behavior off-leash and get him to focus completely on you, you shouldn't be taking him to the dog park at all. You never know if he's someday going to tick off the wrong dog before you can stop him.

 

Since he's so ball obsessed, I would make ball playing a reward for good behavior, and not his sole form of exercise when he's with you. Can you meet up with one or two other dog owners for ball-free play dates in an open field somewhere, instead of the dog park? Can you take him for a run before or after work?

 

It sounds like you're doing all the right things otherwise, but 6 weeks isn't very long and he still has a lot to learn from you and about what's OK and what isn't. I'm sure you'll work through this and he'll do great. I'm also sure that wiser minds on this board will have great advice for you.

 

Best of luck and keep us posted!

[mtnfrank]

Does this behavior transfer onto any toy, or just the ball?

 

Ball only, as far as I know but I wouldn't make the assumption that it is only the ball.

 

He does play with other toys but will abandon them if there is a ball to be seen.

[mtnfrank]

IMHO, until you're 100% confident that you can control his behavior off-leash and get him to focus completely on you, you shouldn't be taking him to the dog park at all. You never know if he's someday going to tick off the wrong dog before you can stop him.

 

Since he's so ball obsessed, I would make ball playing a reward for good behavior, and not his sole form of exercise when he's with you. Can you meet up with one or two other dog owners for ball-free play dates in an open field somewhere, instead of the dog park? Can you take him for a run before or after work?

 

It sounds like you're doing all the right things otherwise, but 6 weeks isn't very long and he still has a lot to learn from you and about what's OK and what isn't. I'm sure you'll work through this and he'll do great. I'm also sure that wiser minds on this board will have great advice for you.

 

Best of luck and keep us posted!

 

It is not his sole form of exercise, not counting training, I've been going on long walks as well on/off leash after work. For example there is a great park I have gone over the last week for hikes and where we meet dogs and he can run-play offleash with minimal chance of ball interaction. That is a great plan from spring-summer, at least for after work, but this time of year darkness comes around 6pm and next month after the time change it will be dark by 430pm so not the best for offleash running (he does have a light, is decent on recall and the park is large but still don't like to let him run too far if I can't see him). With winter coming there will likely be less and less people out with their dogs in that park and it doesn't help for his morning exercise.

 

I can arrange for some one-one play dates but... not everyday! Easier to organize on week-ends... which is when I have more time to go on extended hikes anyways!

 

I may start running with him (4-5miles) and see what happens. But for example, last night I went for a 1hrs30m on-leash walk while doing exercises (loose leash, sit, down) and he was still bouncy inside for a while. Offleash running or fetching really looks needed for him. But maybe onleash running will be good.

 

And yes I realize that 6weeks is very soon, I just don't want bad habits to take root. He is otherwise settling in pretty good. He only eats other people's shoe laces and leaves mine alone

[Liz P]

From what you have described I am not convinced that it is aggression over the ball versus say over excitement or over stimulation, which can trigger nipping/biting in herding breed dogs.

 

I do agree that if you don't have near 100% control over him that he should be off leash at the dog park. It's not fair to the other dogs.

 

Either way, I think you should work on self control and general obedience prior to attempting any ball playing around other dogs. Make sure he understands and obeys lie down, here and leave it even when super excited before attempting any off leash play with other dogs around.

[OurBoys]

From what you have described I am not convinced that it is aggression over the ball versus say over excitement or over stimulation, which can trigger nipping/biting in herding breed dogs.

 

I do agree that if you don't have near 100% control over him that he should be off leash at the dog park. It's not fair to the other dogs.

 

Either way, I think you should work on self control and general obedience prior to attempting any ball playing around other dogs. Make sure he understands and obeys lie down, here and leave it even when super excited before attempting any off leash play with other dogs around.

I agree.

 

I would also teach him the command “Drop It” too. I’m assuming you’re throwing the ball and having him run after it? I could be wrong but if you are starting out playing ball like this, you could be helping his prey drive kick in and with lack of self control…..

 

Once he learns those commands, with no other dogs or balls around, I would bring out 2 balls and teach him to catch them (or play catch if he already knows how). Teach him he has to drop the ball in his mouth before you’ll throw the other one for him to catch. Do you or one of your friends have a torn up squeaky toy? If so, take the squeaky part out and slip it into your pocket. If/when you lose Dyson’s attention, press the squeaky. When you have his attention again, resume playing catch and start teaching him to bring it back to you (if he doesn’t already). When he tries to change the rules of the game, end the game. You + ball = fun and you set the rules.

 

If you continue to take Dyson to the dog park I would leave the park after collecting him when he goes after someone else's ball. It’ll probably take a few times of leaving the dog park but he should eventually learn if he goes after someone else’s ball, park time is over. Again, you + ball = fun and you set the rules (but I would work on getting Dyson solid on his commands before going back).

 

I love the fact my JJ is ball obsessed. Anytime I take him out in public and want/need his undivided attention, I pull the ball out of my purse. No one else in the world exists when I do that.

 

Good luck!

[mtnfrank]

From what you have described I am not convinced that it is aggression over the ball versus say over excitement or over stimulation, which can trigger nipping/biting in herding breed dogs.

 

I do agree that if you don't have near 100% control over him that he should be off leash at the dog park. It's not fair to the other dogs.

 

Either way, I think you should work on self control and general obedience prior to attempting any ball playing around other dogs. Make sure he understands and obeys lie down, here and leave it even when super excited before attempting any off leash play with other dogs around.

 

There is definitively an 'over excitation' component. Tonight I decided to test if it was only balls and it is not only balls. At 'the big park' (where offleash is tolerated but not a dog park per say) someone was throwing a stick to their dog. Dyson was interested and was reacting with the same focus as if someone was throwing the ball. A few throws later, he did get overexcited and same 'snap' at the other dog that I've seen with a ball. There is growling and snarling in that snap. So "I think" there is a component of aggression in there as well.

 

As a side note, he was apparently beating up by his sire growing up until given up to rescue. He is very submissive to other dogs but does have this 'toy aggression'. I don't know if it also translates to food or other resource. At this point, I want to deal with what I experience with him rather than 'explain it from his background'. However, since rescue did warn me about some tendencies to be possessive around balls-toys, I have to assume that the behavior didn't start with me and simply surfaced in the last couple of weeks once he started settling in his new environment. This also means it is likely more deeply learned and may take more time to change.

 

I agree it's not fair to the other dogs, I'll thus avoid for now -as much as possible- any situation where he would be in an area where someone else is playing with their dog.

 

We are working on basic obedience and he is pretty good in low to medium distraction but once in 'aroused' state he is not. He is making progress since even last week it was only in very low distraction that I could get his attention. On walks I can now get him to focus almost any time I ask (there are still the odd impossible to resist smell to sniff or roll in). If there are other dogs present or people to greet, it's definitively getting better. If he is in 'ball mode', then I can sometimes get his attention but I can see it's very fleeting.

[mtnfrank]

I would also teach him the command “Drop It” too. I’m assuming you’re throwing the ball and having him run after it? I could be wrong but if you are starting out playing ball like this, you could be helping his prey drive kick in and with lack of self control…..

 

Once he learns those commands, with no other dogs or balls around, I would bring out 2 balls and teach him to catch them (or play catch if he already knows how). Teach him he has to drop the ball in his mouth before you’ll throw the other one for him to catch. Do you or one of your friends have a torn up squeaky toy? If so, take the squeaky part out and slip it into your pocket. If/when you lose Dyson’s attention, press the squeaky. When you have his attention again, resume playing catch and start teaching him to bring it back to you (if he doesn’t already). When he tries to change the rules of the game, end the game. You + ball = fun and you set the rules.

 

If you continue to take Dyson to the dog park I would leave the park after collecting him when he goes after someone else's ball. It’ll probably take a few times of leaving the dog park but he should eventually learn if he goes after someone else’s ball, park time is over. Again, you + ball = fun and you set the rules (but I would work on getting Dyson solid on his commands before going back).

 

I love the fact my JJ is ball obsessed. Anytime I take him out in public and want/need his undivided attention, I pull the ball out of my purse. No one else in the world exists when I do that.

 

Good luck!

 

Drop it has been a bit of a challenge to teach. He doesn't know it yet. At home he does it naturally without me having to ask for it so I have to capture it somehow, at the park he will leave it if I put my hand under the ball but obviously not if asked since he doesn't know it yet.

 

Not sure if it's prey drive (squirrels, birds, etc he ignores) but definitively he gets stimulated. And yes I was throwing for him to retrieve.

 

I've been walking him off when he does not behave and stopping the play but I'm wondering if he hasn't learned (for the moment) that me = the fun sometimes stops vs other people = they are always fun. I'm of course trying to break that and asking other people not to play with him.

 

I've tried with two balls, usually he fixates on one and completely ignores the other one. To the extend that he'll let the other one hit him on the head if thrown his way. Food will not break the focus either.

 

I do have a squeaky tennis ball that he REALLY likes (I limit play with that toy, in fact hasn't been out in a few weeks) I could try using it as an interrupt to get his attention outside.

 

I was initially thinking to have basic obedience down before focusing on self control but looks like I may have to do more self control now.

 

And less ball and none if there are other dogs. For now and in time start again as long as he behaves, if not go one step back and start again.

 

And yes, it was fantastic up until a couple weeks ago to have a dog that could be so well focused while playing. I was thinking on how I could use that focus for training. For now I need to work on being able to always get focus on me instead of on the activity.

[Liz P]

One of the most important things you need to teach to a Border Collie is that no matter how focused they are on something (be it a ball or livestock), they MUST listen to your commands. If that means putting him on a leash or long line and physically dragging him away from the ball if he doesn't call off, then so be it. Show him that no matter what he will listen to you. There is no choice. Practice makes perfect and proofing commands can take months. Just be patient and consistent.

[Pam Wolf]

Liz where is the Like button for your suggestions?

[gcv-border]

Practice makes perfect and proofing commands can take months. Just be patient and consistent.

 

Yes, Yes, Yes!! Months....

 

It took me about 6 months to achieve a reliable "drop it" with the tennis ball. I played A LOT of the 'trade game' (2 tennis balls). It was sort of funny to watch him with a ball in his mouth and looking at the other ball. You could tell he wanted the other ball, but he also had a hard time giving up the ball in his mouth. You could see his little brain working hard, and his mouth would quiver until he finally decided to let go of the ball.

 

Patience.

 

Jovi

[Alchemist]

Agree with what's been said - your dog may not be ready for the dog park yet, and impulse control exercises are a really good idea.

 

I used to hike at a place where many dogs would congregate at a stream for a good game of "fetch". I taught my dog a "not your ball" (or "not your stick") command. (But only after he'd already had some impulse control training). Even if your dog turns out not to be aggressive over balls, you never know when you're going to encounter another dog that resents that black and white bolt of lightning (Border collies can outrun most other dogs!) grabbing the ball from under its nose. And it helps in avoiding injuries from pileups. It sounds like the sort of thing you should work towards. You can start it first in your family room with no distractions, then gradually progress from there.

 

(We don't go to this hiking spot any longer; they started to enforce leash laws).

[OurBoys]

Drop it has been a bit of a challenge to teach. He doesn't know it yet. At home he does it naturally without me having to ask for it so I have to capture it somehow, at the park he will leave it if I put my hand under the ball but obviously not if asked since he doesn't know it yet.

Like Liz and Jovi said, be patient and consistent. He’ll get it. If he puts the ball in your hand at times, put a command on it. As soon as he puts it there, say “Put it in my hand”.

 

 

Not sure if it's prey drive (squirrels, birds, etc he ignores) but definitively he gets stimulated. And yes I was throwing for him to retrieve.

Whether it’s prey drive or not, keeping the game closer will help Dyson focus on you. When you throw the ball away from yourself, you’re setting him up to lose sight of you and steering him towards the other distractions. Literally taking baby steps will help. Start in close. Every few minutes, take a step back to increase the distance between you. When he looks away, take a step towards him before continuing walking backwards.

 

 

I've been walking him off when he does not behave and stopping the play but I'm wondering if he hasn't learned (for the moment) that me = the fun sometimes stops vs other people = they are always fun.

It doesn’t matter. Liz is right. It doesn’t matter how focused Dyson is on the ball, he must listen to you. That’s not being mean. One day it could save his life. Thank you for working on it.

 

 

I've tried with two balls, usually he fixates on one and completely ignores the other one. To the extend that he'll let the other one hit him on the head if thrown his way. Food will not break the focus either.

I wonder if the squeaky tennis ball might work. If it gets his attention, don’t give it to him as a reward. In fact, if there’s any way you can hide it, I wouldn’t let him see it. You only want to use it to break his focus and redirect his attention back to you.

 

 

I was initially thinking to have basic obedience down before focusing on self control but looks like I may have to do more self control now.

It doesn’t have to be one or the other. An intelligent dog gets bored easily. The more variety of commands you have to work with, the longer you will be able to keep his attention. Just don’t make the sessions too long.

 

 

And yes, it was fantastic up until a couple weeks ago to have a dog that could be so well focused while playing.

Don’t worry. You’ll get there again. At 14 mos old (I love that age), Dyson still has a lot of puppy in him. Having a dog for 6 weeks might seem like a long time but it isn’t really. I believe in obedience training but I’m not a believer in one size fits all. I don’t clicker train but if you want to capture an instance like as soon as he drops the ball that might be something you might want to consider. Maybe someone experienced in clicker training can give you some tips.

[mtnfrank]

Thank you all for your responses. I should first put the disclaimer that he is not that bad at the moment. What I don't want is things getting worse.

 

My original question was, in short, should I try to manage at the park or avoid for now. The responses have been to work on self-control and avoid putting him in a situation where he can get in trouble and/or is not listening to me. i.e. avoid the park for now.

 

I thought I might have broken my toe last night, meaning a run or long walk was out of the question this morning (turns out it's most likely just badly bruised rather than broken). Out of necessity I limped to the park hoping no-one would be there on a rainy Sunday morning.

 

There were a few dogs playing ball... This is what I did:

1) Approach: I approached the park very slowly, turning away anytime he would pull on the leash. Then asking him to focus, sit-down, then we would move closer to the park.

 

2) At the park: I picked the furthest corner (it's a 2acre+ park) and while holding the leash, I asked him to do a few sit-down-stay. He would then get a ball toss directly to him -while I'm still holding the leash. A few times he wanted to go run with the other fetchers but a quick squeak from the hidden squeaky ball and he would focus back on me. Relax, focus then when good another ball toss.

 

3) When the other dogs left: I unleashed him, did a few toss practicing sit-down then gave him a few short throws. I was able to get him to do some sit-stay down-stay then gave a release word before giving the throw. Maybe I'm imagining things but he almost seem to like the tension before the release word.

 

4) Leaving the park: I soon as he saw him getting more aroused, i.e. dropping the ball than picking it up again and walk-circling way. I put him back on the leash and we left the park.

 

Observations:

- On the leash, I was able to get him to focus on me even if other dogs were playing in the background -even if far, it knew they were there.

- Off leash, I was able to get him to focus if I had the ball in my hand. That's already better than before when he would just zone out and fix the ball.

- If the ball is on the ground, I can't get his attention yet

- Leaving the park was much easier this morning, no jumping and trying to block my way.

 

So overall I'd say a little bit of progress. I'll definitively keep working on it as long as it takes.

 

On basic obedience vs self control, it's not an either or. It's just that I'm slowly increasing the amount of 'learning' each day as I get to know his limits. I'm careful to keep session shorter than his attention span. There are already so many things to work on! I have to do the obedience class exercise - we wouldn't want the border collie to look bad in class would we- but there are so many other things I would like to train at once! Recall, 'stop' as in a down-stay and 'leave it' are priorities.

[mtnfrank]

Speaking of self-control, what specific exercises would you recommend for Dyson?

 

Listed so far:

- Leave it/drop it

- trade game

 

Also, all of this being related. How best to improve his focus/listening in high distraction environment?

 

For example, tonight on a long walk -my toe still hurts and is an interesting colour but since I can bear weight it's likely not broken- with some offleash at the big park (where there are rarely balls). I could get him to recall, down, sit even with some distance and some medium distractions. By medium distractions I mean a few people and a few dogs. Even a few times while he would be running with another dog I was able to call him back.

 

However, and as I practiced it a few times to call him back, giving him a treat than releasing him back, I noticed that there is an 'excitation level', for example when playing all out with another dog, when he simply doesn't hear me anymore. This being said the other dog owners weren't any better at getting their dogs back but I have higher standards! Eventually I would get his attention but certainly not fast enough to my taste. That area is at a low risk since cars are far way but there are still things like the mud pond where the owner would rather like him not to jump... (actually I was able to stop him within inches of the pond, but wasn't able to prevent the rolling into something unspeakably bad smelling)

 

So... how best to progress between the "it's too easy, he's almost 100% on his commands" to "it's way too hard he's near 0%".

 

Thanks again,

 

F.

[waffles]

However, and as I practiced it a few times to call him back, giving him a treat than releasing him back, I noticed that there is an 'excitation level', for example when playing all out with another dog, when he simply doesn't hear me anymore. This being said the other dog owners weren't any better at getting their dogs back but I have higher standards! Eventually I would get his attention but certainly not fast enough to my taste.

 

So... how best to progress between the "it's too easy, he's almost 100% on his commands" to "it's way too hard he's near 0%".

 

Thanks again,

 

F.

 

I don't remember if you said, but does he have a decent recall now but just not when highly involved in something (playing with other dogs, etc?)

I would recall him when he is playing with another dog but not super super into it yet. So he just starts playing with another dog; recall him, the second he looks at you/or starts towards you, whip his prized ball behind you. You can try to use the squeeker as well to get his attention, then whip the ball behind you. If you look up recall games it will help show you (youtube I think is where I watched several videos a while ago). If the ball is his favorite thing then use it to your advantage. But don't wait until he is at 0% chance of listening as you say, try to call him when he is at a medium distraction then go up from there. Recall games though are awesome and super fun to do with your dog. I proofed my dogs recall in various situations and places (while walking ahead of me, sniffing something, far away, short distance, chasing a ball/frisbee, etc) and 2 years into things I still practice recalls because I find them to be so fun and so does Levi!

[Liz P]

This is a reply I wrote in another post, but I think it applies here just as much.

 

"From the day I get a new pup or dog I begin teaching impulse control. They don't even need to know any commands to do this. Pups who get too riled up go to their crate for a nap to calm down. I expect my pups to take many quiet naps during the day while I do things around the house (cleaning, training other dogs, cooking, relaxing, etc).

 

I will take pups for car rides to places where I can socialize and train them. If we pull up to a parking spot and they are fussing in the crate I wait for them to settle down before getting them out. If they don't settled down I turn around and drive right home. You aren't calm? Fine, you don't get to go for a special walk. When out in public, if a pup sees something they want (for example, to meet another dog) and starts to pull and cry, I turn around and walk the opposite direction. If they are calm and quite, we can walk towards what they want.

 

Obedience commands are taught at home but proofed on walks. If puppy obeys commands it can stay off leash. If puppy blows off several commands in a row it gets put back on lead and is asked to obey commands. If it obeys all commands on leash it earns off leash time again. Rinse and repeat.

 

Other impulse control exercises include dropping a treat on the floor during a down or sit stay. Puppy must ignore treat. If puppy does ignore the treat I give a release command and he may eat it. If puppy tries to get the treat, whines or fusses I keep the pup in a down stay (using physical restraint if needed) until he settles, then I give a release and let him eat the treat. If he still won't settle he earns a time out in the crate.

 

For games I make my dogs take turns fetching the ball. All dogs are in a down stay (puppy wearing a leash in case it breaks the stay) and I throw the ball. I then give permission to one dog to run and get it. If a dog breaks the down stay it loses its turn. "

[mtnfrank]

I don't remember if you said, but does he have a decent recall now but just not when highly involved in something (playing with other dogs, etc?)

I would recall him when he is playing with another dog but not super super into it yet. So he just starts playing with another dog; recall him, the second he looks at you/or starts towards you, whip his prized ball behind you. You can try to use the squeeker as well to get his attention, then whip the ball behind you. If you look up recall games it will help show you (youtube I think is where I watched several videos a while ago). If the ball is his favorite thing then use it to your advantage. But don't wait until he is at 0% chance of listening as you say, try to call him when he is at a medium distraction then go up from there. Recall games though are awesome and super fun to do with your dog. I proofed my dogs recall in various situations and places (while walking ahead of me, sniffing something, far away, short distance, chasing a ball/frisbee, etc) and 2 years into things I still practice recalls because I find them to be so fun and so does Levi!

 

Looks like my earlier reply was eaten by the forum. Yes he has good recall... until he doesn't.

 

I have been recalling him while he plays, treat than release again. But there is a point, and I can't quite identify exactly where that point is yet, where he turns (mostly) deaf. After that, commands are (mostly) ignored. He eventually listens and come back and usually settles and is good again. If not he gets put back on the leash. Had to do it once on the walk today. Will keep practicing and will look up recall games.

[mtnfrank]

This is a reply I wrote in another post, but I think it applies here just as much.

 

"From the day I get a new pup or dog I begin teaching impulse control. They don't even need to know any commands to do this. Pups who get too riled up go to their crate for a nap to calm down. I expect my pups to take many quiet naps during the day while I do things around the house (cleaning, training other dogs, cooking, relaxing, etc).

 

I will take pups for car rides to places where I can socialize and train them. If we pull up to a parking spot and they are fussing in the crate I wait for them to settle down before getting them out. If they don't settled down I turn around and drive right home. You aren't calm? Fine, you don't get to go for a special walk. When out in public, if a pup sees something they want (for example, to meet another dog) and starts to pull and cry, I turn around and walk the opposite direction. If they are calm and quite, we can walk towards what they want.

 

Obedience commands are taught at home but proofed on walks. If puppy obeys commands it can stay off leash. If puppy blows off several commands in a row it gets put back on lead and is asked to obey commands. If it obeys all commands on leash it earns off leash time again. Rinse and repeat.

 

Other impulse control exercises include dropping a treat on the floor during a down or sit stay. Puppy must ignore treat. If puppy does ignore the treat I give a release command and he may eat it. If puppy tries to get the treat, whines or fusses I keep the pup in a down stay (using physical restraint if needed) until he settles, then I give a release and let him eat the treat. If he still won't settle he earns a time out in the crate.

 

For games I make my dogs take turns fetching the ball. All dogs are in a down stay (puppy wearing a leash in case it breaks the stay) and I throw the ball. I then give permission to one dog to run and get it. If a dog breaks the down stay it loses its turn. "

 

Already doing some of that, pulling gets him nowhere. We are in the process of proofing sit-down-stay on walks. He is good enough that most people comment on how good he is when I get him to sit-down while we talk about our respective dogs. But I have a higher standard on behaviour I expect from him than most people have from their dog. (such as the guy that chased his dog for 5min at the park this morning and than proceeded to physically restrained him and somewhat robustly fight him until he released the ball he had stolen from another dog... let's just say we stayed far far away from that area).

 

He is learning 'stay' at the moment (or rather that sit-down are sit-down unless told otherwise), will introduce the treat tolerance. And when good will try with a ball at home.

[Urban Borders]

My older dog (she is 5 now) had this problem in spades, although she would stalk other dogs and never, ever bit or snapped or even stole a toy. I got her as a puppy, and the first year of her life her only exercise outlet was a dog park. What a disaster. Kudos to you for working on fixing it now, and not later.

 

It's taken me years to fix this, but admittedly I was a particularly clueless owner (first dog, new grad student, BC puppy from working lines). It probably wouldn't take that long if I had to go back and do it again, but it still takes a. long. time. It is predatory behavior and excessive arousal, which, yes, can generate aggression; you have to overcome both.

 

No more dog park for my dog, ever, although she will now play with her own toy around other dogs with toys (in our yard, or at parks I've taken her to). She might be able to do it now, but I know dog parks are the hardest scenario for her to deal with (bottom line was that, after having seen multiple dog attacks at our dog park, I decided to find a better place to play). Make your recall incredibly solid (call for super high value rewards, then release), put an emergency recall (hers is a whistle) in place, teach a leave it. But that will only get your dog out a situation, if he's in one he can't handle. Still absolutely essential though.

 

Otherwise, avoidance. Find a place to play with him where you can walk and he can bring the ball as you walk. With my girl, I walk in a big loop around a cemetery, toss the Frisbee (balls have actually been reserved exclusively for agility rewards, since she needs a root canal) behind me, she catches it, runs ahead of me (I can practice sides with her as she does this, for agility...best blind cross dog ever), drops the Frisbee, and "balances" me on the opposite side just like she does with sheep. It works for her, it works for me, and she ignores other people and dogs that we encounter. To work on playing around other dogs, do it in small and controlled doses, like at a CU class. Not at a dog park.

 

There are glow-in-the dark balls, if your dog is not a klutz like mine :-) So you might do this in the dark, if everyone has a head lamp or collar light, and if your fellow doesn't hurt himself tripping over things.