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Box Method of teaching running contacts?


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I was wondering if anyone has successfully used the Box method of training running contacts? If so did you find it user and dog friendly? I have been really going back and forth on running verses 2o2o. After watching the box method online I really feel it looks much more "doable" for me than other running methods just because the box gives a better visual of where the yellow is so easier for handler to be consistant with rewards. My question is has anyone had trouble fading out the box? How consistant is it in compatition? Also how long does it take to train if worked on daily?

-Christine

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Hype sez BOX IS FUN cuz I get to RUN! Stopping is for sissies sis! ;-)

 

But seriously, Hype's my first dog teaching this way and we're in the early stages, so I'm looking forward to reading responses. :-) Have heard good things and seen good results from others.

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Unfortunately, I didn't have success with it. I was never able to get Dean to transfer the flatwork striding pattern onto the A-Frame itself.

 

I don't fault the method for that. I may well not have taken it as slowly as I would have needed to in order to make it work - I had limited access to the A-Frame, particularly a low one.

 

But I will say that we had a lot of fun going through the training, and I felt that we benefitted from it even though we went with a different way to teach Dean's running contact.

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But I will say that we had a lot of fun going through the training, and I felt that we benefitted from it even though we went with a different way to teach Dean's running contact.

 

Agreed. We did the foundation work for it too & found it very worthwhile & heaps of fun.

I also decided to go with 2o2o in the end, but would recommend the groundwork for the box method as a really good training tool.

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I used it to train Ripley's contacts. I liked the method, although I wound up fading the box very quickly after putting it on the a-frame, because depending on his striding and approach, he would sometimes hit the PVC and startle himself. I know that the whole point of training this way is to help them get a consistent striding, but I didn't WANT him forcing his body to get into position - as long as he took two strides down I was happy. So I began rewarding just for running the downside. Sometimes I used a hoop about 2' away from the downside or upside that he had to duck under to help him keep his striding in check. I also used the clicker for hitting the yellow (after we removed the box from the frame) and followed by throwing a toy or treat.

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