lambing

[muddy bob]

We've kept a small training flock around for a while now, just swapping them out as necessary. I've never wanted the responsibility of owning a ram or of lambing.

I noticed one of our latest group (purchased from a good friend) looking quite round. Now she is absolutely huge and the others are starting to show. Our friend says she noticed one of the wethers acting rammy so it looks like we will be having some little ones soon.

I've got myself all worked up about all the malpresentations that can happen, just like I do with each foal I raise. But at least I don't worry about multiples in horses as I ultrasound the mare.

I've given them all covexin eight. Is there anything else I need to worry about? I just want to do this right and any advise from you more experienced folk would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Muddy

[Jordi44]

Don't panic - most of the time they do just fine on their own. Had one of mine surprise me with twins today. I was beginning to worry that she was going to need help, but seeing as it is cool, windy, rainy, and we're knee deep in mud, I decided to wait her out (she's lambed before and never has had a problem). I went to town to get groceries, she had twins, and we're all quite happy now. If you've done horses, then sheep should be a piece of cake - and they aren't quite as sneaky as horses. My rule of thumb is - if everything seems fine, leave it alone - especially with first timers.

 

They usually bag up before they lamb - some girls do it weeks (or so it seems) before, others, barely get bagged up at all before they drop them. Once they do lamb, if you can, check to make sure her teats aren't plugged - just try to milk out a stream. I do move them into the barn into a small pen so that they don't "lose" their lambs (some ewes are incredibly stupid). That can be done after they lamb or when you see she's ready. If after - just hold the lamb in front of their nose, and if you're lucky, she'll be smart enough to follow it. Making baa-ing noises usually helps. You can dip the umbilical cord in iodine (or similar solution) to help prevent any infection, but I've never had a problem either way.

 

The biggest problems are when it's really cold out and the lambs might chill or freeze with multiple births or bad mothers, but at this time of year, that shouldn't be a big problem. Malpresentations aren't that big of a problem - I've had my share over the years, but I wouldn't worry about it until you think you have a problem. Most common is breech or a lamb with one or two legs back. If it's breech, just pull it as is - but once you get it part of the way out, pull as quickly as possible (try to work with the ewe's contractions). Sometimes, you can pull one with only one leg back, but it's harder. You can try to push the lamb back into the ewe and then get both legs and/or head into proper position (occasionally, they get a head back). Then pull with the contractions. The most important thing to remember in pulling a lamb when it's a multiple birth is to make sure that all the parts you're pulling on belong to the same lamb. Trace both front legs back to the body and make sure it's all the same lamb. It's happened to more than one person that they were pulling like crazy on two front feet only to find that each foot belonged to a different lamb. It seems funny until it happens to you. Or, if there's a kindly old shepherd nearby(or the good friend that sold them to you to begin with), call and sound pathetic, a lot of times, they'll come help you. If in doubt of being able to help - call your vet.

 

You'll do fine - and lambs are fun in the spring. Don't forget to dock their tails and castrate - I use an elastrator band for both and works fine.

[juliepoudrier]

Muddy, I'm not terribly experienced, and I know how you feel. I had bought a bunch of bred ewes at the end of December, but since the owner wasn't on the farm at the time of breeding, we had to guess as to when lambs might be due. Then we still had a surprise with a yearling ewe who wasn't supposed to be pregnant (checked the others who also weren't supposed to be preggers and found 4 of the 5 bagging up!). I guess I was lucky with mine. I had one ewe whose second twin had a leg back. By the time I got my supplies to help, she had done the job herself. All the rest lambed with no help at all, and I really only had to help two lambs--one who got cold and needed jump starting and the other who was just a bit weak at birth.

 

Because vaccination status of the ewes was unknown, I vaccinated everyone, but for those that had lambs shortly thereafter I had to give the lambs tetanus shots (the antibodies not the vaccine) when I banded since we couldn't be sure their mamas had been vaccinated in time to confer any immunity on the lambs.

 

Oh, if your ewes are wool sheep, you should crutch them (shear them around their udders, bellies, and backsides) so that they are nice and clean for lambing and so the lambs can find teats and not end up sucking on dirty wool tags. (Yes, it was real fun crutching the one yearling ewe by the light of a heat lamp AFTER she had delivered the surprise lamb!)

 

I also agree with Jordi--the lambs are a blast! (Jordi, by the way, we are up to five karakul ewes and I am going to check out some rams in the next week or two--at Sue Bundy's farm in Leesburg.)

 

J.

[Jordi44]

Boy Julie, sure wish you were closer - I have two karakul rams here that I'd send over real fast. Along with the goat and my one NC ram. My 2-yr-old black ram decided he didn't want to wait until I lured all of them to another pen to get his hay, so he butted me - while I was staring him down telling him he'd better not even think about it. Didn't hit too hard, but did make me drop the hay - he didn't get much of it though, you can be sure. And if I have one more ewe lamb at a weird time with at least one lamb that looks even remotely karakul... Glad you're enjoying them. They are unique, but they get on my nerves. Most of ours are going to an exotic auction Easter weekend. They won't bring a lot, but they usually go to "pet" homes like petting zoos, people that want a pet sheep, that sort of thing - seldom do any of my sheep go to slaughter at this auction. Guess I'm just a softie, but I hate to send cull ewes that are still usable to slaughter (hate to send anything with a few exceptions).

 

BTW - I don't crutch my girls - Karakul or black Rambouillet. Usually don't have a problem with the lambs getting in there.

[Pipedream Farm]

The biggest problems I've ever had with lambing/mismothering was when we were new at it and interfered too much. We simply lamb out in the pasture now and I don't jug anybody and have had way fewer problems. If you really do want to pen them up after they've lambed, I've found it best to give them a chance to bond a little before you move them. Lambs can be amazingly tough about cold weather once they're dry and have a good mom. Relax, you'll do fine.

Renee

[juliepoudrier]

Originally posted by Pipedream Farm:

The biggest problems I've ever had ... was when we were new at it and interfered too much.

I'll second that! I found out real quick when I had that first weak lamb that I initially had to tube feed to make sure she got colostrum. Later, when I had moved them out of the pasture and was in the stall with mom and lambs, the ewe, who was older and quite experienced (I should have trusted her), wouldn't stand for the lamb to nurse. I ended up tying her up. The next time, she again wouldn't stand still. I walked out of the stall to get the halter and voila! she let the baby nurse. I learned my lesson pretty quick--my presence was interfering with the natural order of things.

 

After that we left everyone alone except to check sex, dip umbilical cords, and the like. We brought lambs and mothers inside only if it was late in the day and they were still wet with temps falling. In general, they were kept in overnight, or at most for 24 hours.

 

J.

[muddy bob]

I am glad to hear you say I can let them mother up and stay in the pasture. That's my preferred method.

The worst problem I ever had with a colt was that he was so tall it was difficult for him to reach down and tip his head. I stayed out of the way thinking he'd "get it" on his own. Hours later he still was not catching a clue. And the stubborn little guy would get mad if I helped. He got his colostrum through a nose tube. The vet said I'd have to milk my mare and bottle feed him until he figured it out. Upon returning home from purchasing the bottle, I discovered he GOT IT.

I thought he'd be a little on the slow side since he couldn't figure out how to eat. But he's a smart little pest. He tries to steal the neighbor's hat while he's on the riding mower!

We call him Sideshow Bob. He's my favourite.

Sorry for going on about horses when we're supposed to be talking sheep.

 

Muddy

[muddy bob]

I forgot to ask how much time is necessary between vaccination and birth for the ewes to pass on the antibodies. I'm shooting for thirty days. I think these ewes are going to lamb at different times since one is huge and been bagged up for a week and the others are just beginning to show. Is it possible that I vaccinated these others to early? That was two days ago.

 

Muddy

[Deacon Dog]

"A good protocol for ewe lambs is vaccinating at 5 weeks and 3 weeks prior to lambing. For mature ewes that have lambed in previous years a single vaccination at 3 weeks priorto lambing is sufficient to stimulate the immune system. The antibodies the newborn lamb receives will help protect it against the challenge of the disease. These passive antibodies are very effective for E. coli and Type C overeating. They will help control tetanus, but you need to provide additional protection in lambs when docking and castrating to prevent tetanus."

 

Pipestone Prelambing Vaccination Article

[muddy bob]

Thank you Tony. That website is now on my favourites.

 

Muddy

[muddy bob]

I thought I'd let you all know that we had our first lambs this morning. The twins were still wet but up and trying to nurse when I went to the barn around six this morning. Thank you everyone who helped to ease my worries. I didn't have to do anything. I hope the rest go as smoothly.

 

Muddy

[Pipedream Farm]

Congrats and good luck with the rest!

Renee

[Peg Haese]

Muddy, be sure you start a diary for the family. I'm not kidding. Just a day-by-day listing of dam (and sire if you know), number of lambs, lamb's sex, face or body color, birth weight if you can, and any treatments like shots and worming. This is a good idea for anyone with sheep. You think you can remember, and you can't recall specific details later.

 

I write notes in a little pocket notebook, take it in the house, and enter it in a computer file. You could also just use a legal pad.

 

For eartags, get blank ones and a special pen for writing on them. (We change colors every year. So this year's tags are salmon and start 06-01, 06-02, etc.) They may also need a scrapie tag which you can order for free through your state vet office. Ask for a tag applicator at the same time (should also be free). If you use the same kind of tag for both, you only need one applicator. Ours sheep have two tags each in case one gets pulled out somewhere along the line. That's very common.

 

We use a rubber band elastrator for doing tails and castrating the boys. In your situation, banding the boys would be a VERY good idea. Just be sure to get both testicles, not just one. That may be what happened to the lambs' daddy if he was supposed to be a wether and wasn't.

 

If you don't keep all the lambs, your buyers may be interested in the family details even if you don't think you are. A lot of shepherds started out with sheep just meant for herding and didn't intend to have lambs. You're in good company.

 

Peg Haese and BCs in SW Wisconsin

PNP Katahdins and commercial wool flock