Light sheep

[kelpiegirl]

Any way to make sheep a bit less light? And, no, I don't mean by feeding them more!

[denice]

Any way to make sheep a bit less light? And, no, I don't mean by feeding them more!

 

I change the group dynamics by adding or subtracting sheep. The size of the group makes a difference as does individual sheep and breeds. I have several different breeds and crosses so that I have sheep with different tendencies that allow me to work on specific things in my training sessions. If I am teaching a young dog to push I use heavy hamp crosses, for covering I go for lighter hair sheep ect. I find older sheep are usually a bit slower as are larger bunches which may be the only option if you have a singular breed available.

 

Hope that helps and was what you are asking.

 

Denice

[Debbie Meier]

Curious, are they light due to lack of being dog broke or worked much, fearful of dogs or are they one of the breeds that tend to be quick to respond to a dog?

[Diana A]

My sheep all get heavier for my dog the more we work them because they learn the dog will never let them get away. They don't get heavy to the point of being hard to push, but they stop all the crazy gazelle behavior while still remaining very responsive to the dog. I think the dog is important - a good dog who won't harass them but will insist they go where they're supposed to and who anticipates their every move and heads it off while it's still just a thought will go a long way to steadying them up. I notice with mine if I don't work them for a quite some time they get light again, and if a new dog they don't know comes on the place to work they go back to gazelle behavior until they figure the dog out and if they can trust it or not, or if they can take advantage. The worst combinaton that will increase the flightiness is a dog who puts too much pressure on them but then when they react to it by running doesn't cover them and they learn they can beat the dog and escape.

 

I remember one training session I was working on my dog keeping her cool and going deep enough behind the sheep when going after escaping sheep, so I'd set them up going back towards the barn, spook them a bit myself to ge them moving, then send the dog. After about three times of that, I couldn't make the sheep run anymore, they would just walk towards the barn even with me and the dog both behind them because they figured out she was just going to stop them anyway. So now I remember that if we haven't worked them in a while and they're flighty, I just tempt them to escape a couple times and have the dog stop them, and then all is well.

[kelpiegirl]

Diana- this makes a whole lotta sense. My sheep have not been worked much at all, because the pasture was too full of trees, and they just used them, if you know what I mean. So, now that I have gone back out there, they are ninnies. But, both my dogs can/do cover and I guess it will just take some time to get them back in the groove. For not being worked, they certainly are fit They are teaching the younger dog to be on his toes, and that is certainly worth it. The older dog gets hot much faster now, because, I guess she KNOWS that these sheep are light....

 

My sheep all get heavier for my dog the more we work them because they learn the dog will never let them get away. They don't get heavy to the point of being hard to push, but they stop all the crazy gazelle behavior while still remaining very responsive to the dog. I think the dog is important - a good dog who won't harass them but will insist they go where they're supposed to and who anticipates their every move and heads it off while it's still just a thought will go a long way to steadying them up. I notice with mine if I don't work them for a quite some time they get light again, and if a new dog they don't know comes on the place to work they go back to gazelle behavior until they figure the dog out and if they can trust it or not, or if they can take advantage. The worst combinaton that will increase the flightiness is a dog who puts too much pressure on them but then when they react to it by running doesn't cover them and they learn they can beat the dog and escape.

 

I remember one training session I was working on my dog keeping her cool and going deep enough behind the sheep when going after escaping sheep, so I'd set them up going back towards the barn, spook them a bit myself to ge them moving, then send the dog. After about three times of that, I couldn't make the sheep run anymore, they would just walk towards the barn even with me and the dog both behind them because they figured out she was just going to stop them anyway. So now I remember that if we haven't worked them in a while and they're flighty, I just tempt them to escape a couple times and have the dog stop them, and then all is well.

[juliepoudrier]

I do like Denice, mixing and matching to get the lightness I want in the group. I want to say, though, that IME some breeds just never really become heavy, even with a lot of work.... (And I have some that no matter how many times they're caught and brought back by a dog will still try to head back to the favorite spot, at speed.)

 

J.

[Gloria Atwater]

Hi there!

 

I'll echo what's already been said. I think the best "cure" for light sheep is to be worked often, most importantly by dogs who can cover and control them, and shut down their escapes. You don't want dogs to chase or push, since that will convince the sheep there's reason for them to run like crazy things. But good dogs who cover, hold a steady pace and convince the sheep they're in charge will in time make a difference.

 

Also, as folks have said, sorting your sheep according to which groups work more quietly together will help. If you find out which ewes or pairs of ewes have the quieter heads, they can be put with a couple lighter sheep to help settle and calm them. Larger groups can likewise be "heavier" than smaller groups.

 

It can also help if you can work in a smaller area for a little while, just to get the sheep to the idea that the dogs really have them.

 

Good luck with the sheep taming!

Cheers ~

 

Gloria

[hsnrs]

Thanks for the advice. We also have light sheep and plan to work more when it cools off and we sell the rams. We do have one ewe who separates on purpose. Would you get rid of her? She produces well and is a really nice hair sheep otherwise.

[Gloria Atwater]

If you value the sheep for her ag worth, I'd keep her but avoid working her. Just set her and a companion off to one side when sorting for work. Personally, for training young dogs, I consider it unnecessary stress and complication to have a bunch-quittin' sheep constantly in the mix.

 

Sure, a dog needs to learn to handle the bunch-quitters and knotheads. But for training purposes, her behavior will get in the way of teaching your dogs tasks that require steadiness and calm. The same goes for a ewe that continually wants to confront a dog. The dog can't totally focus on a steady drive, calm walk-up or nice flanks if he's constantly keyed to deal with that one bad sheep. If she's *really* a pill, she can even entice a young dog to grip or chase unnecessarily.

 

Just my tuppence, everyone's mileage may vary.

Cheers ~

 

Gloria