Sheep for the first time

[borderfreak]

I would like to know what you did when your dogs saw sheep for the first time. Because I'll gonna start herding in the next few weeks. Actually I was at a seminar yet when Bo was about 9 month old. But it wasn't that good. Too much dogs, too calm sheep, too much commanding the dogs (I think with most dogs it's not possible to give them much commands while the first time at stock). So what did you at your dog's first time? Just let him get to know the sheep? Some little exercices?

[Shoofly]

You can see the first sessions for 2 of my dogs on Youtube --

 

This is Bill, the 3rd time he was on sheep, at 4 months old

 

This is Bart, his very first time on sheep, at 12 weeks old

 

I just try to get the dog going around the sheep the first few times out and let them balance the sheep to me.

[Sue R]

I assume you would be going to a trainer or clinic (or seminar). I assume that before you've made a commitment to a particular trainer, you have gone and observed other dogs in lessons so you can get an idea if the philosophy or style of training suits you (and, hopefully, your dog).

 

If you feel comfortable with how the trainer handles the dogs and stock, and find that person to be understandable, approachable with questions, and instructive - then you would be ready to commit to taking a lesson (or clinic or seminar). Look for a trainer that wants to teach you to understand the basics and principles, move at the rate you and your dog are comfortable with, and not just drill you over and over on the same old things, bypassing dealing with understanding and overcoming mistakes and problems in training. If not, try to find someone else.

 

Some trainers might not be as comfortable with "onlookers" as others but no trainer who has nothing to hide should object to a potential student observing lessons and/or that trainer handling their own dogs on stock in front of you. Any clinic I have attended has welcomed "auditors" or people who pay a much lower rate (or sometimes pay nothing at all) to observe (not participate with a dog) and even ask questions (within appropriate limits if the auditing is free).

 

My first time with a trainer, and at most clinics, my dog and I went into a round pen (about 75' in diameter) and the clinician stood with me and showed me how to send my dog, corrected me when I was wrong, told me when to correct my dog when he was wrong, and basically tried to guide me into helping my dog be correct in working the sheep. Many top trainers like the round pen for starting as it limits the area you are working in, can be helpful in aiding the dog in moving around the sheep (as long as it isn't too small - a too small pen is a detriment, I think), and makes it easier to control what is happening in these early, less-predictable, get-acquainted sessions.

 

Rather than a lot of commands for a novice dog and handler, you should be trying to make the right easy and the wrong harder for your dog, by using your body pressure and voice to help the dog chose what is right and learn to utilize his/her instincts in a way that will enable low-stress stockwork. Once the dog gets the idea of what to do reasonably well (as in going around the stock in a certain direction), then you can add the command and give the movement a name.

 

Calm sheep are preferred by some for starting dogs (especially young ones) and others prefer "lighter" sheep. Too light sheep can be totally overwhelming for a young or inexperienced dog (and handler!) so many people prefer to start novice dogs and handlers with the knee-knocking "puppy" sheep that will come to the handler naturally and aid the dog in getting the idea of bringing the sheep to the handler. These, too, can present problems of their own as they can be too interested in staying with the humans rather than being worked by the dogs. Your trainer should be able to determine what sort of sheep your dog (and you) would do best on.

 

I guess I would sum it up as in Robin's videos - getting the dog to go around the sheep at a reasonable distance (the basis for flanks and outruns), changing direction (essential also for flanking), and also stopping and being called off the sheep ("that'll do"), as well as beginning to balance and bring the sheep to you (tiny fetches).

 

Be prepared to feel clumsy, uncoordinated, blind (watching the sheep and knowing what your dog is doing at the same time - I need eyeballs that look in two different directions), ignorant of stock and stockwork, and hooked on something you can do with your dog that is totally unique and addictive.

[Laurae]

Another fantastic post, Sue! Between your well-thought-out response and Robin's excellent videos, I think this might be another one for the stickies section!

[Shoofly]

I agree Sue - another good post. I'd disagree a little bit with the stop and call off though. I don't worry about that for a few sessions most of the time. It can put a lot of pressure on a puppy to get him to do those things and i want the first few sessions to be nothing but fun.

[Sue R]

If I said anything that you would disagree with, Robin, than I should probably disagree with it myself! Concentrating on stopping and calling off was not my intention but one does need to be able to get hold of a youngster or young-in-training dog and leave the sheep. Maybe at my age, a stop and call off is a hoped for benefit! Most eager youngsters, though, will need to be intercepted and removed with a gentle hand on their collar or lead. My mistake.

[Shoofly]

BTW, there's an article i wrote years ago on my website about a dog's first lesson/first exposure to sheep. The link is below in my signature.

[borderfreak]

Okay. Thank you Sue for this huge post!