Agility Questions

[gypsy84]

I thought I saw a post about this a while ago.. but my search came up with 23 pages of results that were in no way related

 

I want to make some agility equipment to practice with Gypsy and get her used to it a bit before she actually starts classes (next spring). I'll just be jumping her 4" to get her used to jumps, different patterns, working away from me etc.

 

I went out today and got 6 8ft 2x2's, which I'll cut in half and use for making the jump standards (only know what they're called in horsey language, are they something else for dogs?). Should they be cut to any specific height? I was thinking of putting the lowest jump cup at 4", then 4" intervals up to 20" (I don't know if Gypsy will grow over 21" or not, but if she does I'll leave enough space to add on another cup at 24")

 

Also, what height/length is a standard A-frame and teeter? How high up do the contacts go? Is it safe to run a pup on an them (assuming they run it properly)?

 

Does anyone have any suggestions for making a tunnel?

 

I know weave poles have to wait for a while, but is there something I could do with them to teach proper entrances and how to weave? I don't want to do anything that could compromise her health in later years.

 

One more thing, what is a good way to teach her to go out and work away from me? I've never taught something like that before, and just want to make sure I hear other opinions of more experienced handlers before I confuse/frustrate both Gypsy and myself She's very food motivated and when treats come out, her brain sort of tunes out a bit and she only focuses on the treats. I'd rather not use them to train her agility. I bought her a big soft tug rope to use, and she's got countless other toys (balls, kongs, frisbee, etc.)

 

I know this was a long one, but I want to make sure I'm getting everything right

Thanks!

[Kat's Dogs]

only know what they're called in horsey language, are they something else for dogs?

Nope, same lingo there!

 

Should they be cut to any specific height?

Usually about 3 feet, maybe a touch shorter or taller - but that is what you normally see.

Depending on the organization you compete in the heights you need will change (I am talking mainly between NADAC and USDAA), I have jump cups that just slide - and marks at different heights. That works well for training and is simple. Although having set cups is really nice and has its advantages. Even if you don't do USDAA, I would suggest putting cups at those heights and the usual 4" intervals.

 

Also, what height/length is a standard A-frame and teeter

again, this changes. In USDAA the A-frame is (I think) 6'3' for big dogs. In NADAC it is only 5' (or is it 5' 3"?) at full height. But, having one that can change heights is PERFECT for pups, putting it almost flat on the ground to start and raising it up.

I think the teeter is like 2' or something, I don't exactly know.... The dogwalk I believe is also either 4 or 5 feet. Ack! I don't really know!!

 

Is it safe to run a pup on an them (assuming they run it properly)?

In my opinion, yes. Low would be much better (like only a foot off the ground), and definitely starting a contact behavior. On leash for awhile, and it is helpful to hold the pup's collar, or have "spotters" on each side. Puppies tend to think they can fly and are not afraid to jump off something and break all their legs .

 

Does anyone have any suggestions for making a tunnel?

Buy one? Kiddie tunnels work OK for pups, if you have a way to stake them down. to get started, just a towel draped over chairs or something, a refrigerator box..... Actual full size tunnels are about $100 and last a long time.

 

is there something I could do with them to teach proper entrances and how to weave?

If you are going to do channels (that is what I like) then you can start pups young (but you can't move the channels in for awhile of course). If you are going to do wires/luring/angled poles, there is not much you can do now. With the 2x2 method, you can also start young just doing the first 2 poles. Although that is not my favorite method...

 

what is a good way to teach her to go out and work away from me?

Targets.

If you don't want to use food (although it wouldn't matter so much for this exercise) you can just throw a toy and hold her back and there is your target. Set a target (food or toy) and then send her to it with a command. For optimum results (this may not make sense) stand about 5' away to start (but move farther quickly) and stand sideways to the target (with the dog at your side, and her side to the target). Then say your command ("out" or "away" or whatever) and let her go. This will teach her that the command means move laterally away from you, not just out ahead of you. That is a different command (I use "go" or "go on"). And can be taught the same way, but, predictably, the target would be in front of you and her.

 

There is also gate training. I don't know all the details of that method but here goes anyway:

you have a little "gate" of sorts, like a baby gate or screen gate of some kind. You start with the gate RIGHT in front of you and the dog, like it is cutting between the two of you. put a target on the opposite side of the gate from you (so in front of her) and give the command. little by little you move farther away in both directions. So when you stand 50' away from that gate, she will run around the other side of it on command. then you use the gate with an obstacle (say...a tunnel) and go from there, fading out the gate.

I think! someone may know more about that method than I do....

[gypsy84]

Thanks for the info!

 

My BF and I worked on the jumps yesterday. We ended up cutting the standards to 32" each so we could make 9 sets instead of 6

 

They're all sanded, and we made and attatched bases for each one. Now the only thing left is the jump cups! I'm not quite sure yet how I'm gonna make them... Possible just attatch small pieces of wood at every 4"interval so the poles can sit on them and come loose if she hits them. Although I'm in Canada, and the AAC uses heights 2" off from NADAC... Oh well

 

My dad does woodworking as a hobby, and he said that he has a bunch of wood that I could use for the jump poles. The only thing is that they're square shaped. Will this make a big difference from having round poles? It just means I don't have to spend money buying tons of poles.

 

I think that's about it for now.... I'm sure I'll have more questions soon enough.

[Rosanne]

Equipment plank lengths, widths, and tolerances along with painted contact length can be found in the USDAA rulebook, completely online, at USDAA.com.

 

A-frame apex height has changed in USDAA - it is now 5'10". Effective as of March 30th.

 

I would suggest definitely leaving the ability to raise the jumps, even if you never plan to trial at over 20". It is still important that your dog learn how to jump higher than than trial height, as some trials are on slopes and up-hill the jump will be higher. It's also just very educational to teach them how to jump all kinds of heights (all my dogs learn how to jump up to 32" at home, just not ALL the time or even very often). Of course, don't jump over the dog's elbow height until the growth plates are closed (I stick to 8" from 6-10ish months, then 12" until they're about 14-16 months, and I've had great success).

 

I don't do NADAC due to the odd rule changes and the fact that most of what my dog does would most likely be unsafe (he would probably put 1-2 strides on a 5' a-frame), but I do recommend it for beginning trialers as you can train in the ring some, and it presents a fun atmosphere, I think. It's good for motivating dogs if you ever problems with that.

 

For distance work I simply start close, and slowly work backwards teaching the dog that "go jump" means go and jump and come back. My 10 month old goes about 15 feet out already, jumps, wraps the standard, and comes flying back to grab the toy in my hand. I don't like to teach with too many rewards too far away from me as I like to encourage the dog to look to me after every obstacle. Of course, once we are sequencing, I redirect immediately, but if the dog is used to being rewarded away they don't drive back to me as quickly when I need them to.

I start right in front of the jump, and move forward to encourage the dog over it, then when they get the idea I stand next to them and don't go with them, then slowly work my way back with the dog and send them to jump. I reward with a tug toy in my hand 99% of the time, training just about everything from contacts to 2 by 2 weaves.

 

It also wouldn't hurt to contact your trainer ahead of time and ask what skills would be beneficial to have already when you start class.

 

edit to add: square poles shouldn't matter, as long as they aren't too heavy. In fact USDAA's National Finals equipment has square wooden poles. This can be helpful if you have a hard-headed dog who smacks his feet a few times and then doesn't want to hit them anymore, on the other hand if you have a dog who might get scared by sharper edged, heavy poles, you may need to be careful. I would recommend giving the corners/edges a quick sand if you can so they aren't as sharp.