Aggression

[Rikki's Mom]

My BC/Lab was a stray who came into BC rescue in September. The vet who neutered him put him at 16 months. He had aggression/socialization issues at the local dog park but appears to be over that issue.

 

However when he meets an intact male he barks, lunges, and his hair stands up. If the other dog will run or is submissive he will "herd" and bite on the butt. Can anyone offer an explanation or advice regarding this behavior?

 

Thanks, Kathy

[MaggieDog]

Does he do the same thing both on and off lead or just on lead? Often there's a different protocol to treating this behavior if it is specific to on lead times.

[Rikki's Mom]

In the beginning he was too unruly for the dog park, so I took him on the Iron Horse trail every day. At that time he lunged indiscrimanently. After working with him for about seven weeks, we tried the dog park again.

 

I made a "herding stick" (5' length of 3/4" pvc pipe capped on both ends filled with 1/4 cup of ball bearings); which Robbie respects and understands I can reach him with it through people and dogs. The only time he doesn't back off when I tell him to "leave it" is when an intact male is in the park. The rest of the time he plays well and his recall is o.k.

 

The "stick" is used, not as a weapon, but to tap in front of him to get his attention. I have also used it horizontally to let him know I can "reach" him from 5 feet away.

 

Thanks for any help you can offer.

 

P.S. He hasn't actually bitten another dog since his first two weeks at the park. At that point he did draw blood a couple of times (on the butt) and that's why I quit taking him. He was a new foster dog at the time and neutered just one day before I got him.

[Tassie]

A couple of things to read if you can get hold of them.

Patricia McConnell's book Feisty Fido , and Emma Parsons' book Click to Calm .

[MaggieDog]

I am the owner of a dog aggressive BC myself, and have gotten her from reacting to most dogs w/in 10 to 20 feet to being able to play w/ others after an estended intro period and no reaction unless there is close physical contact or super exhuberance w/in 3 feet. This process took almost 5 years, so I can't say there's an instant fix, but it can be doone.

 

That said, your dog has drawn blood, albeit early on in his exposure to dogs, and that shows me that his bite inhibition could be lacking - something to watch for in all doggie interactions. Maggie has drawn blood 3 times, twice on my parents dog (interbitch aggression, so quite different from normal dog-dog aggression) and once on a newly introduced dog; other than that her inhibition is pretty awesome.

 

What worked for Maggie and I was a 'work to earn' program so she learned to trust me, prevention of the ability to 'practice' the behavior (i.e. Maggie is NOT a dog park dog), and basic desensitization/counter conditioning so that she learned that when dog appeared, so did yummy treats.

 

It takes time, but in this type of situation, slow is fast.

 

You're lucky in one respect that your dog seems to do better off lead so you only have one situation to work on the behavior in, but I'd still be careful about his playing off lead since he does seem to have the predisposition to react.

[c robertson]

I am the owner of a dog aggressive BC myself, and have gotten her from reacting to most dogs w/in 10 to 20 feet to being able to play w/ others after an estended intro period and no reaction unless there is close physical contact or super exhuberance w/in 3 feet. This process took almost 5 years, so I can't say there's an instant fix, but it can be doone.

 

That said, your dog has drawn blood, albeit early on in his exposure to dogs, and that shows me that his bite inhibition could be lacking - something to watch for in all doggie interactions. Maggie has drawn blood 3 times, twice on my parents dog (interbitch aggression, so quite different from normal dog-dog aggression) and once on a newly introduced dog; other than that her inhibition is pretty awesome.

 

What worked for Maggie and I was a 'work to earn' program so she learned to trust me, prevention of the ability to 'practice' the behavior (i.e. Maggie is NOT a dog park dog), and basic desensitization/counter conditioning so that she learned that when dog appeared, so did yummy treats.

 

It takes time, but in this type of situation, slow is fast.

 

You're lucky in one respect that your dog seems to do better off lead so you only have one situation to work on the behavior in, but I'd still be careful about his playing off lead since he does seem to have the predisposition to react.

MaggieDog

Your dog sounds very much like my Chase. He will be 1 yr old this month. He is very aggressive with other dogs. The dog trainer I was working with says it is all fear motivated. (get the other dog before he gets me) He barks viciously and lunges with all his weight behind it. I can not correct him because there is no slack in the leash. All obedience goes right out the window. I have not tried off leash, because obviously I do not know how he will react. People look at me like I have some wild wolf dog. It is very difficult and up setting to me. Especially as my last BC was just the opposet. Obviously you have had some success. How did you use food to help?

[MaggieDog]

It's late, but I'll be sure to elaborate tomorrow. Right now, I highly suggest getting both "Feisty Fido" and "Fight" (both small books on dog aggression, one about onlead issues and one about other interdog related issues). Both use various desensitization and counterconditioning techniques. Another good one is "Click to Calm".

 

Are there any calm, well trained dogs around that you can "use" for training? Having a solid helper dog can be a great asset.