prosperia Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Jenna has a really bad looking spot on her back. It looks really ugly, I feel really bad that I didnt find it sooner. I need to know whether or not this is something that I can treat here at home or whether I need to take her in to the vet. I cant afford a vet visit right now, but I'll go if you guys think I should. I found it yesterday. What's wierd, I gave her a bath earlier, and I didnt see it then. From the looks of it, Im sure it was there, but how I missed it. .. The bath probably irritated it. She has fleas and I have given her two baths in the past week trying to help get rid of them. She chewed the hair off of it, and thats when I saw it. Her skin everywhere else is normal. What should I put on it? I have some dermalone ointment that my MIL gave me a while back when Allie cut her pad. I took these pictures just now. The coloring looks less red and inflamed than it did yesterday, and more infected looking. The spot seems to be centered around a hole in the middle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK dog doc Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 That does look like a hot spot, though bear in mind I'm not there and might miss something if I can't actually lay hands on the dog, and legally I can't diagnose or treat your dog over the internet,so this is just general information. What you do with it is up to you. In the clinic, we'd treat this by shaving the hair back until we see normal skin, and putting her on an antibiotic for the infection and/or a steroid (to control the itching, since it won't heal if she doesn't leave it alone), as well as treating for the fleas, which probably initiated the problem in the first place. Absent that, trimming the hair short so you can treat and so air can get to the lesions will make it easier, and you can try neosporin as a topical; that will help control the itching from the infection, but she has another reason to itch, which is the flea problem. Some hot spots are more suerficial than others, and the superficial ones can be more easily treated with topicals. Sometimes you need to deliver meds to the deeper tissue layers, which works better with orals. Bear in mind anything you put on her topically has the potential to end up in her mouth, so choose accordingly. Gotta get ready for work... good luck with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prosperia Posted October 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 After I put medicine on it, can I put gauze over it to keep her from licking it? Or should I leave it uncovered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebecca, Irena Farm Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 I'm unfortunately a bit of a hot spot expert, thanks to Ben the Allergy King. It's always best to go to the vet if you can, but I've found for a single outbreak, it mostly means the difference between the spot going away fast and going away slower. The big thing the vet can help you with is knowing for sure what caused it. The thing is that, even though you are thinking of fleas, it might also be the awful inhalent allergies that are rampant this year. In fact, a spot on the flank or back points more to inhalant allergies than fleas (belly, base of tail, feet are typical places you see flea allergy reactions). If it is "hay fever" your vet can prescribe an antihistamine to help with the itchiness. I think maybe if this one doesn't clear up pretty quickly if you address the flea problem to your satisfaction, or if she gets more, then it will be time to call the vet. Don't beat yourself up over it. Ben will literally create one of these things overnight. I've learned to jump to action when I see him itch just a little, or for sure he'll have a huge bleeding, oozing hole within twenty four hours. Oatmeal baths are splendid, by the way. Get Aveeno from the store, prepare it in the bath, then stand her in it and dip it over her for about ten to fifteen minutes (it helps if you can get hubby to spell you or you will not be able to stand after this!). The over the counter products that have worked best for me have been ones that contain serious painkiller (benzocaine or something like that) combined with tea tree oil. Tea tree oil smells nice to us, does a fantastic job of soothing and healing, and it tastes horrendous. It must be worse than those bitter sprays apparently, because Ben won't touch anything I put tea tree oil on but he doesn't care about bitter sprays. This is my absolute favorite: Petkin Itch Relief Stick This stuff has never let me down and Ben won't mess with a place once it's applied. Good luck! Ben says to tell Jenna he feels her pain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
libby-at-home Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Is there any chance that this could be caused by diet? Sophie gets skin problems whenever I feed her kibble that has a lot of grain products in it. Her hot spots don't seem to be connected to fleas as I use Advantage pretty regularly during the flea season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prosperia Posted October 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Im pretty sure its the fleas. The spot is pretty much at the base of her tail. They have gotten bad in the past couple of weeks. I havent been able to afford frontline, just the heartguard. I have been trying to control it with regular bathing. Even the cat got a bath yesterday. *edit to add* I thought about it being diet related. I had to switch to cheapo food, again-we are really broke right now. But I was thinking that if it was food related, it would have shown up quicker. She has been on this food for about 2months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebecca, Irena Farm Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 The food doesn't help but it's not that, entirely, I'm sure. Base of tail, yeah, it's fleas. That's the good news! Can you get over-the-counter dip for the fleas? Baths kill fleas but don't do much for control. Oh, I just remembered what my vet told me for cheapo flea control (we have been in your same boat all summer) - get a little bag of 5% sevin dust at your lawn and garden. Bathe her, make sure she's completely dry, then dust her and rub and brush it down to the skin. It's a BIG pain and makes the coat look kind of dull, but it does work. Don't forget to clean everything with really hot water and dust the whole house, too - including outside areas. We had a terrible problem this summer that struck right when we were at our most broke. The tip about sevin saved our lives. Have I mentione dhow much I love our vet? Since then I've been using neem oil with really good results but that has to be done about every ten days on everyone, plus anytime the dog gets wet. I finally broke down and purchased Frontline with the first money I got from my new job. Whew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prosperia Posted October 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 I dont know about a dip, but I do have shampoo thats supposed to kill fleas. I use it occasionally, but not everytime I bathe her because I worry about the chemicals. It says I can use it every three days. I used that shampoo yesterday, but it really doesnt do much. I think the bath itself helps the most. Ive heard of putting sevin dust in the yard, but not in the house or on the dog. I would think it would be dangerous. What is neem oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deanna in OR Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 If it is due to a flea allergy, and you know she has fleas, the topical flea meds like Frontline and Advantage can do wonders. Our old dog, a Golden mix, had horrible flea allergies--she would chew her butt and tail something awful--and we were always doing flea baths and dips, and bombing and spraying in the house (the spray was a Sevin-based spray designed to spray onto carpets for fleas). Then Frontline came along and the remaining 9 years of her life were much better, with no more flea-allergy hotspots. One thing that I learned about in dealing with this, pre-Frontline, that is less toxic, is diatomaceous earth (DE). It is a white powder, made purely of the fossilized skeletons of tiny one-celled algae called diatoms, non-toxic to mammals. You can sprinkle it on carpets and use a broom to brush it down into the fibers. It IS toxic to insects because it has microsopic sharp edges that cut the exoskeletons of fleas and other insects, causing them to dehydrate and die. Here's a website with more information: http://www.care2.com/channels/solutions/pets/835 http://www.motherearthnews.com/top_article...al_Flea_Control You can also use this on the dog itself, but just do it all cautiosly--even though there aren't chemical toxins in DE, it isn't good to get into either your lungs or your dog's lungs, at least not in any large quantity. The other thing that MIGHT help is to add Vitamin B-1 to your dog's diet in the form of Brewers Yeast, which you can sprinkle onto her food. There is controversy about whether this works, but all I know is that I, personally, am a total mosquito magnet unless I take large doses of B-1, and then then they completely leave me alone. It seemed to help our old Maile dog with her fleas. Deanna in OR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prosperia Posted October 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Thanks for the tips guys. Hopefully we can get them back on frontline after the end of this month. In the meantime, I found some benzocaine wipes in the first aid kit, and shaved the hair back and cleaned it good. It looks better already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurie etc Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Hey Maria - if you can get to a garden center, Diatomateous Earth is safe on/in and around animals - but it kills fleas and other insects with exterior skeletons. here's a link to info on it. http://www.biconet.com/crawlers/DE.html DE is not a chemical, so safe for cats too. I know people who feed it, and swear that it also kills internal parasites, but i haven't used it that way. You can dust it around where they sleep, in crevices, in doorways. Just try not to inhale it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebecca, Irena Farm Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 My vet did approve the 5% Sevin dust - and there's also directions on the package for use directly on pets. Neem is an insecticide and repellent - you can get a little bottle and it lasts forever, used as a dip. I never had much luck with the DE. Maybe the fleas around here have tough exoskeletons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keegan's Mom Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Maria, I have found that the Frontline at the vet is more expensive then online. I think I got it from petmeds, but can't remember. However, it is cheaper when bought in big batches. Plus you can usually find online a coupon for 10% off your first order. It was killing us every month to spend $80 at the vet - 4 frontlines (2 dogs and 2 cats - cats during tick season), 2 heartguards, and 2 interceptors. I found that everything but the cats' heartguard was cheaper online. So when we got a bunch of money - say from a bonus or something...or just unexpected money...we bought a six months supply. Hope this helps a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 I would have to agree with Rebecca about the Tee Tree Oils. I also have used Lavendar oil to ease itchies. Have you tried putting bag balm on the area? As far as ordering products "on-line" be careful. Remember, the HWP manufacturer will not stand behind most products bought outside the vet office. Sure, it may be a few dollars more at the vet, but if your dogs get HW you have no guarantee from the manufacturer. Karen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keegan's Mom Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Karen, So you are saying if I buy Interceptor (name brand) at the vet it is different than the Interceptor (name brand - same package, same box the vet pulls it out of, same everything) that it is not the same thing I get at the vet? Please explain. Thanks, Rachel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prosperia Posted October 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 The HW preventative is pretty cheap. Something like 3.50 per tab, so thats not a problem. Its the frontline that breaks the bank. Its an extra $45 a month if I treat both dogs and the cat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebecca, Irena Farm Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 If you buy from an online pharmacy it's supposed to be the same as the vet. I get my Hartgard from KVVet because my vet doesn't stock the kind I need. She faxes them a scrip and they keep it on file (I'm not sure when they'll update it, but they will eventually). It's not any less than my vet charged when she stocked it, though. I used to get bulk Interceptor for CBCR through my vet and that was about a 10% savings. That's the best deal I've ever seen on HW meds from anywhere I trusted. But I had to spend like $250 at one shot. :eek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barb Scott Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 If you do use Frontline, remember not to bathe her a few days before or after application! We've had great results using Frontline every 3 months for fleas. We use it more often if we're going out of state because of ticks. Wish I could send you some of ours! Barb S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keegan's Mom Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Yes, remember that Frontline is good for up to 3 months for fleas but has to be applied monthly to be affective against ticks. That is why we only treat the cats during the summer months. We we probably treat again this month for the dogs then not again until January then again in April monthly again during the warm "tick" months. Yes, Becca, I did have to spend about $250 at one shot, but like I said...we always do it when cash flow has increased for one reason or another...helps keep our monthly bills down. Oh, yes, my vet has to send petmeds a prescription in order for them to send me the goods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sue R Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Maria - Sorry to hear this. Problems can arise very quickly, I know. One thought about purchasing Frontline (or other products) from your vet is that you can often buy just one dose at a time. When you buy online, etc., you often have to buy a much larger package (three to six doses). When I am pinched for money, I go to the vet and can buy just what I need for "right now". Remember one method to cut down on the cost of Frontline (or similar "drop on" products). The cost of a dose for a very large dog is usually only about $1 more than the dose for a smaller dog. I buy the dose for 88-132# dogs, and divide it up. Some folks put the dose in a small, airtight container, draw off the correct amount with a syringe or eyedropper and apply, and tightly cover the container with the remaining material (to be used next month). You can calculate how many milliliters (ml) you need for your dog based on weight (and I don't have a package here to give you the info). For example, if your dog is 40#, instead of using the 25-50# tube, get the 50-88# tube, and apply just half this month and half next month. You would be paying about the same cost for two months as just one month using the smaller dose tube, plus about $1 to "upgrade" to the larger dose tube. You can store the extra dosage in an airtight container (a clean, small vanilla extract bottle might be a good container for you). I use a syringe to measure my doses, and store the extra in the syringe with the cap on. Frontline and Advantage do not require prescription although Heartgard and Interceptor do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maralynn Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 I have used Bio-spot for flea/tick prevention for the past two years with good results. it is MUCH cheaper than frontline - anywhere from $6 - $10 for a three dose package. Missy frequents the woods behind our house but has not had ticks or fleas on her this year. Hope Jenna feels better soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prosperia Posted October 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Sue, thanks for explaining the dosage. Ive been told I could buy the larger packets and divide it up, but I never knew exactly how much to use. I have a friend who is a vet tech who might be able to get the frontline for me a little cheaper. Ive asked him to get me some, but he has to wait until the vendor comes back to the office. Who knows how long that is going to take. If he ever does come through, I'll let you know so I can send some back to my anonomys donor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Rachael, I am not saying it's not the same thing only that the manufacturer (in 2 cases I know of first hand) did not stand behind their product when purchased on line. Even though they had the scrip from their vet. 2 other cases, the manu. stood behind one, paid all cost involved and not the other. The documentation proved that the other case was 15 days late on their refill. Vet's aren't upping the $$ much at all when they sell it. My vet will even match the 12 pack price that 1800PetMeds offers. It never hurts to ask...... I divvy up the doses on frontline and advantage all the time. One Xtra large is almost enough to do 3 of my guys per treatment. Karen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebecca, Irena Farm Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 The recommended dose for Frontline was discussed here. You'll note that Julie calculated that she can dose three dogs with the a single vial of the largest Frontline (it's 1.34 ml for the 40ish pound dog), while Melanie pointed out that there is a wide range in applicable weights for each dose and that she just eyeballs it when she splits the monthly dose. I've tried it both ways. I finally figured out to draw the Frontline through the rigid part of the packaging rather than the foil (duh) so now I prefer to measure it. It's easier to apply with the syringe on a squirmy adolescent puppy, of which I have three now (how DID that happen?). I do like Sue does, I store any leftover in the syringe with the cap on, in a brown paper bag in the med drawer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Journey Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Rebecca, I pour two doses into an old pill jar and then stick the syringe in the jar! Cap goes on the jar when we're done and back into the med cabinet. Karen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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