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Good Agility DVD'S


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I an not new to agility. I had a cocker that I showed for several years and she was kinda a Velcro dog. I lost her 3 yrs ago and I now have my first BC that is 17 months and we have the basics down.

I have went back and read older posts and like some of you don't always get my verbal cues right. She is doing amazing but I would like to get better on my handling skills. We are taking classes once a week. We run the full course then brake it down in half and work each half. The courses I'm running is advanced in practice but will be showing novice. Our first show is the end of September. Trying to get the front cross which I'm better at the rear. She will work some distance from me. For weaves on my off ( right ) side I will tell her out weave as we have done obedience so she is used to being on my left.

I learn things better if I can see it done. I basically understand what your saying in your examples. But would like to get some DVD's to watch.

I use wait on the contacts and some of the class uses bottom an their dog is in the 2020. Mine has all four on contact. Which have you guys found works better?

I'm building some jumps to have at home. Right now I only have a tunnel, teeter an two sets of 6 weave poles. I have a problem getting her to slow down for the table. Trying to use slow to get her to reduce her speed. Any suggestions? Have not tried it yet but was told to tell her down when she hits the table but not sure I can get it out in time.

We have practiced on the serpentine at a friends and twice in class. The first time in class she did awesome last week she figured out she could really run and had to much speed to get her turns. So looking for advice from people who have BC's and know their speed to help me.

Thanks

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It's late but my advice is to never slow down your dog. Work through the speed and drive.

 

I would do a lot of circle work exclusively in your right side for a few weeks, I wouldn't even do any left sided heeling at all for awhile. After she's really good at the right, balance it out between the two. Always work on both left and right, but a tiny bit more right.

 

Serps I like the / \ / \ / \ / method . Those are jumps and you straighten them slowly to a line. I think that's the way you do it.

 

Table should be auto down. Where do you trial? I know AAC in Canada just changed (or voted to) the table rule. It's now 4 paw, or will be soon. No big advice on the table as mine sucks at it, he has a hard time collecting and even when e collect and jumps into a full down he skids off of it. So until we get to masters I put him in a down right after the obstacle before the table and jog to it. (Breaking my slow rule, but it's causing shoulder issues and health comes first before training.) haven't yet tried that it trial setting, but he tends to before the same no matter where we are anyhow.

 

Verbals is just practice practice practice. Run courses without your dog, invision the course in your head and say all the words and visualize the dog running and you handling. Then actually run the course dogless. I also recommend running with a friend being your "dog" who doesn't know the course (no numbers) and only performs the way you handle.

 

Weaves, I like the 2x2 method for entrances. Practice all angles, with you both on the left and right, from far away to close away from her, sending to the weaves, lead out to weaves, you building up to slowly turning away and going to other direction (turn shoulders at at first build from there). Walk with her, run with her, run like a good, throw toys. Basically proof the crap out if them, to cent the understanding that the weaves are the same thing every time no matter what the handler is doing, where she is going or where you are coming from. I also like the channel method for refining speed and style.

 

Contacts are a preference thing. I like running contacts because A) 2o2o caused issues health wise in Jude. He had a fast stopped contact and even though I thought him to shift to his rear, it didn't help (aframe issues). B) I find stopping and releasing to much work for me as a handler , based in personal style. I like sending a dog to an obstacle and focusing on the next, I always forgot my release word and I wasn't disciplined enough to keep the stopped criteria.

 

The trick to a BC speed I think is obstacle independence and commitment. Train your dog to commit to an obstacle once cued no matter what you are doing, and teach them how to independently do it without rallying on you to babysit. Once you got that (wayyyy easier said than done lol), you can then not worry and handling/verbals get much easier. Running my baby dog is much easier than my 4 year old because he doesn't have the bad habits the oldest had by being my first dog. Very hard to untrain things.

 

DVDs depend on your handling style. But I really really like Silvia Trkman. Her foundations DVD (and online courses) are a wealth of knowledge. She also has a trick training for speed and conditioning video, which would help your dog develop the strength needed to turn at a high speed.

 

It's not just about the training, but you have to teach them to master their bodies as well.

 

:) have fun!

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as for dvds, I joined http://www.bowwowflix.com/, for a small fee I can rent as many dvds as I want, keep them as long as needed then return for a new one. gives me the opportunity to see a bunch of different techniques and handling systems. I can pick and choose the methods that work best for me and my dogs.

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I have also been a member of bowwwflix.com great service as Dvds can be a huge investment.

 

If the automatic down is worked through, taught with you close to the obstacle, increasing distance, running past, hanging back, etc. Then your dog should become accountable and start collecting their own stride as they approach so not to sail over or slide by.

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Ok twice I have tried to reply to this, and twice my bl--dy I pad has eaten it, so this my abbreviated version.

 

Bowwowflix is a great resourse.

 

An automatic position on the table is the solution, just depends on what venues you are planning on trailing in, what will work for you, we have an automatic down for USDAA.

 

I have read that 2o2o is a much clear criteria for the dog as his paws are on a different surface, all 4 on the contact surface is hard for them to figure out where the paws are supposed to be.

 

I have a very fast and very large border collie, he is my second dog and I was not remotely ready to handle his speed and power. Wha has helped us as a team is focusing on me... I have been taking Daisy Peels online handling classes, and there have been many lightbulb moments when various handling techniques started to make sense. Group classes are great, but I always found there was not enough time to really get to grips with why something was not right.

 

And the best advice I got was never slow your dog down, enjoy the ride!!!

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I have read that 2o2o is a much clear criteria for the dog as his paws are on a different surface, all 4 on the contact surface is hard for them to figure out where the paws are supposed to be.

 

And 4 on relies on the dog balancing in a sloping surface so is much less stable than the added support of front feet on the ground.

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Thank you for all the advice. I'm now a member of bowwowflix LOL. What dvd's did you guys find the most helpful? They all sound good.

I'm going to make a table this weekend so I can practice at home and hopefully will have my

jumps complete by then. Had to order the 5ways for the bases.

What are you feeling on the running contacts? As I said right now we are doing all 4 on but thinking of changing an how hard is it to retrain? We started when she was just about 10 wks on little things like a wobble borad. The new teeter we are working on she lays down in the middle. Not that I taught her that she just wasn't sure but she is getting better I just tell her wait on the contacts.

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Years ago I bought a small oak coffee table at a thrift store, sawed the legs off a bit as it was a little tall and glued an old yoga mat to the top. I think it cost me under $15 and was super stable. Unfortunately I tossed it when I moved to a place with a small yard :( but it worked great and was cheaper than building one, just a thought.

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