Fearfully bolting through doorway

[AerBear26]

Hi! I need some training tips to get my 10 month old BC to stop bolting though our door. Its not the front door its the door that leads to the sidewalk from our complex's courtyard. He initially walks out ok on leash to potty on the grass but BOLTS in panic as we approach the door and to re-enter the courtyard. he will walk calmly up to the door but bolt through in a panic. Ive tried stopping him mid bolt and pulling him back out to practice again. This makes it worse. Also tried going in and out over and over but it only becomes a rehearsal of the behavior not an imporvement. I doubt he'd take a treat or toy because its such a senseless panic mode he's not thinking at all.

 

Thanks !!

 

ps. i can post a video if needed!! as long as posting a video is simple on here..? hmm..

[ChantalB]

You need to reward the calmness way before he enters panic mode. You may have to be as far away as possible from the door, the minute he shows the pre warning signs of stress (even before that) reward, turn around the other way and play a bit. Then approach the door again and repeat. Very slowly move forward.

 

Find the spot where he will take treats (not frantically) and start from there.

 

In the meantime, carry him through the door to manage it.

[TEC]

Have your youngster practice sit and/or down at doors in general. Have him pause at all doors waiting for you to walk through in advance. Holding the door, you then invite him to pass the threshold. Teach a solid down or sit before beginning the exercise.

 

Practice of that kind will help him be ready for the courtyard door. To better prepare him for the difficult door, have your dog sit or down a number of times as he approaches it, or manage stress as described in post #2. I like ChantalB's suggestion to carry him through the courtyard door until he is reasonably ready to do it correctly.

 

I have found a pause at doors to be useful. It allows you to pass-through first in order to check for anything unusual that may startle your dog or otherwise be a problem. I transitioned the cue to "wait", and use it everywhere, including exiting narrow store aisles, to protect my dog from such issues as unruly kids and uncontrolled dogs. It's a way to build trust and confidence. -- Best wishes, TEC

[alligande]

What TEC says, I would also add the car to that as well no jumping out without permission. It's all about learning self control.

[Sue R]

So do I read it right that he does not have this issue at other doors/gates? Only at this one? Has he ever been hurt or startled or otherwise adversely affected at this entryway? Slamming door, foot or tail or nose smacked by the door? I have one dog that if something startles or hurts him, does not forget it for a while.

 

You have already gotten some very good advice from several previous posters.

 

First, is there another way to take him out to walk so that you can avoid *going through* this door while you work on redirectly his attention? If so, try using that entrance and work with him near but not going through the problem door.

 

Can you get him to focus on you well before you get near the door and his worries start? Using yummy treats, teach him to focus on your face. Walk him to the door, stop just before he begins to worry, treat for sitting and calmness, and turn around and walk away. Keep him on a very short lead so he can't get up any momentum and hit the end of the leash.

 

Can you just sit on the ground or stand near the door with him (not so close that he will worry), occupy his mind with some obedience and tricks and treats, and gradually reduce the distance from the door as he relaxes and calms (this should take some days, maybe longer, just like the previous exercise).

 

Some dogs that are reactive or otherwise fearful in some way, can benefit from being taught to "go to their happy place" when they begin to be worried. One friend taught her very reactive rescue Aussie to lie down flat to relax. It sounded like it wouldn't work to me (lying down is something that puts a dog in a vulnerable position) but she taught this dog to flop down and lie to calm when the dog just began to worry, and it made a world of difference for her. Sitting and lying on the chest can help do the same thing for many dogs if you teach them that that is a safe alternative.

 

There are people here who have had very anxious dogs, and I'm sure someone will chime in who can give you more specific approaches to dealing with this problem. Very best wishes!

 

PS - I wonder how long he's been like this. He is probably still in a fear stage period of life (around 8 months to maybe a year, it varies with the dog) and during these fearful periods, adverse situations make lasting (if irrational to us) impressions on a dog that may take some time to overcome.

[AerBear26]

Thanks so much guys! one thing i need to mention is that once he enters the sidewalk area from the evil door he is already in fear mode but not yet panic. He does not bolt through on his way out like I said but still cautiously. He will potty cautiously and then anxiously approach the door and even wait on command but I can't keep him from bolting through the door... He will not take treats or toys once outside that door on the sidealk. And thats where the problem is... And when i try to stop him he swings his back end around and pulls backward in utmost panic and even yelps...

 

I will try the suggestions even though he just will not focus once out of the courtyard that gate... Maybe the first problem to address is his fear of the outside world... maybe try to treat him before he even exits the courtyard right in front of the door to build positive association... then eventually treats or toys on the sidewalk.. though this will be a huge hurtle... THEN address the door going back in..... eventually...

 

He will not sit or down yet on command even for treats or toys... I have only had him a couple months and got him im guessing during his fear period so I am working on trust, love and more trust right now. I also had to teach him to play with toys and he is juuuust starting to get the idea. Treats do nothing for him right now... though i have no tried liver patte (suggested in the famous Kelso blog!

 

To answer your question Sue, yes he did have a bad experience on our sidewalk and probably IS in a fear stage. He was cautious always to go to the sidewalk (but its the only potty area!! He doesnt like how random people can appear at any time.... and it got worse when I had to take him potty during the fireworks... >_< . Had no choice... only potty area is outside our courtyard which is all asphalt... Soooo thats when the real trouble started. He just hates it outside our safe enclosed courtyard.

One more thought before I close!! I should try tiring him out before i even leave the courtyrard. Thankfully i CAN toss a ball around in the courtyard even though its asphalt. Just to set myself up for better results because he will have gotten some pent up energy out..

[Sue R]

Thanks for the clarification.

 

About training "sit" and "down" and such - you can start that from Day 1 with most any dog or pup, customizing your training approach for their age and condition. And you might find that training is an aid to building trust and confidence, and so there is no need to put it off. It is quality interaction between the two of you and helps build bonds, so don't wait. Of course, you want to be positive and not negative, particularly with a youngster that needs lots of trust-building and confidence-building like this one.

 

Treats. A subject in itself. Use high-value treats - string cheese bits, hot dog bits (very tiny, limited amounts), quality pre-made treats (Zuke's Salmon Mini-Treats are loved by my dogs, lots of appealing odor but quality ingredients, easily handled, small, and soft, all the best attributes in one treat). You can start by offering treats for nothing at all - just to whet the appetite or get him interested in them without any strings attached so there is nothing to put him off being interested. Just drop one on the floor or give one out of your hand. Keep the pressure non-existent initially. Then you can gradually introduce treats with training and with situations where you need his attention diverted to you.

 

It will take time but it will be worth it. Very best wishes!

 

PS - Be careful with fetch games on asphalt. It can be too hot for his feet and it can be very abrasive. Work up slowly and gradually, and check his pads frequently for wear and/or damage. But, since he's only 10 months old, he's not done growing bone yet and you need to avoid repetitive, high-impact activities, until he's done growing (around 15 months old). You can roll the ball for now but make sure he's not stressing his joints. Taking him on leash walks is still the best exercise you can give him.

 

Train him and teach him tricks - exercising his mind is more important than exercising his body, and will tend to tire him out more than plain physical exercise, too. So maybe some treat time, training time, trick time before walk time would be good. And maybe a little more after the walk, also. Give it a try.

 

 

Thanks so much guys! one thing i need to mention is that once he enters the sidewalk area from the evil door he is already in fear mode but not yet panic. He does not bolt through on his way out like I said but still cautiously. He will potty cautiously and then anxiously approach the door and even wait on command but I can't keep him from bolting through the door... He will not take treats or toys once outside that door on the sidealk. And thats where the problem is... And when i try to stop him he swings his back end around and pulls backward in utmost panic and even yelps... ...

...He will not sit or down yet on command even for treats or toys... I have only had him a couple months and got him im guessing during his fear period so I am working on trust, love and more trust right now. I also had to teach him to play with toys and he is juuuust starting to get the idea. Treats do nothing for him right now... though i have no tried liver patte (suggested in the famous Kelso blog!

[AerBear26]

Thanks for the clarification.

 

About training "sit" and "down" and such - you can start that from Day 1 with most any dog or pup, customizing your training approach for their age and condition. And you might find that training is an aid to building trust and confidence, and so there is no need to put it off. It is quality interaction between the two of you and helps build bonds, so don't wait. Of course, you want to be positive and not negative, particularly with a youngster that needs lots of trust-building and confidence-building like this one.

 

Yes thanks Sue. I agree with you that training is the best way to build trust but I did try it in the bgeinning. I tried high value treats and he would take them but with no enthusiasm. I had to push his but down for a sit (luring into sit did not work as he didnt care for the treats) some dogs are just not treat motivated especially he was overwhelmed with his new surroundings. The sessions were not rewarding for either of us. I remember in the Kelso story he was hard to motivate as well so sometimes just taking it slow and building the relationship other ways is what works for some dogs. We have bonded since then and I will try some obedience training again. Right now he is most motivated by toys (which took time to get him to even like toys..)

[AerBear26]

But in your defense sue I did not do enough of the offering treats with no strings attatched thing! great tip for future rescues and for now with this dog even

[Sue R]

The "no strings attached" approach was shown to me by folks I used to work with in providing puppy and family dog classes. But the method used initially (holding a treat in a hand behind or to the side of the person, without any eye contact with my very shy youngster) was not totally "no strings attached" because my youngster still had to approach my friend, who was being very non-confrontational. When we went to her dropping a treat and walking away (initially) so he could come and pick it up while being in his own "comfort bubble", we began to make some progress (and we did use this with other dogs that were extremely shy or apprehensive, and it was a successful first step for many).

 

DH really, really wanted to make friends with this 12-week-old youngster when I first brought him home, but Bute would have *nothing* to do with DH, who was then disappointed and frustrated. But one day, after several weeks of Ed trying to make friends with Bute, Bute just came up to Ed in the kitchen (*Ed was at the counter with FOOD*) and bingo! Friends forever. But Bute did it at his own speed and when he was comfortable.

 

Sometimes, you can't wait for a dog to feel it's his "right time". The other thing we did with Bute was that I realized that he was learning that he could get treats over and over again, without having to make progress of his own. The friend kept dropping treats, offering treats behind her back, etc. He was not having to progress and so one day, I had him on leash, walked over to her, handed her the leash and said I was going to the bathroom. Next thing I knew, when I came back out, was that he was sitting on her feet, plastered to her legs. Any port in a storm, so to speak. I left him, he had no choice, he had no reason to be afraid of her after all the many times she had treated him with almost no strings attached, and he decided that without me there, she would certainly be a safe spot.

 

And after that experience, I could take him to meetings and just let him loose. Other trainers would sit or stand quietly, have a treat ready (or not), and he would sidle up, sit by them, get a treat, get a pet, even put his head on their knee. He was never, ever a "friendly" dog but he was no longer a "frightened" dog because he had, over time and with thoughtful effort, learned that people were okay.

 

Hopefully, your dog will learn that that gateway is okay, that going out is okay, that coming home is okay, and that nothing is cause for panic. D'Elle's story of Kelso wonderfully illustrates the healing power of kind, considerate, and thoughtful training.

[Beach BCs]

Sometimes, you can't wait for a dog to feel it's his "right time". The other thing we did with Bute was that I realized that he was learning that he could get treats over and over again, without having to make progress of his own. The friend kept dropping treats, offering treats behind her back, etc. He was not having to progress and so one day, I had him on leash, walked over to her, handed her the leash and said I was going to the bathroom. Next thing I knew, when I came back out, was that he was sitting on her feet, plastered to her legs. Any port in a storm, so to speak. I left him, he had no choice, he had no reason to be afraid of her after all the many times she had treated him with almost no strings attached, and he decided that without me there, she would certainly be a safe spot.

 

And after that experience, I could take him to meetings and just let him loose. Other trainers would sit or stand quietly, have a treat ready (or not), and he would sidle up, sit by them, get a treat, get a pet, even put his head on their knee. He was never, ever a "friendly" dog but he was no longer a "frightened" dog because he had, over time and with thoughtful effort, learned that people were okay.

Sorry to hijack, but...Sue, that's excellent. I'm going to start doing that with Faith at class. Thanks!

[TEC]

...I will try the suggestions even though he just will not focus once out of the courtyard that gate... Maybe the first problem to address is his fear of the outside world...

 

His focus on you as his leader/protector will build as you develop the fundamentals of discipline -- a sit, lie down, and recall. Handlers utilize food, toys/play or lots of upbeat praise as motivators. Each dog likes different things or combinations of reinforcements. As mentioned in numerous other threads, training should be fun, like a game for you and your pet. Maintaining a play-like atmosphere keeps training more enjoyable for both parties. Give it a try on-your-own. You can always sign-up for training classes if it is not working, and they can help with ideas based upon actually seeing the two of you interact.

 

While working on basic commands at home, your dog can be walked around the neighborhood, parks, and near entrances to stores. Once he responds to your cues, you can practice them on walks. Until his leash walking improves, I would suggest a harness-like collar, as it will prevent pulling his head through, such as can happen with a common flat neck collar (you remarked that he sometimes swings around toward you pulling on his leash in panic, which often is prelude to slipping a collar off) . Gradual exposure to lots of new things, sounds, smells will slowly grow a well-adjusted confident dog.

 

The training will be well worth the effort, as it will be fun, and you will develop a more confident friend who is easy to take places. -- Kind regards, TEC

[TEC]

Deleted duplicate post to above. -- TEC

[AerBear26]

Thanks Sue and TEC!

[Sue R]

Remember to give Faith enough time to show progess or, if she doesn't, enough time that she really can understand that the other people working with her are "okay". Most dogs I've seen will progress with gentle, non-assertive techniques. I think that Bute was just smart enough to realize that he could have his treats and remain "shy" at the same time. It made an easy out for him as he was not having to show progress but still able to continue getting rewards. But we did give him time enough (several classes) before I made him (me?) bite the bullet by handing over the leash.

 

Remember, you know your dog better than anyone - that is, if you understand "dog" and *your dog* both. Many people don't but once you start learning (there are great videos and good instructors should help you even more so), it opens your eyes to a whole new world and the "language of dog".

 

I hope this works for you and Faith! It is a technique that worked for Bute and for several other, very shy or anxious, dogs that I worked with in class. In fact, I became the default instructor for the shy dogs in our classes. Either that or the head instructor was happy to have me out of the way in a back corner...

 

Sorry to hijack, but...Sue, that's excellent. I'm going to start doing that with Faith at class. Thanks!

[Journey]

Why not just pick him up, walk through the scary part, put him down and move on? You need to get some positive and I'd change the way you go through the gate to begin with. Nothing wrong with picking him up. Then when that's a piece a cake ask him to go through on his own feet. The kind of trauma he went through will be there for a bit if you don't stop the behaviour/action. Help him out, pick him up.