Teaching new BC to walk nicely on leash

[John F.]

Greetings! I recently adopted a 5 month old BC. I also have a 11 year old BC. The new puppy has plenty to learn as far as going for a walk. He pulls this way and that and pulls ahead. He is interested in everything that moves! You have BCs so you know what I mean!

 

This is my third BC so I am not new to the breed. But I am still learning and always will be. I have been re-reading material on teaching him to walk on a 'loose leash'. We have a long way to go!

 

My question is, what is the best way to get started training him to walk nicely, considering I have another older BC? Should I take the new dog and my other BC on separate walks for now while I am training him?

 

I read that any time he pulls ahead I need to stop, get him settled, even turn the other direction, but the idea across that we aren't going anywhere if he pulls ahead. But we are not going to get very far on walks for quite a while at this rate! My other BC walks very nicely on leash. I'm sure I went through this with her but I need a refresher course!

 

Thanks for your help on dealing with a new, young dog on walks with an existing older dog.

 

Thanks in advance!

[Sue R]

I'd suggest that you walk them separately. I have multiple dogs and when you are training certain things, one-on-one with minimal distractions is definitely a plus.

 

You may not get much "mileage" when you practice stopping or changing direction, but you will be training - and, at this point, that is essential. Plus, she's moving all the time (unless she's sniffing) so she is getting some distance in steps even if not as the crow flies.

 

For you to be random (stops, turns, reverses, moving off at different angles) will help teach her to pay attention to you and not simply her own agenda. Treats can be another good way to help encourage her to be attentive to you and reward good behavior.

 

We have two kinds of walks - the kind where I am going from here to there and the dog is accompanying me, and the kind where the dog is having the chance to sniff and explore, and I am accompanying him. Whichever we are doing, he should be polite and not pulling because if he does, I stop or go in another direction, whether we are walking closely or on a very loose lead.

 

Best wishes!

[John F.]

This is very helpful. I worry that he isn't getting enough exercise if we are never 'going anywhere' while teaching him not to pull. I need to be patient about it, I know. He is also incredibly inquisitive about EVERYTHING.

 

Would it help to start this training in the back yard which is fenced before even trying to go along the street? I also want to be socializing him so I don't want to have him never meet people and things in the neighborhood.

 

Thanks!

[Sue R]

Mental exercise, or learning, is generally more tiring than just physical exercise so your training is a very worthwhile use of both your time.

 

A backyard, since it offers fewer distractions, would be a good place to start (or even in the house or a similar, confined place). Once he gets the idea of paying attention to you, he can "graduate" to a more distracting environment for training.

 

The three Ds are distance, duration, and distractions. Whenever you try something new, you want to minimize the three Ds - in this case, a short (or shortened) lead, shorter training periods, and fewer distractions. As you and he master one level, you can move on to the next.

 

By all means, if you want to take him for a walk, do so - but just stop and change direction if he pulls and make sure you continue to train in a less-distracting environment, like your yard.

 

Remember, too, that at five months of age, he is entering the teenage phase and all training can be a bit more difficult for a while, but it will be worth it. He is still a bit like a sponge and all your interactions will be a certain amount of training, intentional or not - and even if you feel like pulling your hair out because he is becoming a dog version of a teen!

 

Best wishes!

[John F.]

This is very helpful, Sue. I really appreciate it. Great thoughts on distance, duration, distractions. It makes me realize how well my older BC does! Teenage years. Oh boy....

 

Here is a picture of Jack (the dog in front) and our older BC, Keri.

 

Thanks,

John

 

[ChantalB]

I start dogs out on a head halter and they graduate when I see fit or it. Sometimes it goes back on in certain environments. Though I go through plenty of training to introduce the hh. Gives me more control to redirect, though I try to be acutely aware of my environment so I don't have to redirect in the face of stimuli intensely and I very much try to be in environments where he can learn and slowly up the "focus is harder places" lessons

 

Or you could try the silky leash method (easier to YouTube it and watch a video to explain).

 

 

 

M

[Jexa]

Great advice here, I'll reemphasize definitely don't be afraid to go back to basics, as Sue says. Training isn't linear. Especially since he's in the teenage phase, you may see quite a bit of what seems like regression, even after developing rock solid basics. If he graduates to a distracting walk but then has a bad day or week, just rework the fundamentals at a lower level before going back to the more distracting environment. Don't let it frustrate you.

 

Also don't forget you need your dogs to be fine being left while you take their buddy, be it to the vet or what have you, so think of separate training as training for both dogs: one to work on his leash skills, the other to be reminded it's ok to be left behind. Even with one behaving wonderfully, it's near impossible to train a pup with his buddy around. When your puppy is walking great on the leash by himself, you can add in your other dog as another distraction and eventually enjoy walks with both.

 

I've found that 15 minutes of mental stimulation will wear a puppy out faster than 60 minutes of physical exercise...so don't stress too much about whether he's getting enough exercise. And cute photo!

[John F.]

Jexa - thanks so much. Very good advice. I appreciate your thoughts on training the dogs that its ok to be left while the other dog goes out. I tend to feel guilty leaving my 11 year old dog behind, with those big eyes looking at me, while I take the new pup outside! But it is good in the long run I know.

 

I can see where 15 minutes of mental stimulation is more taxing that an hour of physical exercise. I can

relate!

 

Thanks on the photo!

[Sue R]

Jexa made some really good points.

 

If you have dog crates, leaving the pup in his with something to occupy him while you walk your older dog is one option. A frozen stuffed Kong, a good chewie, a good raw bone - all good alternatives to keep him busy.

 

It is real easy to either slack off on interacting with the older, trained dog while having to devote time to the youngster, or to get sloppy and take shortcuts with the youngster in an effort to make time for the older dog. It requires discipline to put in quality time with both.

 

The youngster needs it now to build a firm foundation for being a mannerly, enjoyable dog for years to come. The oldster simply needs it because it's been part of her life and she needs to maintain her sense of being wanted, needed, and cared for.

 

I have been guilty of both omissions at one time or another, but I am sure you will avoid shortchanging either dog by putting in the effort to do right by both. Soon enough, when the youngster has progressed sufficiently, you may be able to walk with both again and that will free up some time for other, one-on-one work with each.

[John F.]

Yes, Jack is crated trained. So that is a good idea to crate him while I walk to the older dog.

 

I took Jack out by himself this evening for 15 minutes. The session went the best it has since I have had him. All of your ideas really helped. One thing that I am hearing is that there is no rush and I need to take my time. I have to keep remembering that. And Jexa's thought that Jack is going into his 'teenage years' is good to remember.

 

My walk tonight with Keri, the older dog, was especially good. Makes me appreciate how well she walks on leash. I trained her too, its just been a while! I needed this refresher course.

 

Wow, this was my first question on this forum and you have all been very helpful. Great start on this forum!

 

John

[Sue R]

I have found myself to be "spoiled" by an older dog, forgetting that it took work when the dog was younger to get him/her to be so enjoyable when he/she was older. Kind of like with children, how you forget all the baby inconveniences until the next one comes along.

 

As fun as pups can be, I have found my most enjoyment in my dogs comes with maturity - they change (it seems to me) about the ages of one, two, and three years of age - and I like each one better when they hit another level of maturity.

 

Enjoy!

 

PS - And don't forget the "search" function at the top of the page. It's great for locating past topics that pertain to your current questions.

[gonetotervs]

Shirley Chong has the best method for teaching loose-leash walking that I ever ran across -- go to her website www.shirleychong.com to see for yourself. Basically, the first thing you is teach the dog to give in to leash pressure using a clicker, marker word, etc., generally while seated in a room, and then very slowly start the dog off walking around the house, the yard with no distractions, etc. on build up on this. It worked with my pup; the trick is not to let yourself pull on the leash and initiate an opposition reflex. But dogs learn to pull easily, so best to not let it get to be a habit.

[John F.]

I will check out Shirley Chong. Sounds good. Dealing with the 'exuberance' of a 'teenage' puppy is definitely a challenge. But he is a good dog. Our last couple of dogs were adult rescues so its been a long time since we have had a puppy!