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Best way to drive fence staples?


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The guy next door works for a company that does fencing contracts for the EPA - erosion conservation stuff on farms. They've gots tons of really neat toys but they just hammer in those staples by hand. He can do it in like two hits - and they use the huge staples!

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I don't know about a power stapler, but when we built our fence I found that if I used a fencing tool (the one that lets you pull stapes, kinda an oversized pliers) I could hold the stapes with it sideways while driving them in with a hammer. That little trick prevented me from having to hunt a ton of staples that previously had been deflecting off the post.

 

Deb

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I think the type of staple matters too - we used two different types, purchased at two different places, when we put in our 20 acre paddock. One of the types tended to "bend"/flatten if you pounded it too hard or the wrong way, while the other kept its shape pretty well. Seems that the "better" staple was narrower . . . Unfortunately, I don't remember any other characteristics that distinuished the good staples from the bad. I think the good staples were purchased from Wellscroft . . .

 

I really didn't find the staple pounding that big a deal. The part I hated the most was twisting the wires (in the woven wire fence) to attach them to the end posts - I've found out since that there is a tool available to do that and I might consider renting it when we put in fence in the future.

 

Kim

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What is the fastest/easiest way to drive fence staples?

 

For me it's sweet talking my DH and maybe a little bribery.

No wait...you are the DH! :rolleyes:

 

I to found that the kind of staple you get is what makes the job easier than pulling teeth. The one that bends over when your pounding is off just a bit will kill you quick, We use big ones, that seem to go in straight with little pounding. But I also like the smaller thick one, for non corners. Then it comes down to how hard is the wood you're pounding into. We had an old barn back in MO, the wood was wonderful old oak. Couldn't pound anything into it tho. Sounds like that's the type wood Mark might have being such an old place. We ended up predrilling piolet holes to get anything to really go in.

 

There is a cool little tool that I was told about that will twist the wire for you with easy pressure. I've seen it, it's tiny, the size of a small screwdriver, but never found one to buy.

 

What type tool are you talking about Kim?

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Here's the one I saw: Mechanical wire twister

 

A little too pricey to purchase now (but, honestly, I'd consider it if we were taking on a large project again). We're located in a rural area and I'm always surprised how many tools are available to rent (or borrow from our local Cooperative Extension - we can borrow a POST POUNDER here!). I just looked and Wellscroft has the winders available for rental - not sure if that is for out-of-state people too . . .

 

Kim

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Must have been the wire twisting tool that I was told about cause it was cheap. The job it did looked way better than what we've ended up with but it also didn't help get the wire around the posts, it only helped twist it around it's self.

I never thought about renting small tools. That's a great idea!

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Get your husband to do it. You see, Renee had it all figured out. :rolleyes:

Hah! And Mark always thought he was the brains of the operation. Reality check!

 

PS - Look for fencing staples that are heavy-weight, have points that aren't bendy-looking, and are fairly narrow at the top. They drive better than broader ones, lighter ones, or ones with sloppy sharp tips.

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Okay, I've got it. You invite twenty of your closest friends and tell them all to bring a hammer. And a dog or two. I hope getting a puppy from y'all counts as "close friendship!" :rolleyes:

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I dunno. That HoneyDo brand comes w/ a lifetime warranty and has more extra features than a Ronco Veg-O-Matic Slicer and Dicer. Admittedly I it can make a loud kind of whining sound when worked too long or hard, though.

 

(Mark - please do not repeat any of this to Jeff, or I am in big trouble. :rolleyes: )

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I just hang on to the staple with a needle-nose pliers, and whack with a hammer. When we put up our new chicken house and used about a million staples, I put the staples in an old fanny pack so I didn't have to keep chasing the bin around. That was a big help- especially after I knocked the tub over for the third time.

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What is the fastest/easiest way to drive fence staples?

Is there a pneumatic staple driver for fence staples?

 

Mark

Perhaps by utilizing an alternative fastner then staples would be a solution?

What type of fencing are you building?

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Hey, hey, I'm up for a fencing party!!! I know nothing about woven wire but I can learn. My husband says I can learn. He says that's the difference between a zombie and an amoeba. A zombie can't learn but an amoeba can. I think it was a compliment...

 

The offer stands to help!

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  • 3 weeks later...
I knew there had to be a catch with the stapler. It looked to easy.

 

 

Doesn't make sense to use a stapler. Use long staples. Don't hammer them in all the way so you can pull the wire through later when you are repairing busted wire. Woven wire? Maybe, but every post will have a different surface. It's a good idea never to hammer a staple in all the way, just far enough so the wind doesn't pop them out. ALL fences will have to be repaired eventually. Once you have had to repair a fence with hammered down staples, you will never do it again. In the case of 100 year old, petrified cedar posts - you just about have to use the same holes the last staple came out of - otherwise, you will bend any type of staple, smash your fingers and go crazy. Just don't tie the woven sheep wire up on to the top wires - eventually it will pull the whole fence down. Get yourself set up with staples in an open sack on your belt, a hammer and bullnose fence pliers. Get the pliers with the skinny tips so you can get them under staples. It goes really fast. The top of an old boot works very well for staples - cut the top off the boot, staple an oval piece of wood into the bottom to hold it open, hang it off your belt by the tab at the top of the boot. You will need these three things plus a stretcher no matter what you do. Where are you going to put the staple gun? I think eventually it's going to hold you up. How will this thing be powered? Batteries? 18v batteries cost about $80.00. For a full day (maybe 12-16 hours on a ranch) you might need two or three of them. Remember if your whole fence is wooden posts there is no ground. You can get zapped by lightening from miles away. I have seen cattle all zapped after standing in groups with their noses on the fence. This is the wonder of bovine brain behavior.

 

I have done a lot of fencing and also inspected right of way fence construction on highway projects. No matter how much money there is to spend (sometimes $2.50/linear foot), I have never seen anyone use a staple gun.

 

Almost forgot the most important part of the fencing pep talk - after a couple of weeks you will stop nailing your glove to the fence. For a while you will feel dumber than a post, but it gets better with practice.

 

Have fun,

Janeinthemtns

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Best method I've seen is to invite a bunch of us over, and then let me try to hammer them in. Within short order Julie P's housemate will become disgusted with my ineffective banging and cussing, and then will do them for us all. Very effective.

 

Work is always more fun when you abuse your friends... er... I mean have friends over. :rolleyes:

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