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beachdogz

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Everything posted by beachdogz

  1. Diane OMG....wow...do not apologize. What great training info!! Thank you for being so specific on what you would do and would not do. Good example of why these boards are worth their weight in gold. The training information here is invaluable. Thanks for taking the time to write all that out! I am again excited to get to class next week and see what the poles bring.
  2. Beautiful story. Beautiful Dog!! Thank you for sharing.
  3. Well, I've actually tried analyzing that, thinking that when running a course, I was not close by and not paying attention. But then when I would isolate the poles, focusing on them, it still happened. I've also tried analyzing my frame of mind, and it has happened too many times in too many instances, so I could not pinpoint attitude. I don't get frustrated with the dog itself because I've been doing this a long time and know this is all a part of learning. I'm not trialing, so there is no pressure to get something done. I totally expect to have this problem crop up again sometime in the next couple weeks. I can't believe I solved the problem, since I did nothing different to work on it. However, Parker did this very same thing and simply outgrew it. Maybe it just takes her longer to outgrow things. Time will tell and I'll keep you posted. However, here is another question to ponder. When doing a segment with poles (or any other obstacle), and they make a mistake, what do you do? Do you take the dog back and re-do the obstacle immediately after they make the mistake; do you wait till the end of the segment and then re-do it, or do you just continue on with the class and not re-do it at all? I've been doing a lot of internet searches and videos about training, and this is the one thing I've noticed. At a seminar or a webinar, the speaker will show you how they teach an exercise and then how they execute the exercise - but rarely do they go into what they do to fix it when the dog does not do it. It's almost as if they are saying, "well, if you do it my way, your dog will not have problems"....and we all know that is not the case.
  4. UPDATE: Well, I could hardly wait to get to class this afternoon. I set up the practice poles with the last two wider, to try later. I then asked the instructor to video us doing the regular weave poles -- once on lead (which she always does perfectly) and then once off lead (which is when she always pops out on the last two poles.) Well, she did them perfectly both times. So we tried again. And again. All perfect. Then we tried putting in a jump before them. Perfect. Then we tried adding the tunnel after. Perfect. Then we tried a small segment. Once again, perfect. I think we ended up with 8 videos of perfect poles. So I want to thank all of you for fixing this problem for me. I don't know how you did it, but it worked well! I'm not naive enough to think the problem has disappeared, but I do now have the ideas of widening the last two poles or using the guide wires if and when this pops up again. But until then, mission accomplished. LOL
  5. Well, duh, I misunderstood the term "wider" and was thinking keeping them in a straight line, but more spacing on the last two. I can easily widen the last ones using the beginner channels that we have! thank you! I did start with channels, did not use guide wires, but I do have guide wires from way back when. I had thought of them, but wondered if it might cause further problems since I had never used them on these puppies. Not trialing, so no problem there! Oh, wow. Never thought of videoing. Gonna do that tomorrow at class. Then going back to the channel/v weave poles and starting with that. Gonna save the guide wires if all else fails. Thank you all so much for so much valuable information!! Can't wait for class tomorrow to start all this!
  6. Does this only happen when you are gone? If so, can you set up a web cam (they are amazingly inexpensive nowadays) and see what triggers it (noise, fear, boredom)? I would suggest a crate, but only if she has been crate-trained and you know she will not try to escape the crate. I have seen dogs seriously injured trying to (successfully) get out of a crate. Once again, this is why I think I would want a camera on my dog to see what the trigger is. If she is not used to being crated, then you will need to start slowly, build-up crate time, and then monitor it to make sure she does not try to escape the crate. If she is good in a crate, then don't feel sorry for her. She can do a lot of harm to herself breaking through glass. You need to keep her safe. As for the yard, I would never leave my dogs alone, unsupervised in a fenced-in yard that they might be able to escape from (by jumping/climbing) and especially if the public could access that fence. I would be afraid of someone taking the dog or harming the dog by throwing something in. I might consider that if it was a 6-foot privacy fence. I agree that invisible fences will not stop a dog from leaving - and also do not stop others from coming in. Please keep us posted as to her progress.
  7. Thank you. She will pull out in both instances. At first when it started, we thought it was the distance I was away from her. So I went back to staying close as she weaved, but she still exited before the last two poles. I train at class in a building, so the poles are stationary on a "track". I don't believe I can change the distance of the last two poles on those. I do have the Cool Runners portable weave poles at home that I used to train via the channel method. I possibly could move those last two poles on those, but they would be wider and not in line with the other poles. I'm not sure if that would help or hurt. Never heard of a Treat & Train, but now I'm curious and going to look that up. She is not toy-driven....just food driven. Not sure if throwing the treat at the end will help? If so, I could try that.
  8. I'm having a problem with Piper's weave poles and wondering if anyone has any suggestions for fixing it. She was doing the weave poles just fine. Then, a couple months ago, she started exiting before the last two poles. If I put her on lead, she flies through them perfectly. It's when she's off lead -- both on the course and/or when I just am doing a skills practice. It's always the same place. She exits before the last two poles. It's driving me crazy! Parker went through the exact same thing, which I chalked up to immaturity/wanting to get to the next obstacle faster -- but his simply went away and his weaves are pretty spot-on now. Piper just doesn't seem to be coming out of this phase. I've tried to thread her slowly when training, but it is darn near impossible. She doesn't have a slow switch, and still barrels right through them. I'm afraid this may now have become a pattern/habit. Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Thank you.
  9. Thank you all. I am not interested in pursuing it; I was just curious as to how seasoned BC owners/trainers perceived it, since I had never heard of it. Agility, Search Class and Barn Hunt keep us busy enough! lol
  10. Saw this mentioned in a recent post, and I had to Google it because I had never heard of it. I did a search on this site, but because of the nature of the search engine, I got too many results for "sheep" "ball" and "game." So I am asking this in a new post. I am wondering if anyone who has been in the breed for years has any thoughts on this game and whether it is (or would be) beneficial, detrimental, or neutral for a dog to participate in this type of game.
  11. I was being a bit facetious when I posted that photo. He loves that ball and loves to pitch it around. He loves to get his nose up under it and hoist it over the baby gates. then he likes to do his seal impression and try to balance it on his nose. I even bought him his own child's basketball hoop so he could put it in the basket. The "hang-up" was purely accidental, I believe (I was not in the room; came in to find it hanging on the door.) I left it there for a couple days while he studied it, wondering how it got there and how he should go about getting it off of there. When it landed there, it pulled the door out of the clasp. Therefore, any time he tried to remove it, the door would come open "after him". It was hysterical watching him try to figure it out.
  12. I would like to know more information on his past. Is he a rescue, or did you get him as a puppy? What age was he when you got him and where did you get him? When dealing with a rescue, many times it is impossible to know the dog's past and what led up to his behavior. However, if gotten as a puppy, it is helpful to analyze what has led up to his behavior at the moment. I cannot access the link at the end on either of my computers. Is it a video?
  13. My dog hangs his toys up when he is done playing....does yours? LOL
  14. Thank you everyone. D'Elle, I'm just curious as to why you said you can use Charlee Bears "occasionally" - are they not good to use consistently in training? I've never heard of these before. I've tended to avoid carrots, as they seemed to stick in my other dogs throats.
  15. To answer your female in season question, I always isolated my bitches for the full 21 days from the first sign of blood. Then bathed them up and life returned to normal. Never had a problem with that scenario.
  16. Hi Everyone Looking for ideas on low calorie training treats to buy (I don't bake, so no homemade ones.) Yep, turned around and suddenly I had an overweight dog. Can't believe I let that happen!
  17. Yay. Sounds like a great beginning. Braunschweiger was always my go-to High Value Reward. And I have to admit - I actually like it, too. LOL to $85.00. Been there/done that.
  18. I am so excited for you and I applaud you for taking the initiative and doing the work! I look forward to the updates on Tucker. Having an owner that recognizes the problem AND then actively works at the solution is refreshing!!
  19. ahhh, so that answers my question in the other post. The vet's office may be one place that triggers his anxiety, however, it is not just a vet's office problem; it is a temperament problem. Totally agree with all of gcv's post....probably not all your fault, but you must deal with the whole problem at hand. I would definitely explore the Denise Fenzi class on line. Also prepare to get him out a lot once you have a plan to work with him on his reactivity. While it is a lot of hard work, if successful, you will find it very rewarding as you embark on changing his behavior and helping him navigate this world successfully. Has he been to any kind of a class or trainer? Are you able to do so? Just remember that it will take time and don't expect a complete change quickly. You will need to be vigilant, but I think we all need to be vigilant when owning a dog....even with a dog that displays no temperament problems. Keep us posted and best wishes for success.
  20. I think this is the best advice of the whole thread. I'm not a stock person, but the first sentence seems logical. Too often I see people say that a re-homed dog usually adjusts within 6 months, but we all know that every dog is different. With my Kylie, it was (seriously) more like two years before I saw the dog she really could be. I'm guessing the problem is that you had your heart set on herding. I'm thinking that unless you purchase a dog that is already proficient in herding, you are never guaranteed that will happen either with an untrained, young dog or even a puppy from excellent herding lines. So I think it might be wise not to take him back to sheep for a while and just let him mature with you; then try him out later. You have a lot of experience with dogs and training....I have no doubt that you will be fine.
  21. Tucker is beautiful! Wouldn't have guessed a skin/coat problem from the picture. How is Tucker's temperament with other people outside of the vet's office? Is Tucker a Covid pup that suffers from lack of socialization? Or is he great with everyone, and just nervous at the vet's office? Has he been to an obedience class and been trained - or is currently being trained? I agree that you will have to do some exploring as to which food might be best for him, and it is very frustrating to keep trying dog foods, I know. But hang in there. I also have heard good results from Apoquel. Depending on any prior or current training, if he is not enrolled anywhere, I would look into obedience or agility training for him, or even nosework. Working with him will give him confidence and may help you with handling him at the vet. He also may need a lot of socialization. I also agree with desensitizing him at the vet's office. You said that he was going to the vet for the past 3 years. Was he always good for the vet, except the last 2 times? Was there anything different about those visits? I adopted a dog that would not let the vet touch her for the first year or two. She was not a biter, but we didn't push it. Obedience and agility classes gave us both the confidence to tackle those problems. My vet was amazed when she could actually examine her, and I credit that to her non-stop classes. Best of luck! Don't lose hope!
  22. It actually makes me feel better to know that this is not uncommon. thank you! We are working at it!
  23. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! Have never used (or heard of) a snuffle mat, but I'm gonna get one. I had tried doing obedience exercises away from the ring during our down time to stop her behavior, however, it did not take up enough time. Also, I questioned that while taking her focus off the ring, it was not teaching her to remain quiet. There is so much down time at class, I like to sit and watch what everyone else is doing - or just talk to everyone else sitting there. This extremely annoying behavior (to me, and I'm sure, to others) was stopping that. I have seen people using tug toys at class to keep their dogs occupied, but mine aren't "tuggers" and I'd rather they learn to stay quiet. I will be searching "teaching calm". And I will be researching and getting a snuffle mat. I am not the person who likes an amped-up dog. I am the person who expects her dogs to be under control at all times, so that is why this is driving me out of my mind!! It's funny, her brother is the dog who is very active at home, crazy-fast, and is the dog you have to watch so he doesn't get obsessive. Yet he just lays calmly by my side during down time in his class. She is my couch potato at home, usually calm, yet she is the one who is displaying this behavior. Well, I feel like now I have some options, so THANK YOU for the input! I will let you know what works!!
  24. I posted this in General in May, and got no responses. I am hoping I can get some input under Agility. It is regarding Piper's amped up behavior while we wait our turn at agility class. I started my usual go-to remedy for this type of problem - the Look At That game - but once I started that, she focused on getting food and would bark for that. Granted, the bark was better than the amped-up whining, but still annoying. And if I am not constantly alerting and feeding her, she focuses back on the ring. Has anyone else ever dealt with this? My old dog would bark when someone was working in the ring, but it was not as amped up as she is. Would it be better if I removed her from the building while we wait our turn? Or am I better off trying to work through this?? Below was my original post. I'm interested in collecting information on ways you would correct this problem. Piper (almost 2) will whine and carry on while waiting her turn for the agility ring. She starts out with minor whining, but once the dog starts running she amps it up. We do not sit close to the ring, and turning her away does no good because just hearing the dog do contacts or tunnels triggers the behavior. This takes place in an indoor venue.
  25. I am so sorry for your loss. What an amazing story. What I love most is that many people worry about adopting an older dog in that they will not have them for long. Here is a dog that gave 7-8 more years after being adopted (which for some dogs and some breeds is a lifetime.) You are very special people.
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