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beachdogz

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    Female
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    Western Pa.

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  1. I've seen those carabiner/carbine clips release dogs over and over. I would never use one of those; plus, as Journey said, aluminum (no matter how "aero-spaced") is not going to be equal to a brass spring-loaded bolt snap. I think a clue to the clip's efficiency is when they say it's so easy to snap on with one hand. Easy on and easy to release - especially for the dog!
  2. oooo.....thanks for the tip on Farm Diggity. Went to their website. Loved the leashes.....and the other stuff! Definitely bookmarked for future reference. I love finding new places to shop!!
  3. I'm old-school. I still use a good quality 6 foot leather leash. Been using them since I started training dogs 47 years ago ( at that time I had German Shepherds). My leashes are not wide; I prefer a 1/2 inch width with a regular spring-loaded buckle snap. I have leashes that are maybe 25 years old and still look good. If you take care of them and don't let them lay around to be chewed up by puppies, they can last a really long time. The key is probably to make sure it is good quality, and therefore a bit more expensive. I like the "grip" they provide when handling, as opposed to nylon that is too slippery. Once I break one in, the leather becomes supple and it is very comfortable, like an old shoe.
  4. Actually, everything has been helpful. When Alligande made the comment that she would use commands that make sense to her, that led me to Thesaurus the words "behind" and "back." The words that made sense to me and that I thought I could use were flip, reverse, rear, move turn, and pass. That at least gave me options. Then when Diane said her friend uses the word "behind", I thought that it was actually perfect (and it was the origin word I had looked up, but never thought to use!) I also don't see me using this when running my dogs on a course at class. But when I take someone's class, I always respect the instructor and do what is asked at class, even if I know I will not use it otherwise. I am going to use "behind", because I think I will find that useful just in everyday life.
  5. Happy Holidays to everyone here on the Boards or visiting!!! from Bonnie, Parker, and Piper
  6. Well, this is all new to me, too, so here's what I am gathering from it: if the dog is on course and might take an off-course obstacle, you might want the dog to come around back of you to be in line for the correct obstacle. Now I know the instructor is taking an on-line Bud Houston course, so this may be where she is getting it. I did Google him and found a glossary of his terms, and come-by was not in it. However, "switch", "back", and "turn" was in it. Me, I'm lucky to get my dog to where we are going without tripping and falling. And strategy is not my strong suit in life, let alone on a fast-paced obstacle course. So I doubt I would ever institute that type of move. However, I enjoy training and like to implement new things. I do not show in agility; and I do not plan on trialing. I just enjoy the training and the activity. HOWEVER, I am old enough to know "never say never" and that someday, I might want to return to competition again. That being said, the same goes for sheep trialing. I have no plans to do so, however, that's not to say that some day in the future I might change my mind on that. So here is another question: If I trained my dog that come-by means to come to the right around back of me, would that not be confusing to the dog if when training on sheep you ask a come-by as he is running out away from you toward the sheep? And if so, in that case, I would want to change that command to something totally unrelated to herding?? Thank you for your input. I am always happiest when learning something.
  7. So today at class, we were learning commands for bringing the dog around back of us. The instructor uses the command "come bye" for having the dog come around back of us from the right (going clockwise) and "switch" for coming around back of us from the left (counter clockwise.) Mine have not learned this particular exercise until now. However, when they were puppies, they did learn the left and right finish in obedience. My right finish around the back command was "Round" and my left (short) finish command was "swing". I thought it would be easy to transition those commands to this agility exercise. However, "switch" sounded too much like "swing" and I was getting a short finish. So then I thought that might be too confusing to the dog to use obedience commands, and that I should come up with different words. Does anyone else teach this kind of exercise and if so, what words do you use? p.s. This is a totally different exercise than teaching the dog going forward to go right or left. Both of my dogs have learned "left" and "right" commands.
  8. Diane OMG....wow...do not apologize. What great training info!! Thank you for being so specific on what you would do and would not do. Good example of why these boards are worth their weight in gold. The training information here is invaluable. Thanks for taking the time to write all that out! I am again excited to get to class next week and see what the poles bring.
  9. Beautiful story. Beautiful Dog!! Thank you for sharing.
  10. Well, I've actually tried analyzing that, thinking that when running a course, I was not close by and not paying attention. But then when I would isolate the poles, focusing on them, it still happened. I've also tried analyzing my frame of mind, and it has happened too many times in too many instances, so I could not pinpoint attitude. I don't get frustrated with the dog itself because I've been doing this a long time and know this is all a part of learning. I'm not trialing, so there is no pressure to get something done. I totally expect to have this problem crop up again sometime in the next couple weeks. I can't believe I solved the problem, since I did nothing different to work on it. However, Parker did this very same thing and simply outgrew it. Maybe it just takes her longer to outgrow things. Time will tell and I'll keep you posted. However, here is another question to ponder. When doing a segment with poles (or any other obstacle), and they make a mistake, what do you do? Do you take the dog back and re-do the obstacle immediately after they make the mistake; do you wait till the end of the segment and then re-do it, or do you just continue on with the class and not re-do it at all? I've been doing a lot of internet searches and videos about training, and this is the one thing I've noticed. At a seminar or a webinar, the speaker will show you how they teach an exercise and then how they execute the exercise - but rarely do they go into what they do to fix it when the dog does not do it. It's almost as if they are saying, "well, if you do it my way, your dog will not have problems"....and we all know that is not the case.
  11. UPDATE: Well, I could hardly wait to get to class this afternoon. I set up the practice poles with the last two wider, to try later. I then asked the instructor to video us doing the regular weave poles -- once on lead (which she always does perfectly) and then once off lead (which is when she always pops out on the last two poles.) Well, she did them perfectly both times. So we tried again. And again. All perfect. Then we tried putting in a jump before them. Perfect. Then we tried adding the tunnel after. Perfect. Then we tried a small segment. Once again, perfect. I think we ended up with 8 videos of perfect poles. So I want to thank all of you for fixing this problem for me. I don't know how you did it, but it worked well! I'm not naive enough to think the problem has disappeared, but I do now have the ideas of widening the last two poles or using the guide wires if and when this pops up again. But until then, mission accomplished. LOL
  12. Well, duh, I misunderstood the term "wider" and was thinking keeping them in a straight line, but more spacing on the last two. I can easily widen the last ones using the beginner channels that we have! thank you! I did start with channels, did not use guide wires, but I do have guide wires from way back when. I had thought of them, but wondered if it might cause further problems since I had never used them on these puppies. Not trialing, so no problem there! Oh, wow. Never thought of videoing. Gonna do that tomorrow at class. Then going back to the channel/v weave poles and starting with that. Gonna save the guide wires if all else fails. Thank you all so much for so much valuable information!! Can't wait for class tomorrow to start all this!
  13. Does this only happen when you are gone? If so, can you set up a web cam (they are amazingly inexpensive nowadays) and see what triggers it (noise, fear, boredom)? I would suggest a crate, but only if she has been crate-trained and you know she will not try to escape the crate. I have seen dogs seriously injured trying to (successfully) get out of a crate. Once again, this is why I think I would want a camera on my dog to see what the trigger is. If she is not used to being crated, then you will need to start slowly, build-up crate time, and then monitor it to make sure she does not try to escape the crate. If she is good in a crate, then don't feel sorry for her. She can do a lot of harm to herself breaking through glass. You need to keep her safe. As for the yard, I would never leave my dogs alone, unsupervised in a fenced-in yard that they might be able to escape from (by jumping/climbing) and especially if the public could access that fence. I would be afraid of someone taking the dog or harming the dog by throwing something in. I might consider that if it was a 6-foot privacy fence. I agree that invisible fences will not stop a dog from leaving - and also do not stop others from coming in. Please keep us posted as to her progress.
  14. Thank you. She will pull out in both instances. At first when it started, we thought it was the distance I was away from her. So I went back to staying close as she weaved, but she still exited before the last two poles. I train at class in a building, so the poles are stationary on a "track". I don't believe I can change the distance of the last two poles on those. I do have the Cool Runners portable weave poles at home that I used to train via the channel method. I possibly could move those last two poles on those, but they would be wider and not in line with the other poles. I'm not sure if that would help or hurt. Never heard of a Treat & Train, but now I'm curious and going to look that up. She is not toy-driven....just food driven. Not sure if throwing the treat at the end will help? If so, I could try that.
  15. I'm having a problem with Piper's weave poles and wondering if anyone has any suggestions for fixing it. She was doing the weave poles just fine. Then, a couple months ago, she started exiting before the last two poles. If I put her on lead, she flies through them perfectly. It's when she's off lead -- both on the course and/or when I just am doing a skills practice. It's always the same place. She exits before the last two poles. It's driving me crazy! Parker went through the exact same thing, which I chalked up to immaturity/wanting to get to the next obstacle faster -- but his simply went away and his weaves are pretty spot-on now. Piper just doesn't seem to be coming out of this phase. I've tried to thread her slowly when training, but it is darn near impossible. She doesn't have a slow switch, and still barrels right through them. I'm afraid this may now have become a pattern/habit. Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Thank you.
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