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gcv-border

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Everything posted by gcv-border

  1. Has anyone used Dausequan? I was looking at it for a supplement for my small dog who has an arthritic back...its kind of expensive but I have heard good things... ___________________________________ Yes, I use Dasuquin on the advice of my rehab vet. She believes it is the best in its class (she does not sell it either so she is not making money with her recommendation). I am using it as a preventive before symptoms appear so I can not speak to whether or not it is helping my dog. You can buy it from a vet (expensive), but I buy it online using what I believe/hope is a reputable seller. I also save a bit by buying the large tablets and cutting them in half to get the correct dosage for my dog. Jovi
  2. Thanks for the links from me too. Kongs are good. I will be interested in the recipes. I am not familiar with the tricky treat ball or the puzzle - will check them out. The Premier Tug-a-Jug was recommended to me by the rehab vet. I think it is a good idea, but Torque chewed through the imitation rope within 10 minutes, and the hard plastic of the jug is VERY loud on wood or tile floors - use it in carpeted rooms! I second elk (deer) antlers - very long lasting. Try to get a good size one since I worry about my dog swallowing a smaller one (or once it gets small after being chewed on). How old is your dog? Mine seemed to lose the intense desire to chew everything, at all times, a few months after he turned 2. Try the trade game. Put a chew toy and something of yours you do not want him to chew in front of him. If he chooses the chew toy, mark his choice (treat or click/treat or YES). Let him know that he did a GOOD thing. If he chooses the other, say Oops in a happy voice, remove it from his mouth gently and place it back on the floor and start the game again. Good Luck, Jovi _______________________________________________________ Possibly, but often the desire to chew something is because it smells like you guys or is attractiveness in that kind of sense vs. just not having anything the chew on. Something that might help is offering his food in toys that require working at it, might help satisfy his need to forage and explore: have you ever offerred his meals in things like kongs, or puzzle toys? If he really can rip thru plastic you might have to do this supervised, but you would be surprised how satisfying this is for a critter and it can actually help curb some destructive impulses. Its how they often feed zoo animals these days - make them forage for their food and it helps keep them mentally happy. Some links: some Kong reciepes Tricky Treat Ball Nina Ottoson puzzle Premiere Tug a Jug
  3. RED DOGS RULE!! :^) Jovi and Torque (red tri who is now out of his puppy stages) ________________________________ 1) Robin Goodfellow 2) Robin Come Bobbin 3) Robin Red Chief 4) Robin Peter Rabbit -- I finally had to do admit that we should have fenced the garden last year when DH fenced in about a quarter acre of yard but "somebody" wanted the puppies to go to the garden with her and they do now lie down and behave when I'm working in it. It's the damage they do when I'm not there that made me say those three most sought after words in the human language, "You were right" . Yesterday Robin destroyed my onion patch with his big red ball (yes, it was my idea was that to buy that thing,too) -- we have raised beds and the fence ends at the bottom bed, coming to a corner where the onions are planted and he got the ball stuck in the corner, and well, it's not a pretty sight. I might be able to salvage the peas and the lettuce came through unharmed. The radishes are going to seed anyway.... At any rate, Ken put up a nice five foot fence yesterday and so Robin has now turned his attention to the garden bed beside the pool, fenced in with a four foot fence....which might as well not be there at all...this morning I find him out there browsing through the herbs to have a nip of parsley or mint....nothing in there that could hurt him but it is darned annoying because he is trampling everything else - Forget the sheep, this dog is going into agility. He takes fences like a champion steeplechaser...leaps them from a standstill! I don't understand it....Brodie is such a good dog....so well behaved....quiet. His only sin is chasing the cat. There's just something about a red dog.... Liz
  4. Glad to learn more about the Platinum Performance products. I have used Biosponge for 3-4 years, and I LOVE it - couldn't be without it. I also buy it in the 4 lb container and use it on my dogs and alpacas. I have often wondered about using it 'off-label', that is, for myself or my husband as the need arises. ;^) I will check out the PP CJ and Stamina in the catalog. Thanks, Jovi Hi Suki, I have used Platinum Performance products for both horses and dogs for years. For the dogs I use Platinum Performance CJ , which combines PP and their Joint product in one. Used to have to buy it seperately. I also use Stamina for the trial dogs. And I try never to be run out of BioSponge. I buy it in the 4# containers, but it is also available in syringes ( too expensive that way with the amount I use). I use that on dogs, horses and sheep. I buy their Platinum bars for myself. On and off I have some of their other products as well, as needed. Hope all is well with you. Carolyn
  5. OOPs! Forgot to clarify that an iliopsoas strain is similar to a groin pull in humans. Therefore it can affect movement that involves extension of the abdominal area i.e. jumping extensions. When your dog doesn't want to fully extend their rear legs due to the pain of the iliopsoas strain, dropped bars can be the result. Jovi __________________________________________________ I think all the suggestions have merit. It is a very complex issue. So far, 1. Teach the dog to jump via jump exercises (Susan Salo DVD, ladders, cavalettis, wrap-work, positive reinforcement for NOT ticking/dropping bars, etc, etc.) I understand that almost all dogs need to be taught to jump correctly. 2. Is it something you are doing that causes the dog to adjust in mid-air leading to a dropped bar? That was a good comment, and probably happens more than one realizes, particularly for a beginning handler. I am a beginning handler and it is very common for my instructor to point out that the reason my dog dropped a bar was because I was late, or not clear, or too close, or whatever with my handling cue. Then, when I repeat the sequence, if I get the timing right, usually my dog does it beautifully. I would like to add a third category to the list - injury. Injury (specifically iliopsoas strain) can cause dropped bars. Personally, I think the first 2 reasons are more likely, but it might be worth checking out an iliopsoas strain, or at least keep it in the back of your mind. I went through this with my dog (~ 15-16 months old at the time) and learned a lot. A couple of things to point out: (1) a dog with a high pain tolerance may not show any other sign of an iliopsoas strain beyond dropped bars. If you can find a rehab vet, he/she would be the best person to check out your dog. I wouldn't necessarily trust a general vet. (My general vet did not diagnose it.) (2) One of the rehab vets I worked with believes that there are many more iliopsoas strains in agility dogs than are diagnosed. She cringes when she hears someone saying that their dog is 'lazy' because it keeps dropping bars. To her, that is a sign to check the dog for an iliopsoas strain. Good Luck, Jovi
  6. I think all the suggestions have merit. It is a very complex issue. So far, 1. Teach the dog to jump via jump exercises (Susan Salo DVD, ladders, cavalettis, wrap-work, positive reinforcement for NOT ticking/dropping bars, etc, etc.) I understand that almost all dogs need to be taught to jump correctly. 2. Is it something you are doing that causes the dog to adjust in mid-air leading to a dropped bar? That was a good comment, and probably happens more than one realizes, particularly for a beginning handler. I am a beginning handler and it is very common for my instructor to point out that the reason my dog dropped a bar was because I was late, or not clear, or too close, or whatever with my handling cue. Then, when I repeat the sequence, if I get the timing right, usually my dog does it beautifully. I would like to add a third category to the list - injury. Injury (specifically iliopsoas strain) can cause dropped bars. Personally, I think the first 2 reasons are more likely, but it might be worth checking out an iliopsoas strain, or at least keep it in the back of your mind. I went through this with my dog (~ 15-16 months old at the time) and learned a lot. A couple of things to point out: (1) a dog with a high pain tolerance may not show any other sign of an iliopsoas strain beyond dropped bars. If you can find a rehab vet, he/she would be the best person to check out your dog. I wouldn't necessarily trust a general vet. (My general vet did not diagnose it.) (2) One of the rehab vets I worked with believes that there are many more iliopsoas strains in agility dogs than are diagnosed. She cringes when she hears someone saying that their dog is 'lazy' because it keeps dropping bars. To her, that is a sign to check the dog for an iliopsoas strain. Good Luck, Jovi
  7. A comment on another email forum started me thinking about the negative perceptions and biases that non-BC people have about BCs --- so I was wondering if anyone else has experienced comments, unintended or purposeful, regarding our favorite dog breed? I would be very interested in your anecdotes. Here are 2 of mine: First: I brought my BC puppy (he was about 14-16 weeks old at the time) to a local "puppy class" for socialization and some rudimentary obedience. He did very well with any and all of the commands. After a few weeks, one of the other participants made a comment about how having a BC was "cheating". Really now!! Second: Out of curiosity, I brought my dog to a local flyball club to see if it was something I would like to do with him. (I knew he would like it, but I wasn't so sure that I would.) Interestingly, this flyball club did not have a single BC on the team. During the introductions, one person commented that "BCs are OK, but I wouldn't want to live with one". Later, I did take satisfaction that my hard-to-live-with BC was one of the best-behaved dogs at their practice. While these comments are not mean, they did surprise me. I had no response to either comment, but that was probably for the best. So - has anyone else experienced comments or actions indicating a negative perception about (or maybe jealousy of) the BC? Jovi
  8. Carla's response was excellent - and the additional advice as also helpful. One thing I might add is to reward his quiet times. Yes, you can teach him "off" by positive motivation, but I also try to CAPTURE behaviors that he does voluntarily (i.e. staying quietly on the rug for example or any other behavior that he does that you like but have not actively asked for). I reward with a low & soft "good boy", a treat and/or a pat (a pat when he is older). I do not use my happy voice for instances like this since that tends to energize. In the beginning, he may get energized when you treat for being quiet, but he should learn to just stay there and accept his treat - eventually. Good Luck and be prepared to be a walking/talking treat dispenser for a while. Jovi
  9. I currently use Frontline Plus AND a preventic collar --- and Iverhart Max. I had been using Advantix since their marketing led me to believe that it provided more complete coverage, but we (2 dogs and 2 humans) kept getting ticks. There is nothing I hate more than seeing a bloated tick that has fallen off one of the dogs. Based on the advice of my rehab vet, who works with a search & rescue team that is always in the woods, I have been using my current regimen for about a year and see very few ticks (on the dogs). She says that you can use Frontline Plus with the preventic collar, but NOT to combine the preventic collar with Advantix since Advantix is a much more toxic chemical. A friend's vet does not think combining the two are a good idea, but it is the only thing that has worked for me here in SW VA. (I do not have kids, but do have cats - which should not be exposed to the preventic collar. No problems so far.) I just heard of someone who religiously uses Frontline Plus and just had her dog diagnosed with both Lyme and erlichia. I don't know what it is, but I keep hearing about how one product works welll in one region, but not another. Or how one owner is happy with a product, but the same product doesn't seem to work for the neighbor down the road. I wouldn't discount different body chemistry between dogs and regional differences in tick populations. Jovi It's been a tick a day on one dog or the other or the cat and once or twice on DH since fair weather broke and we've started walking in the far fields and as DH lets them all over the furniture and up on the bed, they are all on their way out the door - the cat and DH included - until I get this under control. We use Revolution and until this year have not had a problem.....does anyone have any suggestions for another spot-on heartworm/flea/tick/worm preventative that does not contain Ivermection (yeah, I know - but better safe than very sorry) Thanks, Liz
  10. Here's the link. Here's the relevant information (bolded for your convenience): The above is from Gil. Ash's excellent site on tick diseases. J. Julie, Thank you for that EXCELLENT link. I agree that probiotics can help - just from my own personal experience. (Both of my dogs have been on either doxy or amoxi without much decrease in appetite. The main side effect has been loose stools - for which I used probiotics.) Two interesting points I noticed: It was recommended to give probiotics 2 hours AFTER the doxy tablet. When I was on doxy for Lyme disease, my doctor told me to take a probiotic tablet (available at health food stores) at least 1 hour BEFORE take the doxy tablet. Over a period of 30 days, I forgot to take the probiotic tablet twice and boy, did my stomach pay for it. Anyway, whatever works is best. (My experience with Lyme disease was about 10 years ago, so I am sure that today more is known about how to treat the side effects of doxy, etc.) Also, I willl have to talk to my vet with regard to the amoxi treatment for erlichiosis. One of my dogs just finished a 28 day treatment of amoxi twice per day for erlichiosis. I remember him prescribing amoxi because he felt it worked better than doxy for erlichiosis, but now I am doubting my memory. I will need to revisit that with him. Jovi
  11. OH Boy. This really describes me and my dog. (Novices, both of us.) I like the term 'spectating'. I recently had a private lesson with an out-of-town agility instructor (who was in town for a workshop), and she also noted how I just stood there watching him run towards me after I led out. I thought he looked sooo pretty - just like those cool dogs on TV that are agility champions. So now I have been working on keeping my feet moving, but then the next problem pops up --- there are times I need to decelerate, and even stop, to indicate to my dog the path I want him to follow. Just too much for my brain (accelerate, decelerate, stop) - but if I do it right, Torque responds perfectly. Regarding start-line stays: Torque also will stand from a sit or creep forward at a start line stay when at a trial. (He is much better at lessons.) I find that if I keep eye contact and hold my hand up to make him stay when I lead out, he doesn't push as much. Yes, I would love to be one of those handlers that set their dogs and then blithely walk away, but at this stage, he is too excited. I am working on it and hope he will improve as he matures, but since he can be controlled if I pay attention, I am satisfied with that at the moment. Jovi One of my instructors accuses me of "spectating" Yes, I guess I'm guilty of that because I just can't believe how fast and cool he looks when he runs but that's probably only part of the problem. I think I'm stunned and shocked sometimes and I just stand there not knowing what to do. It's taken a long time to get used to his speed and his quick response to every single move and command I give. I really thought agility was a piece of cake because I ran an aussie that wasn't as fast and she covered every wrong move I made. She was my first agility dog. Chase leaves me no room for any errors. Bless him, he tries so hard for me. We are slowly getting it together and working as a team. He's understanding me better and I'm understanding him better. It's going to be one heck of a ride with him! It has been so far!
  12. Coconut :-) I know I sound like a broken record LOL but I'm telling you coconut will/should fix your dog right up. If you look in an earlier post of mine, in a medical study Coconut(actually the Lauric acid in coconut) was found to be more effective in the treatement of giardia than both Metro. and Fenbend. (panacur) I've used it with great success on both my dogs and horses...It's cheap, it's natural, can in no way harm them...try it :-) Betty Betty, I would love to learn more information about coconut/lauric acid for treatment of giardia. Can you please point me to your previous post (can someone else)? I often use the normal pharmaceuticals required for various symptoms, but if possible, I substitute alternative treatments that I consider more "natural" -- so my ears always perk up when I hear or see a new treatment. Here is my treatment for diarrhea: Note: this is for diarrhea where the animal is otherwise normal. i.e. the animal is bright-eyed, normal temp and activity. I would try something different/stronger if the diarrhea was concurrent with poor attitude, high temp or other signs indicative of a more serious problem. Use BioSponge from Platinum Performance. (Google it to get the website) I like it because it is not what I consider a "drug". It is described as an adsorbant clay that non-specifically adsorbs, thus removing, toxins, etc. in the intestine. I believe that they also claim it helps remove Clostridial sp. (Don't quote me on that. It has been a while since I re-read the website.) It reminds me of the activated charcoal that my large animal vet gives me for upset tummy/diarrhea symptoms in my alpacas. I have used it with great success in alpacas and my dogs. I also know several fellow livestock owners that swear by it. I would also consider taking it myself if necessary. N.B. I have no financial interest in Platinum Performance, nor do I know anyone connected to the company. I just think that BioSponge is a great product. Jovi
  13. First, to help understand the symptoms described, I think that it is essential to have an objective study done to accurately describe the symptoms and then to determine if there is a physiologic or mental or genetic basis. I am very glad that research funds will be applied toward this end. Based on several anecdotes such as the one referenced below, maybe we should call it BCCCS (Border Collie Concentration Collapse Syndrome) Just a joke :>) Cheers, Jovi Liz, We also had a dog that had these episodes even in cool weather. The episodes appear to me to be linked to high mental excitement in conjunction with anaerobic activity. The dogs breathing can appear normal during the activity but when the activity is ceased their physical state deteriorates: increased breathing, more forceful breathing, loss of balance, loss of control of their back legs, clenched jaw, etc. These symptoms arise 1-5 mins after physical exertion is ceased; often while walking off the field or after having left the field. It's as if their mind does not realize that their body is in anaerobic distress until the object of their focus has been removed and as if they were not breathing enough during the physical activity. Mark
  14. I agree that leash pulling should first be addressed as a training issue (wouldn't it be great to have a dog that doesn't pull, pays attention, heels regardless of distractions, etc.) Needless to say, my dog is not like that - although he is getting better. Having said that, leashes are part of my dog's 'wardrobe' so it is nice to be able to have different functions (slip, clip, martingales, tracking, etc.) and different colors and materials. AKC agility competitions require entering and leaving the ring on a leash so you need some kind of leash. I think it is just a matter of what you like and what works well for your dog. I usually use a slip lead. When looking for leads, I have found that every so often I find a leash vendor at an agility trial - and it is special when I find one that makes custom leads. I just bought a braided 5-foot slip lead in the colors of my choice at an agility trial a month ago. A friend just found another vendor making cool custom leads at an agility trial in MD. So don't forget to check out the vendors at the agility trials!! Jovi I just use a cotton clothes line cut to 6 ft and a double ended hook, so much for the fashion statement we make! If i use anything heavier it slows dew's brain down from what we're working on, cause she's concerned with a dragging heavy lead or pulling which is not allowed. I would think leash pulling is a training thing that needs to be addressed for agility training anyways. It was one of the first things we worked on for our first agility lesson. Dew and I don't need work of that but everyone else did. I train the leash pulling thing when they are puppies. A combo of a light jerk correction on the lead and the not moving till the leash is slack has worked for us, untill sheep then it's off lead training which transfers to on lead too. And I'm sure Dew's drive is = to any dog around. It's what we determine to be acceptable or unacceptable behavior right from the start. Drive doesn't mean you can excuse pulling it just means you might have to work harder to get the pulling undercontrol but I swear it can be done!
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