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Everything posted by gcv-border

  1. Happy to hear that the weave pole problem is 'fixed'. Maybe it was your attitude?
  2. Lovely tribute. What wonderful work you have accomplished, and I know Rooster is saying "Thank You" too. Best wishes for a long life with Rooster.
  3. The Treat & Train used to be called Manners Minder, if that helps. And yes, move the last 2 poles so they are wider and she doesn't have to bend her body as much to finish the poles. She should know to continue 'weaving' past the last pole. If the last 2 are wider, she still has the 'landmarks' of the poles, but it is easier to complete the task. Gradually move them back towards the center. If she starts popping out again, it is possible that you have narrowed them too fast. Return them to a wider position so she has a >90% or 95% success rate, then narrow again. (Note: try narrowing by a very small increment so she hardly notices)
  4. Does Piper pull out if you are running with her along the poles, or is she more likely to pull out if you are moving away from the poles to get to the next obstacle? Personally, I don't think that putting her on a leash is helping. The goal is to teach her that her job is to finish all the poles - whether you are running along beside her or are at a distance. If you have adjustable weaves, or are using poles stuck in the ground, one option is to open up the last 2 poles to make it easier for her to finish the 12. I would first proof going to the end of the poles (distance, pulling away, etc.) to make sure she understands that she has to finish all 12 while you move away. Then you can start GRADUALLY closing the last two poles and continue with straight on path or proofing distance and pulling away. Another option - if she understands what a Treat & Train is (the remote-controlled treat dispenser), use that to see if she will drive to it and finish all 12 poles. If she is still popping out, try opening the last 2 poles as suggested above. Obviously, you can also reward with a thrown toy - keep the toy in the hand away from the poles so the dog doesn't see it. I haven't had great luck with that because my dogs KNOW I have a toy and will focus on that. My timing has to be incredibly precise (which it usually isn't) to use a throw toy successfully.
  5. Coming back to this thread. I would love to experience a working-bred Kelpie, but I wouldn't know how to find one here in the States. I know someone with a couple of them, but they are very shy and anxious, so I am thinking that there may be a split of working vs. pet similar to the BC breed.
  6. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/why-do-dogs-tilt-their-heads-new-study-offers-clues-180978980/
  7. I enjoyed that. Thanks for posting.
  8. I am of a similar mind as terrecar. If a dog is invading her space, she has a right to tell him/her to back off. Even if the other dog seems friendly to us (as humans) s/he may have been rude and inappropriate with the dog-dog interactions. It sounds like your dog may not be super confident. I also recommend reducing the amount of time at dog parks, and if you do bring her to dog-dense play areas, definitely try to monitor the situation and not let her fend for herself.
  9. These dogs are smart enough to differentiate surfaces - i.e. she will know to be careful jumping with slippery hardwoods, but should have no hesitancy (if not injured) jumping with grass/dirt/sand underneath. So no, being on hardwoods would not 'teach' her to not jump under other conditions. If she is injured (ileopsoas strain or tear, or spinal wrench or...?), it is perfectly logical that she could 'jump' lower heights, which she probably mostly steps over, but avoids the higher heights where she has to elevate more because that can be painful.
  10. Sorry to hear this. My first thought is that she may have an ileopsoas tear. Her hesitation to use her rear for 'explosive' actions (jumping) is a giveaway that there is an injury. As you probably know, BCs are excellent at masking pain, but she does seem to be giving signals that she is in pain. If she lives on hardwood, there could have been a time when she slipped and strained a muscle or joint. Or an injury could have happened at any other time. General vets do not (usually) have the expertise to diagnose sports injuries. (Ask me how I know.) I definitely recommend finding a certified orthopedic vet that is specially trained in this area. I don't have a link in front of me, but there are on-line lists of orthopedic vets to help you find one in your area. Good luck.
  11. I have tried Tony McAlister ABCA, Tony McAlister border collie, ABCA news Tony McAlister. Nothing wrt to this topic. Please help.
  12. Can anyone expand on exactly what the behavior was that resulted in this action? Falsification of registrations?
  13. Since Braden is 1.5 years old, what other training have you done with him? And how much? If you have done too much training requiring a lot of focus on you, which is then rewarded, Braden may be defaulting to that type of interaction with you -- checking in with you a lot for reinforcement that he has done the correct behavior. Take this with a grain of salt because I am not an expert in training for herding (but have done a little and one dog is a little like Braden) -- you have to try to break the habit of him looking to you for approval. Since it sounds like he will not go in and attack the sheep, let him walk around the sheep with you, but if he looks to you, don't say anything. Don't encourage. When you encourage, you are strengthening the 'looking for approval' habit. Try to break the habit of him looking to you by not responding. Just keep walking around the sheep and see what he does. He must learn to focus on the sheep and think for himself. Just my 2 cents - for better or worse.
  14. I understand. Fast dogs demand distance handling. With my first agility trainer, she taught a style that didn't use much distance handling. (very few rear crosses, no layering) She kept encouraging me saying "you CAN get there for that front cross". Oh Heck no I can't. Torque and I were extremely frustrated. Then she tried running a short sequence with him one day. HaHa. After that, she understood and was more on board with layering and rear crosses.
  15. Super distance handling. You should be proud of Team Molly.
  16. My 14 YO was still competing in an occasional agility trial at 10. I think he has really slowed down in the last 12-18 months. I also picked up on the drinking more water as mentioned by Bordercentrics. A vet check (bloodwork) is recommended.
  17. I am glad you found a surgeon who can perform an arthroscopic surgery. The incision is so small (for my dog it was probably 1.5 inch or less) and muscle damage is much less - which leads to faster recovery time. Start now with teaching him to be calm in the crate. And I agree with Journey that mind games and puzzles will be a big help. Also there may be some trick training that is appropriate for a rehabbing dog. Definitely make sure to connect with a rehab professional. (I would assume that the surgeon will recommend someone to help you with rehab.)
  18. I will be the third one to suggest looking at dogs in rescue. But I am going to suggest researching rescue groups that use fosters. Fosters can provide a real life evaluation of the dog's personality and how the dog may fit into family life. Sometimes, there can be surprises with respect to a dog's personality when they are stressed out in a shelter/kennel environment. Also, most rescue groups will allow a trial period during which you can return the dog if it isn't fitting into your household.
  19. Is it heat? Or being a teenager? Or??? Or a combination thereof? If it were my dog, I would try to get her attention back to me - to sit or some other trick then reward. If that didn't work, I would remove the dog from the situation so she doesn't continue to practice her bad behavior. Go away to a distance where she has calmed and is focusing on you, and ask for some behaviors which you can reward.
  20. Since both parents were ABCA registered, your pup can be registered with ABCA. Contact the breeder to get the pedigree papers required. They may also need to sign a form, but since I have never registered a pup, I can not comment on the specifics of the process. The USBCHA is only a sanctioning body for trials. Dogs are not 'registered' with the USBCHA. From the USBCHA website: "The United States Border Collie Handler’s Association, Inc. (USBCHA) is the sanctioning body for sheep and cattledog trials trials throughout the United States and Canada. It was founded in 1979 and has grown into an organization of more than 800 members. Members who qualify at sanctioned Open trials during the year are eligible to compete in the USBCHA National Sheepdog and Cattledog Finals to determine the champion Open dog and handler for that year." It is my understanding that a dog does NOT have to be registered with the ABCA (or CBCA or ISBC) to compete in USBCHA trials. It only matters if you start winning trials and want to receive $$ payouts. You may also have to have a registered dog to be able to qualify for the Finals (but not sure on that one since I will never have to worry about that. <grim>)
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