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Everything posted by Ms.DaisyDuke

  1. Wow. What great news! Keep up the good work!
  2. The stuff I buy is specific for dogs (I know, likely cheaper to buy the humane stuff) but it suggests to feed one teaspoon per 40lbs of body weight per day.
  3. We don't go through the regular means that most rescues do to get their dogs. Our dogs all come from the First Nations Communities in Southern Alberta, so basically, their histories are never known. Most of the adult dogs that we get in are friendly enough because they've had to be to survive into adult-hood, but we've had a few cases that behaviour modification and/or meds didn't help and we've had to euthanize. Our foster homes are equipped to deal with certain behaviours and we have trainers on staff so most minor issues we can deal with. We don't adopt out dogs who could be dangerous. Last summer, we had a pitty named Pumpkin. She was the epitome of awesome dog. She would sell her soul for humans. Unfortunately for her she had been a fighting dog. She was covered in scars and her dog aggression was above and beyond anything we had the resources to handle, after enough time to prove her self and repeatedly fail, she was euthanized.
  4. I agree with Pam. Counter Conditioning should work. There is a ton of information to be had. To be able to teach your dog an alternate behaviour, especially when she sees other dogs will take some time, but the key will be to understand counter conditioning, desensitization and understanding her thresholds and stimuli. Having a solid recall and doing extensive attention work should also help.
  5. On top of what RDM has seen, I noticed that at 0.05s and 0.11s he freezes (literally, he stops dead in his tracks) and raises a foot, looks away and licks his lips. It really does look like he's uncomfortable with other dogs. Leg lifting is known as a "calming signal", it's not really calming anything, but dogs do it when they are unsure or nervous. You can also see that he has 'whale eye' at 0.11s too (you can really see the whites of his eyes). He seems very nervous.
  6. Just a couple of questions.... How is your dog with other dogs in general? Is she fine outside of the house on and off leash? What else have you tried other than crating? There are many things you can do to train a default behaviour like "got to place". But I don't know what you have and have not tried. I am a huge fan of training another behaviour to go with the stimulus opposed to barking. Have you tried simply body blocking her, moving her away from the stimulus and having her do something else? You could also try a squirt bottle instead of a training collar.
  7. I'm with everyone else... he looks like he's just being an ass. I also believe what you're saying about the initial introductions... I hope you can get that other video to work, I'd like to see it. As for flooding him... well, that scares me. Mostly because you don't know what kind of behaviour you are seeing and why you're seeing it. Where did it come from? Why is he doing this? If it's some sort of weird fear thing, it could make him worse. If you could find a behaviourist or a really good trainer that would offer you (being a rescue) some free time, I'd have him meet another strange dog with the behaviourist/trainer present.
  8. Riley is on this for arthritis in his front leg. He's on the Cosequin DS 2x per day and Ligaplex II 2x per day. Long story short, we speculate his foot was caught in a trap. 2 of his toes are pretty mangled and the tendons suffered severe trauma and the bone was fractured. The injury likely happened last October and he's been on the Cosequin since March. When we first adopted him, in Feb., he couldn't use that foot after a long resting period, like first thing in the morning after being crated all night and he couldn't go to day care for a full day without having multiple rest times during the day. Now, the worst I've seen is being a little stiff for a day after a week at a boarding facility, where he likely played almost all day every day. I guess we'll see how much it helps this winter since our Chinooks are notorious for wreaking havoc on people/animals with arthritis. So far though, it seems it is helping. He also has Traumeel for pain, just incase.
  9. This worked really well for me too. Funny, my mom mentioned that she used to do this for us when we were kids and I thought, maybe, it may work on dogs... sure enough, it did! I had to watch Daisy closely though as she used to destroy everything. I'd take it away from her when she was starting to ruin it. Here is a good link on mouthing http://www.arf.ab.ca/learn/trainingtips-mouthing.shtml
  10. This is true for us as well. Although, I'm with one of those 'All Breed' rescues. We have over 50 dogs in our system right now, mostly litters of puppies that were surrendered at Spay/Neuter clinics. I can count on one hand the adoptions that have gone through in the last month. Granted, we're quite strict on our adoption policy and not just any 'Joe' can get a dog from us, we've noticed that adoptions have not picked up like we thought they would. Anyway, back to the OP. When I'm at events with my rescue group, I don't normally ask people where they got their dog from... it's none of my business. If they offer, my normal reply is usually "Oh, yeah?". If they want to talk about it more, they can, if not that's fine too. I don't push rescue on people or try to make them feel bad. There is a good chance (like others have said) that the person in question just didn't know how to continue that conversation...
  11. Well, I just took a tricks class with my 6 year old dog... so I'm pretty sure Toby isn't too old to learn new things. We work on the names of different toys/objects... she's even learned how to tell the difference between some shapes. In the class we learned how to crawl, take a bow, dance (walk on hind legs), speak and then the easy things like roll over, shake, wave, high-five, spin right and left, back-up and a bunch more... can't remember the whole list... I should see if I have my sheets because they all give directions on how to teach the trick. She also knows how to weave between my legs. Teaching a dog how to target is pretty fun for them too. Daisy learned how to watch the direction I'm pointing and touch the object I'm pointing at. This helps with her fear as well. I don't believe that a dog can ever be too old to learn new tricks!
  12. This is an argument that's happened 100 times here and everywhere else for that matter. So, lets leave it at that. I guess I'm glad my dog doesn't have opposable thumbs or I'd really be in trouble.
  13. Don't know if this was one of my posts or not you are referring to and I don't want to derail this thread, but I'd just like to add that before I started using positive training methods I did actually use a trainer that was correction based, I had private sessions in my home even. Fear is the basis of my dogs reactivity, and she would actually completely shut down when anyone was working with her. I'm talking curl up and withdraw from the situation 100%. Our relationship suffered and she did not get better. Once I started to understand fear a little better, I realized that leash corrections weren't going to make our issues go away. Clearly my dedication and training ability weren't the problem because I did manage to stick with a very difficult task and succeed. There is never a 5 minute solution to a behaviour issue.
  14. Don't know if the OP is still around, but hopefully they are still reading. I 100% agree that dropping from formal classes for a while is a good idea. Taking the dog to populated areas is a bad idea unitl you understand the dogs thresholds and triggers. You also need to teach the dog things that will help him be distracted. For example, with my reactive dog, I spent weeks and weeks teaching her and getting her jacked up on doing tricks. To the point where doing tricks and learning new ones is her FAVORITE thing in the world. I also taught her a "watch me" command, an excellent recall and then later a "look at that" command. Then I worked with her in our living room with the blinds open so she could see other dogs walking past, then in our front yard and in the neighbourhood park. When she would see another dog, I would ask her for eye contact, then get her to do some tricks, then we'd walk the other way. Rewarding her heavily for not reacting and doing what I asked the entire time. Sometimes it takes a lot of work with a dog before you can throw it into heavily populated areas without reaction. The more the dog gets to react, the more it learns this behaviour "makes that scary thing go away".
  15. /\ /\ That's generally what most of Riley's play sessions look like! I'm glad you're finding dogs for him to play with... similar age/play styles etc. I'm also glad you found out he's 'normal' I've seen quite a few dogs display puppy behaviours at an age you wouldn't imagine if they've been in situations where they didn't really get a chance to be a puppy. Delayed development? Who knows. Is that possible? I would recommend Patricia McConnell's books for crate training... there is one, I just can't think of the name of it... and it's not on my bookshelf for some reason. Anyway, her booklets are fairly cheap and full of good info! Good luck!
  16. You've been given some excellent advice that I can't really add too and I truly hope you find positive training. Stringing a dog up for reacting to something he is either over stimulated by or fearful of is only going to lead to disaster. You will teach him, in the long run, that his 'trigger' is something that causes pain (being strung up does NOT feel good). Granted he may stop lunging and barking, but it's out of fear of your retaliation not because he's learned an appropriate, alternate behaviour and one day he may just attack another dog seemingly 'unprovoked' because you've taken away his ability to tell you he's uncomfortable (the barking and lunging). Learning your dog's triggers and thresholds and finding a good positive behaviorist will help you immensely.
  17. It really depends on the dogs in question and their play styles. Riley frequently shows his teeth when playing and he's very, very physical. I usually try to pair him with other male dogs in his age range with similar play styles. His favorite companions seem to be bully breeds and greyhounds (I think he likes that he can't out run them!), but will take any dog that will wrestle. I don't see this type of behaviour as a breed specific thing like that other person said to you, but an individual play style. There is usually a lot of growling, showing of teeth, neck biting, leg biting, pining each other on the ground and chasing. It all looks quite nasty, but it really isn't. Ruth is right, the body language seems to remain pretty loose during these times. Paying close attention to their body language will give you a good clue as to whether the play is appropriate or not or being enjoyed by both parties. If the other dog continues to walk away or turn its back then there is a good chance he doesn't want to play. That would be your time to step in and calm Louis down and redirect him to other things like you or a toy. Doing some research on canine communication and body language would likely help you a great deal also.
  18. What about thinking toys? They can take off some of the 'edge'. I use the Kong Wobbler and the Tricky Treat Ball for feeding times every once in a while and I also have the Tornado. They love it. Plastic pop bottles filled with kibble give them something to think about too. Both of my dogs really enjoy figuring things out. http://www.kongcompany.com/kongwobblervideo.html http://www.omegapaw.com/tricky-treat-ball-products.html http://www.premier.com/View.aspx?page=dogs...avior/busybuddy http://www.nina-ottosson.com/Dog-2.htm
  19. Sometimes all I have to do is distract Riley and get him to do something else, if we're at the park, I just have to leash him and walk away. Every once in a while though, I do actually have to sit down with him and rub his chest. For some reason, rubbing his chest will just about put him to sleep.
  20. Could she be getting over stimulated by something? I know with Riley that sometimes he goes 'over the edge' and becomes a little bit of an ass towards other dogs. I have to take him away and calm him. He just can't control his excitement sometimes for whatever reason and it's like his brain has a melt down. Too much full body contact play and other dogs alarm barking set him off. I can tell if he's going to have a melt down by the size of his pupils. This is the first time I've ever actually seen this happen, but when he's full into melt down, you can't see his irises anymore. So normally, I try to keep an eye on his eyes and remove him from the situation when he's getting too wound up so that he can come back down.
  21. Little late to the party here, but if you're going to chop up the livers (don't remember the texture of kidneys) I'd freeze them and then cut them up if you insist on cutting them. I'd just chuck them in whole. Chicken livers are quite slimy and easily mashed with too much handling while raw can make a giant mess! Is it common for butchers to toss that stuff in the U.S.? It does seem like such a waste...
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