Jump to content
BC Boards

gneiss

Registered Users
  • Content Count

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

About gneiss

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  1. I was simply talking about training techniques. The OP stated using a choke collar as a training tool. In all my years of competition training, Search & Rescue training, and Service Dog training I rarely see a trainer use a choke chain in order to achieve a "down" because there are far better techniques that are safer and much more positive. Most people who use choke collars, use them improperly. It takes years of practice to know how to snap the chain without causing serious injury and harm to your dog. The corrections that so many of you are mentioning...yes are corrections but they are environmental corrections and outside the control of the handler (dogs understand the difference). -g
  2. Yes one should use corrections on their dogs for behavioral issues, as I clearly stated before. From my own personal experience with my dogs doing competition obedience and agility if one of them makes a mistake during training or gives me a behavior I didn't want, I say nothing and simply put my hand in their collar and try it again, always remaining postive and upbeat. If I let on that i'm disappointed or upset or make a harsh correction such as; a nose shake they tune out. If my dog still isn't giving me the desired behavior I want, I then start at the beginning or move backwards to where they were comfortable. It's never the dogs fault, it's poor handling. Yes border collies were bred to "work" to have a "job" it's part of their gentic make-up. But at some point in the training process, wether it be agility, obedience, flyball, or herding the training is no longer "fun" and becomes boring and tedious. It is up to the handler to stay upbeat and keep it fun and keep their dog tuned into them in order to achieve the desired behavior. -G
  3. I know very little about herding. I do have experience in agility and competition obedience and I must say I have never seen a trainer use a choke collar in training in order to achieve a "down". During training sessions your experience with your dog should always remain upbeat and positive. Behavior corrections should take place outside the training session. If you need your dog to "down" quickly, put your dog on leash ask your dog to "down", if the dog downs slowly give the leash a snap in the down direction and say "where's your down" or lure your dog into the down position. Once your dog "downs" get really excited and give lots of praise. I would imagine in herding like obedience and agility that training should always be fun and positive. Because if it isn't why would the dog want to "work" for you. -G
  4. I have a job where my border collie comes with me to work. After a few months of him being with me constantly, I started noticing him showing signs of seperation anxiety. I know leave him at home 1 or 2 days a week. I realize that you are at home, so its difficult to "leave him". I would suggest in the morning that you play with him by retrieving. While retrieving with him, throw in some mental stimulation as well. Make him watch, lie down, sit, and anything else you can think of. This way your dog is getting physical exercise from the retrieving and mental. After your done playing with him (30 minutes). I would suggest putting him in his crate along with his breakfast. You can leave him in his crate for a few hours (giving you time to study) then take him out and "potty" him. At this time you can play with him, but isnt necessary. I would then suggest bringing him into the same room with you and tethering him to you or in the same room. While he's thethered give him a KONG filled with peanut butter or cookies or give him a MERRICK bone (don't let him nibble on the MERRICK bone for more than 30 min. otherwise he will get diarrhea). The tethering should really help with the chewing. Then I would give him another 30 min. of retrieving before he eats dinner. Good Luck -G
  5. Another good way of teaching your dog a reliable "leave it" is to clicker train your dog. I would suggest getting Karen Pryors clicker training book (www.clickertraining.com). It takes the dog no time to understand that a "click" means a reward is coming. I clicker trained all my dogs and rehab dogs. It takes approximately 50 clicks/treats before the dog understands (click and then treat...repeat this process several times). You will know when the dog has gotten it; because when you "click" the dog will look at you expecting the treat. when you see the dog doing something inappropiate get the dogs attention and then "click" and "treat". This process is explained much clearer in Karen's book. Good Luck -G
  6. The reason your puppy is digging is most likely out of boredom and a lack of respect for you and your things. I would suggest first getting yourself a trainer. Since you have a border collie, I would suggest taking classes from someone who does competition training wether or not your interested in competition. Competition training is far more interesting than 'pet training'. Plus it sounds like your puppy is pretty independent. If you can't afford a trainer, then I would first suggest teaching your dog to retrieve. Give your puppy an activity. Retrieving is a great way for you and your puppy to build a relationship. Secondly, you shouldn't allow your puppy to be in the yard unsupervised. The puppy should only be in the backyard when you're there. NEVER LEAVE PUPPY UNATTENDED. When you notice the puppy beginning to dig, say 'leave it', when they stop give him/her a treat and then start playing with your puppy or give puppy a kong-filled with food/peanut butter.If you are going to leave, place your puppy in a crate. Dogs are quite comfortable in a crate for up to 8 hours. Thirdly, I would place your puppy on a NO FREE LUNCH PROGRAM, meaning make your puppy work for everything. Before you feed your puppy breakfast or dinner, make the puppy 'lie down' and 'watch', once puppy has accomplished this then place the food bowl on the ground. Make your puppy "wait" at the door. Practice "downs", "sits", and "stays" throughout the day. Don't randomly pet your puppy. By randomly petting your puppy, you are giving him/her a reward for nothing. You don't want to be giving free rewards when you don't have the respect of your dog. You need to become the "pack leader" again. The last thing you need to do is probably the most important thing...and that's to start tethering the puppy to you. Get a leash and tie one end to you and the other to the puppy. Have the puppy tied to you when you are in the house. You should do this for 2 weeks. when your making dinner, watching tv, reading, vacuuming, whatever the puppy should be tied to you. I know this sounds very odd...but trust me this method has been more affective then anything else at gaining the respect of your puppy/dog and getting your "pack leader" status back. Sorry this was so long...I hope it helps. It has helped me at rehabing dogs for years.
  7. I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good border collie breeder. I live in Oregon, and am willing to travel to washington and British Columbia, Canada. Apparently I need to be more specific in my needs. I currently have a 5 year old border collie in which I got from Border Collie Rescue. I have no problem going through rescue. The reason I am looking for a BC breeder is that I have a BC with space issues. I am looking for a very specific dog. I am looking for a puppy. I want a very sweet, semi-soft, middle of the road temperament, on a scale between 1-10, i'm looking for 4 to 6. I also don't want an independent puppy. I also am looking for a fairly high drive, but not intense, just wanting to please. I am currently working my 5 year old Border Collie in obedience (CDX) and agility.
×
×
  • Create New...