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Everything posted by Carlasl

  1. I need to work with Maya on independent 2o2o contact, she is reading my movement too much when it comes to the dogwalk, She knows what she is suppose to do, but she does a few things I need to fix, first she is looking for my movement to finish the obstacle, if I lag behind or move laterally or even try to send her over the obstacle she is super slow and curls around the contact to wherever I am. I can run ahead no problem and she will stop in her 2o2o, but if my movement slows down she slows down as well. I am thinking about placing a ball or tug a few feet from the down contact and releasing her to it instead of releasing to me like I have been doing (probably my first mistake). Then slowly working my way to less and less movement on my part. I will probably use my clicker to reinforce the 2o2o. I don't really want to train a nose touch or use a disc, she is much more toy motivated than food motivated. Does anyone else have suggestions?
  2. Two minutes of work (heeling or such) and twice that time in play is a good way to keep a dog motivated. Use the toys to your advantage. Honestly I like have a toy motivated dog, I personally think my dog is much happier working for toys than for food, she seems to have more drive than a food motivated dog and seems to have a better time when we are using toys instead of food. I would say you need to break your training sessions into shorter times. If two minutes is all he will do then you need to ask him to do less than two minutes and then break into play. Every session is broken up by lots of toy play. Your dog should be anticipating a game of tug/ball might break out at any moment while you are working.
  3. Awww, she is adorable, love her ears! no guesses from me on if she is a mix, she certainly looks like a border collie.
  4. I live on the South side of KCMO, and I haven't even heard a pop yet, other than the Church professional fireworks display a BLOCK from my house, I felt so bad for the dogs, next year we will send them to Grandma's for that. But they really didn't seem that upset by them, just barked when they went off, everyone seemed just fine after the noise was over. I lost a dog over the Fourth 4yrs ago, my shepherd mix was with a housitter because my whole family was on vacation, Jessie (dog) was 10yrs old and I had rescued her as a 6mo old. The housesitter put her outside without a collar and fell asleep on the couch, of course Jessie had taken off when she finally woke up. She called me sobbing the next day, I had a hunch she may have gone to my parents house about 5mi away (crossing several busy roads), I called the housesitter at my parents and described the dog and they said OMG, she was just here 15min ago, but they didn't let her in, and she took off again, I never saw her again.
  5. I personally think Advantix (topical drop kind) works the best, but if you have them in the house you will need to treat the house as well.... There is a pill called comfortis that you can get from your Veterinarian, I hear it works great. Still probably need to treat the house.....
  6. Just curious how often and how long you train your dog, and of course what kind of drive your dog has.... Maya is almost 15mo old, and has a very high drive. We usually do some agility training almost every day, usually they are very short sessions (10-15min). She has always seemed okay with everything and I generally try to quit before she is ready (sometimes I miss it and push a little too much but not usually). Just recently she has REALLY started getting the point of all this, we have also recently start doing some very short sequences and she LOVES it, she doesn't seem to get tired of what I am asking and when we go inside to rest she is barking at me to go back out shortly. I do NOT want to burn her out on Agility, if we did a lot of work on something one day, I try to do something totally different another and I really do try have some days where we don't do any agility at all, but that is tough for me because I have so much fun. I am thrilled to have a dog like this especially after trying to train Skye for agility (she was not happy). Maya is high drive, toy AND food motivated, LOVES to learn new things, picks things up easily, doesn't shut down, and generally seems to enjoy doing everything I ask her. I am having a blast!
  7. Another huge shout out to Control Unleashed, Sounds like exactly what your dog needs, not to be de-motivated, but to learn how to focus and be controlled in highly arousing environments. Get the book and there are several DVD options out there as well.
  8. Congrats! I read all about it on your blog, sounded like a fun and intense weekend.
  9. would your trainer do some private lessons to get you up to speed and then you can join the group class?
  10. I "rented" the Susan Salo "foundations for jumping" from Clean run, you can do Video on Demand, you get it for two weeks I think and can watch it as many times as you want. I watched it and took notes and wrote out all the jumping grids. I think it cost $15....if you decided you want to buy the DVD they give you a credit ($10 I think). But honestly I was able to get everything I need just watching it a couple times and writing a lot of notes down. I am doing the grids with Maya and so far she is showing really good jumping form.
  11. I have a springer and it is okay, but my foot hits it sometimes, and once the dog (48lbs) pulled me completely over (she was wearing a harness, buckle collar worked better for her). I was thinking about getting this one http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...ELAID=525362035 It seems to have more clearance. I would never go biking with a dog on a regular leash. Either loose in the woods on trails or with a bike attachment. But I prefer to go off road mt biking when I have the dogs that way they can run behind or in front or to the side on the trails, at their own pace. I worried about the repetitive trotting and running on the hard surface on paved bike trail, and the dogs wear out much easier than the humans of course. Where my husband and I can go 10-20 mi on a bike path with no problem at all, 5mi seems to be the max for a dog that is in even good shape and we had to keep it at a natural pace for the dog, not as fast as we normally like to go.
  12. sounds like a Scam to me, you hear about that stuff all the time, you wire the money, and you never see the dog. Where are you located, maybe we can help direct you to a Border collie rescue group near your location.
  13. Thanks for the opinions, It is about two months away so I have some time to think on it. I am still not sure and probably won't be for a while. I was thinking about doing it to expose her to a trial, but in a very very relaxed way, you guys have given me a lot to think about. Some of the trials here have a "fun run" at the end of the first night and it was sort of that mentality that I was thinking of, exposing her to the trial environment without the stress of really wanting to move up like I will with NADAC and USDAA ( the two venues I plan to trial in the most). At the very least we will probably go and check it out so I can see what it is about, it is only about 20min away.
  14. Just found out there is a trial not too far away in a couple months. I was just curious what it is like especially for a novice dog. I noticed that level one has no teeter or weave poles and that the dogs only have to be 15mo old not 18mo. Maya will be 15mo that month, I was thinking it "might" be a good first trial, but I don't want to push anything yet, as she hasn't even been on a full size dog walk or A-frame yet. I am not in a hurry just curious at this point, might see what my trainer thinks. This is the first CPE trial that I know of in our area.
  15. I always miss my dogs when I am away, we will be gone today for 15hrs (out of town funeral) and I keep thinking about my girls feeling bad that most of the day they are going to be stuck in the house (a friend is coming to let them out to play for a while). I have yet to go on vacation without Maya and I am not sure I would be able to be gone more than a couple days. Most of the time anymore I am looking for places I can vacation with the dogs.
  16. CRATE TRAIN! There are a lot of posts on this subject, but you need to teach this pup what we call an "off switch", it is a common misconception that border collie's need insane amounts of exercise or they will be a menace in the house. What they need is to be taught how to settle down when it is not play time (which seems to be what you are asking for). And they need lots of "Mental" stimulation. I am a huge fan of crate training my pups, it is not a punishment or a bad place, in fact my dogs generally love their crates because from a young age I have used it as a place to chill and get good things (like meaty bones, or stuffed Kongs or bully sticks). Since I do not train my dogs on stock, I prefer to use operant conditioning with the use a clicker, basically I train with positive reinforcement (treats or toys) and I use a clicker to "mark" the correct behavior. There are tons and tons of resources out there if you are interested in that form of training. My dogs learn all sorts of things like focusing attention, cute tricks and things that are important for living in my house hold mostly in a positive way. I do use a verbal no or ah for undesirable behavior also, I want my dogs to be able to take a correction and choose another behavior and get rewarded for that as well. There are some very good books out there for trick training, if you are interested in that. I would say any time the pup is not actively being engaged in the house (with a training or play session) he is in the crate with something tasty to chew on. Or the second he does not obey a "settle" command, he goes in the crate, not as a punishment, just as a way to "help" him learn to settle. As for recall, I go about a recall two ways, the first is that until the pup has a reliable recall he is on a long line, even in a fenced in backyard, that way my command cannot be ignored, if you blow me off, you will get reeled in. At the same time obeying the "come" command is ALWAYS positive, even if I did have to reel you in, so LOTS of treats and a game of tug or whatever reward your dog likes most should happen when they get to you. If the dog does not respond to a come command and it is off leash, then the "walk down" is usually very effective also......calmly without saying a word walk straight to the dog, if they walk off follow, most dogs eventually will either lie down or come to you, I then clip the long lead on and we practice the recall with lots of rewards.
  17. haha, yeah, that darn steak throwing obstacle...lol I was also looking at where we were at and I think I have moved the two poles too close together too soon, so I am going to back them back out to 15ft apart and work the arc some more. I am really in no hurry, she is still very young and I don't want to overdo anything at this point, I wasn't even going to start this until she was 14mo old (a couple more weeks), but I know her growth plates are closed so i thought I would get started. I want her entries to be solid, I don't care about getting her weaving straight poles yet.
  18. Thanks Kristine, That is what I was thinking (work more right where she is successful and slowly move back). She does know what a NRM means (try something else) but for some reason on this she just kept trying the same thing, she hasn't run off during training, but she does start scanning and just acting bored.
  19. Yes, I didn't mention that I do reward the first set every few times also. I also typically lower criteria if the dog misses after a couple times in my normal training and since Susan really stresses not to do that with her method. I was wondering what others have done. I personally would rather lower criteria rather than have a discouraged or bored dog. Maya is pretty solid, she doesn't really get discouraged or shut down with a NRM, or by continually missing something, just gets bored and will be like, this is stupid, lets blow this Popsicle stand and do something else that is FUN!
  20. Hey guys, I know quite a few of you have trained with this method and I have a question Right now Maya is at the point of two sets of 2x2's spaced about 7ft apart with both at 2 and 8 o'clock. She does really well getting the entrance through most of the arc, but when we get to the bottom on both sides she will just take that second set of weave poles every time over and over. I know Susan says not to make it easier for the dog and let them figure it out but Maya gets bored with me saying oops over and over and her not getting a reward and she just seems to have trouble getting that part. Most of the time, I make it a tiny bit easier and when she gets it we have a party and stop there for playtime or rest. Any suggestions?
  21. We have quite a few NADAC trails close to me (within an hour or two anyway). Almost one a month. Looking forward to it when Maya is old enough and we are ready. But other than AKC that is about it. There is one or two USDAA trials a year within a couple hours.
  22. The one I used didn't fabricate them they just cut everything for me. My husband has a welder so he is going to put them together. There is just a metal place in town that will cut the metal you buy. I am sure you could find someone who would make them for you, but it probably wouldn't be much cheaper than just buying some of the ones online that are already put together.
  23. I just got back from the "metal shop" they cut everything to size for me and all that is left is getting hubby to weld them together and then I am gonna paint them with a rust proof primer and then a textured paint coat. The metal for 3 sets of 2x2 cost $42, so the entire cost once I am done should be less than $50. I cannot wait to get started on this, okay I have done a little bit of the one set of 2x2's but I am ready to get this girl weaving! I am already really impressed with this method just from the first set of 2x2's. Maya is such a thinker and this is the perfect method for her to learn. bare metal ready to be turned into 2x2 bases.
  24. As far as what to expect at your first beginner agility class that is tough to say. Everyone teaches classes differently, I have heard of some people doing sequencing and being on full size equipment after just a few classes. But I don't think I would recommend that. The place I train at doesn't even put you on any equipment for the first 6wks, it is all foundation stuff, games to play for attention and to teach things like focus, stays, beginning handling exercises (flat work or heel work on both sides) you learn front and rear crosses on the flat, we play bang it games with a tippy board, and plank work and beginning 2o2o contact work. After that there is a 6wk class that starts on 1/2 size equipment and channel weaves, the next 6wks puts on you on full size equipment (all at the dogs pace of course) and the very beginning of sequencing. After that you move to the sequencing classes, and they move up in difficulty as your skill level increases. For your pup, get him used to walking on ALL kinds of surfaces (loud, tippy, wobbly surfaces) teach him front and hind end awareness, LOTS of heel work on either side, lots of focus and attention games. And I would recommend teaching your pup to have a LOT of value in a game of tug.
  25. I seriously thinking about putting vinyl plank (wood look) flooring in my kitchen/living room (all one room), I like the wood look and the ease of cleaning, but hate the slippery floors, the worries about water spills. I have looked at a lot of flooring and they really look neat.
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