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Everything posted by MaryP

  1. I think it's pretty silly to refer to different harnesses, etc., as "gadgets." A flat collar and a leash are "gadgets." It's purpose is physically restrain the dog and prevent it from leaving you while on the leash. Not all dogs are sound in temperament, either. Not all dogs can be trained simply by voice and pressure alone. And training "gadgets" can be very useful to help control the dog so that training can begin.
  2. This is a sign of stress. It was probably more than your dog was ready for at this stage. A traditional obedience class is probably not what you need, or are ready for, right now. In obedience classes, they are going to focus on teaching basic obedience commands. You need a trainer that will help you develop a behavior modification program for your dog. If you can't get one-on-one training, then look for a "reactive dog" class or a Contol Unleashed class. In these classes, the focus will be on working toward changing your dog's reaction to various stimuli and on desensitising her to the things that cause her to react inappropriately. Ideally, a vet behaviorist would be best. Not because there aren't great behavior modification trainers out there, but because it's not always easy to know if the trainer you selected has the skills that you need. At least with a vet behaviorist, you know that they have met some standard of knowledge and training and will most likely have the skillset to help you. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like there are any certified vet behaviorists in your area. It looks like the closest one is in Knoxville. ETA: A good start might be to contact West Tennessee Border Collie Rescue and ask if they can recommend a trainer in your area. They are probably going to be very knowledgeable about who would be the best trainer to work with your particular dog's issues. www.tnbordercollierescue.com
  3. There's a lot going on here and I think your best bet is to get help from a good trainer. You have a dog with guarding and fear aggression issues. You want to get a handle on these issues as soon as possible because they will only get worse the longer she practices them. Reading some threads won't be enough. You need hands on help from a good trainer who has experience with behavior issues. In the meantime, you could do yourself a lot of good by educating yourself on dog behavior and how to interpret canine body language. A book that I really like is "The other end of the leash." It's a good book for teaching the basics about dog behavior and why dogs do the things they do. Another good book for reactive dogs like yours is "Control Unleased." There is a DVD called "Calming Signals" that is good, too. There's lots of other resources out there and I'm sure that others will suggest some of their favorites. But, get a good hands-on trainer. Your dog has already given you some warning signs that she finds some things to be scary and/or overstimulating. You don't want her to progress from barking to biting, because biting is the next step. As far as how to handle Halloween, crate your dog in another room, preferably far away from the front door. Give her a nice bone or chewy to occupy herself. Oh, also, Google "Nothing in Life is Free." This approach can be very effective at helping to correct problem behaviors.
  4. I think you can accomplish the same thing with a head harness and there's no pinching involved. I also like the easy walk body harness, but for real stubborn dogs, a head harness can be a very effective tool during training.
  5. Teach him the "leave it" command and then tell him to "leave it" whenever he goes to grab the leash. Since labs tend to be mouthy, I would also try to get him interested in a ball or similar toy. After telling him to "leave it," give him the toy. Hopefully, he'll learn to redirect his oral fixation to the toy rather than the leash.
  6. I was thinking seizure as well. I've seen both tonic and tonic-clonic seizures in people, and that's what first popped into my mind when I read your description. The dog is right about the age that most epileptic dogs start to have clinical seizures, too. Another vote for going to a neurologist.
  7. A word of caution. I just recieved an email about a member of my agility club's dog, a GR, that passed away suddenly after going into seizures yesterday. The dog was not very old (probably less than 4 or 5). They are doing a necropsy to see if they can find out why but are suspecting that it was the new heartworm, Trifexis, that they started him on. Of course, the two could be completely unrelated, but it's something to think about.
  8. Comfortis works well and I will give it occasionally. But, the last time I gave it, two dogs vomitted about 10-15 minutes later. I was bummed because the stuff isn't cheap. Has anyone had any problems with stomach upset with Trifexis?
  9. I think it depends on the dog. I've had dogs that graduated to off-leash very quickly - within days. Usually, these are the super toy-focused and/or very biddable dogs, though. Most of our off-leash time is still within a fenced area, though, so maybe that doesn't count. But, when we are at the beach, there's no fence and I can tell pretty quickly if a dog will be able to graduate to off-leash, usually within the first few visits. Then, I've had other dogs that never graduated to off-leash the entire time that I had them. Those tend to be the non-border collies, and non-toy focused dogs, IME. BUT, some dogs take longer to show you their "true" dog and 5 days would not be enough time, IMO. I always keep foster dogs a minimum of 2 weeks before considering putting them up for adoption because I think for most dogs, a minimum of two weeks is needed to get a good feel for the dog and the type of home that will work best for it. Also, adopters are given a 30-day "trial" period, though that's not exactly what we call it. But, if their dog is not working out for any reason within 30 days of adoption, we will refund them their adoption fee (and take the dog back, obviously). How long was the dog in the rescue? I would talk to the rescue to see what their evaluation of him is. Hopefully, they kept him long enough to get a good idea about his potential for sports. As far as building toy drive and motivation, that would not be so much a concern to me. I think there are plenty of ways to do that. I'd be more concerned about the dog's potential to be trusted off leash. Of course, there are ways to work on that, too. But, IMO, there are some dogs that just are runners and will exploit the opportunity to run no matter what. ^^ Yes, yes, I agree with this. Also, try different toys. You may not have found the toy that trips his fancy, yet. Some dogs are toy generalists, but many have very specific toys that they like and will play with.
  10. A cup of Canadae and chicken wing, . . . Yeah, he's probably still hungry. I'd continue to give him dry food to make up for meals until you've figured out your raw feeding schedule.
  11. Make sure you are giving more than just chicken (with bone), if you switch completely to raw. He will not be getting enough protein and other nutritional components that he needs. When we were raising a litter of puppies, we would mix up a big batch of ground beef with a little bit of liver, and egg with shell, tripe, and a little yogurt and pumpkin. That would be given as "breakfast" and "lunch." Then, the last meal was a chicken wing or back (when they were around 6-7 weeks old), or a drumstick (when they got to be about 8 weeks old).
  12. Ditto on the scraping for diagnosis. I had a couple of dogs with ringworm a few years ago. We treated it with Lotrimin. It takes several weeks to go away.
  13. Unless you live in the southeast where doxy is one of the free antibiotics offered at Publix pharmacies.
  14. Also, even if you vaccinate for Lepto, your dog could still get Lepto, since it doesn't cover all strains. So, if your dog shows any signs of Lepto, regardless of vaccination status, you would (should) treat it as if it did have Lepto. If someone feels better vaccinating for Lepto, that's their choice. I just think that it's one of those cases where the risk outweighs the benefit. But, that's just my opinion and anyone is free to disagree.
  15. My friend has a rescue Pap that she runs in agility. After her other dogs got older and were close to/or retired from agility, she thought she'd downsize to a Pap. Her thought was that she, herself, was getting older and so she should get a smaller dog that she could better keep up with in her older age. Boy, was she wrong! LOL! That little Pap can run circles around most border collies.
  16. You mean this guy? Ollie is very smart and athletic and is very similar to Charlie, personality-wise. But, I think he's a mix. He could have bc in him, but his bouncy, happy-go-lucky style makes me think it's more likely that he has some Aussie in him. Or, perhaps he's part Tigger the Tiger.
  17. My rescue bc of unknown breeding (likely a byb dog) is 24" at the shoulder and 52 pounds. He's a beast. He's also kind of a nerd. My other three are likely mixes and may or may not have bc in them.
  18. I Googled it. Continuum is a brand name. I'll bet it was a distemper combo vaccine. Personally, I'd ditch the Bordetella, Lepto, and Lyme. But, that's just me. Not sure about the limping. It could be coincindence or it could be vaccine related. It could be that the dog is sore at the shoulder (a common locatoin for vaccines) and is limping because of it.
  19. I sent you mojo through FB and now I'm sending you mojo through the boards. That's double the mojo! I'm sure it's nothing, but it's good to get it checked out. How long will it take to get the results?
  20. I probably should just stay out of it for fear of being accused of trying to force rescue on someone. But, I agree with RDM. If you want to buy a puppy, that's your prerogative. You can do whatever you want. But, just admit that instead of claiming you are trying to avoid a tragic experience like your friend went through. You aren't guaranteeing that you'll avoid any future issues (health or otherwise) by going to a breeder versus going to a rescue or a shelter, especially when you are talking puppy versus adult dog. Hey, I love puppies, too, and all four of my current dogs were obtained from rescues or shelters as puppies. I'm a sucker for a puppy. I admit it. Two of my good friends have added dogs to their families over the past few years (not BCs, but other breeds). They both talked about possibly going the rescue route, but both went the breeder route in the end. Friend 1 did all her research and tried to control as many variables as possible. She bought a puppy and planned to train her for agility. The puppy ended up with elbow dysplasia and cannot do agility. A couple of years later, she bought another puppy. She did all her research and tried to control as many variables as possible. She hoped to do agility with the second dog. The puppy blew out a knee before it was a year and a half old. It's future as an agility dog is still uncertain. Friend number two was DETERMINED that she was going to research to death the breeders and lines so that she would get a good, healthy puppy. Her previous dog passed away from a liver tumor at age 12. Not all that unusual, but she was determined that her next dog would be genetically perfect and destined to live a long life. That puppy had nothing but problems for the first 6 months of it's life. She was at numerous vets and spent boat loads of money trying to figure out why it was so sickly. Eventually, the puppy grew out of all the health problems, but it is a behavioral nightmare. It's lucky to have ended up with my friend, because most other dog owners would have given up on it a long time ago. I can safely say that she did not, at all, get the dog that she thought she was going to get. So, yes, even when you go to a breeder, it's gonna be a crap shoot in many ways. Not everything that can be genetic is tested for or can be tested for. Again, if you want to buy a puppy from a breeder, that's your right. But, it's still a crap shoot.
  21. Stop Googling! No, seriously, I'm the same way. It's impossible to not worry and I know I'll be sitting on the edge of my seat until I see an update on your vet visit tomorrow. But, I'm sure Alex will be just fine. I'll send him lots and lots of mojo anyway, though.
  22. Oh gosh, that sounds so similar to what I went through with Ollie. He also had to have a second surgery due to complications after the first one. It was sooo scary and I felt so helpless. But, he did really well after the second surgery and I hope that you will have the same outcome with Kit. Sending all the positive, healing energy I can muster your way.
  23. OK, so I looked at the chart that Jodi (I mistakenly said Angie before) posted. For FL, it says that the records can be released to a veterinarian responsible for caring for the dog. So, I'll just ask my vet to request a copy of the certificate. I wish I had looked at earlier, since I just came from my vet's office. I could have asked them to do it while I was there.
  24. I haven't looked at the link, yet, that Angie posted, but if it is a law, it simply makes no sense. Who would be being protected? I mean, I am then stuck between two laws. One tells me that I have to be able to provide proof, in the form of a rabies certificate, that the dog is current on rabies. But, the other law (if there's one) tells me that I can't have access to that proof, even though they are willing to tell me over the phone that the dog received the vaccine, even the day, month, and year. But, I can't have a copy of the certificate that includes the vaccine info and vet signature, as required by law. Their recourse for me was to wait until the vaccination is due again in January, which would technically be illegal should my AC ask me to show proof of rabies. Or, they said that I could vaccinate the dog early, which, to me, seems absolutely ridiculous and irresponsible.
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