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silhouettestable

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Everything posted by silhouettestable

  1. With all mine I've found just keeping stuff back from the edge when I'm not watching and constant supervision the rest of the time has been sufficient for them to learn not to touch food on the counter. Even with meat on the counter (eg. roast on the cutting board, or roast chicken or something), I'll sit down to eat dinner while the leftovers cool and the dogs will leave it alone. If my mom's over she's always telling me to push it back further so the dogs don't get it but they never do. I'm attentive when there's there's something tempting and if they get too close looking, sniffing etc. they get an "Ahhh!" or a "leave it" and they go lie down. Anyhow, they've learned that their turn will come and when I'm putting the meat way there are always a few scraps for everyone to share, they just have to be patient. I guess you could say I put them "on trial" when I'm there to keep an eye on them and they learn that counter surfing is not acceptable. When they were younger I have also told them "off!" and pushed them down if they tried to put feet up, or clapped my hands loudly along with the verbal correction.
  2. Though not as big as a jolly ball, one kind that I've found to be really tough are the red rubber balls made by KONG. My dogs normally destroy everything too but they've had a Kong ball for a long time and haven't damaged it at all.
  3. I've never heard that before. In all my years of horse showing I always sprayed it all over the horses after bathing them with no apparent bad effects. Same with the dogs, though they get bathed very infrequently so they I don't use the Showsheen on them very often. Years ago I did a high school co-op placement at a vet practice and the groomer that worked there used Showsheen on her show dogs.
  4. Try Absorbine ShowSheen Spray it on, work it in and the hair will be slippery like you've Armour All'd it so it will make it easier to remove the burrs. Best thing would be when you do get the burrs all out, spray the dogs well to help prevent more burrs (or at least make them easier to remove in future) Whenever I bath my rough-coated dogs I'll use ShowSheen on them to help repel dirt, twigs, etc. and prevent tangles. Noah has so much coat and Storm hates grooming so the Showsheen helps.
  5. I have the "Border Collies are like Potato Chips..." window cling, though not on my truck because of the tinted windows. Also a cling on my front door that says "Premises Protected by Border Collie Security Services" You can find tons of clings, magnets, license plates etc. on eBay. Just do a general search of "all categories" for "border collie" to see what comes up, or to be more specific "border collie magnets" or similar.
  6. I either clip a lot or don't clip at all depending on the season. When there's snow on the ground the nails grow quickly and I clip them at least once a week on most of my dogs, some of them I do every few days to keep them at just the right length. When the ground is hard and dry my guys all wear their nails down so much that they don't need any trimming, except possibly the dew claws, though some of them don't even need that. To be honest, I worry about how much Flurry wears his down, I'm surprised they don't hurt.
  7. Thanks for all that info. I think I may have been a bit unclear in my first post about what I meant by "out" I wasn't thinking of leaving them outside, just wondering when would be safe to move them from my basement with the heat lamp, to inside the chicken coop where there is no electricity. At the coop I have 2 options where I can put them when I move them. There is an area where I raise meat chickens and turkeys that is currently unoccupied, or I have another smaller area with one peacock and he has a little doorway to an outdoor pen that has a pool set up in it from when I had a couple of geese. The peacock goes in and out during the daytime but gets shut in for the night. The meat bird pen would be strictly indoors. I also have laying hens that are currently free-ranging but I wouldn't put the ducklings in with them where they could end up lost or hurt. I don't plan to leave the ducks outside 24/7 even when they're older, we get too many predators around here. Last fall I had coyotes coming after my free-ranging chickens even in the day time, and just a few days ago I lost 3 hens to a coon because I didn't get out to shut them in when it got dark. Was in bed all day with a migraine headache and late that night when I was letting the dogs outside I heard a ruckus coming from the coop and went to investigate. Was missing 7 hens but 4 came back the next day unharmed.
  8. I got myself some ducklings recently, 6 rouens that are now 2 1/2 weeks old. I've never raised ducks before but have lots of experience with chicks and turkeys. My coop has no electricity so I always start them in my basement under a heat lamp and them move them out later. My question is, how long should I keep the ducklings in the house before I can move them out to the coop? Our temperatures have been variable, pretty crazy really. Very up and down. Some days have been around 15C, others only around 10 and yet there have been a few in the mid 20's. Last night we had frost again, but that's only happening occasionally now. The ducklings are growing fast but seem to feather in at a different rate compared to chicks and turkeys, they're still all fuzzy. At this age with the chickens I'd be seeing feathers coming in. I don't want to rush them out too soon and get them sick though it would be nice to get them out of my house.
  9. I've fed Nutro Natural Choice large breed formula (dry) for years (at least 7) without any problems whatsoever. I've heard concerns raised from time to time but any time I looked into it there was never any evidence to say that any pet illnesses were definitely linked to the food. (other than during that huge recall when some of their wet foods were affected) I think with so many recent concerns about food safety we're going to see a lot of situations where someone reads about a possible problem, then their dog vomits and they say "OMG! I feed that brand, it must be the food!" (while in the meantime the dog may have just ate piles of grass or something). I've fed it for so long and my dogs have done fantastic on it so I'm not convinced. Tommy Coyote - I haven't looked into the Max ingredients, but the Natural Choice chicken & rice has chicken meal as it's first ingredient and so does the Natural Choice high energy, plus it has lamb meal further down the list. All that being said, I just switched foods because of cost. I was paying $52.99 for a 17kg bag of Nutro Natural Choice large breed adult chicken & rice, and $59.99 for the high energy. I've now been getting the Kirkland Signature chicken, rice and vegetable from Costco for $29.99 for an 18kg bag. I've read so many discussions about the Kirkland food recently and everyone seems to be in agreement that for the price it's a good food so I decided to give it a try. The dogs like it and everyone seems to be doing well on it. It's a bit early to say too much, I've only recently switched them but so far they still have the same energy levels and beautiful luxurious and glossy coats and no change in the stools except the colour.
  10. Anything that smells good/tastes good to bait the water should help. I use chicken broth when we're racing as my dogs don't all drink clear water well at the races where there's a lot of excitement around them (it's homemade broth - we eat a lot of chicken in the winter so I can make broth for the dogs and of course they get some of the chicken too in their dinners!) I've heard of others also using a handful of kibble in the water (different brand than normal will sometimes tempt them more), meat meal, gravy and various soups or a bit of raw ground meat in the water.
  11. I looked for the KONG literature I thought I had but couldn't find it. We do have a few packages of their edible treats that all say they're made in the USA. I don't normally buy the treats for stuffing but my daughter won a prize pack from KONG for one of their kids contests that included them. I got really curious though about whether KONG toys are manufactured in the US or China and tried to search online. I came across a couple of articles about them going solar at their manufacturing plant in Golden, CO http://www.renewableenergyworld.com/rea/pa...g-company-51361 http://www.bellaenergy.com/ProjectOfTheMonth/Kong Interesting
  12. I don't know, I'm pretty sure that brand name KONG's (not the cheap copies) are made in the US. I tried looking it up on their website but I haven't found where they're manufactured, just a recall assurance after the peanut butter scare (since some of their products contain peanut butter). This is what the site had to say about that: " January 20, 2009 Dear KONG Customer, No KONG pet treat is involved in the recent recall of peanut butter. We do not receive any ingredients from the company involved. Since we ship worldwide, KONG pet treats are subject to strict regulations regarding the presence of Salmonella. All KONG consumables meet with recommended heat treatments (cook times and temperatures) and each batch is tested by certified third party laboratories for Salmonella and Enterobacteriaceae. No KONG consumable has ever tested positive for either pathogen, nor has any KONG consumable been subject to recall. All KONG pet treat manufactures are inspected and certified by USDA / APHIS. The KONG Company sells two peanut butter flavored dog treats. The peanut butter flavor in KONG Stuff’N Peanut Butter Flavored Treat (paste) contains no peanut butter. The peanut butter ingredient used in KONG Peanut Butter Snacks comes from North Hampton Peanut Company. The North Hampton Peanut Company is in no way involved in the recall. Additional information is available at www.nationalpeanutboard.org http://www.nationalpeanutboard.org/ and http://www.fda.gov/oc/opacom/hottopics/salmonellatyph.html Sincerely, Chuck Costello Product Manager" I think I still have some KONG literature hanging around somewhere, I'm going to see if I can find it and if it says where they're made. I could swear it's in the US, in fact I seem to remember even taking one of their survey's one time and one of the questions was if you'd be more likely to buy KONG products because of them being made in North America. Here's another toy that's US made and supposed to be very tough. I just remembered a friend telling me about them GoughNuts
  13. Kongs are great and they make a wide variety of products, not just the stuffable rubber ones. They have tennis toys with squeakers, tug toys, wubbas, retrieval Kongs (on a rope for throwing) and the flyer (disc). Most of their products are really durable too. My guys are really hard on toys but most Kongs hold up really well.
  14. Here's a link to another supplier: AKKO Sports Scroll down the page, it's near the bottom. I deal with this company for harnesses and other mushing supplies and their quality and customer service is excellent.
  15. Careful, that might catch on. I remember when horse colours went by just the basic names, now they have cremellos, sabinos, perlinos, silver dapples and a whole host of other ones that I couldn't even begin to understand. Mine are bays and chesnut and that's just fine with me. Makes sense, I just didn't know if they were still considered to be black, or had some other name. One of mine is like that, looking at him alone he looks black & white but beside the others he does not look as black, more of an "off black" or brown/black. When the sunlight picks up his highlights he has a very definite reddish cast to his coat, and it's not stressed, he's very sleek and shiny and in good health. I still call him a black & white, but didn't really know if there's a more correct term. Even without the sheep. This is what my field looks like right now. My guys are not very happy that I've been leaving them behind the last couple of days when I'm doing chores, but this is a bit much for 8 of them to go tearing through and then into the house! and this is the backyard
  16. I was reading the thread about the "lemon" & white pup, and the ensuing discussion and it raised a question for me. Are all red dogs called red, regardless of what shade they are? I mean everything from dark chocolate brown to liver, to what would be called sable in a rough collie, right to the palest shade of "blonde" or "lemon". And what would you call a dog that at first glance appears black but has strong red highlights to the coat and looks very reddish in certain lighting?
  17. Mine too! I used to feed more than I do now and the dogs were a bit pickier eaters then, not always cleaning it up so I'd leave it (dry kibble) in the bowls for later. Flash would clean up the leftovers if not watched. He especially seemed to like the puppy food. I'm sure it happened slowly, but all of a sudden one day I took a look at him and realized he looked like a sausage on legs and made some changes around here! I started picking up any leftovers, plus realized that they were all getting more than needed and cut everyone back a bit. Now when I feed they all lick their bowls clean within a few minutes and then they go around checking everyone else's bowl to see if anything was missed. You'd think they were starved but they're maintaining a nice weight, nice a trim and muscled but without the extra flab.
  18. Personal experience speaking here, I feed lots of chicken to my dogs with absolutely no problem. When they're sledding I often have roast chicken for dinner just so I have the leftovers for the dogs. I feed them bits as a treat but also boil up all the leftovers into a soup for the dogs. Usually strain off the broth and fat and give them that to drink at the races (they'll drink more of that than plain water and need to stay hydrated). When they get home they get the meat (including skin/fat/gristle/everything except bone) in with their kibble. I also give them any/all other kinds of meat scraps and gravy we have leftover (plus they love veggies). I think dogs with a less active life style would be less likely to tolerate it the same, but generally mushers seem to feed lots of extra meat and fats to their dogs for added protein and energy, and the dogs burn it off so they don't develop health issues from it.
  19. Like everyone else has said, you need to assess how she feels to your touch as well as how she looks. I never go by the feeding guidelines on the bags, don't even look at them. My dogs range in size from about 40 pounds up to 90 and get fed 1 1/2 to 3 cups a day depending on the dog and the work they're doing. My largest dog actually doesn't get the most, he tends to be an "easy keeper" so he only eats about 1 3/4 cups/day. Btw, he's not a BC at 90 pounds! He's a rough collie. My yearling Flurry (BC) is a tall, long, gangly kind of dog, weighing in at 58 pounds last time he was on a scale (back in the fall) and he's been working all winter on the sled so he eats the most at 3 cups/day. Protein and fat content of the food will make a difference too obviously. My non-working fatter dogs get a lower fat diet and the others eat a high energy, higher fat diet when working. I'm constantly re-evaluating how the dogs look and feel and how much I'm feeding as my training regime changes.
  20. Other than poison, I doubt there's much that will harm a chicken. My layers can and do eat anything and everything they come across, in addition to their feed. We don't compost anything because all food scraps end up going either to the dogs or the chickens. In addition to things like veggies, fruits and breads they also love pasta and meat, really anything that's remotely edible. I don't have any plowed fields, but I let mine out to free range and they do a good job of breaking up the horse manure. I've heard of the idea of a portable house, I think it's called a chicken tractor? I bet the heavy meat chickens would be much healthier foraging for most of their food. If fed too heavily on a commercial diet that's easily available to them they can be prone to leg problems and heart attacks. I used to feed mine heavier to grow them bigger sooner but now I limit their food more and they have no leg problems and I loose very few. I don't free range them just because I'm afraid they might get trampled by the horses, they're quite a bit slower moving than the layers.
  21. Like everyone else has said, RUN, away from that "trainer". If your free lessons end up making Spirit dog aggressive (which it doesn't sound like she is) then in the end the free lessons are going to end up being quite costly in many ways. The headaches, heartaches, and potentially financially as well if you then have to pay for more lessons from a proper trainer or behaviourist to deal with a problem that could have been avoided. And if this "trainer" is so clueless in that respect, do you really think they're any better in other regards? I'd be doubtful.
  22. Where do you get that? Here's the first 10 ingredients listed again, : Chicken, Chicken meal, whole grain brown rice, cracked pearl barley, chicken fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols and Vitamin E) , egg product, beet pulp, potatoes, fish meal, flaxseed I've heard good things about this food and if I had to switch my dogs I'd be seriously considering it. It would save me a bundle over what I'm feeding now to 8 dogs. They're just doing so well on what I feed now that I'm hesitant to mess with what's working well. You know the old saying, if it ain't broke don't fix it (as long as I don't go broke feeding them!)
  23. Mine pretty much all sleep on, around or under my bed at this time of year. When it's hot some of them prefer the hallway or the cooler bathroom floor. Unless it's really hot I almost always have Lightning and Rain on the bed with me, sometimes in the morning Rain is sharing my pillow or DH's after he's gone to work. Sometimes Flurry likes to climb up and lay across the top of the pillows, up against the headboard. He only gets away with that if it's just me in bed, not DH. Storm prefers the bed when there are no people in it to disturb him, so he usually hops off when we get in. Flash is the same, he usually only sleeps on the bed when he doesn't have to share it with other dogs or people. Dru gets on it sometimes but doesn't yet get the chance to really sleep there since he's still crated at night (beside my bed) and if I'm away. Thunder is sometimes a bed dog but he seems to get hot easily and will often choose the floor, hallway or a couch in the living room. Noah doesn't get on the furniture so he sleeps beside the bed or in the hall.
  24. Haven't heard of them but maybe they run in the mid-distance and I go to the sprint races. Or they may be involved in races further north than where I go. Just got the photo album on my site updated with more pictures from the last 2 weekends. They can be viewed here: Race photos
  25. What about bikejoring or scootering with him on the forest trails when he's a bit older?
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