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About silhouettestable

  • Birthday 04/16/1971

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    Dogs, dogs, dogs...more dogs, dogsledding, agility... :)
    Okay, horses and all other animals too, plus outdoor activities - dogsledding, riding, camping, hiking with the dogs, swimming with the dogs etc.

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  1. Thanks nice to be back. Hopefully this little old laptop keeps going at least a few more weeks, I have a nice new one on order for my daughter for Christmas that I plan to share
  2. Wow! I haven't been on this forum in AGES, cause my computer was messed up and wasn't letting me into some sites. It finally crashed and now I'm on an even older laptop that can't seem to access everything online cause it's so old and I'm testing what I CAN get into. Lo and behold, first time back on this board and one of the first things I read is about BC's pulling :D/> Not only can they pull, they can do it well. We use ours for skijoring, sprint racing, a bit of mid-distance racing and recreation. We do dryland training with a 3-wheeled rig and scooter and have raced dryland too, but my preference is running on snow with a sled. My daughter and I both race 4 dog teams in the 4 mile sprint classes and I've done 6 dog 15 miles and plan to do that again this winter and a 6 dog 20 mile class too, in addition to our sprint racing. I often hook up an 8 dog team for training and fun too. I usually log my training runs and races and have put on over 300 miles in a season. As for how BC's compare with other breeds for pulling, in the classes I enter I always finish in the top half of the class. We are competing against teams of siberian huskies, alaskan huskies (a type developed over many years for racing and faster than the majority of purebred sibes), greysters (greyhound mix), pointers and other houndy mixes (some called eurohounds). I train with a cycling computer or a gps and have logged my dogs max speed at 25.7mph (yes, miles, not km) They don't maintain that speed, that would just be coming out of the starting chute. I usually record a max of 20 or 21 when training but speeds fluctuate throughout a run and average training speeds for a whole run are often more around 10-12mph and racing averages around 14-16mph. The winning teams are averaging speeds of about 20mph. One race I go to also has a weight pull and for fun I entered a dog in it last year. He's not purebred BC, he's BC/lab mix. He did very well and ended up coming 2nd. He had completed his last pull and could have tried again to go for a win but it was his first time doing a weight pull and he was getting tired. My friend's dog who was also still in it was looking less tired and I figured would win anyhow so I didn't want to demoralize my dog by asking him to do more when he was already trying so hard and getting tired. So I decided to stop while he was having fun and we took 2nd Something else we had some fun with last year was I was asked to take part in an elementary school's winter carnival and give dogsled rides. there was barely any snow so I started with only 4 dogs until they tired a bit (would have been no stopping a big team in those conditions) and then added in more dogs after so I had 8 on for hauling the kids around. We gave rides to over 200 kids that day. The next day we had another interesting "job". I'd been hired to deliver a bride by dogsled to her outdoor wedding, on the lake in front of her cottage. She met me at the public boat launch and I drove her about a mile or so down the lake and into the bay by her family's cottage. Dropped her off for the ceremony and I took the dogs for a spin around the lake and then back to the wedding for photos. It was lots of fun for the bride, guests and us and some of the children in attendance also got a little ride in the sled :)/> ETA:I usually harness break dogs somewhere around 8-10 months of age but keep it very short and fun with no real weight. They're about a year old before I start doing more and gradually work up the distances they're running as they gain experience and condition. As with any activity, you don't want to rush to do too much too early and injure your dog although running in harness is fairly low impact since there is no jumping, no sudden stopping or turning. It's just running smoothly straight forward with teammates also helping pull what little weight there is to a sled or training rig. If you're going to be doing any pulling it's important to get a proper harness designed for the type of work your dog will be doing. There are many different types of pulling harnesses available for different builds of dogs and different types of pulling. A freighting harness would be used for weight pull or other heavy pulling; one of the many different kinds of sledding harness would be used for sledding, dryland training or skijoring; or a carting harness for carting (different again than dryland rigs)
  3. Haven't been on for a while...just catching up with this now. I did go ahead and get them processed and have sold some to help offset the cost. The rest I'm keeping for the dogs. I did think about skinning but I wanted to keep the skin and fat for the dogs. I feed a kibble based diet but supplement with various meats for extra protein and fat when the dogs are working doing training runs and racing (sled dogs). I raise chickens for our own use and in the colder months I tend to cook it frequently so the dogs often get chicken, chicken soup or broth, hearts and livers, whole raw eggs etc. plus my neighbour has started giving me a bunch of meat from her freezer whenever she decides to clear it out. Nothing wrong with it but every now and then she decides to make room for fresher stuff she gets in her freezer orders. From her I've gotten: ground beef, stew beef, chicken, fish, lamb, pork, venison etc. Depending what I pull out of the freezer I might just thaw and feed raw or I might cook it up in a roast pan and then kind of stew it and take bones out.
  4. No input on the LGD's but I hope your other ducks return unharmed. I had a neighbour's dog go after my chickens one day back in the early summer but luckily I was home and ran out and he took off. I went and told the neighbour and he's never been back. He injured one chicken bad enough that it died but when the others scattered a bunch of them went up into the bush. I didn't know how many might have been dead or missing but the rest came back okay. I hope the same happens with your ducks.
  5. They do pass and he heals all up except the hair is a bit thinner in some spots so he has a bit of a scarred look. Luckily it seems to look worse than it feels because he really doesn't act much bothered by it other than when it's bad around the eyes, at which time he rubs it along the fence and makes it bleed and scab worse. Yes there is more than one condition referred to as collie nose, one is solar nasal dermatitis which usually affects dogs that have white markings and pink skin above the nose. The others are the auto-immune disorders. The only way to be sure would be to have it biopsied and go from there. Treatment in that case could include prednisone which I'm hesitant to put him on for an extended period. Last time the vet saw him she suggested I manage it by keeping him out of the sun, using sunscreen on him and she also gave me an anti-inflammatory/antibacterial eye ointment to put on around the eyes to help soothe that area. I also use a zinc oxide cream on the rest of his face and ear tips and since I suspect seasonal allergies are contributing I'm also currently giving him Benadryl. It's not as bad now as in these pictures. The sores on his nose are now healed and the pink on the nose leather is turning black again. The bridge of the nose is still bald and pink but not as raw looking as a couple of weeks ago.
  6. I also missed this post the first time around. I'm glad his nose is better now but keep a close watch on it in future. My rough collie Noah has had "nose issues" for the last 2-3 years and each time it comes back it gets worse. The first time all that happened was he lost a bit of pigment above his nose for a few months and then the colour came back. Now when he gets it he looses hair all up the bridge of the nose, around the eyes, tips of his ears and gets all scabby. This most recent time he also lost pigment on some of the nose leather and got sores there too. And, in conjunction with all that going on with his face he he's been getting terrible hot spots on the back of his thighs and under his belly. He's turning 9 in October and he's only been getting all this happening in the last 2-3 years. He's been seen by the vet who did a skin scraping on his face which came back negative for mange, yeast or bacterial infections. I suspect environmental allergies are contributing to Noah's problems, he only gets this in the warmer months and in the winter he's fine no matter how much time he spends out in the sun then. Here are some pictures showing the progression of what he looked like the first time he experienced any problems, and more recent ones I took a few weeks ago. His face is now looking better than when I took these most recent pictures but the hot spots have started again.
  7. I think I'm going to be there Sunday. Was planning to go for sure (probably more than one day) but things changed. Busy with work and my brother and I have to take care of some family business and he may only be available to come up on Saturday. Still hoping to get there Sunday though unless more plans change. At least I'm close enough (about an hour northeast of the trial) that I can go "spur of the moment" if that's the way things work out.
  8. Reminds me of one of my dogs recently....in town, working geese one evening and there was a crowd of people around for the friday evening music by the river (band set up, people standing & sitting all around, some walking the paths along the river, some with dogs etc.) Anyhow, my dog was totally focused on the geese swimming downstream, ignoring the people, dogs, etc. completely intent on the geese...so much so she jumped right over some guy laying on the grass much to his surprise and the crowd's entertainment Nothing gets between her and her geese
  9. You can get neoprene wraps for support/protection from sled dog suppliers. Here's one example: Booties & Wraps Not sure where you're located but you can find links to various suppliers if you check out this site and click on the "equipment and supplies" link (left side, scroll down) Sled Dog Central
  10. Have you looked on ebay? I haven't been on there in a long time but there are often various stickers, decals and license plate frames available on there. Another thought would be to make up your own through a site like Cafe Press or Vista Print. Can't remember if Vista Print does stickers but they do make decals and you can choose to have them made for inside or outside the window in case your windows are tinted dark. Everything is completely customizable so you can upload the photo/graphic you want and ad the text in whatever font/colour you want to. Or just upload the complete design as is, as long as it is high enough quality to give you a nice finished product. I've only used Cafe Press once for some bumper stickers but I've ordered a lot from Vista Print...usuaslly when they're offering free promotional stuff and I only pay the shipping, or for extra customization beyond the basic item they're offering free. Some of the things I've gotten there include business cards, letterhead, mouse pad, banner, truck door magnets ( there's another thought for you, they have different sizes & styles of magnets available), note pads, pens, notebook, keychain, t-shirts, hats.....you can find them either at vistaprint.com or vistaprint.ca I think with all their items you can either start with a pre-designed template or just choose "blank template" and start customizing.
  11. I've been reading up on diatomaceous earth. It seems that it can be applied externally to treat fleas and ticks, and also fed (food grade only, or it's poisonous!) to keep worm-free. I've had to treat for tapeworms several times in the last year, my dogs kept getting them from eating mice in the chicken coop. Drontal gets so expensive I decided to try the DE and have had my dogs on it for the last few weeks. Haven't had any fleas or ticks so I haven't used it for that purpose yet. Here's a link with some good info about DE: Diatomaceous Earth
  12. You know this is probably going to sound stupid but I can't remember what I paid last year. It used to be a minimum charge of $4/turkey for 16 pounds & under and $0.25/lb above that, double per pound for birds over 30lb but I think it went up last year. I think it might have been a $5 minimum now, $0.30/lb and $1/lb over 30 lbs (they're trying to discourage the really big birds). Chickens I don't remember at all but they are a set price per bird, not by the pound. I don't sell any chickens I just raise a few for our own freezer so I don't necessarily keep track of the costs all that well. With turkeys I get about 10, keep 3 for our own holiday dinners and sell the others. I just called last night to check the cost for ducks and they said $6.50/duck. I figured that with my ducks laying so many eggs I'd incubate them and hatch out some ducklings to raise for my dogs. I've got them on starter feed right now but the plan is to mostly let them free range so that I don't have a lot of money invested in feeding them. From what I hear duck is not inexpensive to buy so if I market them I may be able to get enough back to pay for the processing the whole lot and it will work out to be inexpensive meat in the freezer. I just need to find out what would be a fair price to ask for free-range duck.
  13. Can anyone give me an idea of what price per pound duck sells for? I'm raising some to put in the freezer for my dogs but I'd like to sell some also to recoup at least some of the processing fee. Either that or do the deed myself and keep them all but I'm not sure I really want to get into that. Used to do our own chickens and turkeys but we've been taking them to the processor for years now.
  14. If you're going to run two, why not get them proper pulling harnesses (either x-back or the "shorty" skijor harness), teach them to line out in front and join them with a neckline (so they run close beside each other)? Lots of skijorers and sledders bikejor or scooter with their dogs in the spring and fall. I haven't ridden a bike in so long I'm not nervey enough to hook my dogs up to one, but I do have a 3-wheeled training rig I use that's made from BMX bike frames and I run up to 4 dogs on that. For bikejoring you can hook up your line to the front of the bike below the handlebar and a bungee section will reduce any jerking on both yourself and your dog(s). You can find lots of info about biking and scootering with dogs in the dryland forums at Sled Dog Central forum or at Skidogs.ca Here are 3 of my guys on a training run a couple of years ago. I don't think I have any more recent pictures of them dryland training
  15. I feed eggs too, whole raw eggs in the shell. The dogs just don't really need too much "extra" stuff right now when they're not really working. It's the winter time when they're training and racing when I like to add the extra protein and fat from meat. That's why I was thinking ducks in the freezer might be a good thing. I wonder if eggs could be stored in the freezer? When I get frozen cracked eggs in the winter I feed them to the dogs, but I've never tried purposely freezing eggs and storing them that way. My coop doesn't have electricity so without light and heat I get very few eggs from the chickens in the winter, and the ducks stop laying. I wonder if I could put some eggs away in the freezer for the dogs for when my supply is low.
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