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Everything posted by KelliePup

  1. Kayzie got her first title! She's now URO1 Quantum's Crazy Kamma Kayzie. She got her first two legs at Premier and the last one at the end of July. That weekend in July was busy, not only did she get her title, she also got 2 legs toward her URO2 and a 1st place and 4th place. The 4th place was with abnormal ring conditions. Someone crated their dog not 3 ft from the edge of the ring, and he went bonkers when KZ and I came close. KZ was good though, she did what I taught her to do and moved behind me to let me take care of the problem, so we got dinged pretty heavily there, but she still did everything. I'm so proud of my baby!
  2. More on the story/travesty edit: link didn't go 1st time.
  3. Definitely smarter than several people I know
  4. The click is what you make it, it does not have to signify the end of a behavior. I use the click as a marker meaning "that's exactly what I want I want you to do, keep doing it until I release you!" I have achieved this by first loading the clicker, teaching simple commands, and then, when I know the dog understands the click, I incorporate stay. So, my stay command is this: "Sit" dog sits, no immediate reward because this behavior has been proofed "Stay" count to 3-5 seconds, no distance or distractions *Click* marks the dog frozen in position, if the dog gets up "uh-uh" and repeat sit-stay to click; count another two "All Done!" dog gets up and comes to me because of the click *Treat* one or more depending Repeat I know full well that this method is contradictory to every other method I have heard about when using a clicker, but the pay off has been amazing! I found that the dogs learn the stay faster and progress quicker to longer stays, further distances, and distractions. Further, it eliminates the dog breaking the stay when s/he hears another clicker go off, advances the dog's self control, and IMO creates a more reliable stay. Remember, the click is meant to be used as a secondary reinforcer. It precedes the primary (ie food) and lets the dog know s/he is on the right track. It is not supposed to be a release, that's why we have release words. ETA: If I'm next to the dog when I give the release, the god will typically just stand to be treated. I use stay to be position dependent and wait to mean I don't care what position you're in or go to.
  5. I got lucky that I had the low cost option through our local HS and my regular was part of the program. That being said, because of Kellie's anesthetic allergies, I would have had my regular vet do the spay anyway because she was familiar with the problem and we had already discussed what option we would take. I just lucked out.
  6. As I understand it, starting him on sheep when he's already not listening whilst in herding mode will only make the problem worse. You need to have him working off lead reliably before increasing to that sort of stimulus. Others here can correct me if I'm wrong? A CU course would be a very good idea. To me, it sounds like he's getting too excited when Rush is playing and is reverting to instinct/default behavior. What you need to do is create an alternative default and put the herding in check/on command. For example, KZ has a fixation with cars. This is just dangerous and I needed to nip it quickly. We started with a solid "leave it," and then we went outside and off the road about 50 feet. From there, I watched KZ and the moment she perked up when she heard a car, I told her to leave it. If her ear even flicked in my direction, I started rifling treats down her throat until the car passed. I should mention I had her on a leash during all of this. If she ignored me, uh-oh, game over and no more outside for a few minutes. The default I wanted was for her to come to me when she heard a car, she modified it to sitting either next to me or behind me. Gradually, we moved closer to the street. I would do something similar with your Maverick (that's my boy's name too!). Have someone play with Rush at a distance and perhaps even behind a barrier. You want it at a point where Maverick won't forget forget himself totally and react. Reinforce him for being calm with a game or treats or a mixture of both. A CU course should help you with this and fine-tune the training to fit your needs. I hope that helps, and I'm sure others will have more ideas for you.
  7. Yeah.... I feel your pain. We have a new trainer I have to work with who's a big Milan fan. I've been working as a trainer for over 5 years now and have been bitten once (the owner popped the prong when his dog growled at me as he was told to do by another trainer in my area...cuz everyone knows you have to "teach" the dog that's unacceptable ). This new trainer has been teaching for 8 months now and has been bitten at least once a month while rolling a dog. Her own dog is neurotic, aggressive toward certain other dogs, and has severe SA. She has to bark the commands to get her 1 1/2 year old lab to listen. KZ is 9 months. I can whisper a command from across the room and she's eager to do it, get released, and go on to the next fun thing I ask of her. I've got my pup where she's performing off lead with reliability and we're increasing precision. KZ will listen to all of our associates except this new trainer. I'm pretty sure it has a lot to do with the her training methods, not being able to read canine body language, and not understanding the canine psyche. Go figure. However, I finally got my mom, former die hard Milan fan, to try things my way All the dogs are listening to her much better. Baby steps...
  8. Double Ditto on everything. I have also been through this type of behavior with a dog. In addition to the previously mentioned books, I also recommend Feisty Fido by Dr. Patricia McConnell. While it deals mostly with leash aggressive dogs, it has some great advice to maintain control of the situation (in fact, I've taught the techniques to all my dogs and it has helped create a greater level of trust). Another great book it Pat Miller's The Power of Positive Dog Training.
  9. All comments have been deleted. I commented again suggesting he remove the vid and replace it with one of him being productive with his dog. I also gave it a rating of "poor."
  10. Hmmm.... guess he doesn't like being the only who thinks it's funny. He's deleted over half the comments.
  11. Click "Flag" Go to "Violent or Repulsive Content" (second on the list) There will be a menu that pops up next to it that has "animal abuse" as the second to last reason. Click it and then click the "Flag this Video" button
  12. Here's my reply based off his last message: The road to solving the bigger issues starts with the individual. That individual must have integrity and respect for other living things in order to be productive to change the world. It saddens me that you, hamy007, cannot see that, and can demonstrate in a mere 10 seconds the depths of your ignorance. I'll flag it as well.
  13. At the UKC Premier last year we were told our dogs could not wear a choke, it had to be a flat buckle collar. Sometimes for beginning dogs, the trainer will start with just the choke or prong. This can, and has, tell the dog that you only have to listen when you are wearing the choke at the beginning levels. The choke has a different feel and a different weight. Since Mav was never really taught with the choke, I never use it at home, it makes him nervous and he does not perform as well. Our only experience with AKC obed, because Mav is a mix and until this year the AKC wouldn't allow mixes, is with our local 4H and they require the dog to wear a choke at all levels of competition.
  14. Any type of training takes diligence, commitment, perseverance, consistency and good timing. Personally, I prefer to train positive. I like the fact that KZ is now 8 months and I can whisper a command or move my body slightly and she enthusiastically does what I wanted her to do. I like that we can do beginning off lead heel through a room with treats and toys scattered on the floor around people and other dogs, and I can trust that she's going to leave all of it and keep her attention on me. Most of all, I like the way training positive makes me feel. I, personally, have not received that same level of willingness with dogs I've trained using traditional methods, but I know there are others who have. IMO, it comes down to the competency, experience, and method proficiency of the trainer. Great trainers exist on both sides of this divide. I hold to the belief that a well trained dog should not need a choke, prong, or shock collar, and it's all the better for me if I can train without it. In fact, the UKC does not even allow choke/slip or limited slip collars in the ring. I had trained Maverick without a choke initially and then introduced him to one so we could break into competitive obed. Imagine my surprise when I was told I had to remove it to enter the ring! So I don't agree that the UKC is great way to break in to the world of competitive obed. In fact, it can be much more difficult if you trained traditionally. Mav and I scored high and beat out our local AKC Kennel Club--most of the AKC club dogs didn't even Q that weekend and I suppose it's because the dogs didn't know how to behave without the choke. That being said, we don't do nearly as well in AKC events. It's a different venue with a different mentality, and Mav hates the choke.
  15. You are NUTS Kristine! LOL!!! But that does sound like a lot of fun. Are you going to tape it? What level and events do you compete in? KZ's at very basic heelwork to music, but we can do it off lead. So, nothing really fancy just yet, I'm just stoked she focuses on me and not everyone else at this point. I've only ever done it for fun, so no competing just yet. Mainly I use freestyle and agility as a way to show people the fun they can have with dogs and to entertain. Of course, the extra business my obedience classes get after a show is nice too. Good luck with your competition! You'll have to let us know how it goes
  16. Crazy! I suppose my only beef is that I can go to the pound and pick up any of the listed "breeds" (and several that aren't) for under $200, but these breeders are selling these dogs for $500+ So...what about Maverick? He's Boxer X Border Collie and not registerable! I got screwed by my rescue!!!!! And here we've been calling him a "Boxlie" but there's no such breed
  17. Wow. Personally, no pups from them. Ummmm..... Humans are animals, does that mean they should be bred each cycle? If so, please shoot me now. Just a thought.
  18. OMGsh!! Congrats! They are so cute, I can't wait to see then grow up! ETA: I really like that little B&W split faced male 4th one on the top row. His markings just appeal to me.
  19. Kellie May 12, 2004 - August 18, 2009 My heart. My Soul. My Protector. My All. You were taken from me far too early and taught me so much in the short time we were together. You saved me physically and mentally. I can still feel you gently crawling onto the bed and pressing against my side, trying all the while to not touch my knee after the accident. The only regret I have is that we didn'e have the 10 more years I was hoping for to live and play and work. Rest easy Kellie Pup, you are loved. Sorry for all the extra pictures...I couldn't pick just one and the wound is still very fresh. I miss by baby...........
  20. I'll do the best I can. My camcorder's on the fritz, but I'll see what I can do.
  21. Go with your gut in most cases. If you wouldn't allow the person to dog sit your dogs, then don't adopt out to that person. For Raven, I would check that they had a dog before and know something about border collies. Ask for a vet reference and check up on it (mine wrote an awesome letter for me when I went to get KZ. It went beyond the usual "all her animals are UTD on shots" and into my training and qualifications). Ask if they have ever had to relinquish or euthanize a pet and why. I ask how they train because there are some methods I see as abuse and I will not knowingly put any dog I adopt out through it. Ask where Raven will be housed if it's important to you. I ask anyway. And visit the home. Make sure you ask for an adoption fee, this will help weed out those people looking for a cheap dog for the kids to play with until they get bored. Often times, I will tell the owner the worse habits/issues the dog has and gage the reaction. The one's I feel comfortable with are those that can give me a workable solution to the problem that helps the dog. Most of the time the rest just never call back after the initial meeting. It has worked for me so far. I only have had one dog returned and it was because of outside influences on the family that prevented them from paying her medical bills anymore. I know she's driving you nuts, but don't settle for anyone who will take her, that never works well. She deserves a good home so hold out until you find one you like (and perhaps even a bit envious of ) Good luck!
  22. First off, I love the freestyle sport. I had been working on a routine with Kellie to "Eye of the Tiger" before I lost her, and that was by far the most difficult one to choreograph. Maverick has danced with me to David Bowie's "Magic Dance" and Rascal Flatt's "Stand" and both of those were fairly easy. Anyway, I wanted to do something special for our local Boy Scout pack meeting and Christmas party. In between classes, work, and puppy play, I worked out a nice little routine to Alvin and the Chipmunks singing "Santa Claus is Comin' to Town" with Kayzie in mind. We stared practicing the routine in October. After a brief scare where she got sick for almost two weeks from drinking paint (apparently red is best flavor ), we got back to practicing 4 days before the show. I was a bit worried she wasn't going to perform like she should, I mean we had a little less than 8 weeks to practice the dance. The day of the dance (the 15th) I had to cut out some of the more difficult tricks when KZ looked at me like I was on drugs for wanting her to go around me in a circle and spin at three points. But we finally got on stage, it was her first time being in the school, and you would've thought she was born knowing the routine. Not an ounce of stage fright in that little pup. We were the lead in for Santa and Mrs. Claus, who are usually the highlights of the party (we are talking about kids after all). KZ completely stole the show. The kids didn't even notice Santa's arrival until the third time it was announced even with Santa on the other side of the stage. Normally Santa gets a crowd after the presents have all been passed out and the kids are heartbroken to see him go. This year, the boys met Santa, got their pinewood derby cars, and gravitated to KZ where they had a blast getting her to do some of the same tricks they saw her do on stage and I showed them a few others. Even the adults came over to KZ. I feel kinda bad that we showed up Santa (especially since Mrs. Claus was with him this year), but d@mn I am proud of my little girl. I think her debute was a huge success. We'll have to figure out something for next year to fade KZ off in the backgroud so the spotlight can be on Santa and then maybe bring her back out after Santa leaves.
  23. 2.) Difficult to give advice on this without seeing the actual behavior. I usually give a time out to all the dogs for a couple of minutes if I feel play is getting too rough. 3.) Another vote for as soon as possible. Just be careful of beginning obedience classes calling themselves a puppy class. A true Puppy class should promote socializing with other puppies and exposing them to new experiences. There are plenty of qualified CPDTs in and around CT. I would recommend their classes because they have had extensive training and their puppy courses are actual puppy courses. If you go to the APDT website, you can search for trainers in your area. Make sure the trainer is CPDT or higher...I know of a trainer in CT that I would not take my dogs to because I don't agree with the methods. This trainer is a member of the APDT, but is not CPDT certified, so be careful. Above all, make sure you like the trainer and trust him/her.
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