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Everything posted by KelliePup

  1. Poor baby If I'm not mistaken, the one bc "rescue" to avoid in TN is no longer in operation. If it's the one I'm thinking of, it was shut down last year and exposed for being a bc puppy mill. You also try posting him on some bc rescue forums: BC Rescue Boards and the BC Rescue Rapidboards
  2. Nicely put, Danielle! My SAR mentor once said she preferred "dogs with a brain and a little caution for personal safety" than dogs that just rush in... That's why, in her words, she had a GSD and not a lab
  3. That's interesting. I had never heard of that before. Perhaps they're doing a study? I'd be curious.
  4. I've seen first hand a "border collie" with absolutely no talent on stock win "best of breed" in a conformation... To me, that isn't a border collie, just a seemingly well built, pretty marked dog. How does that sit well for the breed? I also had a conformation person tell me that KZ wouldn't be able to herd because "she has bad flanks," meaning her back end was "too narrow" and she wouldn't be able to turn quickly on stock. Y'all have no idea how hard I laughed at that since KZ's been working stock all summer and can turn faster than any other dog, bcs included, that trains there. So tell me, why should KZ be shunned when she's perfectly healthy, passes all current health tests, works stock with a good eye (even if her confidence does need work), and has a remarkable temperament with other animals and people (including children)? Not that I would show her in the conformation ring anyway, I'm just saying what we think the dog should look like in order to do the job doesn't match up to the reality. Just look at the English Bulldog and tell me where that's gotten us, a breed that can't do the original job and needs help to procreate or the breed would die. Or perhaps the pug with breathing and skin issues. Or the American GSD with a rump that slopes so much that it caused problems when running. When we breed for looks, we lose the essence of the breed and can actually cause the severe health issues we were trying to avoid, or whole new ones instead. I'm done now. There's my rant for the day.
  5. To make it more durable, I've done the same thing Waffles does with plastic bottles, but used large PVC pipe instead and capped the ends.
  6. I want to offer my condolences to Jo for having to Jo for having to make this call. Having to make that call once before, I know it isn't easy. My heart goes out to you and Boots.
  7. One suggestion about setting goals: It's great to have the end result in mind, just make sure you understand every step/milestone in the process. All to often, I find people in general get so fixated on the end result that they completely miss the steps along the way. For example, if I have a new dog that I want to teach how to roll over, I first need the lie down. Break it down. This might seem simplistic advice, but, like I said, I find it is the one thing people often forget.
  8. I'll give it try. I think I know just where to find the right stock. Thanks!
  9. Putting pressure on a fearful or under-socialized dog has never worked for me, at least not in the way you're talking about. I might make them deal with the pressure that's already there by not letting them back off and rewarding them by going away when they're calm, but I personally have found that adding more can make the problem worse or turn it into a game chase, then you're really in trouble. That's what my llama analogy was trying to illustrate, changing a mindset through progression of stages. I'd leave off the recall until the dog is more comfortable being around me. That's just IMHO and experience, but hey, if it works for you.
  10. Sorry, didn't mean to ignore. I've been working on putting together a donation collection for the victims of the Texas wildfires, so it's been a little crazy and I didn't get to shoot a vid. Mine and Yours incorporates several leave it commands. My personal favorite would be the one similar to Control Unleashed, and might be the easiest for you since you've already started clicker training. It's really simple to get started. Big difference, you're not allowed to give commands, make noise, prompt the puppy, or help the dog in any way. It has to be completely her choice. Place a treat on the ground under your foot. Wait until the puppy stops trying to get at it and looks up at you. Click and turn your puppy away from the treat under your foot to reward. Once she's doing that well, start taking your foot off the treat. You have to be quick to cover it again if she tries to go for it. Once she's leaving it on the floor, start dropping the treat from a short distance, and then progress to higher distances, and then add movement. Additionally, with possessive dogs, I like to add in a bit of boundary training. I found it easiest to start off using a hula hoop to clearly mark the boundary I want. Put the treat or toy in the center and then body block your puppy if she goes inside the hoop to get it. Mark and reward her for turning or walking away from it. I do the same thing with food bowls at meal times. Not one of my dogs is allowed to go to his or her dish until I say so. Some call me a "dog nazi" but hey, I have well-behaved dogs that listen and get invited back to parties where other dogs aren't allowed, so there. That should get you started. I have to go make some more flyers now and set up collection boxes.
  11. I love "MINE!" That's a great book. I'll see about either writing up some instructions and/or making a vid today and get it up asap.
  12. Yeah, we might have to wait a bit for another vid. KZ went into season and was not her normal self for tonight's lesson. It was dive in or shut down. Not like her at all... I'll review the footage I have, but it really wasn't pretty.
  13. Dear Dogs: The things in the litter boxes are not cookies, and if you think I'm going to let you come cuddle after this, you are very much mistaken.

  14. There isn't! Just ask Mav and KZ, who are both taking short little cat naps
  15. I would love to see this. I'll check links on youtube, does anyone have or know of any good vids?
  16. I agree with Jovi. Furniture off limits and involve the kids in the training. The other thing I taught Kayzie, and mind you this is the first time I've done this so all I have are the results from one dog, is to down when kids approach. She can stand up later, but the initial down, for her, acknowledges that she knows there is a kid nearby and she needs to behave. It also puts her in a position of submission right off the bat. The results have been fantastic, she is by far the best dog with kids that I've seen, she's even surpasses Roxie who's a natural babysitter. I also recommend really working on impulse control. "Mine and Yours" is a great one, and I teach it so that the dogs know the only thing that's "theirs" is what I personally give them. If they drop it, too bad, it's mine again. The exceptions are things/toys in their crate and when I tell them to "get" something, which basically means go get it and bring it to me, so fetch. Since your puppy has already done this little snapping thing, I would restrict access/interaction between the kids and the dog to supervised only until your pup learns her manners. Your pup's about to break into adolescence, so there will be more displays unless you initiate a puppy lock-down procedure and institute NILIF immediately. Hope that helps. If you need directions on how to play "Mine and Yours," just ask Good luck!
  17. I don't need another dog... I don't need another dog... I can't afford to keep another dog.... I have to keep repeating that to myself. He looks so incredible sweet!
  18. Thanks! I wondered about that myself. I think we would've had the opportunity for a do-over if KZ hadn't done as well as she did. The judge was sympathetic and even told me some of her trialing horror stories. It did annoy me though that that dog took 2nd. Crating space wasn't that limited. I got the feeling that it was the owner's home club and the dog had been crated there before. Just an example of not thinking I guess. I'm still pleased with KZ's reaction. It could've been worse, and I can't fault her for doing what I taught her to do.
  19. Clicker training is one of my favorite methods. At the same time, it might not be suitable for all dogs, at least in the context of using treats as a reward, it all depends on the dog's value system. For very attached/affectionate dogs, the click can mean "good job! come get some love." I have one like that. She's very, very soft, most likely abused at some point in her past also. She's coming out of it now and has gained a lot of confidence. I started her on small, simple mental stimulation games, confidence building exercises, and I always reward the behaviors I want and ignore and walk away from her when she displays behaviors I didn't like. It's very hard to turn your back on a dog that tugs at your heartstrings, but sometimes you have to look at the bigger picture and where you want her to be in the long run. The opposite can be done with dogs that are unsure of people. Llamas are clicker trained to accept people by a someone walking just into the threshold where the llama feels uncomfortable, but isn't bolting. The person stays there for a moment, clicks, and then beats a fast retreat. Over time and repetitions, the threshold becomes closer and closer to the llama until you're standing right next to them. You can do the same thing with an under-socialized, frightened dog. Click = fast retreat from whatever is scaring you. The retreat becomes the reward. Basically, you have to figure out what your dog values in order for the clicker training to be successful. If you're not comfortable with the clicker, you can always use your voice as the reward marker; however, because of varying pitches and the fact that dogs hear our voices all the time, it's not as effective as using something else (ie the clicker) to mark the behavior. I hope that helps. Good luck to you and Sparrow!
  20. Thanks Glenn That confirms what I was thinking, and gives me more confidence in my reading!
  21. Oh, I am very pleased. Her first time I was thrilled that she got the idea to get off the sheep a bit. Her down wasn't a complete fluke, it's really good, but in this case I think it was partly due to the ewe landing on her right back leg. Minor injury she has recovered completely from. In many ways, she's shows a lot of self control (that and down were two of the first things she learned). I think she'll get better and more confident with more exposure, right now she still speeds up and overreacts when she lifts the sheep. It's hit or miss, she's had some great lifts and some not so great, but I think she is improving. I'll have to see if I can get a vid for today's lesson so y'all can see her progress and what I mean...
  22. So, I put this video together to shown my non-herding students why they should be proactive in their training. In doing that, I think I gained a little more insight into the body language and interaction of both KZ and the sheep. This was her 1st time actually working. She's about 8 months old to a year old. Fair warning, she was injured, though not badly, and it does show what I mean when I said she goes nuts when the sheep move. I was not handling her this time, and this was the instructor's first time ever meeting KZ let alone working her. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_UBIFa3YAEU
  23. So, Kayzie has two speeds when she's working, down and hurricane. For the most part, I think we've got her to check her speed, but as soon as the sheep move, she becomes hurricane KZ again. She likes it when the sheep aren't moving, she speeds up when they do so she can get them to stop (flanking, right? Sorry, still learning terms). Right now, I've been holding her back and waiting for her to calm down and go slower before we continue. IS there anything else I should be doing to help her get it? At this moment, it's hit or miss on how she's going to react. Thanks in advance for the suggestions!
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