Jump to content
BC Boards

KelliePup

Registered Users
  • Content Count

    420
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by KelliePup

  1. And this from a 4H friend of mine who is now training big cats, this is from when she was just starting: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9xDlAGNYT0 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cs3x-wwe5Eg&feature=related
  2. Just because I was so upset from The Thread That Shall Not Be Named, I would like to see some freestyle videos of y'all and your dogs. Unfortunately, none of my live routines were ever videoed I do a lot of performances for local volunteer organizations and the Boy Scouts, and that's enough for me right now, but I'd love to see everyone else's Here's the Attila and Fly vids: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qi4qvMmWJWs&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crmD_B8ERzk
  3. First, make sure there isn't a medical problem, like thyroid. Second, it's not unusual for a dog to redirect its frustration and bully a "weaker" dog. Happens with humans too, just think of a high school, which people are routinely bullied? The ones that appear weaker and don't fight back. Targeting smooth coats and short hairs is a learned behavior most likely. At six, it's going to be more difficult, but you have to teach her a better way to express her frustration. Usually, I recommend a mix of BAT/CAT and CU techniques in situations like yours (mind you this is without seeing, so *shrug*), Look at that game, circular walking, etc. Chances are, it'll never be "fixed," but it can be managed to a certain extent.
  4. Thank you Julie, exactly what I was going to say. Way to "build bridges" Serena. It's a good thing tracking doesn't involve any brains, otherwise all those SAR dogs would be useless (extreme sarcasm if you can't tell). You want to see masterful timing? Try Attlia and Fly, arguably one of the best teams this world has ever seen. So it's not ballet, but the skill it takes to get to this level can still be appreciated. I dare you, Serena, to even attempt something like this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crmD_B8ERzk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qi4qvMmWJWs&feature=related I need to leave this thread now before I get really nasty.
  5. That's too funny. I hide the dog's Christmas presents with the grooming tools because they never check there... until this year. Now they all gather around when I reach for the drawer.
  6. I did a lot of obedience work with Kayzie in high distraction environments before putting her on stock. We also worked A LOT on self control, more so than I have ever done with a dog. IME, which is limited to Kayzie and Kellie, Kayzie listens better and seems to be progressing quicker with the amount of training I did before putting her stock than Kellie did. Kellie's obedience skills prior to being put on stock were very limited. Kayzie's first try, she was very excited and had some trouble stopping at first, but she caught on quickly and is much more controllable. I've also noticed that gradually our lessons have been getting longer and longer as we get better and better. Granted, we're nowhere near ready for trail or ranch work, but I'm happy with her progress.
  7. Thank you, Kristine. Nice runs Okay, the UKC. First, in order to understand the obstacles used, you have to remember that the UKC is very much a performance registry. They routinely have Terrier Races and Hunt trials among other things, and, as far as I know, for the longest time they were the only all breed registry that allowed you to register and compete fixed mixed breeds alongside purebreds in everything except conformation. That, and the fact that the UKC is based in Kalamazoo literally 5 minutes from where I live so there are a lot of shows I could attend, appealed to me. I got started several years ago with Maverick in obedience and rally, but the problem with his back legs prevented us from entering any agility trials. My only prior experience with trialing had been going to AKC shows. At those shows, I was not impressed. Any questions I had were met with a certain air of contempt...if the person took the time to talk to me at all. Not a warm and welcoming reception, and it left me very, very nervous about even trying to trial. My first UKC show was local, I knew Maverick was ready, so I entered him and went expecting something similar to what I had experienced at the AKC. Not at all. Night and day difference. Never once did anyone I met put Maverick down because he's a rescued mix and they were very supportive and tolerant of my questions. The basic philosophy is "everyone was new once." I've a few nasty people in the UKC, but they seem to be few and far between. I am by no means an expert in UKC agility. I've run AKC-style in 4H, teach the basics to prevent injury, and have built my own equipment. My business partner knows a lot more than I do, so she's the one that runs the classes while I play backup and assistant. The highest attainable title in UKC Agility is UGRACH. Like the MACH, a dog ca achieve it several times, so you can have a UGRACH5 or higher. They have all the standard equipment (bar jumps, Aframe, dog walk, teeter, tunnels, chutes, tire jump, pause box/table, weave poles) plus a lot more. Running a UKC course requires the dog to really trust their handler. There are several types of blind hurdles where the dog can't see what's beyond the jump, sway bridges and swing planks, crawl tunnel, a hoop tunnel, platform jump, and so many different kinds of hurdles that I won't even attempt to describe them all. You can fault. I'm still learning the rules about those, so I'm not going to go into it. It's all in the rulebook. The times have been very reasonable in the shows I've been to, and you have to come in under time to Q. Here's the link to the 2011 Agility Rulebook. I don't have any videos of my own, but I found some with nice runs: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaPNVOfA85g http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IP5e1vZO6k8
  8. Umm... Kristine, I can't see the video. It says it's private. Give me a few and I'll put something in here for the UKC venue.
  9. KelliePup

    Laska

    My deepest condolences for your loss.
  10. No vet that I know would perform a surgery on a puppy that small. That's where size and weight comes in. I did not say, "a sheepherder should spay at this young of an age if an agility person who wants a young pup from their lines." What I said is that the only way to be absolutely certain a dog was not used for breeding was to spay/neuter it before it goes to its new home. I said that a bit tongue in cheek from a rescuer's mentality because I know the logistics of it are really not possible, but the sentiment, that being 100% certain the dog is not bred, holds true because, while a contract could be broken with really no legal ramifications, the surgery is irreversible. The next best suggestion I have read on this thread is a co-ownership arrangement until the surgery takes place when the dog is older.
  11. I think perhaps we are using different definitions. I am using both sentience and the soul as interconnecting elements in the definition of a person. Sentience in the terms of using the conscious mind, ie reasoning, to determine courses of action rather than acting on instinct. The soul, among other definitions, is defined as a person's moral nature. The law is very much into the definition of a person, as is evidenced with the US shady history regarding women and ethnic groups (especially these, Native and African Americans were not thought to possess a soul, therefore they were not human) other than Caucasian. That's a good point. I had forgotten about ambiguous genitals. They did a special about it on tv a while ago, but I'm afraid I don't remember much except that the adult children were irate when they found out what had happened. It does pose an interesting case though about whether the actual genitalia is needed for the body to release testosterone and estrogen in sufficient quantities for gender identity as the child grows. There was another case some years ago about a mother castrating her son to get back at her husband. I just can't remember where I read it... It's not common, but it does occur from time to time. I suspect animal cruelty charges could be leveled at such a person. The judge or the jury would have to decide. Yeah... I don't know what to make of the story behind that thread. I don't know why anyone would do it that way when there are other, safer methods to use?
  12. I would postulate that it isn't all about consent (btw, you have to be conscious of the self to give consent), especially in criminal cases, as animals are considered property and, aside from euthanasia to dangerous animals, are not responsible, by law, for their actions. The owner, as the sentient one in the relationship, is. The underlying question, especially in juvenile cases and mental illness defenses, is "did the defendant know right from wrong?" That implies adhering to a moral code, dubbed by some as a soul. Very interesting otherwise, but not what I was referencing. Try this (warning: disturbing). ETA: The mother was found guilty. There are four parts to operant conditioning. My personal feelings are to use all four in conjunction with the human's and the dog's personalities and learning styles for maximum efficiency in training. Basically, there needs to be a balance. I have found, IME, that knowing several different methods is helpful because dogs respond differently from one another. Of course, I still have my default method that I start with...
  13. And that is your personal preference, but I recommend you research why, scientifically, you feel that way instead of anthropomorphizing dogs in your reasoning. There have been cases of parents castrating their children. It makes the news every time it happens, and these parents go to court and pay for their crimes. In humans, it is considered a crime because it is believed that humans are sentient and have a soul whereas animals do not. It is also customary certain religions to circumcise male infants. This practice has been found to be less traumatic on infants than on grown men, and has many health benefits, including the decrease in infections. By this definition, toy breeds, teacup breeds, then and cats should never be spayed or neutered. Not to mention small animals such as ferrets, whose adult weights vary from approximately 2 to 5 pounds. Consider this: the adult size and weight of toy breed is roughly the same as a mid to large sized dog 2 to 3 months of age. (The rescues and vets I know will not spay/neuter younger than 8 weeks) It is also a medical fact that younger creatures heal quicker than older ones with fewer complications. What is in dispute, however, is whether the growth and pubescent hormones are diminished during the alteration and/or play an important part in the dog’s physical and mental development. Overall size at the time of the surgery really doesn’t enter into the equation. Age, however, is an important factor since the younger dog is more likely to bounce back than an older dog. My personal opinion in the matter is that the hormones to play an important part during development. I base this on research I have done and my own observations. Therefore, I am in favor of later spays and neuters. My preference may be swayed if new scientific evidence revealing otherwise comes to light. Researching these topics is important because there is almost always a delicate balance of evidence that must be weighed. There are medical studies to suggest that dogs are at higher risk of cancer the longer they remain intact. Other studies show increased behavioral issues in intact dogs. Reports such as these, and others, must be weighed against pet overpopulation, statistical mortality rates, reported growth abnormalities, and even reports of decreased drive. These are the issues that matter, not anthropomorphizing dogs into human children. The trauma that damages growth plates is what makes it so difficult to get conclusive evidence on whether early spay/neuter causes growth abnormalities. Because of what I want my dogs to do, I prefer to err on the side of caution and keep my dogs intact until that benefit, IMO, balances the risks. Accidental matings is another risk that rescues must take into account. As soon as an intact male dog can produce sperm, he is capable of siring pups, and this can happen before the age of six months. Six months is a guideline, an average, not a rule. By the same token, a bitch can become impregnated during her first heat, which, again, can happen before six months. John and Jane Q. Public are not going to know this, especially since puppies in general are still very much an impulse buy. Since rescues are in the non-profit business of placing dogs and puppies from accidental breedings, they are going to do their best to prevent future accidental breedings. This means exploring, and often acting on, the option of early spays and neuters before the puppy goes to its new home. It's fine if you don't agree with it, no judgement here, but I, personally, like to see the reasoning based on logical and scientific facts, not suppositions, assumptions, or gut feelings. I even tell my nieces and nephews that if they want me to even consider their conclusions then they must present me with a logical argument based on fact. That means they have to research both sides, all aspects of the available data, and present both pros and cons. If nothing else, it gets them to question things a lot more, research all the data, and come up with their own opinions. The only exception to the above is a matter of religion. That one rests solely on faith in my family. Quick disclaimer: I am not an expert in canine medical problems. I did not go to school for it and I do not assist in the actual research. What I have done is self study of the published findings, balanced the perceived risks and benefits, and analyzed my own tendencies and failings as a dog owner to arrive at the youngest age that I am comfortable with when spaying or neutering my own dogs. If I get a puppy from a rescue, I either have to adhere to their regulations, or, in a few cases because they know me, compromise on an age that is agreeable to us both.
  14. If we follow the "when to use an adversive" tree/model, then I would have to agree. For something this serious, perhaps even an e-collar, correctly used, is in order.
  15. Actually, vets are still debating on whether it is safe or not and have evidence to support both sides, so even the vets don't agree on this. Therefore, it has nothing to do with safety and everything to do with personal belief/preference. The rescues in my area will and do spay/neuter surgeries as young as 8 weeks. The only requirements are healthy and of sufficient weight. So the question is about growth and hormones and their role in the growing process, that is what is still being debated with no clear answer when last I looked. One might even argue that 6 months isn't safe and to wait a year. Or two years so the growth plates settle.* It's like a balancing act between unproven health risks and accidental/unethical breeding risks and there isn't enough concrete evidence in either direction to make a scientifically informed decision. What good is a list going to be? The damage is still done. Look how many times Swafford was shut down only to start up again in another state. Everyone knows, but it is profitable, so the problem persists. To that type of person, even a spay/neuter deposit isn't going to work because of potential gains. Not to mention that registry organizations don't really care how the puppy came to be as long as the parents were registered. That alone brings these puppies, who might be the sorriest excuse for the breed ever seen, out of the realm of "just a dog" and into the realm of prestige. These people don't care about bettering the breed, all they see are dollar signs marking the puppies' fur. Then, there are people who might think they have that one in a million agility dog, they have the wins, and the line needs to be continued, so they "breed responsibly" in their mind, but, in actuality, end up hurting the breed as a whole, and all the while thinking they are different than the people just breeding for profit. With border collies, here's the secret, because they are not breeding for the working ability, they are every bit as bad to the breed as those puppy mills. The only way to be sure the puppy won't be bred is to have it altered before it goes to it's new home. Outside of rescues, what's the likelihood of that happening? Is it really fair then to condemn those breeding for the right reasons if one of their sales is used for a future breeding? That brings us to educating people, and even then, not every one listens. *My personal preference is to spay/neuter later because I personally believe hormones play an important role in maturation, especially concerning growth plates; however, I understand the other part of the argument.
  16. The contracts really aren't worth much if it is to a dishonorable person. We run into trouble with that in the past in rescue. The only way to ensure no breeding of those dogs is to spay/neuter before they are sold.
  17. ROTF I would love to see that!! Thing is, human motivations are often contrary to learning theory. They like autonomy... That's why I have dogs and not kids.
  18. Completely normal The "bull" behavior sounds like a scent marking behavior. Very cute and not a big deal. You can catch that and put it on cue to "wipe your feet." If I were you, I'd probably start getting a handle on the "ambush" pounce. It's cute right now, but it could be a problem down the road.
  19. Glad to hear she's home! Ummmm... If I were you, I would probably be looking for a few other opinions. The numbers for how long she'll be contagious and the proposed schedule for vaccinations are, IMHO, way off. Most puppies, around my area at least, are completely vaccinated by the time they are four months old. It can also be very psychologically damaging to a dog to not socialize her until she's 9 months old. Frankly, from a behavior standpoint, by then it's too late. I recommend you read the information I posted in your other "Socialization" thread. Hopefully, it will help you, and, seriously, check with a few other vets. Second and third opinions are the best thing I ever did for my dogs.
  20. 7 months is very extreme. I'm not sure where your vet is getting that information at all. Once a puppy recovers from parvo, that puppy can still be contagious to other dogs for 2-6 weeks. This means that the virus itself is shed in the fecal matter of the puppy and can be picked up orally (eating the fecal matter or even licking someplace that had been exposed) by another unprotected puppy. Once the recovered puppy gets a negative on the parvo test, that puppy is no longer contagious to other puppies or dogs Unless killed, the virus can remain in the soil and on other surfaces for a year. Bleach is the best way to kill the virus on surfaces, but it won't do you any good in your own yard. Best suggestion there is to not have any puppies over who have not been completely inoculated against the virus. Some very good information on parvovirus can be found on this Informational Sheet Below is the same shelter's guidelines for parvo risk and socialization. It makes a very, very good point about the balance. If you don't socialize, you will have issues for the rest of your pup's life. Before I leave you to delve into the sheet, my 5 year old, Maverick, is a parvo survivor. I cared for him at home and researched the dickens out of this virus when he came up positive. He was back out and socializing a week after he tested negative (extra week was my decision). ETA: RTF versions of the info sheet and the socialization and parvo risk guidelines are at the end of this post and, I believe, can be downloaded. Socialization and Parvovirus Risk Sheila Segurson, DVM UC Davis Shelter Medicine Program Parvovirus Parvovirus is a highly contagious virus which causes vomiting and diarrhea, and often leads to death in susceptible dogs. Parvovirus is a very durable virus, and can remain in the environment for many months (ref). Parvovirus is primarily spread to other dogs by the fecal-oral route, however it can be spread on hands, feet, clothing, tools, rodents and flies traveling from kennel to kennel. Dogs may carry the virus on their fur and feet even if they themselves do not get ill. The virus enters the dog through the nose or mouth and has an incubation period of 3 days to 2 weeks (usually 5-7 days). Because of the incubation period (up to two weeks), it is ideal to quarantine high risk dogs that enter the shelter for two weeks in order to ensure that they will not spread the virus to other at-risk puppies in the shelter. Vaccination will greatly reduce the risk of dogs becoming ill with parvovirus, however no vaccine will protect 100% of animals. In puppies, maternal antibodies interfere with the ability of the vaccine to provide a long-term effect. If the bitch was vaccinated for parvovirus in the past, she will give antibodies to her puppies, via her milk (colostrum). Maternal antibodies gradually wear off, and become ineffective in most puppies between four and sixteen weeks. In young puppies, maternal antibodies protect them against disease; however vaccinations will NOT WORK while maternal antibodies are present. The picture below was adapted from Greene's Infectious Diseases of the Dog and Cat. The picture demonstrates how maternal antibodies ('mean antibody titer') decrease over time, and how vaccinating while maternal antibodies are higher than the 'minimum titer to block vaccine' will not protect puppies. Because of this risk, we recommend vaccinating shelter puppies every two weeks until they are 18 weeks old, in an effort to make the 'window of susceptibility' as small as possible and to increase the likelihood that our vaccine protocol will protect our shelter puppies from parvovirus. Vaccinating more often that every two weeks is not effective. Once maternal antibodies are no longer a factor, the vaccine protects the puppy against parvoviral infection within 2 to 7 days; one vaccine will protect the puppy against disease in this situation. (No "booster" per se is needed with this vaccine.) This may occur at any time from the first vaccine to the last, depending on the amount of maternal antibody the puppy received. Behavior/Socialization The primary socialization period of puppies is between 3 and 13 weeks. This period is critical for development of primary social relationships with humans and other animals. Puppies that are confined during this period are significantly more likely to develop behavioral problems (primarily fear and aggression) than puppies that are provided a socialization program. Puppies isolated from conspecifics (other puppies) until 16 weeks of age, were significantly more likely to display fearful behavior and be aggressed upon by other pups. They were unable to develop a positive relationship with other dogs Puppies raised in isolation until 16 weeks lose the capacity to exhibit playful behavior toward strangers. Previous research demonstrates that socialization is a critical step in the development of behaviorally healthy dogs. Puppies with parvovirus die within a few weeks of contacting the virus; puppies with behavior problems die within a few years. Because of the temporal disconnect between acquiring the disease (behavior or parvovirus) and mortality, the need to develop comprehensive socialization programs in puppies is often underestimated. Dogs surrendered to a shelter are most likely to have been initially acquired from a shelter. This data does not reveal whether the relinquishers valued the dog less because they obtained it from a shelter, whether they returned it because of behavior problems which started before they obtained the dog (in the shelter or before entry to the shelter), or some other factor. A recent study demonstrated that puppies who attended socialization classes were more likely to be retained in their homes than those that did not. Behavioral problems are the primary cause of relinquishment of dogs to shelters. Thus, they are also the leading primary cause of mortality of dogs in animal shelters. Because the signs of behavior problems are not as blatant as parvovirus, behavior problem prevention in puppies is not a primary focus of many animal shelters. Shelters can and should develop socialization programs for puppies which maximize socialization AND protect them from infectious diseases. Recommendations: All puppies should be vaccinated for parvovirus upon intake to the shelter, and every two weeks until they are eighteen weeks (or until they are adopted into a home, at which point they can follow the vaccine schedule for a pet puppy). The majority of dogs will be protected by 18 weeks. Kennels and exercised area should be cleaned with a detergent and disinfectant that is effective against parvovirus, such as potassium peroxymonosulate (Trifectant® or Virkon-S®). If using bleach, remember that bleach is inactivated by organic matter and sunlight and, unless used properly, will be less effective than potassium peroxymonosulate. To ensure prevention of parvovirus, dogs under six months of age and dogs without a vaccination history could be placed in a quarantine area upon arrival, and not placed into the adoption area for two weeks. This is recommended for puppies from a very high risk background such as shelter transfers from a shelter that has frequent outbreaks of parvo. Because a two week quarantine period lengthens shelter stay (and increases length of potential exposure to parvovirus), is inconvenient, and may contribute to euthanasia due to behavior problems; an alternative protocol should be considered for most shelters. This could include making puppies available for adoption without a two week quarantine but keeping them in an area separate from adult dogs; cleaning and caring for puppies using separate staff or at least prior to caring for adult and sick dogs; using separate supplies for puppy cleaning and care; exercising puppies only in areas that can be routinely disinfected. Recommendations for puppy socialization: The shelter should have two exercise yards, one for puppies present in the shelter less than two weeks (quarantine), and another for puppies/dogs that have been at the shelter more than two weeks (post-quarantine).The quarantine exercise yard must be easily disinfectable.[*]Post-quarantine puppies should not spend time or visit areas for quarantine puppies.[*]Kennel staff should clean cages of post-quarantine puppies before quarantine puppies.[*]Post-quarantine puppies should be placed in socialization groups earlier in the day than quarantine puppies. Potentially infectious puppies should be handled last.[*]Shelter staff and volunteers who handle quarantine puppies/dogs must walk through a disinfectant foot bath and wash hands or spray hands and arms with trifectant before handling other dogs. This does not prevent transmission of parvovirus (pants and shirts still potentially carry disease), but may reduce the risk.[*]Exercise yards should be cleaned with disinfectant after every play group. Trifectant® or Virkon® are good choices, because they are non-irritating to tissues. A new group of puppies can enter the exercise area after allowing the disinfectant to sit for 10 minutes.[*]Ideally, puppies should play with the same group of dogs every day, so that if a parvovirus outbreak occurs, a smaller proportion of puppies will be at high risk. It is preferable to allow puppies to play with slightly older dogs (> 4 months old) rather than other puppies from diverse sources.[*]The shelter should have a 'parvovirus quarantine protocol' in place. If a puppy is diagnosed with parvovirus, play groups should be discontinued for a two week quarantine period.[*]Keep data regarding who gets parvovirus and their relationship to play groups (who they played with and whether they became infected).[*]Keep data regarding post-adoption follow-up and the development of behavior problems with vs. without the socialization program. References Carmichael, L, Joubert J, et al. A modified live canine parvovirus vaccine. II. Immune response. Cornell Vet 1983;73(1):13-29. Duxbury M, Jackson J, Line S, Anderson R. Evaluation of association between retention in the home and attendance at puppy socialization classes. J Am Vet Med Assoc 2003;223:61-66. Neidhart L, Boyd R. Companion animal adoption study. J of Appl An Wel Sci 2002. New J, Salman M, King M, et al. Characteristics of shelter-relinquished animals and their owners compared with animals and their owners in U.S. pet-owning households. J of Appl An Wel Sci 2000;3:180-201. Patronek G, Glickman LT, Beck A, et al. Risk factors for relinquishment of dogs to an animal shelter. J Am Vet Med Assoc 1996;209:572-581. Salman M, Hutchison J, Ruch-Gallie R, et al. Behaivoral reasions for relinquishment of dogs and cats to 12 shelters. J of Appl An Wel Sci 2000;3:93-106. Schroeder J, Bordt D, et al. Studies of canine distemper immunization of puppies in a canine distemper-contaminated environment. Vet Med Small Anim Clin 1967;62(8): 782-7. Scott J, Fuller J. Genetics and the Social Behavior of the Dog. Univ of Chicago Press 1965. Tuber D, Miller D, Caris K, et al. Dogs in animal shelters: problems, suggestions, and needed expertise. Psy Sci 1999;10:379-386. Socialization_and_Parvovirus_Risk_1.rtf Canine_Parvovirus_Info.rtf
  21. Maybe pointer or lab mix? She's a cutie though. Good Luck finding her a home! ETA: She's very barrel chested like my boy. There might be some boxer or another bully breed mixed in there
  22. I would probably go with the protein content then as there are probably very few additives. The diarrhea issue you're having isn't that uncommon with liver treats. Best advice is to mix up the type of treats Dexter get. Like a treat trail mix.
  23. Umm... What brand? There may be some additives that make it so. Other than that, the protein content might be too high for him to have many, thus causing intestinal .issues.
×
×
  • Create New...