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Everything posted by KelliePup

  1. It's a delicate balance in life, and I think the better question for being responsible is: what are you will to give up for your pet? If it were all about money, then only the well-to-do who have cash to spare would own a pet, but there would be a sacrifice on the amount of time spent with the pet. Sure, the pet probably has the "best" healthcare, a dog walker, a trainer, a groomer, the "best" food, and generally wants for nothing... except more time with his/her person. Now take the other extreme, a homeless person has nothing to offer a pet except to share whatever scrap of food can
  2. Actually Karissa, PetSmart just started carrying the Thundershirt in at least some stores, but you're right that most of the time they haven't done enough research into the products to know how to effectively use them. Part of the reason to go with the Thundershirt instead of just a compression jacket is that it is supposed to also help with dispersing any electrical charges which might be in the air. There is a theory that one of the reasons some dogs are so afraid of thunderstorms (and consequently the reason some seek out the bathtub or other tiled surface to 'ground' themselves) is because
  3. I would most definitely say that it is a fear response rather than a protective, or even possessive, one, and, no, you are not overreacting because it can lead to more serious problems down the road. From her point of view, she's enacting a sort of self protection toward strangers that walk by her home, and it seems to be working. She barks when she sees the stranger, and, wouldn't you know it, they go away. You and I know that the person on the street is just going about their business, but, from her perspective, she's making them leave because she barks at them. I would continue the
  4. It depends if he can control himself enough to think. There's nothing wrong though to use food and only pull out the tennis ball for an exceptionally good response.That way, he's really learning to control himself
  5. Sounds like he was never taught to settle. My advice would be to work it slowly. Catch those momentary downs and reward heavily to start. You can also try something like a "match my energy" game. Basically, you get all excited and play by running back and forth, and then you stop suddenly and become calm. As soon as he chills out, ie stops moving, give him a high value reinforcer, wait a few more seconds, and then play the game again. As the game progresses, start requiring longer periods of calm before the reward. It shouldn't take too long before he starts taking his cues from you. A
  6. Nope. That's just crazy, but then she only needs one person to sign up for it to really turn a killer profit. Have to wonder what her usual rates are... ETA: Have to admit that it's a bold, possibly brilliant marketing strategy, having refused to teach it until the method was "perfected" and then only to a maximum of 5 in an intense 3 weeks. Wonder how it'll turn out.
  7. Where does the time go? Seems like only yesterday I picked up my little parvo survivor to foster... and I was his within 1 minute of holding him. He might be a little redder with more white around the muzzle, but I'm looking forward to many more laughs, loves, and years with my goofy boy! (I'll see if I can wake him up and get some pictures later)
  8. IDK, maybe. I'd have to see if I kept her vet records from that far back.
  9. Get a good boar dog to take it down? But seriously, point taken and I'm done.
  10. I had a similar problem with Kellie having an allergic reaction to anesthetics. In the end, after a lot of back and forth with my vet, Kellie was spayed under a very light anesthetic... I wish I could remember what it was. Even with that, there was still a real danger, but her unpredictability during heat cycles was worse. She still got sick afterward, didn't want to move for a full week. At present, the advice to keep them separated stands, and I would still check into a behavior modification and focus class of some sort to gain a bit more control over her.
  11. Then you can understand my frustration at being misquoted and having things taken out of context to further an argument.
  12. RE Body language Apparently analogies, metaphors, and similes are lost on some people. I never said dogs see us as dogs, I said they interpret our movements as if we were handicapped dogs, meaning they translate our communication efforts into a language they can understand. Body language and voice tone and pitch are critical elements in dog training, and understanding and utilizing some of the ways dogs communicate can give us a richer relationship with our dogs, not as master and dog, but as pack members (through the dog's eyes) with the human as the firm but fair leader. Patricia McConne
  13. What Julie and G. Festerling said. FYI, the one minute thing. The reason behind it is that 1 minute will give the dog enough time to cool own while still recognizing he/she is in a time out because of an infraction. Longer than 1 minute, you run the risk of the dog forgetting. Sooner than 1 minute and the dog may still be aroused. It does not, however, work with bitch-to-bitch aggression, especially when one is in season. That's a breeding rights issue, and there have been cases where one bitch will kill her rival. I recommend separation and management. A few CU and BAT classes with th
  14. You missed the pack thing, Kristine, and that is a paramount point. We are family, a wild rabbit is not. A dog can see humans as prey as well, but we've been accepted into their social structure. Further, the truly awesome thing about dogs in general is that they are so docile that they will let humans, cats, sheep, and even rabbits into their social circle. I might also add that this is not my theory, nor is it my own conclusion, but has been purposed in numerous books by some of the top trainers, behaviorists, and psychologists in the world. I'll be happy to reference them for if you'd l
  15. Personally, even though my heaviest kid is only 50lbs, I like using something stronger than PVC. I also have to consider the weather extremes here and longevity since everything is primarily outdoors right now (anyone want to buy me a polebarn? ), and I've had PVC crack and break just on the tire jump. I certainly wouldn't want the base to fail while my dog was on the teeter, that would not be fun to retrain. I have plans for it somewhere around here. All I did was modify the PVC plan to wood, add a pivot to make it adjustable, four eyehooks, and two chains with latches.
  16. I think we might be quibbling over semantics here. A correction is anything which communicates to the dog "that's not what I want you to do." They can be mild such as using body language a dog understands (ie turning your back for an incorrect behavior... BTW, dogs do this to each other all the time), or they can be more severe such as hard physical contact, and there are varying degrees thereof. With this premise, I again submit that you cannot train a dog without correcting it for an improper or poorly preformed behavior. Correction and Reinforcement are two sides of the same coin and yo
  17. That really is a tough call. Problem with the whole thing is that the Evaluator is only seeing a snapshot of how well the dog behaves. The second issue comes with the fact that not all Evaluators test the same way. What the CGC is supposed to say during those tests is that the dog has been trained and the owner has the dog under control. If you follow the strictest interpretation, the evaluator is only supposed to "grade" the actual test item, not what happens before or after, excluding any aggressive act. Extra problem point is that there some evaluators who don't know an aggressive act s
  18. Kristine, have you ever tried learning a second language? What I'm talking about is the filtration process. It's a whole different ball game if you're trying to learn a new language versus having been taught it at a young age. It's that cultural filtration process that makes us, humans and dogs alike, attach meaning to signals, signs, and words. It can be overcome, but it exists and is the basis for my handicapped dog analogy. I think Julie said it best with the "human version." Whether you want to admit it or not, Kristine, you do give signals, perhaps even unconsciously, that your do
  19. You truly believe this? I would have to respectfully disagree with your conclusion that dogs are not interpreting our movements as handicapped dogs. For argument's sake, let's take it out of the "human-canine" relationship/communication realm and use another species: cats. What would you say is the biggest reason dogs and cats do not get along unless they have been raised together? Answer: their communication. As two distinctly separate species, their natural language differs dramatically. Certain feline body language and vocalizations (ie purring, direct eye contact/stare when frightened,
  20. I have to laugh at this because it's so true! Funny enough, I do use the clicker on my nieces and nephews when helping them with their homework. You have to understand that they are ADHD and their minds flight from one fancy to the next, especially late in the evening, so we use the clicker to help keep them on track. What we found was an increase in the amount of homework they were able to complete and subsequently higher grades. I would love to be able to take one of the classes that use this regularly. Biggest difference I noticed is that I could just tell them what I was going to do, I
  21. Just something as a quick side note: There are ways +R trainers use a dog's natural communication method. Let's get away from correcting a dog as another dog might and look at calming signals: not making direct eye contact, blinking, turning your body sideways, not leaning over the dog, yawning, letting the dog approach you, etc. All of these are ways to help defuse situations and prevent a bite, especially when you're working with a fear aggressor. Knowing these signals, reading the dog, and even implementing them has saved my bacon more than once. These are methods +R trainers use regula
  22. Number 1: Enroll in a puppy class, preferably where the trainer has border collies and understands them because you simply cannot train a bc the way you would a lab or a golden. BCs are far too smart and ADD for too many repetitions in a row. If you're not planning on working sheep (or even if you are) try clicker training with catching and free shaping to work her mind. No 2: Make sure you have some down time during the day. It is vital that she learns how to settle down. Sometimes, I give my pups massages during our quiet times, other times I just put them in their crates, and still othe
  23. No worries, Kristine. I can think of, and have used, dozens of other techniques for this type of reactivity. The most extreme R+/P- one being with my own dog, Kellie, and it wasn't the one I put above. The reasons behind the decision to do it was that nothing else was working in any way, shape, or form. It was painful and personal for me, but it worked because of Kellie's value system. I don't typically advertise it because it is extremely difficult on the owner and the dog, and most people don't have the constitution to reset the relationship like I had to with her. To my knowledge, no train
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