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diane allen

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Everything posted by diane allen

  1. What they all said! Plus...don't expect two dogs who come from different backgrounds to instantly get along. They say it takes three weeks for a rescue dog to "adjust" to a new home; that, obviously, varies with the dogs involved. But it definitely takes time! I've had various combinations: 1) two dogs in my home, who were buddies. #3 came along, pretty mellow. But neither of the two "original" dogs ever played with her, and in fact, really did NOT get along. But after about a year, they all pretty much ignored each other. 2) a different two dogs, #3 comes along. #3 is mr. mellow, loves everyone but isn't a pain. #1 pretty much always ignored him. #2 took a short time, but #2 and #3 became best buddies. All of the above were fine with most people. So - it just depends! I know that's not particularly helpful, but just realize that "first impressions" aren't always accurate. Good luck! diane
  2. OOps. Duplicate post. (Is there no DELETE??) diane
  3. Check out Clean Run's courses - Tracy Sklenar (who is GREAT!) is doing a live zoom course on Sept. 11th. I believe the "premium" (i.e., working) spots are taken, but there's another level (no video, no critique) for $99. I am unable to view it that day, but it will be there later. It's agility-oriented, but all about focus and self-control. https://www.cleanrun.com/product/engagement_workshop_achieving_amazing_focus_teamwork_by_embracing_distractions_arousal_1_day_virtual_event_standard_registration/index.cfm diane
  4. I would say to continue going to the vet office when you don't have an appointment. You might have to start outside, have him watch other dogs going in and out, all the while getting the Very Best Treats Ever! Maybe even half a block away - whatever his trigger demands. (I know, it may not be the best if he does indeed have a food allergy, but if you gotta get him into the vet.....) After a number of trips like this, maybe just open the door and treat. Etc. etc. I have one who doesn't like the vet office (my first!), and she occasionally has to be muzzled. She's much better than she used to be, but still. Good luck. diane
  5. Nip it in the bud NOW!! There are times you won't be able to be "far away" while waiting your turn at an actual trial. (Voice of experience here...yep!) Do some searching (sorry, I can't just now) about teaching CALM behavior. It it hard - trust me! I know. But in the long run, you'll be glad you did. I've known dogs who are quite amped ring-side - but they are quiet. Maybe just holding a toy in their mouths., maybe doing "tricks" as mentioned above, maybe whatever. You'll need a "pre-run" routine - so might as well practice it at class. If your instructor is amenable (and I sure hope so!), maybe you could attend classes where you and your dog are doing nothing but standing, calmly, we hope, ringside. Start far enough away that your dog has no reaction. He'll soon learn that calm gets rewarded!! I know you said indoors - that is harder. Perhaps there's some place just outside or behind a wall or barrier of some kind that you can practice CALM. I'm not saying you do, but *some* people think that getting the dog really amped up means he'll run faster. NOPE! You need connection, control. Good luck, and keep us posted! diaen
  6. For general joint health: I had a rehab vet once tell me to alternate Platinum Performance CJ and Cosequin DS about every six months. I did that with my male dog, starting when he was about 8. (He'd gotten DS before that, due to hip dysplasia which, until he passed at 14 from fu*king cancer, showed NO symptoms ever.) I did this for a few years, ran out of DS once, and kept him on CJ the rest of his life. He just did better on it. So, it may take some experimenting to find what works best for your dog. Best of luck! diane
  7. You may not like either of these ideas, but it's all I've got. 1) You can try to desensitize your dog to handling. Start extremely slow! I'm not sure what he likes or doesn't like. But maybe it will be, in this case, touching him well below the wound. Treat! Treat! Treat!! Gradually (may take days....which in this case would not be good) move closer to it. If this is a general "don't touch me anywhere" case, start somewhere else (feet, back legs, belly, whatever).k 2) Muzzle train your dog. I have one who does NOT like people (esp. vets) near her face. Since she has very minor issues with eyes and nose (immune system problems), she needs to be examined up close. I trained her with a soft muzzle, through which she can eat treats. But even with lots of work, she still stresses when someone comes close. I saw the start of a training session the other day with someone holding what looked like a paper cup with the bottom cut out, holding it NEAR the dog's nose, and treating. Gradually move it up so it touches, then so it go actually onto the nose. Proceed from there. If you are really worried about the wound, a vet visit might be in order. And they may well muzzle the dog - they're used to it. If they won't, I'd find a new vet! diane
  8. Totally different tactic: Look at the BalanceIT website. BalanceIT is a supplement, added to homemade food. There is a list of veterinary nutritionists that can devise a diet specific for your dog. I have used several of them over the years, and absolutely trust them. It beats trying this, trying that, with no good results. The vet will want any recent vet records, especially blood work, and in your case, no doubt, allergy test results. I had an hour phone consult to start my last batch. Well worth the time and money! diane
  9. I'm on my fifth BC. My first was a rescue, that I got when she was 3.5 yr old. She had played ball (and rocks....ugh) with her previous owner and all of his friends. By age 10, she had TERRIBLE arthritis in her front feet from stopping abruptly to grab balls. I haven't seriously played ball with any of my BCs since. YMMV..... diane
  10. I agree with the "start at a low threshold" level. I adopted a BC they told me chased cars. It's not a problem at home, but where we hike, sometimes 4WD/ATVs are around. It was hard for awhile: having to stop, get a LONG way off the road, reward, reward, reward. There wasn't anywhere I was comfortable being with him where it was busier and we could be far enough away. After a year or so of "avoiding" the cars, he's much much better. We still get a ways off a road if that's where we see vehicles, but don't have to go quite as far anymore. And agree with - no free time in the garden if cars are going to go by. Very hard! But worth it in the long run. Good luck! diane
  11. What Journey said. I don't think 5K is a problem at all - but it would be better to be a "stop and sniff" walk. It's hard on a young dog's joints to run (or trot) that far before growth plates are closed (usually around a year of age). Good on you for asking! My pup is just now 6 months old. He's done a lot of off-leash "hiking" - but it often takes us well over an hour to go two miles (3K). diane
  12. What gcv said. Foundation, foundation, foundation! (And yes, I failed to do that with two different dogs - and it came back to bite me in the butt. So - foundation!) diane
  13. I think one key phrase you used...."a few weeks ago." I don't know how old this dog is, but a few weeks to overcome whatever her lifetime on the farm was, isn't very long. Give her a chance. She may (or may not!) come around. And bless you for taking her in! diane
  14. I saw that news too, and my first thought was also, "how many were sold?" And the study seemed quite flawed - mice to dogs, and how many dogs who died or were harmed could they tie directly to the collar? I live where fleas and ticks are not a problem (thank doG!). But I put collars on my three BCs when we traveled a few years ago to CA. We hiked in some woods, and they all three came out with LOTS of ticks on them. So, I guessed that the ticks have to bite first to get "poisoned" then die and fall off. So much for preventing tick borne diseases! One of those three later had cancer - but it developed a very long time after he wore the collar, so I can't really make a connection. I think I'll just stay home! diane
  15. All good advice given so far. One more thought: Even though your "come" cue may not be poisoned, consider what it sounds like. I have a ridiculous-sounding, high-pitched "pupper!" cue followed by the dogs' names (I have more than one). There's just NO way to sound mad or frustrated or anything but really happy when I say it. I *only* use it when I need them to turn tail and come to me, right now. It also takes the edge off if the dogs are approaching another person, especially one who may not be thrilled at being accosted by three rambunctious dogs (friendly, but still....). Sounding mad at that point may scare the other person even more! (I realize you're not addressing other people as such, but it applies nonetheless). Of course, your mileage may vary....but consider sounding ridiculous! :-) diane
  16. D'Elle: I don't think the Kongs in general do much for teeth, though at least they don't harm the teeth! I brush daily - yeah, it's a PITA, and it takes awhile for young dogs to adapt. I have a youngster now, who, for a week, just licked the dog toothpaste off the brush. He's now to the point of letting me swipe at his canines. By the time he gets his adult teeth, I think we'll have it down. I just see the "licking" Kongs as an attention diverter (from other things he shouldn't chew!), and brushing to take care of teeth. diane
  17. I too don't like most commercial chewie things. Kongs are my "go to" - various sizes, various "toughness." Fill with cream cheese, peanut butter, yogurt, cottage cheese, pieces of kibble mixed in and freeze. Hard chewers can actually chew pieces off - but it takes some serious chewing! diane
  18. Not that this will help in actual training...but perhaps in training you! I adopted a dog about two years ago, about two years old, who probably had never been allowed to run free. I hike a *lot* so a recall was important. Like yours, he was good when he was close. (BTW, he never had access to livestock, so no herding instinct there.) We did lots of "up close" work to start with. Now, after two years, if I call him and he comes back, he gets treats! (He *is* very food motivated!) I have two other dogs, one of whom does have an excellent recall, so I do think that helps. Just to point out that time is your friend. Or your enemy. Or your frenemy! Good luck and keep us posted! diane
  19. What they said, definitely. But also - perhaps this puppy/dog never learned to play? If play gets him over-aroused, perhaps not a good idea. But just some "mental exercises" might help. Play tug, then learn "give." Play fetch, then learn "relax" (which might be just a "down"). Etc. There are lots of gadgets that are mental exercises too, but you can make up some - like balls in muffin tins, with treats underneath. and definitely, give each thing you try some time to work. He may be a "dog" by now, but given his history, treat him like a baby puppy. And bless you for taking him on! diane
  20. You've gotten good advice (and have a very cute puppy!). One thing to remember - she's just a puppy! I know that by this age, we think they should begin to act like an adult. Ha!! It'll happen. It sounds like you are making a lot of effort to train her, and that is great. As far as calmness: I had one who was VERY food motivated, to the point of losing focus on anything else. One thing I did, with reasonable success, is to sit on the floor with him, hold food in my closed hand, and just wait until he backed off and was quiet. Then, voila! The food appeared quietly with a simple "Yes!". I eventually transitioned this to being able to hold the food on my open palm, and he knew not to take it until I said, "Get it!" He learned that rewards aren't always immediate, and that stillness/calmness would be rewarded too. Good luck, and keep us posted! diane
  21. Again, just my experience - and yours may vary. I had a 14 yr old BC, who had been VERY active and VERY fit her entire life. Her liver enzymes came back as elevated. After an ultrasound, my internal medicine vet (an absolutely wonderful guy) suggested surgery. I said to myself, "Self, do you really want to do this??" We had many and lengthy conversations about the risks, the possibilities pro and con, the eventual outcomes, the possibility of increased life span. Because (and only because) I really really really trust this guy - I said, "Let's do it." So they did. Turns out she had masses on three lobes of her liver; they removed two (lobes!), but the third was where all the lobes come together and they just couldn't. They also saw something "suspicious" on her spleen, so they removed that (the organ). Turns one NONE of the masses were cancerous, and the spleen problem was an old hematoma. She recovered from the surgery in about 2 days (though I "forced" recovery much longer!), and went on to live another happy, active 2.5 years. We're still not sure what took her in the end - might've been a brain tumor that developed very quickly, or might've been something else. But it was quick. I'm not suggesting surgery is the answer to your situation. You must do whatever you feel best. But just thought I'd share my story - which I still consider amazing. (That said, I recently lost another dog at age 14 yr to cancer, which was truly inoperable. I do get it.) Enjoy whatever time you have, and thank you for sharing your story. diane
  22. I admit - I haven't read every one of your posts. But: I have a 3.5 yr old BC (rescue, so who knows really) that was losing weight, though he had a good appetite. No vomiting, no diarrhea - but he has just been diagnosed with Inflammatory Bowel Disease. We started with an ultrasound, read by an expert (not my very good local vet), with no results. Endoscopy was recommended and done, with a number of biopsies. His is, hopefully, controllable, but will never be cured. It's worth at least looking into this. I hope it's NOT what your dog is going through. My dog had NO symptoms except weight loss, even after I increased his food by about 30%. He's going to put me in the poor house with his homemade diet now - but we'll be there together. diane
  23. Agree with everything that's been said, especially the 12 yr old walker. There's a boy in my neighborhood who got a lab puppy about a year ago. The dog now weighs more than the boy, though he is adamant about walking him twice a day (just down the street and back, and in a Halti - but at least the dog gets out!). One day, another person (not from the neighborhood) had a smaller dog out in the same area. The dogs "just wanted to say hi" (actually I don't think there was any aggression involved...thankfully), and BOTH dogs pulled out of their walker's hands. As said, thankfully, it was all friendly; but if it hadn't been.....you know. Another thought, that may not work, based on your son's situation: but how about a "New Year's gift" of a certificate for a trainer in the area? If he has time, if you can find one (sorry, not my area!), if if if. But it would perhaps reinforce the idea that training is FUN and needed! I would second, third, fourth the idea of pee pads for now. An 8 week old pup hasn't had all its vaccinations yet, and I wouldn't let him out of the "home base" until he's had all of them. I just brought 3 pups who were 9 weeks old, only had one vax (2nd was slightly postponed due to our travel plans, and they were a little "down" after the first one), from California to Utah in my RV. They never got out of the RV - I thought it would be harder, but pee pads, lots of paper towels and disinfectant, and they were fine for two days. I was glad to get my guy home and let him into my yard. I dunno what I'd do if I lived in an apartment with no yard - but forewarning about the vax and puppies. Good luck to all! diane
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