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diane allen

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  1. You may not like either of these ideas, but it's all I've got. 1) You can try to desensitize your dog to handling. Start extremely slow! I'm not sure what he likes or doesn't like. But maybe it will be, in this case, touching him well below the wound. Treat! Treat! Treat!! Gradually (may take days....which in this case would not be good) move closer to it. If this is a general "don't touch me anywhere" case, start somewhere else (feet, back legs, belly, whatever).k 2) Muzzle train your dog. I have one who does NOT like people (esp. vets) near her face. Since she has very minor issues with eyes and nose (immune system problems), she needs to be examined up close. I trained her with a soft muzzle, through which she can eat treats. But even with lots of work, she still stresses when someone comes close. I saw the start of a training session the other day with someone holding what looked like a paper cup with the bottom cut out, holding it NEAR the dog's nose, and treating. Gradually move it up so it touches, then so it go actually onto the nose. Proceed from there. If you are really worried about the wound, a vet visit might be in order. And they may well muzzle the dog - they're used to it. If they won't, I'd find a new vet! diane
  2. Totally different tactic: Look at the BalanceIT website. BalanceIT is a supplement, added to homemade food. There is a list of veterinary nutritionists that can devise a diet specific for your dog. I have used several of them over the years, and absolutely trust them. It beats trying this, trying that, with no good results. The vet will want any recent vet records, especially blood work, and in your case, no doubt, allergy test results. I had an hour phone consult to start my last batch. Well worth the time and money! diane
  3. I'm on my fifth BC. My first was a rescue, that I got when she was 3.5 yr old. She had played ball (and rocks....ugh) with her previous owner and all of his friends. By age 10, she had TERRIBLE arthritis in her front feet from stopping abruptly to grab balls. I haven't seriously played ball with any of my BCs since. YMMV..... diane
  4. I agree with the "start at a low threshold" level. I adopted a BC they told me chased cars. It's not a problem at home, but where we hike, sometimes 4WD/ATVs are around. It was hard for awhile: having to stop, get a LONG way off the road, reward, reward, reward. There wasn't anywhere I was comfortable being with him where it was busier and we could be far enough away. After a year or so of "avoiding" the cars, he's much much better. We still get a ways off a road if that's where we see vehicles, but don't have to go quite as far anymore. And agree with - no free time in the garden if cars are going to go by. Very hard! But worth it in the long run. Good luck! diane
  5. What Journey said. I don't think 5K is a problem at all - but it would be better to be a "stop and sniff" walk. It's hard on a young dog's joints to run (or trot) that far before growth plates are closed (usually around a year of age). Good on you for asking! My pup is just now 6 months old. He's done a lot of off-leash "hiking" - but it often takes us well over an hour to go two miles (3K). diane
  6. What gcv said. Foundation, foundation, foundation! (And yes, I failed to do that with two different dogs - and it came back to bite me in the butt. So - foundation!) diane
  7. I think one key phrase you used...."a few weeks ago." I don't know how old this dog is, but a few weeks to overcome whatever her lifetime on the farm was, isn't very long. Give her a chance. She may (or may not!) come around. And bless you for taking her in! diane
  8. I saw that news too, and my first thought was also, "how many were sold?" And the study seemed quite flawed - mice to dogs, and how many dogs who died or were harmed could they tie directly to the collar? I live where fleas and ticks are not a problem (thank doG!). But I put collars on my three BCs when we traveled a few years ago to CA. We hiked in some woods, and they all three came out with LOTS of ticks on them. So, I guessed that the ticks have to bite first to get "poisoned" then die and fall off. So much for preventing tick borne diseases! One of those three later had cancer - but it developed a very long time after he wore the collar, so I can't really make a connection. I think I'll just stay home! diane
  9. All good advice given so far. One more thought: Even though your "come" cue may not be poisoned, consider what it sounds like. I have a ridiculous-sounding, high-pitched "pupper!" cue followed by the dogs' names (I have more than one). There's just NO way to sound mad or frustrated or anything but really happy when I say it. I *only* use it when I need them to turn tail and come to me, right now. It also takes the edge off if the dogs are approaching another person, especially one who may not be thrilled at being accosted by three rambunctious dogs (friendly, but still....). Sounding mad at that point may scare the other person even more! (I realize you're not addressing other people as such, but it applies nonetheless). Of course, your mileage may vary....but consider sounding ridiculous! :-) diane
  10. D'Elle: I don't think the Kongs in general do much for teeth, though at least they don't harm the teeth! I brush daily - yeah, it's a PITA, and it takes awhile for young dogs to adapt. I have a youngster now, who, for a week, just licked the dog toothpaste off the brush. He's now to the point of letting me swipe at his canines. By the time he gets his adult teeth, I think we'll have it down. I just see the "licking" Kongs as an attention diverter (from other things he shouldn't chew!), and brushing to take care of teeth. diane
  11. I too don't like most commercial chewie things. Kongs are my "go to" - various sizes, various "toughness." Fill with cream cheese, peanut butter, yogurt, cottage cheese, pieces of kibble mixed in and freeze. Hard chewers can actually chew pieces off - but it takes some serious chewing! diane
  12. Not that this will help in actual training...but perhaps in training you! I adopted a dog about two years ago, about two years old, who probably had never been allowed to run free. I hike a *lot* so a recall was important. Like yours, he was good when he was close. (BTW, he never had access to livestock, so no herding instinct there.) We did lots of "up close" work to start with. Now, after two years, if I call him and he comes back, he gets treats! (He *is* very food motivated!) I have two other dogs, one of whom does have an excellent recall, so I do think that helps. Just to point out that time is your friend. Or your enemy. Or your frenemy! Good luck and keep us posted! diane
  13. What they said, definitely. But also - perhaps this puppy/dog never learned to play? If play gets him over-aroused, perhaps not a good idea. But just some "mental exercises" might help. Play tug, then learn "give." Play fetch, then learn "relax" (which might be just a "down"). Etc. There are lots of gadgets that are mental exercises too, but you can make up some - like balls in muffin tins, with treats underneath. and definitely, give each thing you try some time to work. He may be a "dog" by now, but given his history, treat him like a baby puppy. And bless you for taking him on! diane
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