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diane allen

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  1. What they all said! Plus...don't expect two dogs who come from different backgrounds to instantly get along. They say it takes three weeks for a rescue dog to "adjust" to a new home; that, obviously, varies with the dogs involved. But it definitely takes time! I've had various combinations: 1) two dogs in my home, who were buddies. #3 came along, pretty mellow. But neither of the two "original" dogs ever played with her, and in fact, really did NOT get along. But after about a year, they all pretty much ignored each other. 2) a different two dogs, #3 comes along. #3 is mr. mellow, loves everyone but isn't a pain. #1 pretty much always ignored him. #2 took a short time, but #2 and #3 became best buddies. All of the above were fine with most people. So - it just depends! I know that's not particularly helpful, but just realize that "first impressions" aren't always accurate. Good luck! diane
  2. OOps. Duplicate post. (Is there no DELETE??) diane
  3. Check out Clean Run's courses - Tracy Sklenar (who is GREAT!) is doing a live zoom course on Sept. 11th. I believe the "premium" (i.e., working) spots are taken, but there's another level (no video, no critique) for $99. I am unable to view it that day, but it will be there later. It's agility-oriented, but all about focus and self-control. https://www.cleanrun.com/product/engagement_workshop_achieving_amazing_focus_teamwork_by_embracing_distractions_arousal_1_day_virtual_event_standard_registration/index.cfm diane
  4. I would say to continue going to the vet office when you don't have an appointment. You might have to start outside, have him watch other dogs going in and out, all the while getting the Very Best Treats Ever! Maybe even half a block away - whatever his trigger demands. (I know, it may not be the best if he does indeed have a food allergy, but if you gotta get him into the vet.....) After a number of trips like this, maybe just open the door and treat. Etc. etc. I have one who doesn't like the vet office (my first!), and she occasionally has to be muzzled. She's much better than she used to be, but still. Good luck. diane
  5. Nip it in the bud NOW!! There are times you won't be able to be "far away" while waiting your turn at an actual trial. (Voice of experience here...yep!) Do some searching (sorry, I can't just now) about teaching CALM behavior. It it hard - trust me! I know. But in the long run, you'll be glad you did. I've known dogs who are quite amped ring-side - but they are quiet. Maybe just holding a toy in their mouths., maybe doing "tricks" as mentioned above, maybe whatever. You'll need a "pre-run" routine - so might as well practice it at class. If your instructor is amenable (and I sure hope so!), maybe you could attend classes where you and your dog are doing nothing but standing, calmly, we hope, ringside. Start far enough away that your dog has no reaction. He'll soon learn that calm gets rewarded!! I know you said indoors - that is harder. Perhaps there's some place just outside or behind a wall or barrier of some kind that you can practice CALM. I'm not saying you do, but *some* people think that getting the dog really amped up means he'll run faster. NOPE! You need connection, control. Good luck, and keep us posted! diaen
  6. For general joint health: I had a rehab vet once tell me to alternate Platinum Performance CJ and Cosequin DS about every six months. I did that with my male dog, starting when he was about 8. (He'd gotten DS before that, due to hip dysplasia which, until he passed at 14 from fu*king cancer, showed NO symptoms ever.) I did this for a few years, ran out of DS once, and kept him on CJ the rest of his life. He just did better on it. So, it may take some experimenting to find what works best for your dog. Best of luck! diane
  7. You may not like either of these ideas, but it's all I've got. 1) You can try to desensitize your dog to handling. Start extremely slow! I'm not sure what he likes or doesn't like. But maybe it will be, in this case, touching him well below the wound. Treat! Treat! Treat!! Gradually (may take days....which in this case would not be good) move closer to it. If this is a general "don't touch me anywhere" case, start somewhere else (feet, back legs, belly, whatever).k 2) Muzzle train your dog. I have one who does NOT like people (esp. vets) near her face. Since she has very minor issues with eyes and nose (immune system problems), she needs to be examined up close. I trained her with a soft muzzle, through which she can eat treats. But even with lots of work, she still stresses when someone comes close. I saw the start of a training session the other day with someone holding what looked like a paper cup with the bottom cut out, holding it NEAR the dog's nose, and treating. Gradually move it up so it touches, then so it go actually onto the nose. Proceed from there. If you are really worried about the wound, a vet visit might be in order. And they may well muzzle the dog - they're used to it. If they won't, I'd find a new vet! diane
  8. Totally different tactic: Look at the BalanceIT website. BalanceIT is a supplement, added to homemade food. There is a list of veterinary nutritionists that can devise a diet specific for your dog. I have used several of them over the years, and absolutely trust them. It beats trying this, trying that, with no good results. The vet will want any recent vet records, especially blood work, and in your case, no doubt, allergy test results. I had an hour phone consult to start my last batch. Well worth the time and money! diane
  9. I'm on my fifth BC. My first was a rescue, that I got when she was 3.5 yr old. She had played ball (and rocks....ugh) with her previous owner and all of his friends. By age 10, she had TERRIBLE arthritis in her front feet from stopping abruptly to grab balls. I haven't seriously played ball with any of my BCs since. YMMV..... diane
  10. I agree with the "start at a low threshold" level. I adopted a BC they told me chased cars. It's not a problem at home, but where we hike, sometimes 4WD/ATVs are around. It was hard for awhile: having to stop, get a LONG way off the road, reward, reward, reward. There wasn't anywhere I was comfortable being with him where it was busier and we could be far enough away. After a year or so of "avoiding" the cars, he's much much better. We still get a ways off a road if that's where we see vehicles, but don't have to go quite as far anymore. And agree with - no free time in the garden if cars are going to go by. Very hard! But worth it in the long run. Good luck! diane
  11. What Journey said. I don't think 5K is a problem at all - but it would be better to be a "stop and sniff" walk. It's hard on a young dog's joints to run (or trot) that far before growth plates are closed (usually around a year of age). Good on you for asking! My pup is just now 6 months old. He's done a lot of off-leash "hiking" - but it often takes us well over an hour to go two miles (3K). diane
  12. What gcv said. Foundation, foundation, foundation! (And yes, I failed to do that with two different dogs - and it came back to bite me in the butt. So - foundation!) diane
  13. I think one key phrase you used...."a few weeks ago." I don't know how old this dog is, but a few weeks to overcome whatever her lifetime on the farm was, isn't very long. Give her a chance. She may (or may not!) come around. And bless you for taking her in! diane
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