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laurie etc

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Everything posted by laurie etc

  1. My current vehicle: 2006 Dodge Sprinter - Upside: fuel efficient Mercedes Diesel Engine, Easily fits 10 24x36 Dog crates and has room to stand up and walk down the length of it. Downside: it's rear wheel drive... Added bonus: in a pinch, not only can you take you dogs, but you can haul the sheep in it too! (And it's heavy duty enough to pull a trailer). Truthfully - Anybody want to buy it? I have 2 vehicles and can only afford to make payments on one. Email me privately for details! Laurie
  2. (Disclaimer: I'm not a vet, so please don't take this as medical advise, just my own opinion.) Does your other dog eat the same diet? Is he OK? If they ate the same items, and only one is sick, I would take him in for a look-see. Might be nothing, but better safe than sorry. I had a nasty case of food poisoning with all my dogs the first of January. Every one had eaten pork necks for dinner, and everyone produced a version of loose stool and/or vomit overnight. So I knew it was the food, and was able to treat them all by fasting a day, and then giving bland small portions of rice/cooked chicken/pumpkin for a couple days or so. I also gave the dogs who were continuing after the overnight episode a few doses of Parvaid and Metronidazole (Flagyl)- great stuff to keep on hand for emergency gastric problems. Laurie
  3. I've been teaching and testing CGC for years. Your Mom is right - She won't pass if she cries, whines, paces during the supervised separation. Try increasing the amount of time slowly. Start with 15-30 seconds, and gradually build the time. Get an idea of when she starts feeling anxious, and work just below her threshold for awhile, coming back to reward for being calm before the anxiety starts. Also, try giving her a cue, like saying "I'll be right back", walking away, coming back and rewarding the composure. If she can concentrate on maintaining composure in anticipation of you coming back to reward, it will be easier for her to deal with the longer separation. The examination is actually a sit for exam, although I allow a stand or down as long as the dog is cooperative. The dog should not be cringing in fear, jumping on or biting the examiner; but a little bit of wiggling, tail tucking and movement is acceptable to most examiners, as long as the dog is controlled and calm. The owner can actually put a finger under the collar to steady the dog if necessary. Laurie
  4. Because you are good person who truly cares about the INDIVIDUAL animals you treat, and about people and animals in general. You are one of a rare breed. Thank you! I do know a few vets like you; I ADORE them! But I also know plenty of vets who may have started out caring, conscientious, wanting to make a difference; but do not take the time to consider an individual animal's best interest. I don't think it's a money thing at all. It's more of a "volume thing" that comes from living and working in our fast paced society. They work in "production line" veterinary clinics, where one protocol fits all. They will vaccinate with everything under the sun because the drug companies make/test the vaccines, so they "must" be safe; and they espouse the feeling that "more is better" when it comes to disease protection. Drug companies sell this idea. They are the ones making the big bucks, not the vets. Busy, overbooked, overworked vets may not have the time or desire to read up on what the latest studies are proving. It's easier and more efficient to just go ahead and hit 'em with a 5-way vaccine, a rabies vaccine, dewormer, medication for ticks and fleas, drops for their itchy ears, and send 'em out the door with a bag of Science Diet. Unless a client educates himself, he has no way of knowing whether what a vet does to his animal is appropriate or not. I'd throw this back in the pet owner's corner. It's our responsibility as animal owners/caregivers to be "educated consumers". Read up, ask questions, get answers. Then make an educated decision for your own animals; hopefully with the help of an educated, caring veterinarian you can trust to treat your animals as individuals. Laurie
  5. Thanks Becca and Bill - when my daughter gets here to help hold her, we'll give it a try. I'm going to take a picture of it - hopefully "before AND after". I've wrapped enough horse legs in my days as a horse owner/vet tech , I think we can manage as long as the ewe cooperates. I do know about padding it, and using LOTS of Duct tape to secure the splint. Laurie
  6. I had a pregnant ewe come up to eat last night with what looks like a hind leg fracture - just below the hock. The ewe seems bright and alert otherwise, and is eating and drinking. It's not compound, no wound, and there isn't much, if any, swelling. I could restrain her myself well enough to tell that there isn't really "crepitous", and she has circulation to the lower leg. It's almost like the ligaments that attach the hock and cannon bone may have been severely strained or partially ruptured on the medial side. She is not weight bearing on it, but when she touches her toe down, the whole lower leg obviously abducts to the outside, below the hock. Anyone have any experience with how these would do in a splint? I won't have help to splint it until this evening, but I was thinking of wrapping/padding it with cotton and vet wrap, then splinting with PVC from above the hock to below the fetlock joint on both sides of the leg, to keep it from bending side to side. For right now, she's in a stall with a buddy, she is doing fine just standing on the other 3 legs, and doesn't seem overly concerned. She's not due to lamb the until first week of April. She looks to be carrying twins. Is it worth a shot to try to fix her? thanks, Laurie
  7. sorry - maybe it's just late and I'm tired- where is "E. NE"? thanks, Laurie
  8. I have mixed emotions about "crate traiining" a pup so young, especially in Winter. Unless you are planning to be with her every moment, including night time, I would guess you WILL have accidents in the crate. Her bladder is just not mature enough to hold it for very long. I wouldn't actually start limiting her crate space until she is at least 8 weeks. Until then, plan on having a larger space for her with newspapers on one side that she can "use" if she has to, and her crate on the other side that she can sleep in. An exercise pen is ideal for this, but I've used a bathroom with a baby gate, too. When you can't be there to take her out to potty at least every 1-2 hours, let her have run of the large space. IMO, in the long run, this will make crate training/house breaking easier and not let her get the idea that it's OK to soil the crate. Also, she still REALLY needs doggie socialization, so seek out some healthy/pup-friendly adult dogs and pups for play dates. Taking a pup away from all canine contact at her age is a good way to get a "socially incorrect" dog later on, but even occasional nice dog interactions now will benefit her in the long run. Make sure that whatever dogs she gets to meet are used to dealing with puppies; and are healthy as well, since she's probably not been vaccinated yet, and her maternal antibodies are close to waning (usually 9-12 weeks, but could be earlier). I personally don't see any benefit to vaccinating before 9 weeks, but have never had a problem with my pups being introduced to other "safe" dogs at an early age. Laurie
  9. Good post - Mine get a lot of their RMB's frozen, as well. Both from "laziness" and it keeps them chewing and happy longer. I also agree that the chewing sets the digestive system up better. If I were feeding a prepared food like that (and occasionally I feed Bravo ground), I'd slice it and feed it semi-frozen, as well. I'd probably offer a smallish frozen RMB (like a turkey, pork or veal neck) along with the ground food. Laurie
  10. Mine do- if they know what's good for them... In my household "girls rule, boys drool!" Apparently, the girls make up the rules, too! My most dominant boy is reluctantly forced to be "the rabbit" and the girls all line up behind him. The less dominant boys just try hard to stay out of trouble somewhere on the fringes, but aren't permitted to "work" the dominant boy or the girls. Laurie
  11. Thanks Kathy and Liz! I'm not sure of his exact routine, but I know he gets lots of one-on-one training, leash walking and casual play time, too. I think my friend is on the right track - with the redirection activities, and crating with a chew bone when she can't be there to watch him. In searching through sheepdog-l and a few other sources, it seems this commonly starts around 6 -8 months, when a Border Collie pup might "turn on" to herding stock, and maybe this behavior is a redirection of that energy. Another person on sheepdog-l mentioned some research that had shown a correlation between OC behavior and the rabies vaccine. So, lots of things for my friend to check into and think about. Maybe she should consult a holistic vet if she has recently rabies vaccinated him, and I'll tell her about the Tufts Petfax. Laurie
  12. Julie - Thanks, I agree with what you're saying and appreciate the response. My friend is in NYC, so maybe there's a behaviorist in her area who can work with her. Anyone know one to recommend? Laurie
  13. I did suggest that to her, but I thought maybe some folks here might have some personal insight into it. I don't think it is an uncommon problem in Border Collies, since when I google "shadow chasing" I come up with a slew of Border Collie related sites. Interestingly, there are also a lot of you tube videos of human infants and small children chasing shadows...hmmm...I guess humans grow out of it; but it's interesting that we find it "normal" in developing humans, but a problem behavior in dogs. I don't think my friend wants to medicate this pup, but she wants to find a way to curb the behavior so that he can be a useful dog, and chasing shadows doesn't take over his life. (And don't worry, he's slated to be neutered when his growth plated close.) I heard once that there's a very prominent USBCHA finals dog who chases shadows in his spare time. If that's true, then maybe it's not really a big deal (since obviously at least THAT Border Collie can separate "work" from this mindless pastime). Laurie
  14. It started about 2 months ago - basically, he noticed his own shadow (I think) and went after it. He was never reinforced for this, as in "isn't that cute?!". My friend recognized it as a behavior she didn't want to perpetuate, so has been managing the pup to avoid the shadow issues (keeping him on leash when there are shadows, redirecting him to other activities if he looks at them, crating when he can't be watched so he doesn't "find" shadows on his own). The pup does not live near me, so I haven't actually seen him doing it, but apparently it is getting worse and he is looking for shadows more and more. Seems to be a self gratification kind of thing, you know, like how some dogs amuse themselves by playing with/tossing toys in the air. He naturally has a good off button, and relaxes readily, but if he's loose he now wants to go find a shadow to entertain himself. This wouldn't be so bad (I guess) except my friend says shadows are now starting to distract him when he is in "training mode" and this new development has her worried. Up until now, he has been very focused during training sessions (he is doing puppy level training for agility, obedience, disc dog - and will be learning to work sheep eventually). I don't think she is reading him wrong, but is pretty concerned about this becoming an OC behavior that goes out of control. She is aware of the SG methods, I'll suggest she look into reading that book if she hasn't already. One agility trainer she went to suggested she "put the shadow chasing on cue" (so that it would extinguish when not cued) but I have a feeling that this is not the kind of behavior that will work that way. Laurie
  15. A friend's 8 month old Border Collie pup has started shadow chasing. This pup is a dream in every other way. Even though my friend has tried "redirection", crating, and keeping him on a leash to curtail it, his obsession is getting worse. It seems to escalate when he is excited/stimulated (not when he is bored), so she has been working on enforcing and rewarding him for "chilling out". He is working bred, and none of his close relatives exhibit this sort of OC behavior. He gets lots of exercise, play and daily mental training. He is not a "bored pup" left to his own devices, as seems to be the "norm" for dogs with this kind of behavior. Any advise is appreciated regarding things she can try to nip this in the bud, and/or links to recent data about this issue. I tried searching this forum and googling, but didn't come up with much. I usually try to think of positive ways to shape/modify behavior, but for something so self gratifying, I thought of using a water pistol or shaker can as an aversive. Any other ideas? Laurie
  16. thinking back to my Golden Retriever days... I prefer a dog with a bit of a "toe out" as a youngster. (as long as it's not extreme, and he wasn't horrible as a little pup). At 10 months old, Marco's chest has not "dropped" yet, so when it does, you will be surprised at how his front legs seem to straighten. If he was "square" right now, he might end up "toed in and elbows out" as an adult. In Goldens, (and in Border Collies) , a slightly close front assembly with a bit larger ribcage usually lends to a better length of stride (more efficient, ground covering) and more freedom in the shoulder/scapula (makes for a better athlete overall). Think of a whippet versus a bulldog in movement. Somewhere in between would work for sporting and herding dogs, tending towards the whippet build. Laurie
  17. Thank you. I've stayed out of the emotional discussion, but I think these guidelines are very good. Rescue is not "my life" but I like to help out where I can with pulling, evaluating, transport and/or fostering. I don't have time to troll the rescue boards, or call shelters; and I'm not affiliated with any specific rescue group. (Been there, done that...many moons ago.) My contact information is on this board, and I appreciate the dogs posted here being at least "known entities" who are actually in need of transport, fostering, or adoption - with a single rescue contact having taken the lead so that everyones' time and energy is not duplicated (and subsequently wasted). Laurie
  18. Hmmm. Not really. While there ARE white factored merles, there are probably EXTREMELY few actual cryptic merles, and you'd have to be pretty blind (or ignorant) to confuse a white factored black and white BC with an actual merle. Besides, one of the parents of a "cryptic merle" would have to be a merle, so if you knew the pedigree, you would be able to avoid this whole issue. I think the problem comes more frequently in Shelties, where sable merles can be mistaken for sables because of the washed out merling in the tan coat. Sheltie breeders do lots of weird crossing, but they stay away from breeding sables to merles because of this. I do know some uni -deaf dogs from breeding white factored to white-factored merles; and also just crossing two highly white-factored or white-headed dogs, as well. It's a shame but it happens more frequently than people realize - most dogs learn to compensate fairly well, and owners never know unless they have the dogs BAER tested. Laurie
  19. Well that 's a positive note that she thought about discouraging you...sort of... but apparently she would still take your money. Again, I'm glad you decided to come here to ask questions. I'm not normally one to get on here and sway someone from buying a pup - BUT... In another response - you quoted the breeder.. "The puppies get their first distemper shot done by a vet at 7 weeks. And I will get the Heart Guard from the vet also. Then you will need to get a distemper shot 3 times every two weeks and give heart guard once a month. Talk to your vet, because you will have different bugs living in Virgina Beach so he might need additional pertection. I own both parents and the daughters that are on the photo site. I've had mom for four years and dad for two. Their health is great." "Their health is great" is a sure sign that the breeder hasn't done ANY genetic testing whatsoever. Border Collies can have numerous problems such as hip dysplasia, CEA, other eye problems, deafness, epilepsy, immune disorders, overheating disorders. She doesn't test her dogs, and her dogs are not worked to test their soundness (and they aren't really old enough to even display most healthy issues that can occur later in life). Producing white puppies happens - but then repeating that cross is proof that the breeder is not concerned about or is not knowledgeable about the things that can go wrong. I would be BAER testing (hearing test) any pup that is overtly white around the head and ears. Deafness is an easy thing to miss, especially in an active puppy, and there are many undiagnosed cases with Border Collies. She does not even have a real handle on what puppy vaccines are needed, and how often. No vet, no matter the protocol, would recommend vaccinating puppies every 2 weeks. Laurie ETA -Julie posted the same time as me - about the same thing. Didn't mean to bombard you.
  20. Thanks for coming on the boards for opinions! I certainly would not recommend anyone other than the most experienced dog person attempt to raise and train two littermates at the same time. And especially Border Collie litermates. And especially a first time Border Collie owner. Big Red Flag to me is that a breeder would sell two pups to a first time BC owner- AND looking at the puppy pictures, I'd put my money on the probability of this is a double merle breeding, or at best a breeding that should not have taken place - merle to highly white factored (or color-headed white)! Have you met the breeder and sire/dam in person, or is this an "internet deal"? Laurie
  21. I totally agree with Julie here- especially if you don't 't have a contract in place or anything invested in this particular pup. I happen to own a blue merle, quite by accident, and wouldn't trade her for the world. But I'm extremely color blind when it comes to working ability, health, temperament and longevity; and breeders who are primarily breeding for "color" often are willing to overlook those most important things. Laurie
  22. Just catching up with this thread - I think it's pretty obvious that this pup is NOT from a merle/merle breeding (4 solid pups/4 merle pups), but there can be birth defects in any litter - any color, and from what I've read, this kind of "walleye" defect might be more common with less pigmented (more white) dogs. Puppy eyes can appear a bit more widespread than adult eyes, but the pupils should be symmetrical. My daughter has an older double merle that has dysgenesis affected eyes. Even though she was a talented agility dog, she really can not see in bright sunlight, as she does not have the proper nerve connections that cause her pupils to constrict, and her pupils are not symmetric (like your merle pup). Unfortunately, I don't have a good picture of her eyes close up. She does fine in dim light, but has some of the related double merle internal issues (bladder and organ malformations) which have been problematic in her old age. Possibly this breeder isn't familiar with the need to have puppy eyes checked, but maybe you could educate her that an eye exam for BC pups between 6 and 12 weeks is the norm. The red merle pup could go on to live a totally normal life, but better to know up front if there is truly a handicap, or just a cosmetic oddity. Laurie
  23. Ya know - I have the same issues with a couple of youngsters - one much worse than the other (she doesn't just wheee, she wheee's, then grips, then flips- kinda like a professional rodeo roper). I have struggled with the same thing- to remember to quickly direct the dog to the right thought and task rather than just concentrate on correcting/blocking for the wrong thought or action. Timing is everything, and the timing is hard! It's REALLY frickin' hard with a KEEN youngster!! Everything happens so fast sometimes. I know in my head that I need to be "relentless" in my insistence that the wrong thought NOT turn into the wrong action, but in "the heat of battle", I'm often way too slow in reading the dog, allowing the dog to regroup and choose the right action - I'm too busy being relentless. I think when that happens, my girl just thinks well, heck, I'll just run faster and try harder to beat the big nagging person in my way. By continuing to just "stop her" instead of a allowing her to come up with an alternative course of action that might be acceptable, she isn't really learning anything (except how fast she needs to go to beat me). This would explain why my instructor can work her just fine, and she doesn't usually even try the shenanigans with him. Hmmm. Anyways, thanks for posting. Good food for thought... Laurie
  24. laurie etc

    Red Dog

    "...there is one best place to bury a dog. If you bury him in this spot, he will come to you when you call -- come to you over the grim, dim frontiers of death, and down the well-remembered path, and to your side again. And though you call a dozen living dogs to heel they shall not growl at him, nor resent his coming, for he belongs there. People may scoff at you, who see no lightest blade of grass bent by his footfall, who hear no whimper, people who may never really have had a dog. Smile at them, for you shall know something that is hidden from them, and which is well worth the knowing. The one best place to bury a good dog is in the heart of his master." excerpt from the Portland Oregonian, Sept. 11, 1925. By Ben Hur Lamp Sheena, I'm so sorry for your loss. You did right by him. Just whisper his name, and he'll be there in memory and spirit. Laurie
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