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laurie etc

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    Wild Wonderful West Virginia

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  1. Isn't that how the MH and RS investigations got started? Disgruntled buyers turning to ABCA for help? I wouldn't underestimate the buying public just because they are buying from puppyfind. I would think they would still want their registration papers to validate their fine purchases. I'm certainly not saying ABCA is at fault; but find it strange that as this guy's life deteriorated from a "Border Collie Breeder" to an "out of control Hoarder" that there weren't some red flags from the customers who bought his puppies. Maybe ABCA IS already looking into it. If not, shouldn't they be now just to confirm how many litters he registered, checking DNA against pedigrees before the "evidence" all gets sent out to rescues and/or adopted and there's no access to the DNA any longer.
  2. I agree - there wouldn't be strange dogs roaming in without severe consequences. One account I read said they found some dead puppies under a truck. Sad to say, but if the dogs were hungry enough I would not expect to find any live puppies. I don't believe there is a "breeding season" for dogs other than maybe Basenjis. Intact bitches are going to keep coming in season every 6-10 months year round.
  3. Journey, I wasn't throwing ABCA under the bus(your words, not mine). I don't think that the man has always been mentally unstable; I think at first he "thought" he had a good money-making product, that turned into a tragic hoarding situation. I guess my question should have been worded "Why hadn't this guy been turned in and/or investigated by ABCA for his breeding practices before it came to this?". You can't tell me that there weren't some dis-satisfied customers with all the advertising and breeding he was doing. His ads on puppyfind and his websites at least infer that he was selling "ABCA registrable" pups (see link below). I agree that anything he produced in the past year or two (maybe more) ought to be DNA tested and/or papers rescinded. With that large a colony of dogs running loose, there's really no way to have any kind of controlled breeding program. It will be interesting and sad to see how many of the bitches are pregnant when all is said and done. As an aside, I think it's typical that non-Border Collie folks think anything that isn't Black/White and fluffy must be a mix or an Aussie or Sheltie cross. All the dogs in those pictures and video clips look like Border Collies to me. Laurie recent puppyfind link: http://www.puppyfind.com/view_listing/?list_id=hc4m65m3n3&sid=b69451b9aededfd2f1ad7e7e1d340149&back=%2Fl%2F%3Facct_id%3D102791%26country%3D%26state%3D%26page%3D1%26order_by%3D%26back%3D
  4. http://www.bcrescue.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=10414&st=0&sk=t&sd=a this thread has more details...
  5. The news reports I read list the location as Joe Davis Road in Jefferson Texas, and that's his address. Also, on the rescue boards, one of his children is reported to have told the Humane Society that he imported some stud dogs from Ireland, and paid a lot for them when he started the kennel. If you Google his websites, he proudly lists two Irish merle imports as the sire of his pups, and that the pups are ABCA registered/registerable. If you look at RD's website, she has copies of the pedigrees for the Irish dogs, registered to him. Seems pretty unlikely that there would be two Border Collie puppy mills on the same road with Irish Imports, right?
  6. I wonder if ABCA is even aware of this, if so if they would help? And why wasn't this guy investigated already? He did a lot of advertising on puppyfind and stockdog lists. These are/were supposedly ABCA registered dogs. Some from imported ISDS dogs. I did a little searching - Sand Spring Border Collies - John T Wilson in Jefferson TX. Maybe ABCA could cough up a little $ to help with the vetting and transport if nothing else? http://www.puppyfind.com/redirect/?acct_id=102791&list_id=ztyel45w9m Laurie (back to lurk mode now)
  7. run, do not walk, away from this trainer. find one who understands dog behavior. read this link- one of my favorites... "he just wants to say hi" http://www.positiveway.us/Downloads/HeJustWantsToSayHi.pdf Laurie
  8. Certainly not talking about Aled Owen or ROY... and I have no stake in these breeders, but I see some blanket comments in this thread that could be considered pointedly defamatory, for instance... “RS also inbreed(s) on(e) some horrific temperaments.” “I think you need your head examined to pay their prices at LE and be on a waiting list for dogs esp with some of the negatives in their lines such as seizures and deafness.” “Temperament issues in the Rising Sun lines are prevalent, period.” People might want to watch what they post publicly, that's all. Laurie
  9. OK - just pack Dot up in a box and send her to me . Laurie PS - Some of ya'll should probably watch what you are typing/insinuating on a public forum - things are sounding a bit slanderous at times.
  10. Well sure. But to me there is a lot of difference between a dog bred with his foremost job as a "lap dog" and Border Collie. I would certainly hope that a good Lhasa would have pretty strong inherent bite inhibition, or he wouldn't be much of a companion dog breed. Herding/working dogs are much more apt to use their teeth as part of their jobs, so therefore might be a little harder to convince. I have a five year old dog that I raised from a pup who still likes to mouth my sleeve/hands occasionally when we run agility. I let her get away with it as a pup, when I didn't have a toy or leash handy, and needed to distract her fom staring down other dogs. Her default when she gets too excited in agility is often to "mouth" at my sleeves or hands. I wish I hadn't let her do it, but hind site's 20/20. Granted, she doesn't break the skin or even leave a mark, but it would be a stupid way to get disqualified. Laurie
  11. Admir Ski said " I can't get a handle on the process of teaching him to moderate his bite. He has a few (hardly ever) times when he'll just mouth, but it quickly escalates, and then sometimes he just goes straight to trying to bite my arm/hand/leg off. How do you reward soft biting? Should you?" I can think of 3 reason why dogs don't have bite inhibition. I'm not advocating any type of punishment for puppy biting, which could cause a dog to later "lash out", not knowing how to control his bite. Another reason dogs don't learn bite inhibition is that some pups never mouth or bite at all as puppies, so never learn inhibition. When the day comes that they need to use their teeth, they go "all out". Another reason is being taken away from Mom and littermates too early, before his "own kind' have taught him that hard biting is unacceptable. Your puppy bites. Do you really want a dog that puts his teeth on you as an adult? Why would you "reward" any type of biting? Basically, you just tolerate "puppy mouthing", and then teach an off to deal with the hard biting. It's not rocket science. You are probably making way too much out of the whole thing. Some pups just bite hard. They need to learn not to. Laurie
  12. I haven'd through all your posts regarding Skis' biting, but here are a couple sugggestions: 1) Stop treating him like a baby. He is a dog. You are the human. Establish that relationship now while he is small. Make your hands, ankles , body parts more unvailable. By that I mean, stop "offering them" and moving them around. Many people make the mistake of getting down to the pup's level, to play. That puts you on equal terms, and you don't want to be. A little pup can't bite your arms/hands if you are standing; and if he's going for ankles, pants legs, it is much less fun to bite something that is stationary. Stopping movement usually stops the action. 2) If he is persistent in biting pants legs and the muzzle hold isn't working, elevate him off his feet. Pick him up, not cuddling, take him out of control of the situation. Once he settles, put him back down. If he persists, a time out in the crate until the idea leaves his head is warranted. 3) If you haven't already, start teaching him to "settle" in his crate. He needs to learn he has an "off button". Give him some crate time to chew a bone, chill out, not demand attention. Start in short increments, when he is quiet, randomly, quietly go by the crate and drop a small treat in. Don't reward or give attention when he is "demanding" attention, only when he is quiet. 4) Teach an "Off" with a toy. Get him playing/biting a toy. Use a toy on a rope, or a long tug toy. Not something that he can accidentally latch onto your hand with. Move the toy around, play with him, then once he is engaged in biting/chasing the toy, firmly clamp it to you thigh/hip, and say "off". Game over. The movement is stopped, and he will soon think this non-moving toy is pretty boring. When he lets go of the toy, praise, pause a few seconds to let it sink in, and then the game can resume. It's a give and take game. You offer the toy = he gets to bite. You stop the action and say "off" = he stops biting. If he trys to get to your hand instead of the toy, the game stops. He learns that teeth on human skin is not permitted. Once he understands "off" on a toy, you can use the command with anything he is mouthing/biting. Laurie
  13. Consider asking your vet for valium supositories (no needles involved, but fairly quick to act). A friend with an epileptic dog keeps them on hand, so she can quickly administer if her dog starts seizing and won't stop. It is a controlled substance, but can be prescribed (not sure of the shelf life, though). Laurie
  14. I actually whelp puppies in a cozy quiet area like a bathroom, so there's no where the bitch can hide that I can't get to. Another way would be to put an expen around the pool with a cover like Julie suggested. Once she actually has the first puppy, she will be much more likely to settle in one place. Right now she's uncomfortable and confused about the whole thing (thinking she needs to potty because of the pressure). Just keep an eye on her and try not to panic. You'll probably see contractions and pushing (bearing down) before she has the first one, and before every other one. She can have them standing, squatting or lying down. I've had bitches act really scared their first time and try to run away from the pain. Sitting with those helped, and hormones kick in pretty quickly, once they get down to business . I've had them act like nothing out of the ordinary was about to happen and litterly "pop" out puppies like terds, look back and go "hmm, what's that?". I let the mom take care of the cleaning, afterbirth, etc, but make sure if she's preoccupied with one puppy that she doesn't forget about cleaning the next ones. I watch until each puppy is out, then double check that the membranes are off it's head and it's breathing, then let mom take over cleaning and bonding. If the puppies come quickly one after the other and the mom is moving around alot, I rub damp puppies off with a hand towel and move them to a basket with a heating pad next to mom as she gets ready to have the next one. Laurie
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