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urge to herd

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  1. I've ordered the Duralactin and Cosequin, arriving by the weekend hopefully. I'm thinking it will be 3-4 weeks before I see a difference. Will keep you updated and thanks for the info! Ruth & Gibbs
  2. I too wouldn't medicate a dog, (or a human for that matter) until all other options have been explored, sorry I didn't make that clear. I've had useless conversations aplenty with people who would not even consider against anti-depressants/anti anxiety agents. For anything ever. I know from personal experience that medication can do much more harm than good if not prescribed and used appropriately. Once a medication such as those mentioned above is prescribed and is shown to be effective, it's usually given for life. Expense can be another issue, but as I recall the clomicalm that Shonie was on was inexpensive. Best of luck as you move forward with him! R&G
  3. "It sounds like a confident dog will be confident regardless of exposure or training tho so this is something that will get better with training but it is also who he is." Not necessarily. If he's more confident within a couple months, he might blossom into a new dog. You won't know until you get there. R&G
  4. My Gibbs is a 'washout' from working. He's also the offspring of high-winning working parents and spent his first year, (after being weaned) with Bill Berhow in TX, who does a lot of training of working dogs. He got sold on as a working dog to some friends of mine in CA. I got him because he wasn't really showing any interest in sheep. They kept him till they found a good home for him, which turned out to be me. What Journey says is absolutely right on. You may be able to help him be a calmer dog and a good pet, but I doubt he has working in his future. And FWIW Gibbs had to be housetrained. He was well-treated, but as a working dog prospect, not a pet, so he had some new stuff to learn. IF he continues to be 'squirrely' please consider using a medication for him. Give him at least a month to settle. If he's not calmer then talk to your vet. I had to be talk my vet into doing a trial run of the clomicalm, generic name clomiprimine. Even HE saw the difference in Shonie when I took her in a couple months later for something or other. She became much calmer, friendlier to people in general, and a lot easier to live with. Please let us know how you get on. R&G
  5. Not a herding dog trainer, here, BUT, when I took in Shoshone she was pretty much feral from being isolated and half starved. and god knows what else. The advice I got from experienced dog trainers was to treat her like an 8 week old pup, in terms of everything. Housebreaking, leash training, obedience, everything. To me it sounds like you've got a dog with no training at all. So you need to start with basics, house-breaking especially if you want him in the house with you. If he's crazed with fear at thunder/lightening, you might consider getting him a tranquilizer. I found that doggy prozac did nothing for Shoshone. Clomicalm, which is prescribed for dogs with separation anxiety, worked like gang busters. A few days into Shonie on Clomicalm and she was sitting in a friend's lap. There's no quick fix here. Start with the dog you have and work with what you've got. PS ~ I wouldn't get a dog from this 'breeder' again. I also wouldn't recommend anyone to her. Ruth & Gibbs
  6. I know I've tried glucosamine-chondroitin, and I don't think it made a difference. Haven't used the Cetyl-M or Duralactin. Where do I get it? R & G ETA ~ Gibbs says hi right back!
  7. Spoke with my vet about doxy for Gibbs, he reviewed G's records and we'd already tried it several years ago. No change. At this point I doubt there's anything that anyone can do about these issues except treat appropriately as they appear. And I sympathize with him. I've had several injuries to my right foot/ankle and I've got arthritis in several of those tiny little joints from the injuries. I wear a short brace that helps a lot. Still, if I step wrong or I'm on feet for a long time, it's painful. Perhaps G and I were meant to be together! R & G
  8. I'll try that with my veterinarian. Thx, Journey. R & G
  9. I haven't given him Doxy, I'd be surprised if I could make a case for it with any of my veterinarians. I have no idea where the other pups went. Gibbs, (he was Pete when I got him) went to a big hat in TX, (Amy Coapman might remember his name) at 6 or 7 weeks. He was then sold on as a started dog to Amy, can't remember how old he was when Amy got him, several months at least. I got him at around 2.5 because he wasn't showing much drive for working sheep. He makes a dang good pet, though! Amy gave me all this info when I got him, but it's gone from the memory banks now! Gibbs has been with me for at least 9 years, maybe 10. R & G
  10. Gibbs was born in CT, which has a high incidence of Lyme disease. After he and the other pups were weaned and sent off to new homes, the mom became ill and tested positive for Lyme. The new owners of the pups were told and when I took Gibbs at about 2 and a half yrs old, I was told that he is Lyme+. He's had no overt symptoms. EXCEPT ~ he has had a litany of skeletal issues ~ his neck, back, knees, and front legs have all sent him to the vet in pain. Every time it was diagnosed as a soft tissue injury, given pain and anti-inflammatory meds and orders to take it easy. G is the 5th dog I've had. None of the others have had anything like this number of problems, all having to do with his bones and joints. None of my dog-owning friends have had joint/bone issues to this extent either. I've also never had to have a dog's teeth removed. Last year he had 4 teeth removed. He's got another round of dental extractions to get through in about 5 weeks. I've brought this up with my vet and he said no. I've done some quick research and find that the Lyme bug can pass to puppies in utero, and he does test positive for it. Nothing about the affect of the bug on the gestating pups, except that it can kill pups in utero. Other than that, nada. What do you guys think? Ruth & Gibbs
  11. As far as 'jobs', for a non working border collie a job can be anything. Silly tricks, obedience, agility, nose work, etc. If you google 'things to do with your dog' you'll find there are several lists of tricks you can teach your dog. My experiences with this breed (I've got my 4th border collie) tells me that a border collie needs to be in a partnership of 'work' with their human. For pet bc, 'work' can be anything. I've seen youtube videos of b collies picking up laundry and putting it in a laundry basket. Or collecting their toys into a pile, etc. I believe that your dog wants to do something WITH you, whatever that something is. Good luck and let us know how you get on. Ruth & Gibbs
  12. 1) HOORAY! for your good news 2) There is no hummus available at my house for any dog. I love the stuff too much to share it. 3) If you're in the U.S., anywhere near a tick-loving habitat, have him checked for Lyme disease. Glad you found an answer. R & G
  13. I'm a go slow and frequently sort of person with these issues. I've read about using a basket muzzle, (you'll have to look it up on the Internet) and putting peanut butter or a bit of canned dog food at the closed end of the muzzle. Evidently a lot of dogs who hate muzzles are just fine with a muzzle with food in it. Get started with that, first. Once he's fine with the basket muzzle, you can start scratching his neck, rubbing his head, etc. Get him used to that. Pull his fur gently. That might desensitize him and maybe even a bit faster. If he were my dog, I'd be petting/scratching him all over, just for a minute, maybe a couple times a day. Maybe look into some dog massage techniques on YouTube. Once he's used to the basket muzzle with food into, work on getting closer to that tick bite. Again, slowly. Good luck! Ruth & Gibbs
  14. You didn't mention barking at all in your post. My apologies. R & G
  15. Being an 'always look at the dark side' person, I'd also be concerned 1) that the bike rider could be startled by your yelling at them and/or your dog barking at them. Being startled on a bike can lead to collisions, etc. You could be held liable for any damages that might occur, particularly since this is something that the dog has done repeatedly. 2) That your dog might escalate in his over-the-top response to bikes at a distance. 3) It's not good for your dog to learn that he can chase/bark at bikes AT ALL. There might be situations where he can't hear you. He might start chasing other moving things, like people running. Border collies are a breed that has some quirks. Escalating behavior is common. 3) Some people are afraid of dogs, some people don't like dogs and won't be kind to your dog if he barks at them. 4) If you haven't already check leash laws in your area. If there's any regulation that dogs must be leashed along public trails, you could face a penalty. Anyone who has seen/heard your dog running and barking might report you. Ruth & Gibbs
  16. Send the boys for an 'overnight' at least a couple times before you go. That way the 1 yr old will be used to sleeping at the farm. Ruth & Gibbs
  17. AS D'Elle said, work on the recall in very boring situations. Recall in the house, then in boring spots outside the house. Veeery slowly add in distractions. You might have your partner walk by, then you cue recall. Make sure you use the same cue every time. When you take him outside, try to make it a quieter time of day. Make sure your partner works on this, as well. Reward him Every Single Time he obeys this cue during this phase. Make it a Really Great Treat. Put the frisbee out of his sight. It's a toy, and toys come out for play. The training you need for him is not play, it's very serious. Toys also go away when they're not being used. Once you've got that really solid recall with no distractions, (people, birds, etc) then add in one of the smallest distractions. A human or chicken or whathaveyou at a distance. As Oden gets the message that Come ALWAYS Means Come, slowly increase the distraction(s). It takes time, be patient with yourself and your dog. Good luck! Ruth & Gibbs
  18. Samantha was my first border collie and that girl LOVED water. Puddles, streams, ponds ~ she gloried in getting wet, unless it was a bath. I took her to the beach a few times, but she got too focused on 'catching' the waves. So no ocean after that. My other 2 previous bc and the current one? All sure they're being slowly and painfully murdered. Ruth & Gibbs
  19. If he's eating and drinking normally, not limping, walking/running normally, responding to you normally, eliminating normally, that checks all the boxes for Not Sick Or Injured. If he starts doing any of the things I mention above look into it. He may simply be maturing ~ 2ish is around the time for some dogs. Or he might have worn himself out and is just taking a break. If you're doing any training, keep at it but train for less time and maybe skip the more physical things you might be training for. Let us know what happens. Ruth & Gibbs
  20. What Journey said^^^ There's something called vestibular disease, which causes dizziness and can cause the eyes to move back and forth rapidly. It usually goes away on it's own within a few days and rarely repeats. My Shoshone was one of the repeaters. Get to a veterinarian and see what he says. At a minimum your dog is probably stressed from not seeing the world clearly. And it's exhausting, I've had a couple episodes of longer lasting dizziness and it's nasty. Let us know what you find out, and I second the request from Journey ~ PIX! Ruth & Gibbs
  21. Thanks for the update! Sounds like things are going very well Ruth & Gibbs
  22. Yes, my first bc wore her pads to shreds. I think I played fetch with her on an asphalt surface. Very Stupid Human. My vet, after a couple visits, said to me, "If you don't let her pads heal fully, they won't." His advice was to limit her walking to outside to relieve herself and not much more. It took a while, can't remember how long, but we were very happy when she could walk without limping. I did try some kind of wrap and it didn't speed healing time at all, and she hated the wrap. I would have had to use a cone over her head to keep her from licking at the wrap. Without the wrap she didn't bother her paws much at all. I did a fair amount of gentle grooming with her, and was able to teach her some silly tricks she could do while laying down. Visits to the yard were brief and on leash. If I were you, I'd get those pads healed and in the meantime, get him used to the wraps, so that you can use them next winter. Or look into booties. Good luck! Ruth & Gibbs
  23. Respectfully disagree with Journey about playing ball with your BC. I've always done it, and I've got my 4th bc right now. The Very Important Key to successful use of a ball for fetch or soccer is that the ball belongs to the Human in the equation. That means the Human decides when and for how long ball play goes on. It was never an issue for me, not even when I had 3 dogs at the same time. I simply assumed that I was in charge of everything. I did start out with one very sweet natured and already an adult bc, and she was fine with stopping the fetch game whenever I wanted to stop. She may have influenced the others as they came along. Truly, though, it was never a problem. I also have never left balls out available to my dogs. I always provide the ball and it always gets put away when I'm done. Be aware that your dog may need to take breaks from fetch in case of injury or illness. Or you might need to kennel him for a while and they usually don't play fetch at a kennel. Ironically, my current guy has a bad knee. He slipped badly on a muddy, slippery path several years ago and there went his left knee. No fetch for him. So you're in charge of the ball, not the dog. It boils down to that. Ruth & Gibbs
  24. Here's the advice I've been given when I had these issues, so here's what I was told. Set a time for how long YOU want to be out there walking around with her. Don't let her behavior be the thing that stops the walk OR keeps the walk going. If by chance she gets over stimulated before the time limit you've set you should of course take her home, 'jolly talking' quietly and calmly the whole while. "In this park, boiled chicken, salmon treats, ball on string, none of them can get her attention back until she's tired herself out." You are training her to become aroused until she's exhausted. I say 'training' because you're giving her high value treats right after she's been bouncing around for however long she wants to. The human in the equation needs to set limits. This is an issue of consistency, rewarding her when she does what you want her to do. If you want to keep her on leash and watch from a distance, rewarding when she sits or lays quietly, that's fine. You can also walk some zig zags, so that you go closer, then mover further away, several times. Use this type of activity to remind her to be calm. You'll be glad you did this when you have a bad cold or the flu. You won't have to wait in the cold and/or rain while until your dog decides she's ready to go home. Been there, done that. No fun for humans! Ruth & Gibbs
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