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Everything posted by Mana19

  1. My dog is similar to a lot of people above, she does both. But she started out only eating standing up. I believe in my case it's a symptom of the dog eating slower. I've been actively using bowls that encourage slower eating because of the risk associated with eating too fast (turning of stomach which could lead to death), my BC used to eat a bowl of food in less than 30 seconds, switching to a specially designed bowl that challenges them and forces them to eat slower helped that a lot. She now takes around 4 minutes to eat her food. She doesn't tend to stand up too long as the bowl is near her bed in her den, because of how long it takes she is quite happy to just lay comfy and eat it.
  2. I have experienced a similar thing with my BC. She's great with 99% of dogs but there is often that 1 random dog she doesn't get on with. I am always conscious to observe her body language, if I see her tail going low and tucking, ears folded all the way back and any lip licking the dog is communicating anxiety. I pull back and do not approach or allow the approach of the other dog. Likewise for the other dog. If she has a raised happy tail, relaxed ears and shows no signs of anxiety through licking I will allow her to approach and greet the other dog. From what I've read, BCs can be a bit picky with which dogs they get on with because of things like play styles etc. Mine tends to love most dogs except for the odd intimidating bigger dog (German Shepherd for example). My dog gets on great with higher energy breeds like BCs, Cocker Spaniels, Beagles etc but doesn't get on too well with dogs that are around twice her size.
  3. Interesting indeed. I can definitely vouch for their ability to remember the names and locations of things. I didn't put any effort into teaching my BC which toy was which by name. If I point at something and say fetch or bring it and use the name of the object, she always remembers the second time I ask, without pointing or indication. They are amazing at retrieval. I often get my BC to do quick favours for me, like grab my shoes, newspaper/mail, a particular toy, bag of treats, you name it. This is why I've fallen in love with this breed. They are so intuitive it's seriously impressive. I was de-weeding my garden not so long ago and out of the blue my BC started targeting the weeds specifically and helped me pull them out, just by observing me. She also knew the difference between grass, flowers and that weed specifically. Amazing dogs for sure.
  4. I can't speak for others but my BC who is now 2 years old had effectively two periods of "rebellious behaviour" similar to what you describe, at the 4-6 months and just before her 1st birthday (which coincided with her first heat). At the time I felt like she was just testing the boundaries, it was up to me set the appropriate restrictions and provide the right incentives and environment for her to succeed. Although, chewing stopped being an issue after about 6 months, I spent a lot of time using positive reinforcement and redirection and over time we got there. From my own experience there were plenty of days were it seemed like she regressed, but do not worry. Stick to your training, be consistent and you will get there. With my dog even to this day there are just light bulb moments where suddenly all that training clicks. You can never really predict it but if you stick to it you can get there with every problem behaviour you try to solve.
  5. I think a lot of the points here are excellent, especially those highlighting the fact you have in influenced this behaviour by giving your dog too much activity in a day. In my opinion they have become accustomed to a high intensity schedule so now expect it. Adult dogs sleep about 17 hours a day. If your dog does not get sufficient rest they will become overtired, agitated and restless. I believe it's not impossible to modify your dogs behaviour but the approach is all wrong. You effectively need to teach your dog how to relax, properly settle. It needs to become part of your routine so the dog can get used to it and over time adapt. Sometimes its things as little as giving them their own space, away from noise and disturbances so they can properly rest. My BC is very active and a very high energy dog, but because I work from home Infront of a laptop I've made it a priority to teach her how to act at home Vs when we are outside playing. She sleeps for most of the day and when awake is happy to just chill around the house knowing when we go outside she can go nuts. I couldn't ask for a more calm BC indoors and she's only 2. I honestly think it's down to tempering their behaviour so they can acquire the skill of calm relaxation. It makes for a happier dog who is calm and confident. My dog is not reactive because of this training. If you put the time and effort into patiently training the behaviour you want, you will get there.
  6. That's a great story to hear, your dogs sound fantastic. I've heard a lot that with adding a second dog to the home, it is generally bad to get the same sex. Has anyone here dealt with issues around same-sex dominance when for example, bringing a second female BC into the mix?
  7. That's interesting, from what I understand it can go either way with any mix of age. I think it's dependant on the two individual dogs personalities and with new dogs its basically a guessing game on what their personality is like until they settle in. I could say with optimism I believe my BC would adapt well, she is very friendly and loves to play with other dogs. She hasn't resource guarded toys/food when meeting other dogs in the past (I've spent a lot of time trying to prevent this sort of stuff with positive reinforcement), even when meeting new dogs she will often take her ball to the other dog to get them to play. But still you never know I guess. I have noticed when she meets BCs in particular she tends to act differently than with other dogs. She's usually less cautious and very excited to greet them.
  8. Hi folks. I was wondering if this is a thing for other people too. It's been over 2 years since I got my bc pup and I'm sure many of you can attest from their own experiences, it's certainly not a walk in the park Vs the average dog breed. Looking back on those 2 years and I have to admit despite how hard the breed can be, they are something special. Despite the absolute lunacy of the idea of rescuing another BC is, I'm currently battling the urge as I met a lovely 5 month old BC pup who was part of a rescue/kennel walk near my house. I felt terrible for her and have since had a very strong urge to rescue her despite all the obvious challenges. Have you encountered these urges? If so, how did you react in this kind of situation?
  9. I do agree with a lot you have to say but all of the issues you describe around fetch are resolved through better handling. When I play fetch with my border I avoid sudden sharp rotations, stop/start motions and other things that cause the strain which leads to damage. It's definitely not a mindless game when we play it. We train positioning commands, obedience, fun tricks and fetch is the currency. I introduce short breaks often where you combine it with stay training, leave it, speak etc. We never go too long and she definitely is not even remotely obsessed with it. It's a high value reward because I spent ages building value into the toys by playing tug etc. If you are smart and measured fetch is perfect for a daily exercise. The science doesn't really back all these claims that 'they weren't built for this'. My dog has been doing it for years and the veterinarian reports she couldn't be in better health and I am not over doing it. It's absurd, you can take any dog bred for running especially and get the same results if you place too much strain on their physiology. It's not a breed thing, it's physics. You have to be wise and creative.
  10. Have you actually crate trained him? You need to build tons of value around the crate, my border initially hated the crate but with consistent rewarding, toys, chews etc, things to keep them occupied like kongs within a few months she loved the crate. I never hear a peep and I've had a camera on it when I go out and she's completely relaxed. She has one in each room and will happily choose to go sit in her crate with the door open vs sitting on the carpet. The same for external stimuli, whenever I took my dog out and a dog barked, came nearby etc. I asked her to sit and rewarded her. After enough repetition I've now got a dog that is non-reactive and will sit calmly even when another dog comes by. Also I've found with exercise it's more important what you get up to during that exercise. If what you consider as exercise is 2-3 hours of walks a day it's not enough. I highly recommend teaching fetch and making it your go to daily exercise. At this age you don't want to push too hard but a good 20-30mins in the morning and your dog will be tired and satiated. A lot more than a 2 hour walk could achieve. Exercising that brain is one of the most important things so getting them to think for themselves and make good decisions is the key.
  11. Reading this post I was literally about to write the whole wait it out thing. My Border reached 2 years old recently and I went through the same stages with her. Around 6 months in she just clicked, went from crazy to completely chill, don't get me wrong; she's still a Border so when the games on she gives it 100%, but I've found through my own experience of puppydom that there are many of these lightbulb moments, where suddenly all your hard work pays off and then just switch on. It's one of the joys of bringing up a puppy in my opinion, watching their growth and maturity. Now my puppy has reached adulthood and I see an affectionate, chilled but incredibly fast, strong and intelligent dog. You'll get there, just be consistent and keep doing as you're doing.
  12. I can't recommend Rabbit Ears enough. They are around 14 calories and become the go to treat for my dog. If you get ones with fur on they are natural dewormer and help clean out the dogs digestive system too! The contents are good nutritionally as it's a lot of protein like collagen etc, the dog loves it as it's very chewy but no risk whatsoever to the dog vs a bone which can snap and splinter. My local pet shop sells a big bag for around 16 dollars and it lasts 6 months easily.
  13. My Border is definitely a sort of velcro dog. But she is perfectly happy and sometimes actually prefers her own space. A lot of the time she loves to lean up next to me or sit next to me but if she wants to chill out and sleep she is not happy about noise so will go off to her crate.
  14. If your dog is this reactive it needs to be trained more. I would revoke any freedom of a leash at this point. It is certainly preferable than killing the dog! Take it to a kennel or seek adoption with someone who can handle and train it out.
  15. Hi Rosalee Have you taught your Border the speak command? If you have that in the bag quiet is suddenly a lot easier to teach (sometimes happens at the same time). I would use this quiet command along with actually sitting outside, near the fence with your dog for an hour or so, giving plenty of opportunity for usual triggers to pop up (Trains, people, dogs etc) and you need to anticipate just before the point where your dog is about to react, use the quiet and/or settle command, instantly rewarding with a high value treat (like turkey/chicken or cheese). You need to repeat this a few times depending on your dog but it will eventually kick in if you're consistent. My Border has just hit 2 and is calm and sits still whenever we are outside and a dog or person comes by. The most she will do is look at them and wag her tail. She is also the quietest dog on the street and never barks unless I ask her to speak or she's feeling a bit cheeky during playtime. The only reason I could get to that point was because I've spent lots of time reinforcing good behaviour targeted in instances like the one you describe above. I hope some of this helps!
  16. Hi All Thank you for the helpful responses. Apologies for any inaccuracies with terminology I am not too versed in dog biology. When using the above diagram I'd say confidently my dog has the purple boxed traits: I think what confuses me is she definitely has an abdominal tuck that rises above the rib cage and you can easily feel the ribs under slight fat cover. The only point I'd say she doesn't match this diagram on is the top view of the waist, where she isn't quite as thin as the Ideal diagram and is closer to the overweight top down view. In honesty I think I do perhaps give her too many calories in a single day so I've reduced her daily intake as well as made a conscious effort to work her harder during our fetch/running sessions. Her original daily feeding schedule: 800g of wet dog food (Approx 800 calories) 1x Rabbit ear (Unknown calories) 1x Dental Stick (Approx 232 calories) Approx 320 calories of treats whilst training When looking at recommendations for a 40lb female border collie guides I've seen say go for about 1110 calories to maintain a healthy weight. So I think this will be my goal, reduce her calorie intake from 1352 to around 1110, push harder whilst exercising and I think this will help. Thank you for your tips and experience. If you have any tips regarding alternative types of food that might help in this endeavour that would be really helpful. She used to feed off dry food but got bored of it and would play with it/not finish it hence why I give her wet food. I am from the UK if that's worth mentioning. |UPDATE OCT 21| So since I adjusted the diet to remove all those excess fatty treats and chose to rely on natural ones we've seen a huge improvement. The vet is perfectly happy with her weight and shape albeit she has actually grown to fully maturity since the first post. She is now slightly taller and longer, her weight has stabilised at a healthy level so I can't recommend things like Rabbit Ears enough!
  17. Hi I have a 16 month old Border Collie female. She is from working stock. I have been advised in the past by vets as well as read online that the way to tell if a Border Collie is overweight is by the following points: - When looking up do they have a dip at the waist or is it flat? - When looking at the belly, is there a visible dip upwards or is it straight? - When you press your fingers lightly against the sides can you feel the rib cage? My dog ticks all of these boxes, from above she has a clear dip inwards at the waist, her belly has a prominent dip, when I run my fingers across her sides I can feel her ribs with hardly any pressure. With all that said, I was today advised by the vet that because she weighs 20kg she is overweight. I am trying to ascertain whether I am being too generous with treats and/or not providing enough exercise that is causing her to be heavier than the average female of this age and breed. When I looked at a weight chart she is exactly the weight of the average male for her age. So to clarify, her weight is 20kg, she is 18" tall from the spine. I exercise her daily, she has 2 hour long walks and an hour of fetch with a frisbee or ball. She is quite lean, with prominent and dense muscles all up her legs and upper body. Is the vet correct and is my dog overweight despite having traits that typically indicate a healthy body to fat ratio? I've read posts of people who have a bigger than average border and I was wondering if it is possible that her particular genetics might mean she is just a bigger than average Border and she is in fact healthy?
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