Jump to content
BC Boards

D'Elle

Registered Users
  • Posts

    3,234
  • Joined

Everything posted by D'Elle

  1. I like my vet's attitude toward aging in animals. she says that no dog slows down or has problems because of old age, there is always something causing the problem that is specific. So, her approach is to find out what that is and then treat it if possible. I like that because it doesn't assume anything the way some people, do saying, "oh she's just getting old" instead of finding out what the problem really is . I always take my dogs, no matter the age, to the vet if they start to have any kind of problem that lasts more than a couple of days or if I don't now what it is or how to treat it myself. My male, on the left in my avatar photo, lived to 16, or so I think - I never knew his exact age. And the girl on the left, Kit, lived to be 17. They both had various problems as they got older, but still enjoyed their lives up to the end.
  2. Oh what a cutie. It sounds to me as if you have a good plan. Best of luck.
  3. Just coming in to say that I wish you and Tucker all the best, and very much hope that you do not reach the point of thinking you need to put him down. I hope you find a way, with a good behaviorist, to help him get past this so you can have his companionship for years to come. And, to put in a plug for positive reinforcement behavior modification. In a case like this I would recommend staying away from anything like an e-collar (even if it is on vibrate) or any other aversive correction. I think there's a lot of evidence that using those methods more often than not do not work as well as positive reinforcement does.
  4. So sorry to hear this, Geonni.
  5. Oh, I guess a few reasons..... because they are wheat and not much else, and so not really the most healthy things in quantity. And, they take a couple of seconds to chew up. What I am training is often something that needs very quick treats, something the dog doesn't have to chew, so I tend to use soft things by preference. I don't want my dog to lose focus or stop moving while consuming the treat. Also, most dogs don't exactly go nuts for them, so they are a low-value treat. I wonder if small carrot pieces would still be a problem? I always make all of my treats as small as possible, because I give lots and lots of them when I am training a new behavior.
  6. Mostly I recommend pieces of carrot. Or any other vege that the dog likes. But you can use Charlee Bears occasionally as well...one calorie each I think.
  7. If it were my dog I would just figure that more work is needed. She's basically still a child. And, her first heat is a new thing for her and may very well be exacerbating her behavior. but in general, I find that it takes somewhere around two years to get a dog to where I really want him or her to be and be reliable in that. The first year is just learning everything, the second is fine tuning. Continuing impulse control work is key.
  8. Glad to hear he is better! Of course sedation like that is a last resort, but it sounds as if last resorts are required in Tucker's case. Really glad you could get him treatment.
  9. D'Elle

    Dean Dog

    I'm so sorry, Root Beer. I would have responded earlier, but have been on vacation. I know that it's always very hard to let such a good dog go. I still miss my good border collies every day. Your Dean was a beautiful dog and knew, I am sure, that he was loved.
  10. Thanks very much for posting this. There are many people who disbelieve this and feed grain-free diets. Personally, I would rather err on the side of caution so I feed dog foods that include grains.
  11. Other grain-inclusive foods that I have fed my dogs with good results are Simply Nourish (which is a Petsmart brand) and Wellness. Make sure it is not Simply Nourish Source, which is grain free. I always read ingredients. some of the companies that make mostly grain-free also make one kind that includes grain, but you have to look for it these days. I will be really glad when this "grain free" fad is over.
  12. Thanks, allingande. I will definitely look into that, plus the modification you made. I wish I had time to do it before leaving Monday for a long road trip, but will look into it when I get back again. I have abandoned the use of travel harnesses, because I felt they were not necessarily that safe, and on a two or three day road trip with 10 hours of driving each day, it seems imperative to me that my dogs get to move around. We stop every two hours to get out and stretch for 5 minutes, and they have the whole back seat plus the foot well which I build up with luggage so that they get that extra 4" or so, but it's still not much room. They like to change positions, get close to each other, get far apart, and so on. The modification you talk about should work well.
  13. Thanks, alligande! I will look into those. I have never been happy with the travel harnesses I have used and these days don't use them at all, as they are clearly uncomfortable for the dogs and don't look to me as if they'd do much good if there were a real crash.
  14. alligande, would you give the name and brand of the crash-tested harness you use? I have been seeking one. Thanks!
  15. I enjoyed watching this, both the beautiful dog and also the handler and what he did, and hope you keep us posted on how he does as you continue his training. Some day I would like to be able to take a BC to do some sheep training. I took Jester for testing one time, and even that was great fun, and he did very well. but I was not able to continue with it as I would like to. Maybe with my next BC. Just for fun, of course, but it would be fun.
  16. Isn't it fun to watch them have their first experiences with something good? The slight hesitation at first, checking it out, and then the full enjoyment of it. I have always loved this with dogs, but with border collies it's the best, because they are so intelligent and entertaining and enthusiastic about everything. :-)
  17. Excellent to hear this. I use a clicker in training, for the reasons you have learned. And I am convinced it makes learning much faster and more precise. I noticed the difference right away when I was first using it, and have never looked back.
  18. Very good news, and thanks for the update. These dogs are remarkable, aren't they.
  19. What do you mean he enormously hates you giving him space? What have you done to address the growling? And, are you aware that a dog shouldn't ever be punished or corrected for growling. and the reasons for that? Some dogs hate to be "messed with". If your dog is like that, one solution is to have another person help, and they manage the head while you deal with getting the burr out, or whatever. "Managing the head" doesn't mean holding it, but giving treats in rapid succession (tiny bits) to keep the dog's focus elsewhere. If a dog is in pain, that is a different matter, and although you can try the treats, it's unlikely to work. If you have a dog who really hates to be handled in that way, take him to a competent vet when he is in pain. Which is probably what needs to happen anyway, most of the time if pain is involved.
  20. Yes, I do off leash training. And have had dogs who were excellent when off leash. So this not something I "don't do" . This is not an opinion about something I know nothing about, and your statement that it is, is making a huge assumption about someone you don't know anything about. Your comment seemed to advocate for allowing the dog to go off leash, which if it is in an area with cyclists, is not a good idea, and that is what I commented on. I did not have any questions. I did not "hijack" the thread, but was commenting specifically on the topic the OP started the thread with, and replying to your advice on it which, unless I misunderstood it, advocated for letting the dog off leash. I disagree, and said so. And I was not the only one who suggested that letting the dog off leash was not a good idea. There is nothing in my post that could be called "negativity", although your reply to me could possibly be called that. And your post above has nothing to do with the thread topic, but was rather a negative comment on my post, so is is more along the lines of "hijacking". Let us not continue this conversation, as it adds nothing to the information that the OP is seeking.
  21. First, you have not given the method being used enough time. The thing with training a dog is you pick only one method, a good one recommended by people who know what they are doing - and then you simply stick to it and never stop, no matter how long it takes the dog to learn the new behavior. The fact that it takes a long time doesn't mean it doesn't work. It just means it's taking longer to get that dog to learn that particular thing. So, try this. And keep doing it. And do it 100% consistently, and never ever let the dog pull on the leash without doing this. Anyone else who walks the dog has to agree to this also because if one person lets her pull she will not learn not to pull. The dog pulls, and not only do you stop walking, but you turn around and walk in the other direction until the dog is up next to you, whereupon you ask the dog to sit. You count to 5 while the dog is sitting, and then start walking again. Dog pulls - repeat. Repeat. Repeat. And if it takes 6 months, you keep doing it for 6 months. The idea is this: as long as the dog is not pulling, she gets to go over here or there, sniff whatever she likes for as long as she wants to, but if she pulls all the fun stops and she has to sit and wait before starting again. The dog learns (however long it takes) that pulling never, ever results in getting anywhere, but walking nicely does. The click when in heel position is fine for heel training. But doesn't apply to leash pulling, as you have found. And the person who told you to try it for a month was wrong. You don't stop after a month. As for calming her down outside, if she knows down, you can try putting her into a down and asking her to hold it for 5 seconds every time she gets overexcited. And also, you need to be aware of the triggers that make the dog so excited, so that you can ask for the Down before she goes overboard, because it's hard to get through to the dog who is already excited.
  22. Just my opinion---- If your vet is that scared of your dog even if the dog has a muzzle on, then you need a new vet. A good vet is confident to handle most animals, and will not be afraid of a dog just because it growled, and certainly will not refuse to touch the dog even when it is muzzled! I don't think much of your vet.
×
×
  • Create New...