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About D'Elle

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    Tucson AZ

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  1. Agree with the above. I wouldn't let that much hard play-fighting go on, and most certainly not in the house. Keeping them on leash together and not allowing the rough play, while encouraging play with toys is a good idea. They probably don't know there's any other way to play and are in a rut with each other. Even if they are enjoying it the possibility for unintended injury would be too high for me.
  2. It can definitely be done. But I have to tell you that it took two years with that dog until all I had to do was count and she would consistently walk away at "three". And when I said "time out!" she'd trot herself up onto the porch and wait until I released her. I know 2 years is a long time. The dog was not lacking in intelligence, but I was training her to do something she really badly did not want to do. Lots of patience on my part and 100% consistency. Not saying it will take that long of course. Mileage will vary. But my philosophy is that however much time it takes, that time is go
  3. I wouldn't play this way either with 2 dogs. I had one dog, a male, who lived to fetch and got another dog, female, who adored the male from day one. she would run close behind him and bug him when he was fetching, and/or try to get there first to the ball or fiisbee. When she did she would stand over the toy and not let the male have it. My male was not the type to start a fight, but was clearly annoyed (who wouldn't be?) so he and I put an end to it. He trained the female not to run close behind him by turning and snarling at her, and she learned to back off, although she still chased h
  4. I agree to the above, and meant to include it in my post. I always spend some of the training time calling the dog to me, then giving a treat and praise, and immediately releasing him or her to go play again. That makes coming to me a win-win for the dog, something you always want to strive for in training. I still do it with my older dogs who are fully trained, just to reinforce that coming when called is almost always a positive thing. And if my intention is the Dreaded Bath And Grooming, I go get them, not call them.
  5. Any time that he is snoozing nicely on the sofa is not time he needs to be crated or in the Xpen. I would reward that calm time on the with letting him just be there. You don't have to use the crate arbitrarily. After all, the end result you desire is to have a dog who knows how to chill out with you when you cannot be doing something with him. I am glad you are going to start getting him used to your being gone from the house. I am afraid that many people who got a dog when they were working from home during the pandemic will not realize this, and will just go back to work leaving the d
  6. You have received excellent advice. I agree that you have not necessarily poisoned the cue, but starting over with a word different from "come" could be helpful. Now, about the flexi lead. If what you mean is one of those retractable leads, I want to warn you that their use is quite dangerous for both you and the dog and I always recommend not to use that kind of leash. Reason being, it is not flat, it is a thin strong round cord, which allows it to coil up inside the handle. This cord, when accidentally wrapped around a dog's leg can (and has) actually amputate the leg. If it's your fin
  7. OK, that adds up to more like 3.25 hours, which is better, but still a lot. You can do less. I also realize that I added wrong originally and I should have said 4.25, not 5. If your trainer in the puppy class told you it was "essential" to let the pup off leash at a very young age, I strongly recommend getting a different trainer. This one doesn't know enough about dogs or training, either one, to be doing that job well. Enzhound is accurate in saying that the need for constant stimulation in a border collie is a "legend". It's not at all true. I think the reason that rumor has ci
  8. I second everything GVC-border says with regard to the training. I would add one thing. If it were my dog, and if she did not come when I tested her (maybe once a month ) off leash, I would end all the fun right then and take her straight home again. On leash of course. And make sure you go and get her. don't continue to call her if she is not coming. That only teaches her that it's OK to ignore you. Patience! At six months, this is normal behavior. And you are on track with your training. The teenage period may last until she is 1.5 or 2. but just continue with the training, persistent
  9. I suggest taking this dog to get a thorough check up at the vet. This could be a physical problem, like being unable to walk up the steps (if you have any) without pain, or not wanting to walk on the slippery floor (if you don't have carpet) or some other thing that you can't readily see. Make sure first that it is not something physical before doing anything else.
  10. Goat's horn. Never would have thought of that. Might be worth looking into. thanks!
  11. Probably you are giving him too much exercise/attention time. If I am not mistaken, your activity with him adds up to about 5 hours a day, and if that is the case it's way too much. Not that he doesn't like all that and not that he doesn't have the energy for it. But if you always give hours of attention to the puppy you will end up with an adult dog who thinks that he deserves and in fact has to get 5 hours of attention every day and could become a problem dog if he doesn't. Never allow him off leash until the recall is completely solid. At his age, it's not likely to be. Usually a pupp
  12. Sorry but I disagree. A five month old pup is still a child and you are expecting too much of her. Be patient! Don't try to put her learning on your own schedule. She will learn, but at her own pace and rushing it or using a whole lot of different techniques may backfire on you. And if strangers tend to indulge her, you will have to stop that from happening. I know it's not easy! You don't want to be rude or abrupt to a stranger or anyone else. But I have found that at times it is necessary. Training the dog to behave appropriately around other people is the most important thing, and ranks ab
  13. Diane, does a kong help with keeping teeth clean? mseaver, thanks for the clarification.
  14. If you are working on settle and LAT you are on absolutely the right track. I would advice changing the intensity. Stop entirely taking him to anywhere that you will come in close proximity to dogs. Work with him on the Settle and LAT when there is only one dog, at a distance from you, and reward heavily. If you have a friend with a dog, or someone from your class, who is willing to help, have them just walk their dog at a distance from you, with no one else around - maybe in a park. Do this over and over. Do this for a long time. Maybe daily for two months and during that time, never take h
  15. Have you had these problems for 12 and 8 years, respectively? If not, how long has it been going on? Put the dogs outside when you are about to leave. Preferably give them a stuffed kong each or something like that which may distract them. Your wife can bring them in as soon as you are gone. You say they never bark except when you are leaving, but then you say they bark when you are intimate with your wife, so that's a little confusing. I had the same problem one time with a dog barking when I was intimate with a partner. I put the dog out of the room and ignored the barking. Ev
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