Jump to content
BC Boards

D'Elle

Registered Users
  • Posts

    3,257
  • Joined

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Tucson AZ

Recent Profile Visitors

4,675 profile views

D'Elle's Achievements

  1. I know I am coming in a bit late here, but just want to say that KIKOPUP has some very good training videos on YouTube that deal with on-leash reactivity and also reactivity in general. I highly recommend her. The videos are clear, concise, include demonstration, and she doesn't ever waste your time with chatter or promotion, but gets right to the point.
  2. Another vote for good quality leather leashes, which will last if, as has been noted, a puppy doesn't chew them and, I will add, if you put leather conditioner on them now and then the same as y ou would for a good pair of leather boots. A fellow dog person I know swears by her neoprene leashes, which do look very good quality, but I personally prefer the leather as they are more supple,. I go for narrow ones, because the wider ones do not allow me to feel the movement of the dog as well. Suzanne Clothier sells excellent leather leashes on her website. Expensive, but will last forever if cared for well.
  3. Thanks, Ruth. I agree that it is a real shame this dog is not getting the chance to at least try medication and see how it goes. Whenever I give the dog a Kong and she settles down, it looks clearly to me as if she is relieved not to "have" to be frantic and trying to get to the cat, because she has been given something else to do. From this, and other things I have observed, it seems clear to me that the medication would give the dog the room and the peace in her mind that she needs in order to be the Good Dog she obviously wants to be. I will try your suggestion on behavioral modification, if the owner agrees, and also keep working very gently to encourage her to try the medication. And thanks for the recommendation on which medication to try - I have passed this along to my friend.
  4. Unfortunately, the owner is very reluctant to do medication. I don't actually know why. I have told her of the experience with others and their over-reactive dogs, especially border collies, and my own experience with severe anxiety in the past, and what a relief and world-changer it was for me when I started taking medication. But still there is resistance to it. I really think it's the right thing but of course this is not my dog and I am not going to push it. Does anyone have behavioral training suggestions to offer? I have used all of them that I know, and while the situation with the dog and the cat is getting better, it is not good.
  5. Thanks. Yes, my friend is completely dedicated to the dog. She is really a very nice dog and very interesting and her problems are not her fault. I like this dog very much and find her fascinating in many ways. She is so very intelligent and expressive. My friend has a good deal of compassion for her, as do I. You can see the struggle going on in the dog - trying so hard to be a good dog. As for me, I always try to help dogs, any dogs, whenever I can because it's my passion to help dogs live better lives. I will recommend the medication to my friend.
  6. This may be a bit long, so I apologize in advance I have a good friend who has a female border collie. I don't know her age but would guess 6 or so. The dog came from rescue, was picked up by animal control in El Paso at around the age of two, and had by evidence of her behavior and on her body been living on her own in the desert for some time, probably over a year. She is amazing - has been known to leap into the air and snag a prickly pear fruit off the cactus and swallow it without getting any spines in her body in the process. This dog is very interesting. She is very excitable and reactive but never in an aggressive way. She has fear reactivity toward unknown dogs (long story, but reasons for that) which her owner and I are working on. She is now best friends with my dogs. She is a dog who very clearly tries hard to be good, to be calm, to be friendly, and to do as she is asked, but at times her over-excitement takes over. You can see the struggle within her, and often I really feel for this dog because she's such a good dog and yet is overcome with her emotional reactions so often. I like this dog very much and have been helping with some training, using only positive reinforcement. She learns well and is very smart, but continues to be overly reactive and hyper. She is never left along for more than a few hours, gets a lot of attention, gets two long walks a day, but cannot be let off leash unless she is at home, and cannot do dog sports because of her dog reactivity. The dog has also spent time with a qualified behaviorist who did assist in some ways when the dog was first adopted. Here's where I need advice. My friend and her dog come to my house to visit. I have a cat, and we are having trouble getting the dog to settle down in the presence of the cat. Even if she cannot see the cat (he of course stays behind the couch) she will bark constantly or whine, or run around looking for the cat. My cat is annoyed but has lived with dogs and had foster dogs come and go all his life and is not afraid or upset, just staying out of the way. The dog doesn't want to hurt the cat, and this is clear. But she is upset that the cat will not come out so she can (what? chase? play? interact in some way that the cat would probably not want). sometimes the dog sits and barks at length at me, as if she is demanding I bring out the cat. I have been working with her on a "settle", but she doesn't settle at all well here, although she is completely calm at home. If given something like a chew or a frozen Kong, she will happily settle down with that, with only occasional leaps to bark or search, so at this time we are keeping her on leash and giving her something to occupy her when she comes here. But I would like to get beyond that, so that my cat doesn't need to hide when the dog comes over. The dog always comes with my friend because we go dog walking together. I am out of ideas and am in need of ideas on what to try next. I am not a person who thinks medication is a solution most of the time, but I feel after knowing this dog a year that it really would help her, just by giving her a bit more ability to calm down, like a hyperactive child. Her owner is considering it. But does anyone have a behavioral/training suggestion on this situation? thanks.
  7. I don't do agility, although I have done some in the past, but I do participate in Musical Canine Freestyle and perform in public with that. Among my group of Freestylers, we all use different cue words as suits us, although some of them are standard for a certain move, or are obedience terms, and most of us use them. I have found that the most important thing is that I easily remember the cue word, and that it not sound at all like anything else. Even though I never intended to train my dogs on sheep, I wouldn't ever use a cue that is traditionally used for that, like "come bye". I say "curtsey" instead of "bow", which sounds like "down", even though my down cue is always "lie down". I sometimes will make up a word for a move. It can be anything, a random sound, just as long as it makes enough sense to me that I will remember it from the start, without fail. Sometimes I will take a string of words that would describe the move I want, and shorten them into one two-syllable word and use that. Personally, I won't use a cue word that someone tells me to use in a class or a workshop unless it is the one I already use, or is not going to conflict with one I already use. I want to respect the teacher, but not to the degree that I confuse my dog, or use something that I know will be hard to remember or that I simply don't like. I think cue words are sometimes very personal and have to fit you, your dog, and what you are doing, as well as fit in with other sports or activities your dog does.
  8. I remember seeing a video of Patrick Shanahan's first place winning run with Riggs (pretty sure it was Riggs) at the National Championship Trial in 2010 (again, I am pretty sure of the year, not certain), and thinking it was the most magnificent example I'd seen of border collie stock work at a trial. There was a short interview with Mr. Shanahan at the end of the run, and he expressed how glad he was that Riggs got to show her skills. I was telling a friend about it recently but cannot find it to show to her. Anyone know how I can find that video? thanks.
  9. I really like the training techniques that KIKOPUP has on YouTube. She has done three or four of them on barking, and here is one:
  10. A friend was telling me today about the working border collies she saw when she was walking the Camino in Spain. She said that she often saw a team of dogs, 3 or 4, working a large herd of sheep. One dog would go out in front of the sheep, and criss-cross the field ahead of them, sniffing the ground, looking all around. She said it seemed that the dog in front was checking the area for any dangers. I am not familiar with this, and wonder if anyone here can shed light on this for me. Does that out-in-front dog have a specific position name in the group of dogs in that situation, and is this something common only in Spain or is it seem in other parts of the world? What is the job of that front ranging dog?
  11. Crating is one possibility, although I personally would try other things first, I think. Can you block off the windows? Maybe keep her shut in only one room, with water and toys and everything she needs. And then put furniture in front of the window so that she cannot get to it. Or fit some heavy metal screen like hardware cloth to the window and fasten it there when she is in that room so that she cannot get to the window glass. Brainstorm this and see what you come up with. Electric fences are a bad idea, in my opinion. And they really do not work very well, either. A dog who wants to get out will learn that the shock doesn't kill and it's over quickly and they will go through it anyway. But....they may not ever want to come back in again, because they may not think that coming back into the yard is worth the shock. I have known several people who put in "invisible fences" and lost their dogs as a result of trusting that.
  12. That is very interesting, and something I wouldn't have thought of. Let us know if that turns out to be the culprit. I would like to know. The other possibility is that she has something goin on that is a medical condition. I think if it doesn't turn out to be static electricity it would be advisable to have her checked at a vet to be sure.
  13. I agree with the above saying that this is not an issue you should try to change. Some dogs, especially border collies (in my experience) are just not friendly with all other dogs. My Jester had literally no interest in any other dog unless it was a border collie. He would ignore and give signals to other dogs to back off, and if they didn't listen to him he would snap, although I always got him away from the other dog if I could before it got to that point. With other border collies he was a bit more friendly but really he was a human-focused dog. Don't take your dog to dog parks at all. Personally, I hate dog parks and have never felt comfortable there. To me it's like if someone put me into a big cocktail party with a bunch of people I don't know, some of whom are drunk, some of whom are superduper overly friendly to me. I would want out of there fast. If your dog doesn't like socializing with other dogs, don't expect it of her. Let her be who she is.
  14. I tried to look it up as well but did not find anything on this person. I found various people with that name, some of whom has broken laws but don't know if that it the same person or not. It's not an uncommon name.
×
×
  • Create New...