Jump to content
BC Boards


Registered Users
  • Posts

  • Joined

Everything posted by Maxi

  1. Well..Tio is showing Juno what level of biting is unacceptable during dog-play. At points in the video,..it looks to me as if Tio is putting his mouth around your pup's muzzle and occasionally just after doing this he pulls back for a second. This is an adult dog's way of gently correcting a pup's over- enthusiasm... It's great that Juno has got such a good mentor in Tio
  2. I realised but decided to give your query 'careful' consideration anyway....I mean the guy had gone to the effort of spamming an old thread that had ended almost 4 years ago
  3. No it makes no sense...It just reminded me of similar snarled-up sentences that I used to see in some undergraduate essays. In those incidences it would arise from the individual 'cutting and pasting' from another text (often in an attempt to mask plagiarism) and not bothering to proof read afterwards. Either that or English is not his native language. Though these days, I do find that the way that my iPad auto 'corrects' my words can make the resultant sentence completely different from the text I entered. Take your pick
  4. great news. Hopefully any relapses will be few and far between.
  5. I completely agree with Eileen's post. You cannot predict how well a specific dog will turn out based on its pedigree alone nor from how it behaves around stock when it is a youngster. In addition, very few dogs, if any, are completely perfect in every regard. On top of that, it is not just about the dog, but about the partnership between handler and dog.- different dogs suit different handlers. . If you want to learn to do sheep-work with her, then your dog is already showing enough potential and instinct for both of you to take that journey. Just wait till she has grown up a bit so that she can cope with the pressure of training. As Eileen says, don't focus on her pedigree - Enjoy your dog for what she is
  6. He has a mild "normocytic, hypochromic" aneamia without any evidence of abnormal red cell breakdown or abnormal reticulocyte (immature red blood cell) production. These results are often associated with the 'anaemia of chronic disease'. They are NOT the results usually associated with vitamin B12/folate deficiency.
  7. fantasic.. sounds much more than a 'small' victory to me. Freyja must be starting to realise that she has found herself a great home and family to be part of.
  8. Well, I'm not even basing my comments on an actual dog, just on what I've read ..though in the example I gave ( EPI), it would seem likely that for dogs with this condition that any cobalamin deficiency is secondary to the pancreatic problem. But this scenario may an exception rather than the rule.. and I will be the first to admit that it is not always easy to separate cause from consequence or even just from 'mere' correlation.
  9. Any animal/person who has been ill for a length of time may be slightly anaemic - especially if he has not been eating for a while. However, VitB12 deficiency causes a specific form of anaemia where the red blood cells (RBC) look 'megaloblastic'. These altered cells can be detected by looking down a microscope at a blood film (or these days, RBC counting machines (haemocytometers) give information about the cells that indicate whether the aneamia is 'megaloblastic' in type). This Sounds good. Hope it all goes well. Keep us informed. Good luck to you, your mom and of course to Trooper
  10. Kingfisher.. Personally, I would go with your vet's advice..thinking about it more, I have heard of dogs and sheep treated simultaneously with both steroids and antibiotics...I guess, it just depends on how significant the risk of sepsis from the tooth infection actually is and your (new) vet probably has already weighed this up. Eileen... human IGS is an autosomal recessive condition. The childern usually present before the age of 5. As you say, they usually present with chronic, relapsing pernicious (megaloblastic) anaemia. They also may develop a number of neurological conditions including confusion, dementia and a variety of peripheral effects (peripheral neuropathy, sensory impairment and parasthesia (pins and needles/burning sensations)). (...ETA.... In patients with the adult form of vitB12 deficiency, the neurological effects can occur independent of the anaemia rather than as a consequence of it) I don't know enough about the dog disease to really comment, but from what I have read, dogs with cobalamin deficiency also suffer from lethary, anorexia and failure to gain weight. The failure to absorb cobalamin may be secondary to other GI problems such as Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency..(the Pancreas secretes Intrinsic Factor that is needed by the body in order to absorb cobalamin). So I guess in these situations, it could be considered that the GI problems may be the cause rather than the consequence of the deficiency. (FWIW.. the original paper describing the condition in dogs - He et al. (2003) http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14722725 demonstrated that IGS in the dog maps to a region on dog ch'some 8 that is orthologous to human 14q that contains the AMN gene. (I can only access the abstract, so can't check this paper in detail). However, clicking through the links that you provided in your earlier post indicate that the different companies who do specifically state which gene they analyse (not all the firms state this) say they check for a mutation in CUBN.. I guess that subsequent research showed that this other gene was mutated in the BC form of the disease).
  11. Should have added.. if he had b12 deficiency, there should be alteration in the red blood count (megaloblastic anaemia). From your earlier post, as this seems to be normal, I would think it unlikely that he has a significant B12 problem.
  12. Personally I would go with your vet's advice and see how he progresses on the suggested treatment before pushing for B12 injections. Be aware that clavamox is a relatively broad spectrum antibiotic that should cover the bugs causing his tooth infection. But Prednisone as a steroid that will not only 'treat' any autoantibodies but may also surpress some of his normal immune function. By reducing the inflammatory response, it may also mask any signs of the infection spreading plus it is possible that it could allow a source of infection to get worse. So IMO just double check with your vet about the risk of sepsis from his tooth abscess when he is on the pred and whether it is better to get on top of that before starting the steroids. Jmo Ymmv
  13. In humans, Imerslund-Grasbeck Syndrome is a specific form of juvenile megaloblastic aneamia (megaloblastic anaemia 1) that is caused by Vitamin B12 (cobalamin) deficiency and is often associated with proteinuria (protein in the urine). It was originally described in 1959/1960 in several Finnish families by Grasbeck and in several Norwegian families by Imerslund. Subsequently, it has been found to be associated with mutations in 2 separate genes - CUBN (Finnish type) and AMN (Norwegian type). I think the disease caused by either gene is inherited as an autosomal recessive disorder. For those interested, you can read more about it in OMIM (Online Medelian Inheritance in Man). In humans, there are other forms of Vitamin B12 (cobalamin) deficiency/malabsorption that are not caused by IGS syndrome. However, as Eileen says, it does seem that in the "dog world", different forms of cobalamin deficiency are sometimes being grouped together under the single "IGS" title Apologies to the OP for hijacking the thread.
  14. Your new vet sounds much more on the ball. I would imagine that a long- standing tooth abscess could cause many of Trooper's symptoms as it swelled, self-drained and then reformed yet again. It may even account for many of his generalised symptoms including the joint problems and bloody discharge if if he had additional intermittent sepsis (systemic blood infection) +/- crossreacting autoantibodies that can occur after some bacterial and viral infections. Good luck with getting him sorted..he certainly is in good hands. ETA the autoimmune conditions I was thinking that may occur secondary to an infection could be something like the 'dog equivalent' to human Henoch Schonlëin Purpura (HSP). In human children, this condition is usually 'self limiting' and most get better on their own. I don't know if the same sort of thing is described in dogs, but personally I'd be surprised if there was not something equivalent.
  15. As red russell says, inside flank refers to when the dog needs to flank between sheep and the handler. The outside flank is when the dog flanks behind the handler. Both manoeuvres may be used for example when driving the sheep away from the handler. IME They are taught around the time ( or just before) you start teaching the dog to drive. In general when a dog is flankng, he should move in an arc-like direction and keep the same distance from the sheep during the flank. When a dog flanks, you don't usually want him spiralling inwards nor do you want him moving in a straingt line (known as 'cutting his flank'). In both cases he could push the sheep in the wrong direction as he flanks around the stock. If you want a dog to move out as he flanks (for example to release pressure or to continue to flank wider to gather additional sheep that are further away (perhaps he cannot see the more distant sheep)) you could add an 'out' command to your directional command and say 'come bye out'. ..alternatively, some people alter the way they whistle or say the command....and by drawing it out the dog knows to go wider. Another example of when I use the 'out' command is when If I am working at the pen mouth and want my dog to release pressure by moving away , then I use 'out' without adding a direction. In contrast, If a flock is dispersed and I want my dog to gather only the nearer few to me (for example perhaps one is lame or is lambing, needs help and so she needs catching, but I don't want the rest). Then as my dog is flanking past the first group, I personally use a 'this' or 'here this' command to direct my (experienced) dog to come in on that first group and ignore the rest. ..IMO. This is not something you should do too often with an inexperienced dog, in case he gets into a bad habit of only gathering the first few sheep he sees and ignoring the rest of the flock.
  16. I know it's not a formal peer reviewed science reference, but would your friends accept Dr. Sophia Yin's insights on dog behaviour? http://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/is_my_male_shih_tzu_being_a_s_when_he_potties_in_the_house In this she writes. "So, how do you train your dog that the toilet is outside only and that you want the inside to be potty free? You have to go back to the basics.....Next, when he's inside, he must have no chance to have an accident. That means he's attached to you by leash at all times or in a comfy crate." (My emphasis) Edited so that link works
  17. Every dog is different. It's hard to predict how long your dog will take to mentally mature a bit more. As Gloria says, if you put too much pressure on some immature dogs when they cannot cope with the correction, then they can be soured. So don't feel you need to rush to start training your dog. You have plenty of time. Once your dog is older, she will take to stocktraining better and probably progress faster anyway In the meantime, you can help your dog in several ways. Remember shepherding/sheepdogging is about a partnership between handler and dog. I am guessing from your posts that you have not grown up with stock. If this is the case then you also have a steep learning curve to climb. IMO it really helps to spend time learning about sheep. For example, learn where YOU need to stand, how much space you need to give to sheep in order to keep them calm. Watch the sheep's body language and learn the cues that she gives before she acts (for example a flick of an ear, the way she holds her head). Learn how sheep behave on their own and when they are in a small flock. Watch how the dynamics in a flock can change depending on which sheep are making up the group (sheep are not all the same). If you cannot get an opportunity to help out on a stockfarm, then ask your trainer if you can try moving sheep around the field or getting them into a pen by yourself without a dog. Doing things like this can be a real eye opener. It also helps to consider how you interact with your dog during a training session because applying pressure effectively requires the handler to focus their energy appropriately. A dog will often be more willing to listen to a calm, assertive, authorative person who quietly, yet effectively says "Oi you, listen to me and think about your actions" than to someone who excitedly shouts and wildly waves a rake/stick around - This will be especially true if the dog considers these stick-waving gestures to be an invitation to play. In addition, it is not just the amount of pressure but also about getting the timing right and understanding when you need to release pressure. This is one of the reasons why it helps to be able to read your dog and your stock. If you continue applying pressure when your dog is showing signs of uncertainty or when she is acting appropriately, then you will just confuse her (and this is one reason why she may decide to quit) I fully appreicate that all these things are difficult for a novice to think about especially in a situation where the dog and the sheep are moving swiftly. So it may help if you attend one or more training clinics as a spectator (ie without your dog). Watch how the expert acts and compare this with the students' movements. Observe how the different dog respond to different handlers and garner what advice the expert gives in sorting out the different issues that each partnership has. In the 1st video you posted in this thread watch your dog's actions from 48 secs onwards. This is where she wants to please her handler and is thinking about her actions (tail down, calm keeping a sensible distance and balancing naturally) . Compare this with the 1st 10 seconds of the film (where she is excited, playing and rushing into sheep). .. there are other episodes than the times I mentioned when she is looking good and balanced as well as some points where she is starting to get excited (tail flicks). There is also the episode where is definitely uncertain and indicating that she does not want a confrontation (holding back and sniffing the ground) Don't beat yourself up about her leaving her sheep for a short while. As both Gloria and I have said in earlier posts, she is young and the pressure of the situation briefly got too much for her... your dog has potential. Hope these ideas are some help. Others will no doubt have additional excellent suggestions.
  18. Well,it sounds like you are not really happy with this trainer but all I can only really comment on is what I see in the video.. IMO a lot of early training is much more than just balance and holding the sheep to the handler. A very important aspect is showing the dog what mindset and attitude he/she should have around stock. So when the dog is flying around with his tail in the air, he doesn't have the calm attitude that he really needs to work his stock safely in a stress-free manner (you have to always remember that the most important part of sheepdog work is stock welfare), This is not a criticism about your dog. She is young and sheep are new and exciting for her. But she needs to work out in her own head what is allowable and what is not. Pressure - release techniques can help a dog learn this. So using pressure to push her away from the sheep is the trainer saying 'Act like that and I!ll make it uncomfortable for you,'. But when your dog is acting appropriately, the trainer releases pressure and walks backwards to say 'yes now you are behaving correctly, you can work the stock'. How much pressure is the right amount? Well every dog is different., I personally don't like to push a young dog right off her sheep, but then I don't know how resistant your dog was being prior to the video footage (the dogs barking around the pen would not have helped the situation)..and if a youngster is not listening, then the handler has little choice but to respond and apply more appropriately-timed pressure.. Your dog backing off during the session gave her a short 'breather' to clear her head, When she came back onto her stock, her actions were much more considered. Hesitation at this stage is a sign that she is thinking. She was also working her stock at a bit of distance from them. In the video footage provided, the sheep were still responding to her, so she was not so far off that she was 'out of contact' with them. But your dog's behaviour is an example of why a young dog needs to be sufficiently mentally mature to take the pressure.. He/she also needs time to think and work out what is required. I think that your dog just needs a bit more time to grow up...but to my eyes your dog has potential
  19. Video now seems to working. Your pup is still young and for much of the time she is excited (barking, tail up and chasing) by the sheep and the situation. After she has had some minimal pressure exerted by the trainer, yes she sniffed the ground a bit and briefly backed off... But then she came back with a more 'stable' mindset as indicated by the tail down, calmer movements, not barking. During this calmer period she was naturally flankng at a sensible distance from the stock...those short bits looked nice.. IMO she just needs to develop a more mature mental attitude so that the periods of time when her attitude is more responsive and more focused become longer.. This is something that should come good as she gets a bit older and as she gets more used to being around stock.. To my mind, your dog definitely has potential, she just needs to mature a bit before any 'serious' training begins. This is because she currently need some appropriately timed pressure exerted on her so that she understands what behaviour is acceptable around stock and what is not. On occasions, the pressure required may make even a keen young dog want to leave the stock for a short period while she considers her actions and thinks about what is required. A good trainer will then invite the dog back (lower the pressure) and encourage her to continue to work her sheep as long as her attitude is appropriate. This is what your trainer did. Oh and at this stage of her trainng I wouldn't mind if a young dog doesn't lie down. JMO.
  20. Just wondering, but Has this regieme been recommended by your vet? The risk of giving repeated short duration treatments with a single drug is that the infectious agent develops resistance to the treatment. I don't l know if this is the case for Panacuir and giardia, but personally I would seek expert advice before doing this. JMO. YMMV
  21. Brilliant. It sound,s really exciting...and a lot of work for both humans and dogs Congratulations. Hope lambing and the subsequent move goes smoothly.
  22. Shetlander (Liz), ^^this ^^is a great post on the different forms of RG combined with sensible suggestions on how manage it. Thanks for putting such a clear description together :)
  23. You've been given good advice here. If 'Welsh Roy' does mean Aled Owen's Roy as Gloria suggests, then you can see the pedigrees here (he has had 2 highly successful trial dogs called Roy. One who won the ISDS International Supreme in 1999 and the other who won it in 2007 . The 2nd Roy also won the World trial in 2008)...http://www.aled-owen-sheepdogs.co.uk/dogs.asp scroll down about half way down the page).
  24. Don't know if this may help you, but with the reactive young dog I'm currently working with ,I find that her pupil diameter is a good indicator of how stressed she is. When her pupils are huge (almost no iris colour observable), I know that she is finding it hard to cope and remove her away from whatever is stressing her (usually my other dogs). If her pupils are appropriate for the light conditions then I let her continue interacting with others. I don't stare at her when checking out her pupil diameter as she may find this intimidating. I just gauge this by sidewards glances at her. I use 'timeout' in a quiet room and gentle massage to "de-stress" her. I also minimise any playtime with objects (balls) that she may obsess over and don't leave these with her when she is in her quiet space. It's a very slow process, but the length of time she can be around other dogs is gradually increasing. However, there are still periods when she is very edgy and her pupils remain dilated despite everything..on these occasions I really try to minimise her interactions to just me (who she trusts). As I write this, she is curled up next to me on the sofa with her head on my lap and she is completely ignoring the other dogs who are also sleeping nearby. ETA this is a huge step forward..just a few weeks ago, she would be growling and panic barking which would then very quickly escalate to teeth bared and lunging to attack the other dogs if they were even in the same room as her...and I know that tomorrow she could easily relapse back to this state...(this is what I mean by 'edgy')..but because her pupils 'blow' before she starts.growling, I can step in and act before she flips.
  • Create New...