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About madrose124

  • Birthday January 24

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    Horses, Dogs, Chickens, Homesteading

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  1. It could be that she is the result of a border/whippet type cross?
  2. Oh, and just saw your update! Good work! My suggestion still stands! Maybe it'll help fine tune the rest
  3. Looks to me like you should try some frisbee or flyball and you need to determine a way to make a walk, her job. Clearly she has no desire for a leisure stroll, but if you can put her to work on a walk you may accomplish much! And if safe to do so, try biking with her. But she strikes me as a flyball dog.
  4. As an owner of a bc, Aussie, and a Rhodesian ridgeback...I can say that there is definitely a difference between protection, aggression, possessiveness, anxiety & being a watch dog. My Aussie (mini), great watch dog. Barks first usually. Acts tough but I imagine would run and bark from an intruder. My bc, is similar. I have seen her be more protective of me on walks towards other dogs. She's choosy, calm dogs she's ok with, barkers on the other hand she rather charge at. Now my ridgeback. He'd easily have an intruder by the jugular. He's not overly protective nervous, on walks etc, but with the situation arrives, he goes in. My other dog got attacked once by a loose dog in a park, he went in and ended that fight real quick. He also jumped in on a friends dog who was jumping all over my son. And once in the dark he came charging at me while holding a trash bag. Good thing he realize it was me. And he nearly ripped down a chain link fence because a coyote was eyeing my chickens from the other side. Now, when not on guard mode, he sleeps all day and is a big dumb softy. My mom calls him scooby do lol. Point being... A guard dog will render an intruder. A watch dog will make alarm but little else. Fortunately watch dogs are good deterrents.
  5. Sounds like things are going well. As I'm sure you know, make sure your recall is 100% proof before you off leash around distractions. Best of luck! The teenage age is harder too I find. Reliability comes with maturity.
  6. So i run a small organic farm, and I have been using herbal dewormers and remedies on my goats specifically. My BC Kelty has had bouts of loose stool and diarrhea irregularly. Last month it took weeks. I finally ordered "GI Soother" from Fir Meadow LLC, and gave it to her (I ordered it for my goat) and mixed with with the all creature herbal dewormA, and litterally that same day is stopped. She started again last week and I gave it to her right away. Stopped it in its tracks. Love the stuff and it comes in the mail SO fast.
  7. She does have good eye & crouch, although she uses it mostly when playing with my aussie LOL. But I hope to take her to some sheep herding lessons soon. I have had issue with her catching chickens, yet she ignores them completely when I am around. She thinks (the free range) that they belong near their pen, so when I have caught her with one, she usually grabs one that squats, but she never hurt one. But sure did get into lots of trouble for it! We had to put up a fence to keep her from doing that when I am not out there with her. But really, she's been great. Even still. She follows me like my shadow, I mentioned it in another thread because she even trips me up with her head between my legs sometimes LOL. She listens at the drop of a hat. So far, she hates car rides. And likes to bark at the barn cat. Or my horse (which she also got no nos for). I would say her level of intensity has gone up, but she sure has a great can do attitude, sometimes shutting down if she doesn't know what Im asking of her. she's also really protective of me. She's pretty much border collie through and through. She listens SO well. Super smart. Brave and driven, yet kind of sensitive to the point I have to lower myself to get her to do some things. She just wants to please. The most surprising thing I would say is her energy level. While she can go on forever, she doesn't drive us insane. Maybe because she has enough jobs out here and a play mate to run with, I dont know, but my Aussie defintiely is more high energy than she. My only disappointment is her total lack of any toy drive thus far.
  8. I've had the opposite experience. I have to remember to let mine have supervised opportunities to drag the leash with her around the farm, because she "shuts down" aka lays as close to the ground and she possibly can, the second she felt any tension on the leash. She finally got to the place where she drug it while following behind me, and then now i can usually hold the end of it and convince her to follow me despite her feeling any tension. It's slow going, mostly because I havent worked on it as often as I should. I call her my shadow dog, since she follows my heels so closely i sometimes strip on her head between my ankles LOL. I think a lot of it has to do with personality. I cannot imagine her ever wanting to pull me anywhere. My aussie on the other hand pulls fairly decently when we started training. But I just teach them to stop the moment there is any tension and generally change direction. Each dog has it's own personality and its own "better way" to learn. as far as corrections, i make sure to balance reward markers with negative corrections. My husband is the worst at this, as he still doesn't get how a dog thinks. Dogs need to be rewarded for the correct behavior (even in baby steps) moreso then corrected, but I dont believe in lacking corrections at all...otherwise your dog will quickly walk all over you. There's going to be the proper level and intensity of correction, as always, timing is key. As well as management. As I learned when i got my obedience trainer cert, if your dog is failing more than 80%, then you need to go "back to basics" and ask less, setting up the dog to succeed, so that they truly learn what you are wanting from them and build from there.
  9. No Worries. She's still young and loves to pick up bad habits from my other dogs. My ridgeback is the one who taught her to run the fence line. I had him before I had my farm, and he is true to his breed character and loves to "Bay" large animals per his breeding. He generally ignores the horse but she runs around like a wild mustang when I go to bring her hay. And that's when he would run at the fence. Getting in trouble every time. But, the behavior persists. I guess he can't help his genes. For that reason we fenced in our back yard and he no longer is allowed out when I feed. And of course, Keltie learned that behavior from him. At least SHE responds when I tell her no. Did I mention I'm over puppies? LOL. But now that we have fences and more control of the situation, they've all behaved rather well. I look forward to seeing how she works sheep. I may wait a few more months. She's so sensitive sometimes and not others. I can't really predict how she would behave. Would she sit behind me the whole time not wanting to do anything wrong,or will she go charging around? Borde Collies these days
  10. Good advice. Although I live in an arid climate, last years rainy season was three months long. We're constantly changing things around. A lot of what you do depends on what species you plan to get. I think ideally for me, I'd like to have a central barn location with pens that split out from it in quadrants. That way all animals could come in to the same place at night, same central feed and water area, and easier to lock them up (predator proofing). I can't tell you how many times we've rearranged over and over. I can say this, don't skimp or cheap out on fencing. You'll live to regret it. Horse fence the perimeter at the very least. Welded wire just about last a month.
  11. For the record, I don't "let" my dog work my horse. In this situation my horse had busted past me through the gate (because ironically she's attached to my goats and they were grazing weeds). My dog just happened to be with me while this happened and as I was trying to get the horse turn get back in her pen Keltie stepped up. Of course I understand the danger a horse can do. This is not something I allow to happen or wish to promote, but it happened on accident which led me to believe she might be ready. The rest of her barking at the horse stuff is along the fence line, not in with the horse and I call her off whenever she is caught doing it. If recently switched things around so she no longer has access todo even that. As for my goats, most of them are super easy to work with a dog other than the current herd queen who does occasionally offer a challenge (she head butted at my ridgeback once---he thinks they are dogs, she knows better that he is no goat), but that's only if the dog gets close enough. I have done my darnedest to raise her as a farm dog, around my farm animals without her having any negative experiences. I'm really curious what she would do with sheep. Maybe in a month or so I can get her out to the trainer. For now, I've found the mere presence of my Aussie sends my goats running for their pen. So that helps. Patience is a virtue Ido not have. Thanks for the tips.
  12. Is it possible to correctly train my dog certain cues used to work animals without sheep? I am sure it is, but how? We have a mini farm. I have chickens and ducks, goats and a horse. I have access to a herding instructor with sheep and hour and a half away. I want to get a few lessons there but for now I need to focus on practicality. Here's my situation. I have a rescue bc pup, now 8 months old. She exhibits herding behaviors when chasing or playing with my other dog (stalks, crouch, eye etc). She now has taken to herding my horse into her stall. Now I have been good at letting her be exposed to the farm animals without being in danger or risking them turning on her. She started behavior along the fence, but the other day I had a break out situation with my horse and I was corralling her back in and Keltie (my pup) ran up and barked and very convincingly turned my horse around and put her up. I believe she is from cattle dog stock because of the area she was found....a dirt road in a cattle ranch town (and one very large commercial sheep farm). But just the way she is with my horse leads me to believe she has a preference for larger livestock. Anywho, I really want to teach her to go left or right, come by away etc, because she could help me bring the goats in. As it stands, I have tame goats and ones not yet ready for me to lead them. And babies. I find myself in the situation where I get half my goats in their pen, have to shut the door so they don't run out while I get the others but then face the problem that when I have to open the gate they dart off, and occasionally the others escape go if I opened it. Her presence seems to help---sometimes---but because she follows me at my heels it's also a hindrance because they won't walk past her. I have her sit away, but it's not useful either. I understand goats aren't the best starter flock, but I'm just wondering where to start to get her to follow certain herding commands so I can bring the animals in. Sorry if it's confusing, but here I am, finally with a dog old enough to start some training IMO. The tasks are rather easy. I live on 1.5 acres and my goats don't have horns, and although they are used to my dogs now and not quite as flighty as they were when I got them, they are also not too stubborn with the dogs. Before when I had rams (babydoll Southdown), those guys were much harder to persuade.
  13. Well I guess all the same could be said for a failed herding dog as a failed agility dog, depending on how competitive you plan to be. getting a puppy in general is a gamble, and you can at best increase your odds by choosing proper breeding. most BCs I know dont get tested on real stock till 8 months. Agility doesnt really amp up until the dog is 1 (with puppy foundation)...time is the only way to tell either way.
  14. At the risk of repeating what everyone else has said, and the probability that the OP isn't reading this... I'll try to put it simply. "True" Border Collies are bred to herd sheep. They do not have a breed or appearance "standard" for this reason. Health & workability are the ONLY factors considered in a quality breeding pair, all extras, color, ears, coat, size, are very VERY secondary. That is what a border collie is intended to be. A herder. Now, even from the best "workingest" dog pairing, you will still have a few pups in the litter with either a lack of herding drive, or a personality type making them ineffective at herding. Those dogs should be placed in pet/sport homes. The AKC is an organization that has put SO much emphasis on appearance of ANY dog breed in the show ring, that in order for these dogs to win they are going to be bred to look a certain way, and over time the "look trends" change, and inevitably the dogs get fluffier poof coats and bigger bones---all the while NO CARE for working ability is considered. At which point, true border collie people, will not see these dogs as ACTUAL border collies--only look alikes. The AKC already ruined the Australian Shepherd as a working dog, many of us here do not want to see the same happen to the border collie at the hands of AKC. Therefore, few here will recommend buying any border collie bred from AKC stock...as with AKC these dogs will have been bred for appearance for generations, all the while losing the working ability that made them what they were. So the real question is, do you want a real border collie (and even a puppy from a border collie breeder that would be best suited for sport--as I mentioned, there will always be some from a litter that are not suited for livestock work) or do you want a dog that kind of has the colors of what most think a border collie looks like?
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