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dogrsqr

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  1. Having a new puppy and a second female I've been thinking about dynamics a lot. Previously had 2 females that did not get along and don't want to end up with the same. It is never ok for one dog to take the others food. Ours also eat in their crates. I do allow the adult dog Abbey to reprimand the puppy Shay when it is appropriate, but recently I've noticed a little bit of resource guarding of me so need to remember what I was told years ago .... Get up and walk away. I do not belong to either dog. Gina
  2. I tried training a running DW. No dice. I retrained a stop and really like it. Gives me a chance to get into position for the following sequence. I have a running AF, but it would be nice to sometimes have a stop for the same reason. I might with my pup try to get a stop all four on the ground at the bottom of the AF. Gina Pizzo Abbey and Baby Shay
  3. Ok so I'm going to ask this question and hope for more answers than go to trials, observe and talk to people. I have not found herding people to be very inclusive to strangers. I have been involved in agility and flyball since 1995. I have had 4 rescued Border Collies and a rescued BC mix. I have fostered many dogs thru our Humane Society and with a BC rescue group. I have worked at herding training with two of our BCs. My current BC is a great dog, willing to do anything. She's doing ok with herding even though we only get to train once a week from Mid March thru Mid October. She does not have the confidence with her sheep that she needs to get very far in trialing. At this point we are only aspiring to AKC B course. I am not a fan of AKC for several reasons, but that's what we can be successful at. She was adopted at 6 1/2 months and missed the socialization that would have possibly made her more confident. I am looking for a good breeder of working dogs that will be willing to place a pup with a person that will keep a dog busy and trained, doesn't have her own stock but will continue on with herding lessons and go as far as the dog and I can go. I always start a dog with basic obedience and we train 2-4 times per week. We also let the dogs be dogs and go hiking and swimming and just play dog games. We are located outside St. Paul, MN. If anyone has any suggestions for a good working dog breeder I'd appreciate it. We are willing to travel for the right dog and are not in a hurry. I have never purchased a dog from a breeder so any insight into what to ask is welcome as well. Thanks, Gina Pizzo
  4. There is a very small subset of people in NADAC who work the bonus line/box type of distance. Most use much more modest distance handling. I have a very pressure sensitive Border Collie; we work big distance, but not that big. I'm sure I could get her to run bonus line distance with some work, but there is no place here to practice that type of distance and I'm not really that interested in doing it. I do get some more international style course work in one of my classes which I always handle at a distance but it requires précised timing which doesn't always work with an old handler and a fast dog. Gina and Abbey
  5. Interesting discussion. I trial pretty much exclusively in NADAC. I've done a few USDAA trials with my present dog, more with past dogs when there weren't many trials of any flavor around. I've gone to train at a few ASCA and UKI trials. I also like NADAC because the dogs can flat out run. Lots of extension, not a lot of teeny, tiny steps between obstacles. The courses are not technical except for the discriminations, but the speed of the dog is what makes the challenge. If you can run next to your dog they won't be very difficult, but then you might need to work on speed. For some reason people seem to think speed is something your dog either has or doesn't, but I find that early on in a dogs training if you work only technical sequences you'll teach collection and lose speed. NADAC tends to build speed, confidence, and distance in dogs because the courses are more obvious to the dog. I travel to run in NADAC rather than do all the local trials. I could stay home and run AKC almost every weekend, but having started with a mixed breed dog when they weren't even allowed on the site, I have no desire to trial there. We also have a lot of CPE and a fair amount of USDAA. Most of these trials are indoors on matting and that doesn't interest me either. I choose outdoor trials and horse arenas over matting over concrete. I haven't run CPE but watched a few trials. It does seem to me that the obstacle spacing is a little close for my dog. Most people who like CPE like the games, the shorter (than NADAC) courses, and the more generous standard course times. After going back to USDAA with my younger dog I found all the barking and tugging to be an issue for me. That and the fact that someone's Terv ran 30 feet to try to get my dog who was on leash and just came out of her crate. The handler was unable to get their dog to come to them at the end of their run to get leashed and instead left the ring tugging with their dog. I was NOT happy. Gina and Abbey
  6. We have these discussions a lot in BC rescue. To me a working home is a home that has stock and the dog will get to work the stock. I would tend to think that it would be more often like daily or at least several times a week. I consider sporting homes to be homes like mine that a dog would get to do activities like obedience, agility, flyball, nose work etc., and maybe some "recreational" herding. Than we have companion homes that need a dog that will be happy with daily walks, some fetch and not much else. My dog competes in agility and flyball and we go to weekly herding lessons (1/2 hour) from mid March thru mid October with the chance for a couple of lessons a month the rest of the year depending on weather and our weekend schedule. We are at some sort of training 3-4 times a week and non-herding competitions maybe 25 weekends out of the year. I would not consider myself a working home even though we get to "play" with sheep on a weekly basis for half of the year. We aren't doing real work/chores we're just working on skills. It makes Abbey happy and I enjoy seeing her do something that she was bred to do. Gina and Abbey
  7. I currently compete in flyball and agility and train herding with my Border Collie. Is flyall as mentally stimulating as agility or herding? .... no. Does my dog love it just as much? ....yes. Would I only play flyball? Heck no. Do I enjoy this mindless acitivity once in a while? Yes! Is it repetive? Yes, but teaching a good turn and working on perfect passing are not autopilot activities. Some of our previous dogs also competed at both. I had an eight year hiatus from flyball and thought I'd never go back, but tried it with Abbey and she had a blast. I do enjoy competing at multiple sports because it gives me an opportunity to be around a different group of people. As for noise our crating area is in a different part of the building from the running area which significantly reduces the noise exposure. I find some agility trials to be overall just as noisy when dogs have to be crated close to the ring. My dog barks while we're waiting for our turn, but once we get out into the racing lane she's all business and focus. Our team is also not a super competitive, serious group either which helps. Some people think that flyball is the most horrendous activity you could do. I think we all have our own opinions and that's just what they are. Our dogs see a sports medicine vet chiropractor on a regular basis to make sure we're ok for all of our activities. Gina
  8. That would be 17.8 mph. And that includes the time to turn off the box.
  9. Personally I would not pay much attention to what pitbull trainers do. I've seen them do some pretty stupid things. If my BC had a problem with speed and/or stamina I would first rule out anything physical, including doing blood work. If that didn't uncover anything I would consider mental stress. Does the dog understand what it's being asked to do?, does it enjoy what we are asking it to do?, are we putting too much pressure on the dog? are we over training, over trialing etc. Is the dog the proper weight? being fed nutritious food? I agree with all of what the last poster said. I don't think we need to do weight training with our BCs they are not bred for that, but conditioning is important. All dogs should have some opportunities to run in extension.
  10. So where did the "sport dog" people get their BCs to start breeding? Did they not come from working dog breeders? Maybe those breeders should have required the dogs to be spayed/neutered if they were selling them to non-working homes? I would personally agree that "wired" dogs are not so much bred as they are created by training. As a sport person I do not think my dog needs to bark and tug in order to be a good agility dog. I would rather she focus her attention and energy on working. Gina and Abbey
  11. We had two BCs that were afraid of storm sewer inlets. Made it really hard to get places sometimes as they would refuse to go towards the hole in the ground.
  12. Is it possible that he just doesn't like how it feels to have his body hit the ground on the end of the teeter? I know that this is the most popular method for saving time on a course, but maybe try having him pause at the tip point until the teeter hits the ground and then release him to the bottom. If you can work thru it and get him some confidence you might be able to go back to running to the end of the board.
  13. I personally don't think of giving the dog information that it is doing something that is not acceptable is necessarily a correction. Using a word or phrase like wrong or oh-oh is just giving them information to use in making future choices. Letting the dog know that their choice is incorrect is just as useful as letting them know their choice is correct. When I went to an Ian Dunbar seminar a few years ago, he said he thought that people had taken positive training to an extreme and had forgotten that dogs need information about what they're doing that's unacceptable as much as they need information about what they're doing that's acceptable. He was not advocating being harsh; just letting them know thru simple unemotional words.
  14. Kong Air Squeaker tennis ball Clutch Ball (Soft flex) Bumi Tug Toy (West Paw designs)
  15. I use a down stay. I think it's easier for most dogs to maintain a down stay, but each dog is an individual. I would go with the position the dog picks. I've always found that a stand was harder for my dogs to understand than either a sit or down.
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