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Everything posted by CptJack

  1. Also! While it seems I mostly am doing things right/or at least not super wrong, I SUPER appreciate the feedback and you taking the time to give it! I learned a lot just from you pointing out what she was doing when and am very grateful for you taking the time to tell me!
  2. I find it super neat that you pegged the 'being silly and running around' because that video was actually taken first/immediately upon getting there and out of the van, the others were taken later (by about 2 minutes, once she'd run off some crazy from the trip). I reversed because that was the longer and shakier clip and I figured it was less interesting to people. So you super nailed that. Truthfully, this is a friends property and machine, and we go out maybe once a year. So it doesn't matter if she does it 'wrong' (ie: doesn't chase the lure) and the only real chasing in her life is the occasional ball toss. That said, it's neat to watch her play the game on her terms (and she does know it's a game, she's very polite in sitting in front of the thing while the bag is attached and Friend settles down to pick up the remote). I doubt I'll ever have the opportunity to try any stock work with her, much less seriously, though I have recently gotten a lead on someone not terribly far from me I would like to make contact with. If only just to watch them work THEIR dogs.
  3. Warning for a VERY shaky camera. The one point where she ran for some length of time (and she's not following the lure at all, LOL)
  4. You're welcome! It has been my experience that if you can convince a BC that something is a game, and that they can 'win' that game (get reinforcement) they will go all in. It's a fantastic feature once you can tap into it
  5. In fairness, my dogs will call off running wild animals because sometimes I send them right back to chase the running wild animal. Premack is fun.
  6. Also, ever time he 'gets away with' not doing what you say, you're burning the command. At this point I would probably switch to a new word that basically means 'come get a cookie' and use a long line to prevent him EVER not coming to that for a while, and get some 'money in the reward history bank' before you start making withdrawals.
  7. I mean that's not even biddability, that's intelligence. Would YOU come willingly to something you know is unpleasant? All you're doing with that is teaching him that if he comes to you bad stuff might happen. Why would he come for that? He's not dumb - which is why you got a border collie, right? Well, this is the dark side, as it were. If you know you're going to need to do those things, just put him on a long line and do it. Or find a way to make it pay for him. At the very least know he's playing the odds, so you have to make it worthwhile for him to come WAY more often than coming to you results in something he hates. I call my dogs probably a hundred times for fun stuff (check in, have a cookie, go back. Or 'come here so we can go on a walk/play ball, get some love) for every single time I recall them for something like taking a bath. Stuff like getting leashed? I always praise, leash, and pair with cookie. Does this mean my dogs RESPECT ME? No. Also they 're dogs, and respects a human concept but we'll ignore that. Does it mean my dogs are reliable off leash in the middle of the woods and will call off chasing rabbits or deer? Yup. From 8 weeks onward, without a hint of 'teenage rebellion' other people talk about, at any point. Even if I don't have cookies or fun stuff on me? STill yes, because odds tell them that 99% of the time coming means a fun thing so that once (or twice or whatever) doesn't make them immediately wary and allow them to associate coming to me with bad stuff.
  8. You need to train a crate behavior at other times. I mean the biting issues are a big issue and I acknowledge that (and have little to no advice on that), but you need to teach her 'crate' and make it a good thing, not exclusively use it to predict 'you are in trouble and being put up/fun will end'. Ask her to crate for two seconds when there is no biting, and toss a treat in and let her come out immediately. Crate her with a kong for a nap when she's being GOOD. Ask her to do crates in it. If this crate is too posioned get a new one of whatever kind you don't have (solid, wire, whatever). But you do need to be able to do the leash and crate stuff without her freaking out and that means she needs to not associate it with fun ending/stopping/bad things. .
  9. I do want to say that, in my experience, while BC should be able to do more than is mentioned here.... They're not, in my experience, dogs who have a ton of endurance unless specifically conditioned for it. Go hard, go fast, short burst stuff, yes, but most I know, unless used regularly for work and built up to longer times have more 'go fast!' for like 5-10 minutes and then take a break and recover. They also, universally, tend to take 'there is nothing being asked of me so I'm going to sleep' as an approach on life. Again, absolutely this sounds extreme. But 'go go go' and physical stamina to match is not the default setting on most/many.
  10. And, yes, neutering can cause an energy level decline. If you think about it, you're basically removing a chemical from their body that athletes use to enhance performance (testosterone).
  11. Is it possible that he has some form of Border Collie Collapse and is self-regulating to avoid that collapse? This is, unfortunately, a DX of exclusion and usually comes with gait changes, but they can be subtle and some dogs (Molly included) learn to self-regulate by putting themselves down to rest/stopping before things get bad. Mental alteration is almost always part of that, though (seeming 'out of it' a little, less responsive, etc).
  12. Oh, we have the same stuff - the puppies aren't experienced - we just get a little more confident that it will pass. My youngest as a puppy was a hellion. No off switch and thanks to ACD in the mix bit like a rabid shark.
  13. She definitely doesn't have any trouble with her jump height, or in clearing it without OVER clearing it. She's a very, very efficient jumper and it's very cool - to me, anyway, after seeing so many pictures of dogs jumping WAY above the bar and sometimes even nearly clearing the jump standards and thinking that was desirable.
  14. My BC (or mostly BC, who knows) is now just about to turn 5. Her routine goes something like this: Wakes up about 6:30 when spouse gets up, goes outside and pees, comes back and comes back to bed with me. 8:00, I get up and feed the dogs, so she gets breakfast. She follows me downstairs and goes up on the love seat and goes back to sleep while I settle in to work. Noon, once I get up and start moving around she and the other BC mix (who is just 2) go outside with me where we do a bit of training with the ball as a reward for about half an hour. 12:30 - back inside, she goes back onto the loveseat or dog bed and goes back to sleep. 5:00 I wrap up work, they get fed dinner and I start cooking dinner. After dinner (6?) they either go for an off leash run through the woods or swimming. 7 or so I start pulling dogs out for individual training. obedience, agility, stupid tricks, disc, whatever we're working on, and each one gets a solid 30-45 minutes working on their stuff. Then they're back to lazing around until bed at about 10. Now, sometimes there's a class, seminar, trial, or competition going on that involves a lot of waiting and a little running, but mostly that's our daily routine. One stint of hard off leash exercise in the day, a couple of points of training new stuff. What there definitely is not is a lot of frantic activity, all the time. And I do realize my girl is now middle aged, but this has been the routine - really! - since she was abo ut 6 months old for her. the ACD X BC took longer to chill out and stop yelling about his desire ot do things all the time, but he still got there. Crazy amounts of activity is not the magic bullet. Working their brains IS.
  15. Yep. Molly can play run for a really, really long time if temperature's aren't broiling. She's good for about half an hour of agility training at a time. It's way more exhausting for her. Think of it like this: Is walking for an hour or taking an algebra test for an hour more likely to leave you in need of a nap? For most people, barring being WAY out of shape? It's the math test.
  16. She was a little intense that first jump.
  17. There is no way I am going to acknowledge 'My dog runs up to your dog and is friendly and that means that kicking at it is wrong and bad and you are threatening my dog'. If their dog is on a line and not allowed to approach, there's no risk of it getting hurt. If it isn't, IT DOES NOT MATTER IF IT IS FRIENDLY, I AM GOING TO DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT. There was nothing to get defensive ABOUT if their dog was staying on a line and I acknowledged as much, but "BUT FRIENDLY!" does not change a damned thing. And does not make acting like I'm going to go over to where their dog is and kick the crap out of it for fun and games any more reasonable as a response.
  18. ...If my dog is with me, on a 4 foot leash, and standing beside me then. The dog coming up to me is, in fact, likely getting into my dogs face. My dog who can retreat no further than 4-6 feet and knows it and is therefore more restricted by it. That's a problem. Presumably yelling/screaming/flailing at the dog would work, but I'm not going to wait UNTIL there is a fight to prevent there being one! And, yes, I am resenting acting like I'm going to go out and attack a dog for existing. No. I'm going to do what it takes to keep a dog from getting close enough to my dog to have an issue. Maybe she'd be fine, I don' tknow, but I do know I'm not risking it and don't want to be approached at ALL by someone's OUT OF CONTROL DOG. The nice, sweet, young dog doesn't deserve it. You are right though in that OP already said they'd be using a long line. Their 'my dog's perfectly friendly tho!' defense just doesn't hold water with me. Perfectly friendly doesn't remove 'out of control' if they're allowed to approach.
  19. And let me go ahead and point out that my dog regularly competes in dog sports/activities in the presence of other dogs and has dog friends she's perfectly happy to interact with (or ignore). She isn't a loose canon. She is a dog who doesn't want another dog charging up to her - particularly with a toy and when she cannot retreat - an d getting in her face and will behave accordingly. Well behaved and under control dogs? Not an issue.
  20. Um, yeah. I have no desire to hurt anyone's dog or see anyone's dog hurt, but the reality is MY dog, who is under control, on a leash, and unable to retreat, will behave in a defensive manner if approached by an off leash dog. It does not matter how friendly that dog is. My dog is unable to flee (fight or flight), which leaves fight. Which means that me kicking out at - or even kicking! - your dog is protecting your dog from my dog. My dog that is on a leash. Under control. That your dog should not damn well approach. If I see your dog coming, I'm going to ask you to recall your dog. My dog will stand there while this is going on, possibly putting herself behind me or between my legs. If you either do not or cannot recall your dog and your dog continues to approach you have shown me that your dog is now out of your control and the ONLY MEANS I HAVE to prevent your dog from being bitten by my perfectly under control dog, who is on a leash and was minding her own business when approached, is yelling, screaming, throwing something, and finally kicking. And if I don't do those things? My dog WILL handle it and she will handle it by putting holes in your dog and I will be -legally as well as ethically, completely without liability. This is not even unusual dog behavior. Lots of very friendly dogs HATE being approached in that manner and will behave defensively and who can blame them!?!. Doesn't matter if your dog is friendly. My dog does not want your dog in her face/space and my dog, due to being leashed, cannot retreat. That means growling, snapping, and ultimately biting or potential for bite The solution to avoiding ALL of these is very easy and they are ALL , legally and ethically, on you: Keep your dog within your control. If your dog will not recall, use a leash. PLEASE. I *don't* want to see your dog hurt, that's the whole point!
  21. ^This. You HAVE to realize that not everyone can read dogs, likes dogs, or feels safe around dogs. Even with that aside, PEOPLE WHO DO NOT KNOW YOUR DOG do not know how aggressive he may or may not be, or under what circumstances. Does he resource guard his ball? T hey don't know! There are dogs who will drop a ball and then snap whwen you go to take it because they're conflicted. Will he jump up on them? They don't know! What if it's a small child, a frail elderly person, or someone with an immune condition or undergoing chemo or otherwise made more fragile than you can immediately tell! Is he dog aggressive after an initial greeting (or to other males, neutered males, intact males, puppies)? Is he fully vaccinated? They *don''t know* and they don't want to interact with your dog. If you cannot keep your dog to yourself they are WELL Within their rights to, when the dog blows a recall to protect themselves, their children and their dogs and since they do not know your dog, he IS a potential threat who has the capacity to do harm. And on one very specific scenario? If your dog approached me when I was out with Molly and would not recall AND brought a toy into the mix? I 'd stomp toward him, yell and if he continued to approach probably kick him. Because if he doesn't leave? Molly's going to make him go - with teeth. And given that she would be on leash and minding her business until your dog charged in, your dog would be the one in trouble legally (as well as because he'd have holes in his body from my dog - or bruises because I kicked the crap out of him to save him from puncture wounds).
  22. The dog's ribs should feel something like making a a fist with one hand and running the fingers of the other over your knuckles. You can get more padding than that and be okay, but as long as you have at least that and not so much that you have to apply much pressure to the dog to feel the ribs, you're ok. Lots of people want their dogs WAY too fat. If you can't see the shape of the rib cage and feel ALL the ribs, the dog's overweight. And yes, absolutely, the bag recommendations are way, way high for 99% of dogs. Remember, they're in the business of selling food!
  23. we screwed up the easy part of the course (and she missed a jump on the way out) but HOLY SNOT I am proud of this.
  24. Foxes and wolves truly do not/cannot interbreed. They're MUCH more different than any other known cases of hybridization and science at the moment at least says 'no' there. They're about as close to canines, appearances aside, as they are to a skunk.
  25. Using your words here re: Long line If he's getting the positive reinforcement of other dogs and people there is nothing you can do to to train him because YOUR positive reinforcement won't mean anything. You HAVE to prevent him self-rewarding to be able to have a reliable recall. How good are you going to feel when you can't call him off someone really, really afraid and they really freak out and pepperspray or kick him hard for approaching or chasing them or their kid? Using a long line. Work the recall. Exercise him in other ways or other times or within the 50-100 feet allowed by the long line until he earns the freedom to go without it,. Teach him the positive reinforcement comes from YOU, not the environment/people land dogs in it. Before the people in it use some heavy duty punishment to do it for you, he becomes traumatized and less friendly and you're up a creek because your dog CHASED someone who was truly afraid and that's not at all ok.
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