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Posts posted by CptJack

  1. 23 minutes ago, GentleLake said:

    Intact males and females is almost never an issue unless females are in heat anyway. That doesn't often happen more than twice a year and responsible owners leave their females at home most of the time during their heats so again, not much of an issue. And ppl should be aware enough of their intact males' behaviors to know whether they're going to be a problem and to manage them accordingly.

    It's not rocket science. Like many people, I used to live in a multi-dog household with both intact bitches and dogs . . . and never had an unplanned mating either in or away from my home. :rolleyes:


    There are places intact and inseason females are allowed to play that  I play - Like UpDog.   Honestly it's just another distraction and he learned to work through pretty fast.


    "Not rocket science" really sums it up.  (Neither have  I had an accidental breeding - and  I've had intact dogs for a long time,  though I DO spay my females because NADAC doesn't allow dogs in season to play and  I don't want to lose my trial time! LOL)

  2. Kiran's 2.5 and intact.   I see no reason to neuter him.    We, in the US, have been very conditioned to believe that  if an animal in intact it's going to breed.    WE've  also been conditioned to believe  that dogs  can't handle  being in season or around dogs in season without becoming  an uncontrollable maniac.    Neither of those are really true.   Kiran fairly regularly competes and trains around intact bitches,  and while he might be a little more sniffy sometimes, that's about the extent of it.   He's not alone.  Intact is more  common in the sports community and as a result dogs learn to deal.      The same is almost  certainly true in countries where s/n  isn't  the norm - and, in fact and point of  interest,  have almost no  over population problem or unplanned  litters, ever. Norway's a good example.

  3. CARO does rally.

    NASCAW I think is the nonAKC nosework

    Ultimate Air Dogs dock diving.

    UpDog Disc IS (newly) AKC affiliatated but you can JUST register through UpDog (for 3.00) and have AKC get zero of your money anda they'll track your accomplishments.


    NADAC obviously is one of those agility organizations.



  4. 19 minutes ago, SS Cressa said:

    I’m not discounting crazy border collies but some of it is just certain sports people think to get a good competitive dog the border collie must be crazy... and some don’t train for behavior outside the sport they compete in... it isn’t “just” the breeding but also what the owners find acceptable.


    Yes, and also sometimes people see  the  dogs ramped up at the sporting event of their  choice and decide  that the  dog is like that ALL. THE. TIME.   Molly's a  dog throw pillow if nothing's going on,  but if she's at agility she can sometimes get over the top.  There's a point I care, but prior to hitting  that threshold I don't mind some nuttiness.   But anyone trying to guess her temperament based just on being  around agility would assume  she was a nightmare in the house. 


    She's not.  

  5. Hm.


    I wouldn't  try to speak about OMD or  international  courses,  and won't dispute  that they're not the same (though I will say that first example in this very old video is something  I've seen used as a skill example in OMD videos for tandem turns).



    Switches are  taught as  a lead changes, initially, but it's also taught as 'turn away from  me' at  that  stage.  - dog on left, walk forward cookie in right  hand  goes  on  dog's nose, flip  out away from you in about turn.  In  use - they're  used  a LOT on the  flat but also used pretty freaking  diversely from barely any turn as  a regular old rear cross on   the flat, to the common lead  change flip out at 90 degrees to 180  degree entries  to obstacles  to wraps  (switch-tight) where the dog takes the obstacle, lands and flips  around/away to wrap the  upright (hoops   mostly, or barrels,  sometimes  jumps,  I think.).

    NADAC  courses  have  changed pretty massively over the  past few  years.  Open flowing  courses are no longer super  common.  They're  still not the same as many organizations (and for me thank god),  and still  with lots  of flow, but   OPEN and flowing mostly  only in the  special skills/secondary  classes like touch  and go,  (and very,  very occasionally  jumpers - never regular),  they're what I  sometimes see  and get happy about,   not what  I  expect.   

  6.  A  NADAC switch is   essentially a OMD tandem turn.    Or,rather, a tandem turn is a kind of switch, I  guess.


    I've used them on AKC style courses, but I definitely don't disagree international courses are  a whole 'nother ball game!    OneI know nothing about  and play  very little.  Independent  backsides sound  super  fun though!  Hard! But fun!

  7. 7 hours ago, alligande said:

    You are really starting to get some nice distance, the one handling move from NADAC that I have always liked is the switch (change lead) and you have it down.  

    Thanks! The dog is happy  about the distance! 

    I really like switches.  They confounded me for a while.   At this point they're my favorite thing, even with slower dogs who are closer. They just seem to  create a really nice, clean,   turn and side change. 

  8. 10 hours ago, GentleLake said:

    Another way to up the treat currency is to switch out high value treats every once in a while. Even steak can become ho-hum after a while.

    A trainer I used to work with would always switch things up and manage to one up us every week. One week she'd have a treat bag full of thawed frozen meatballs and would have all the dogs' attention. The next week we'd all gone out and gotten meatballs, but she'd stopped at McDonald's and bought a few orders of Chicken McNuggets. All of a sudden the meatballs were pretty meh and she had every dog's undivided attention again. Another week it was a can of spray cheese. Rinse and repeat. There are lots and lots of things you can do to up your treat game. Be creative and don't let anything lose its value before trying something new and exciting.



    And *don't*  discount the  novelty factor being  motivating  in and of itself.   I have  had  other people's dogs going absolutely APE  over plain old  milkbones and that horrible  semi-soft dog food  that  comes  in a box of individual plastic bags.   Both of those are  horribly  unhealthy, but they're shelf-stable and I keep  them in the van for when I run out of, or forget, my more typical ones.   They're completely novel  to other people's dogs and fairly so to mine.  There are  absolutely points when I've  gotten more  enthusiasm for  those than chicken or steak or liver or chicken hearts and gizzards.



  9. Just now, Lawgirl said:

    Ah, I wondered why you were working on it so hard.  Me, it would be so I don't have to run so much:lol:.

    But if Molly prefers the distance work, then that is where you need to go. And if it is easier on you (on course, not in training) so much the better!

    Are you using verbals, or is it mainly the arm signals/body movement?  Because I suspect some combination will be needed for the more cluttered courses.


    There is also an added benefit  in not  having to bust butt and run :P

    We're  doing  both.  My body language needs  cleaned up  a  lot. Sadly what you're  seeing there IS  improved.  Hopefully it will  continue  to do so.  Verbals are in play too, though,  in  a handful or so of commands.   We'll  see where  it goes/how  it goes. I don't need anymore  distance  than I  have with her now - that's  elite chances stuff, which  she excels at - I  just need to be better at using it.   I've  got a seminar coming up in November that's  distance focused.   Hopefully  it helps.

  10. Just now, Lawgirl said:

    That is excellent, I love the distance you are getting.



    Meeeee, too.

    More importantly, so does Molly.

    She has a space bubble  and would prefer  I stay out of it.  She also prefers me with distance because  I have some time to think and cue her.  It's  cutting down both our frustration levels by a TON.   Learning how to use that distance on more 'cluttered' courses  is a work in progress  and going to be worth it.

  11. 5 hours ago, Hooper2 said:

    I'm not a vet, and I exercise my young dogs more than a lot of people do.  So I would say that 30 min of fetch IN A DAY is not excessive.  But 30 minutes of CONTINUOUS fetch probably is not advisable. Five minutes of fetch followed by ten minutes of walking, and the five more minutes of fetch then more walking, then maybe a couple more minutes of fetch would probably be better.  There are a lot more twisting and high impact stops and turns in a round of fetch than we realize. Short bursts of intense activity and longer rounds of low impact activity will give you the benefits of exercise with much less stress on young joints

    Yes, this.

    Even with my FIVE YEAR OLD,  our games of fetch are on and off, and honestly mostly training with fetch as a reward.  Do some heeling, BALL BRING IT BACK.  Stay.  Release. MORE FETCH.  Do a trick or three. MORE FETCH.   Etc. 


    Not just... chasing the ball until they drop.

    Some disc games look vaguely like 'go till you drop' for a whole 60 seconds at a time ;p  but  my dogs are all fully grown adults.

  12. I am the person who originally suggested border collie collapsed based on a lack of physical stamina.  An overaroused dog who gets naughty after being aroused, even getting mentally tired of it isn't BCC.  BCC is a neurological thing with physical symptoms.  It CAN be made worse by arousal, but I was SOLEY addressing his lack of physical stamina, nothing else.

    Your description here makes me agree with your vet.

    Probably this is either a dog with behavioral problems, temperament problems, or is just a normal BC in a home that's definition of normal doesn't encompass BC behavior.  Which often, honestly, includes being a pain in the ass who gets into trouble a lot and needs a lot of management. 

  13. On 9/7/2019 at 10:11 AM, gcv-border said:

    Dang. Yes. Love shopping for dogs, yarn, hardware/lumber. Clothes - yech, only when everything is in rags.



    I have a pretty impressive yarn collection, but I will definitely take the help with the puppy shopping when it's time! a

    (With you on the hate of clothes shopping, too)

  14. 10 hours ago, gcv-border said:

    Last year, purchased female pup for $800 from Washington state. Both parents: ABCA registered, ran in Open USBCHA trials, hips checked, genetic testing.

    5 years ago, purchased male pup from Massachusetts. Both parents: hips checked, some genetic testing. Dam - Open ABCA trial dog. Sire: ISDS registered. International champion. Puppies were BAER tested.

    I need to make you help me find my next dog :P



  15. Erm, that is an insanely a high amount of money for those puppies, regardless of breed.


    Actually working dogs bred and producing puppies I might expect 800 local to me.  What amounts to purebred by BYB puppies?  Well, I know people selling them for 1800 but I sure ain't buying :P If I want to spend that I want health testing and PARENTS to be proven in SOMETHING (not just assuming BC here, but any breed).

  16. Walk him for variable distances and variable locations and not always to the park.

    He needs to stop anticipating going to the park. 


    the barking you should probably actually tell him it's okay, reassure him, and then if it continues crate him - and cover the crate - as many times on loop as it takes.

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