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About Anniko

  • Birthday 11/09/1993

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  1. Glad to here we're not the only ones with this problem ...We've been trying to stop Rikki from chasing both cars and birds from the time we first got her. Since the streets are not so busy here (suburb) we were semi-successful with getting her to stop chasing cars. It's not perfect, and if she gets away she might still start to chase but has, on multiple occasions, actually stopped mid-chase and returned. (Most of these incidences happened when we let her off-leash on what we thought was an unused dirt road) However, after months of trying, I cannot get her to stop chasing birds. She won't lunge at them anymore when she has a leash on, but she is still obviously interested and will chase off leash. It doesn't help that some members of my family used to think it's ok to let her out in the backyard to chase the birds because it's "fun" for her. It wasn't fun when I had to chase her for over a mile to catch her the first time she ran off chasing birds. I'll be moving out (with Rikki, of course) soon so this won't be part of the problem anymore. I'm just starting agility with her and I don't know what I'm going to do if she starts running away to chase birds on the agility field. I'm seriously considering an electric collar. Is there any other training method for this besides treats (she is not food motivated)? I have tried putting her on a (VERY) long line, going out in to a field, and playing fetch until she goes after a bird. I would then call her and reel her in and put her in a down position. I kept repeating it hoping she would learn that chasing the birds means the game of fetch will end, but as soon as the line comes off she starts chasing again. I don't know how long I have to keep doing this to get results but the bird chasing seems to be a well-ingrained habit by now. Her recall is good coming off other things, but not birds. I read somewhere else that the best way to stop the bird chasing is giving them a 'job' to do in response to seeing the bird. I don't have a clue what that is supposed to be, especially since the birds are everywhere at almost all times.
  2. Sadly, I just left Romania and am back home now. (Good to see my own healthy pup though Yes, the hair loss is localized- her neck is completely hairless and her back has a near-bald spot. She does itch (scratching her ears open for ex), but not continuously. The skin over her whole body is really thick and rough, I don't know if it's like that because of something or just genetics. I think the lack of fur on her neck is from being tethered all her life and pulling against chains (obviously replaced by a collar now). I don't know about her back...it never went away but it didn't get worse either. I put the fly stuff on her back just for good measure but her back wasn't raw or bitten, just hairless. There is actually a very large fenced yard, but the dog is an escape artist (it can open the metal gates, remove all sorts of objects, jump 5 foot fences, dig). They are afraid it will go rooting up other people's fields. The dog is very good about always coming home and I've never seen her dig for entertainment, so honestly they could just let her go every night, but they are completely unwilling to consider it. I got her a long 60ft tether so as long as they don't shorten it, it should be okay. The eye discharge appears every morning and then presumably gets rubbed away during the day, but since flies wouldn't bite during the night, I don't think that's it. I'll ask my grandmother to put a bit of the fly ointment right under her eyes and have her check for the discharge to see if it worked. Thanks for the suggestions!
  3. Another Update...in case anyone's curious what happened to the dog. It was the flies that were biting her ears, and it's gotten better after I found some fly-repelling ointment. My grandmother's not about to take the dog for walks, but she's agreed to keep putting the ointment on her ears and feeding her canned dog food.
  4. Update: For all the problems this dog has, it seems like her tail never stops wagging. Everytime I take her for a walk the tail just keeps going and going. So, I wasn`t able to find someone with ivermectin...and it doesnt help that eveybody here speaks Romanian or Hungarian (which I speak but cant read well) but I did bathe her with the other mange stuff a relative gave me. For all I know it could have ivermectin but just with a different name. I can`t see any visible change in her skin...Maybe the hair on her back is growing back some. Her ears arent getting much better, no matter what I try putting on them she just scratches them open as soon as they start healing. Maybe her eartips were like that from flies as somebody said because I did see flies on them. I`m still looking for some kind of fly repelling oitnemnt, but for now I put some liquid stuf on it that hardens to protect cuts. (Forgot what it`s called because I`m practically forgetting how to speak English from being in Romania so long). It`ll probably keep the flies off as long as she doesn`t scratch it open. Next I`m searching for a pesticide to kill something that translates into ˝chicken lice˝ (don`t know english name) because apperently that`s also a problem here.
  5. Thanks for the suggestions. Whether the owners are willing or not, I'm living here for the next three weeks and I or my mother can pay for whatever she needs (if only we can find it here). Considering that the owner is my grandmother, she'll probably go along with it. I'll try to find ivermectin...maybe in a nearby town. A neighbor (also relative) says they may have something for mange, so I'll see if that works. For how long and how often should I treat the dog? I'm sure the mange stuff has instructions on it, but in case it doesn't some guidelines would be helpful. Whatever she has, it doesn't seem to be spreading. The hair loss on her neck might be partially from being tied out so long without a good collar. If it's food allergy, it should go away now that she's eating the premade raw I brought over. Good news: The dog acts happy and runs like heck even though it's nine years old. Tried to teach it to come, and instead it learned that if it ran away and back while we were walking in the forest it would get food. So it spent the rest of the time running up and down the trail until i ran out of treats.
  6. First of, this dog belongs to a relative who lives in rural Romania. We are visitng them from Texas, and had no idea the dog was like this, so do not blame me for this. Itś not a border collie, but the vet here doesn`t even deal with dogs (just livestock) so I`m hoping the forum can help give ideas for diagnosis/treatement. If it counts for anything, it IS a very smart dog. So, problems: Bleeding and raw ears with discharge. Can´t heal because the dog keeps scratching them. Discharge in eyes, looks light greenish or white Fur loss from back, no fur on neck Thick leathery skin on neck without fur Constant yellow diahrea Cut on back that wont heal Possibly has fleas, I didn`t see any but its always scratching itself Already tried: Neosporin or other antibiotic creams on ears and cut on back Thicker, padded collar. Just now realized it says ˝not for tie out.˝ Not sure if I can get another one here that is for tethered dogs (everything else we brought from the U.S.) Antibiotic cream for human eyes Change in diet (I brought over a box of Rikki`s premade raw). They usually feed the dog a mix of milk, ground corn, and cooked chicken bones. Possibly the worst diet imaginable for a dog. Treats with omega3 fish oil flea collar (that I removed after only a day because I´m afraid it will irritate the dogs skin more) Flea meds that you put onto the dogs neck from a little tube Spraying the dogs area with a flea/parasite killer So, ideas as to what is causing this and how to help?
  7. I'm surprised the vet said nothing about a vaccine when I asked about how to keep her safe from snakes. I had no idea it existed for dogs. Thanks!
  8. At first her problem was just constantly sitting down, and I'm so so very happy that this has gotten better. Now she alternates between pulling and sitting down...but at least we're able to keep moving. I have tried both harnesses, but I guess they produce no reaction in her. We had the trainer adjust the straps to make sure it wasn't too loose.
  9. So I'm being told simultaneously not to expect too much, to put off training and yet to immediately start training leave it and come and tell her to sit in the crate. That's two conflicting pieces of advice.
  10. Fun: Playing, wrestling, or burying things in the backyard for her to dig up, music at her bed-time(I swear she calms down in response to some classical and an Elton John song. I might be imagining it.) What she does right: She responds to learning by playing. I SO wish this were possible with the walking. I can tell her to "run" and she'll run expecting a chase or fetch game. She knows that a "whoosh" sound means lets play tug with this toy, not that shoe she's chewing. She responds to "drop it" knowing that it means I'll play fetch with the toy she dropped. It's great that this is working, and I'm sure I could keep adding other words to make play time more interesting. I can't figure out if I can apply this to the rather unpleasant leash. How I reward: Well, playing is the obvious one. Last time I posted I was told that too much enthusiasm is putting pressure on her so I'm trying to be more neutral about it when she does something like going potty outside. She gets a treat and a "good little puppy." How do you express your pleasure to her? Petting her and tone of voice.
  11. There are a lot of very helpful people on here, but some you seem so quick to judge or blame. I am not PUNISHING or FRUSTRATED with HER. I'm frustrated with the fact that after reading and imitating all the things I THINK I'm supposed to do, it just doesn't work and I don't know where to go from there. Let's see if I can clarify some things. My reaction to submissive urination IS to ignore it and not be overly excited when I come home to greet her or un-crate her. That's all I meant by trying to stop it. That and doing little things I imagine will get her confidence up. I've never done any kind of correction for it and I know not to. I don't know what's so hard to understand about this, but whether I want to or not, I have no choice but to leash train her. I did originally want to do other obedience training with her, because from other sources, I was under the impression that you had to get started as early as possible or she would learn she could ignore me and it would be so much harder to do it later on. Everybody on this board disagrees, and I've shared this opinion with her (former) obedience trainers, and they thought it was irresponsible. It's not fun for anybody if she's spending the walking time gagging. We ALWAYS walk the most direct path possible to a fenced in field or forested area so we can have actual fun time with her and run around. But sometimes we end up having to drive there because she won't walk. When we get there, she perks up and acts normal and happy.
  12. @jdarling I don't feel there is a medical problem. I was told to go to the vet by the BC boards, and I disagreed with it but went. She was never as high-energy as I expected, and there is no longer anything (other than myself mistakenly expecting a hyper puppy sprinting around the house and trying to chew up everything) indicating a health problem. By "telling her off" I meant just an "Ah-ha." Once. At the moment she starts going to the bathroom and not after. Then she gets taken outside to finish going to the bathroom and gets a game of fetch when she does. That's it. I don't know why it produces a strong reaction in her, and I don't like to use it because of this. Blocking the spots by placing objects in them (I have no idea why she doesn't like toy cars, I introduced her to them as a toy she could chase) WORKS. She is not terrified of them by any stretch, she will walk next to them, she just won't go to the bathroom near them for some reason. Obviously, I noticed this by accident. I'm not doing anything but placing the object in the spot when she's not looking. However idiotic this seems, it feels much safer to just let the environment be the thing preventing her from pooing there, not me. And however 'imaginary' that connection may be, even when the piece of pottery blocking a spot in the kitchen was removed, she NEVER went in the kitchen again. She didn't even have anything against that pot. If I can't use the word sulking, I'll say "shutting down." I'm not sure what to call it, but she does it more in connection to the walking than potty-training. I hate to have to expect too much of her, but she NEEDS to learn to walk. I just don't know how to give her exercise her or take her anywhere for new experiences and socialization if she can't walk. You can't tell me its a good idea to keep her inside all day, and I'm starting to realize how dangerous off-leash walking is here. The reason I hate it most is because I don't see how she could possibly enjoy pulling until she gags (even with two different harness types). I'm not frustrated about the potty training AT ALL. She can take however long she needs learning it, because it's not VITAL. I am not surprised at all that she knows she can do chase cars when I'm not there. I was making a point that off-leash is not safe for us. Telling me to put off this kind of training is not realistic. I backed off on the enthusiasm and I've given up on all but the leash and to a lesser extent, the potty training. The only off-leash areas I've got here are fenced in soccer fields and baseball areas. I was pretty set on JUST driving her to the larger forests/parks where nobody could catch us off-leash but the snakes convinced me otherwise. I'm not sure why you're assuming I'm being harsh or punishing her or doing anything but one stern "Ah-ah". I'm trying to avoid causing her "shutting-down" reaction as much as possible. I'm frustrated with the fact that is HAS to be done, and yet I can see that she doesn't like it and I've been told to put off training.
  13. Just a little update on how it's been going with Rikki. Her vet visit was...not very useful to be honest. I described my concerns as clearly as I could, but the vet just looked at me and told me she was fine and there was no need for a fecal or other test. Then he told me a story about his black lab that was also surprisingly low energy all his life, which is not really what I wanted to hear. This is the most highly regarded vet clinic in the area, so I guess that's that. Somebody want to reassure me that lower energy BC's DO exist? Does it get any better as they grow up? She's eating her food and we've given up on some of the training for now, except that she must behave on walks. To my utter frustration, there are leash laws and park supervisors everywhere. Where there are no leash laws, it's just not safe. We've almost gotten her to stop chasing cars and going after other dogs, but she knows that when we're not there to stop her, she can do whatever she wants. And, as of the last two weeks, there's another reason she has to walk on leash. We've met two lovely snakes in the past two weeks, one of them a juvenile copperhead that lunged at her and nearly gave me a heart attack. I'm starting to wonder if it's actually natural for a dog that sees you as 'pack leader' to stay in a heel position and not pull or stop while on leash? We've done all the usually recommended things to have her see us as the 'leaders,' and judging from the fact that she often greats me by rolling onto her back or doing submissive urination (trying to stop this ), we *might* have succeed with that, but its not helping with the leash walking. Any thoughts? I know I might get some backlash for saying this, but I'm getting very frustrated with the fact that I've been trying since the third day we've had her to get leash walking down, and she seems completely opposed to it. She's also learned that potty training means 'sneak off quickly, hide somewhere the humans can't see, poo, and if the catch you to say "Ah-ah," go sulk'. My current potty training technique is to put objects she is afraid of (small toy cars, for ex.) in her 'poo spots'. It's working much better than telling her off At least, it doesn't give her a reason to sulk.
  14. Our Rikki wouldn't even put a paw into water at first, but bribing her with treats and toys worked to some extent. We finally got her to swim by crossing creeks while on walks and waiting for her to follow us. She freaked out a bit at first, but now she seems to have no problem with it. Yesterday she even got into water and swam on her own for the first time. Since we live in Texas and it can be over 100 for a whole month in the summer, she's not going to have much choice about getting into water Since we just got our puppy a little while ago, I'm still new to all this and not really qualified to give advice, but this is just what worked for Rikki.
  15. What you describe is EXACTLY what Rikki does on a leash. We've started driving to forests where there is plenty of space and we can take her off leash. Still, there are leash laws everywhere here, and we only get away with it because nobody can see us in the forest. She never flat-out stops and refuses to move on an off-leash walk. Maybe your dogs just have a hatred of the leash? We didn't receive a clicker in the mail. Honestly, I couldn't see that she was familiar with any commands yet. However, I got a surprise the first time I blew a whistle and she came right to me. While we stopped trying to train her at home, I've been incorporated her commands into playtime with a lot more success. She doesn't respond all the time, but she's getting some of it. My favorite command is "run" which basically means "you can run in front of me but don't herd me" I use it when playing chase with her so that I'm not tripping over her and getting nipped. I didn't train it formally- I just ran alongside a fence so that it was impossible for her to circle me
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